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  3. Had another oddity. Just burned a DVD+R DL that passed Write and Verify. Then, I went to Read the same disc I had just finished Writing and Verifying and the read rate plummeted to 0.01x at the layer change. I powered off the drive, powered it back on, and tried again. The 2nd attempt to Read the disc afterwards succeeded.
  4. Had another oddity. Just burned a DVD+R DL that passed Write and Verify. Then, I went to Read the same disc I had just finished Writing and Verifying and the read rate plummeted to 0.01x at the layer change. I powered off the drive, powered it back on, and tried again. The 2nd attempt to Read the disc afterwards succeeded.
  5. I do believe that first failed read was a fluke due to a behavioral "bug" either in the drive, Windows, or the OWC enclosure the drive is in. Unless you use the Eject context menu item to eject discs in File Explorer, the metadata of disc contents is NOT updated. The downside of this is if you don't do it, when you copy the contents of one disc in File Explorer without Ejecting, File Explorer is trying to copy nonexistent data from subsequent discs inserted into the drive.
  6. So what I was saying does not really apply to you or you to me since yours are from a random manufacturer as they might only overburn a minute or so over the usual 80min limit, but it's hard to say for sure without testing as we only know you can't do '82:26:49'. because I imagine with the 'CMC Magnetics Corp' how far one can actually overburn will probably vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. so in that case only way I can know the rough cut off point of mine in particular is to waste a CD-R and say try burning 82minute30sec or more just to see if it works or not as if not as when playing I can get a rough idea of where the cut off point is. but thanks for the info as I did not expect to get a reply given the age of this post and you only had one post until now
  7. I do believe that first failed read was a fluke due to a behavioral "bug" either in the drive, Windows, or the OWC enclosure the drive is in. Unless you use the Eject context menu item to eject discs in File Explorer, the metadata of disc contents is NOT updated. The downside of this is if you don't do it, when you copy the contents of one disc in File Explorer without Ejecting, File Explorer is trying to copy nonexistent data from subsequent discs inserted into the drive.
  8. Interesting how that drive apparently supports DVD-RW DL reading and writing since DVD-RW DL was NEVER manufactured.
  9. If the Super DVD is to be a viable format, it has to make a quantum leap in write speed. However, it is based on 3-D memory and not optical storage. 3-D memory may be super fast at writes. Without it in consumer hands, we'll never know. And it's not even in enterprise hands yet as it's only just a recently announced technology. However, I think your math is off. If it takes 20 minutes to write 25 GB, 1 petabyte is 125 TB. 125 TB is 125,000 GB. (Well, let's just conveniently ignore the 1024 factor. ) So, 125,000 divided by 25 GB is 5,000 20 minute writes. That's 100,000 minutes / 60 minutes in an hour / 24 hours in a day is 69.4 days.
  10. 1 petabyte / (25 gigabytes) = 40 000 *20 min. = 800000 /60= 13333.3333333 hrs /24= 555 days
  11. Based on 20 minutes to write 25GB... about 2 years?
  12. I don't know the brand. They were CD-R's I got from a thrift store with no branding on them, however Imgburn reported the manufacturer as "Manufacturer: CMC Magnetics Corp." They came in a stack of 100 and are white, with no markings whatsoever.
  13. One thing I noticed in your screenshots. I see the text CMC MAG, which means you're using CMC Magnetics discs, which are the worst quality out there. Over 50% of the problems we see on this board are caused by CMC Magnetics media and when people switch from them to the high quality media, their problems usually go away. Try to find Verbatim DataLife Plus DVD-RW. NOT the Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores. Those will be CMC. You can generally only find the DataLife Plus stuff in online stores.
  14. And probably wrong path in Share It should be D:\
  15. Other known problem is Windows doesn't see Volume label at default level. ImgBurn too. Problem with label. Windows 10 can do that with special mode go to adm mode. Disk is already inside (inserted)
  16. CONF: Windows 10. i3 Core 3.6 GHz, 16 GB RAM, SSD 240 GB, second SSD 240 GB I have the same problem with at least 3 programs with CD writing. I/O problem. Recently I have switched off >>PowerConfig on hiberfil.sys -h (About 6 GB, I have read that is possible). But that was mistake. Windows does not start after few days. I had to restore the hardware to the FIRST setup and the computer BOOTED. Then I have restore hiberfil.sys to ON. And almost all OK now. Still some problems with ACPI on second SSD 240 GB. Sometimes it logged out. Then must be restarted on HotPlug USB3.0. But all OK. DVD problem is under Windows 10 doesn't recording. Windows Explorator : WRITE files, directories, ISO >OFF BurnAWare : I have recorded 1x copy >>then WRITE >OFF ImgBurn : I have run 1x TEST mode > OK >then >OFF ImgBurn has given such errors: >>> PICS Windows 10 blocks every new programs which only knows after 1x WRITING. All attempts are logged and stored in temporary files. I have read about SPTI Microsoft. It is hard to re-install. It has work many times. I have recorded MANY-MANY DVD-Rs. https://github.com/Microsoft/Windows-driver-samples/blob/main/storage/tools/spti/src/spti.c https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/samples/microsoft/windows-driver-samples/scsi-pass-through-interface-tool/
  17. My guess is I won't get a reply from this user given the age of the post. but I am curious as to whats the specific brand those CD-R's? ; because if they are Verbatim I am reasonably confident you can go to at least 82:14:66 (82min15sec) and have a successful overburn and music will play without the clicking issue you experienced at the end of the standard music CD-R as I noticed in the past when I overburn too far on other random CD-R's they react the same, at least in some of my CD players if I recall correctly. but the Verbatim (CMC Magnetics Corp) 80min CD-R I have are easily the furthest I overburned successfully as I would guesstimate on any random brand of CD-R's nowadays you can probably get at least 30sec to maybe a minute or so over the 80min mark, but much beyond that your rolling-the-dice and it could easily fail. so when I got 2min15sec over successfully I was a little surprised since prior to that happening I figured 1min15sec to 1min30sec was pushing it really hard on any random CD-R brand. but if yours is Verbatim brand that probably means I am very close to the failure point (from my best guess without knowing the exact cut off point) as 82:14:66 works but your 82:26:49 fails, which probably means the overburn failure point is somewhere between 2min15sec to 2min26sec over the usual 80min normal limit. it's possible I could try pushing over the 2min15sec limit to maybe 2min20sec at some point in the future but I only burn standard Audio CD's occasionally and getting a CD-R to very close to say 2min20sec over the 80min limit might not always occur as I mainly use overburning so if I go a little over the 80min limit I don't have to remove any songs. who knows, if I did not mind wasting a CD-R I could say try burning 2min30sec over the usual 80min limit (so about 82min30sec), and assuming it fails, I could probably put it into a CD player and watch the time on the last song and see at what seconds left in that song it fails and from there I should be able to get a very close estimate as to the true limit of it by subtracting the time difference of when it failed to where it should have finished and then be slightly conservative from there. so for example... say the song playing failed at the 82min23sec mark (as the CD player starts the clicking and gets out of whack), which if it was 82min30sec that means it would have failed with about 7 seconds to go on the last song before it stopped normally, which that probably means I would have to have it so it's even less than that for the CD-R to close etc from a rough guess so the CD player does not do the clicking issue and will stop like is normally expected in a normally functioning CD-R. p.s. I never tried the truncate option though since in my case ill always either overburn (like if it's a bit past 80min) or make sure it will fit within the usual 80min limit by removing song(s).
  18. Guess you're right. I'm emulating Sillent Hill rn and it works just fine, aside from a couple stutters here and there. As you can probably tell, english is definitely not my first language, so i apologize for any grammatical errors. Thank you for your assistance, have a wonderful evening.
  19. I would say so. PS1 games were on CD where layer breaks weren't a concern. However, I can't recall seeing .MDS ever associated with a PS 1 game CD image. Of course, I'm just going by ImgBurn, which I can't remember that it used MDS in its file set, but maybe it did.
  20. Hi there! Dumb question, but: As far as i know, .mds files contain the "whereabouts" of the layerbreak. I'm emulating a couple PS1 games on PCSXR. So, i just wanted to know if the .mds is considered useless in this very specific case.
  21. I think at one time, the bypass trick was even easier. You just entered in no account name and password and repeated it several times in a row. Each time, you'd be told to enter something, but after a handful of attempts, Windows setup would go to setting up a Local Account. Microsoft quickly removed that impediment, of course.
  22. There are other methods to but that one seems to be the easiest/quickest. but looking online a moment ago I see... https://www.windowscentral.com/how-set-windows-11-without-microsoft-account ; 'Method 1' is what I used months ago. but there 'Method 2' is pretty much same example I used but they just typed in 'admin' instead of the 'no at thankyou dot com' stuff I used. but you can see the pictures there on what it looks like as that's basically what it looked like when I did it. so I am starting to think if you can pretty much type anything there besides a real account and it will error out and allow local account creation given they used 'admin'.
  23. Thanks for that Microsoft account workaround! I knew it existed, but I couldn't recall what it was. My setup is okay as it was a Windows 10 that I created back when local accounts were possible and upgraded to Windows 11. But, on my next new PC, I wanted to create a local account, but couldn't remember how to do it.
  24. Sorry for the late reply as I just noticed your post here a week later. anyways, I took a quick look online and I think I found the Reddit post you mentioned which is about 5 months ago. when I did my HWID stuff it was late October 2023. so less than 5 months ago when I did the HWID activation. but for kicks I installed Windows 10 in a fresh QEMU/KVM VM a moment ago. then checked activation status, which is not activated as expected, then I tried that HWID method and... it worked ; you can clearly see it's activated... 'Activation Windows is activated with a digital license'. before that it was in red saying it was not activated etc. but just to make sure the HWID activation method also still works on Win11, I tried Windows 11 on a fresh VM a moment ago and checked activation status and said not activated. then I ran the HWID method and it shows 'Windows is activated with a digital license'. just to do one last test to confirm it lasts... I completely deleted the VM's virtual hard drive and created one fresh, but used the same UUID when it was activated a moment ago on the previous VM's virtual hard drive, and... it still worked as you install Win11, skip over the activation part when it asks, then once you reach the desktop I checked activation status and it's activated with no further action needed on my end. so in short... that HWID still works on Win10/11. TIP: to dodge Microsoft's 'forced' Microsoft account junk just type in 'no at thankyou dot com' (with 'at' being '@' and 'dot' being '.') and then enter any random password (it does not matter what it is and you don't even need to remember it) and it will error shortly after that and allow a local account instead (which you then create with your own password like usual which you want to remember) as I saw that on another site and heard it worked but I never tried that until now and it worked exactly as they said.
  25. I changed to the other usb drive that I had on my desktop and it burned the DVD fast and successfully. Thank you for the suggestion.
  26. It's hard to know which error you're specifically talking about as the log displays multiple different errors from different failed burns. However, it points out a few possible issues. You're using the MCC media, so you're using the high quality stuff. Not junk media, so we can rule that out. The thing that immediately leaps out is the combination of semaphore timeout errors and the drive's listed USB interface of USB 1.1. USB 1.1 is ancient and super slow. You could be getting semaphore timeouts because the drive is not reading/writing fast enough. If you're going to use USB BD writers, you need USB 3.0 to avoid drop outs of data. However, semaphore timeout errors can also be a conflict between the USB bridge in your burner and the USB controller on your motherboard. So, what can you do? 1.) If you want to keep using that same drive, try connecting it on a USB 3.x port. 2.) Try a different drive, however, there's no guarantee X drive will work properly with the USB controller on your motherboard. 3.) Replace the USB controller on your mobo. However, there's no guarantee the next one will be any better and it's often times just cheaper to replace the mobo. Which isn't, of course, a cheap option to begin with. If you're going to go that route, you're better off buying an entirely new PC. Again, though, there's no guarantee a different PC's mobo won't have the same issue.
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