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I/O Errors with different media- Asus optical drive Win 10 X64

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Hi, I am new to this forum and require some assistance please as I don't know what to do anymore. I have replaced my BD-R drive 4 times, ranging from a Pioneer 208 to and LG (twice) and now to an Asus BW-16D1HT. I have tried different media including TDK and a newly purchased 25pk Verbatim 6X BD-R discs and am struggling to get a disc burnt. I am using Windows 10 X64 and the only success I had recently was yesterday when I burnt a TDK BD-RW disc. I have tried different sata ports, replaced motherboard to  a Gigabyte that supports Windows 10 and its always trial and error. I use the last build of Imgburn and most times I get this clicking noise of the drive trying to recognise the disc. The log looks like this this evening (Pasted below):

 

I don't know what to do anymore to have some success buring discs. Is this a question of Windows failing or my drive? i only bought it a month ago. Any help is greatly appreciated please. I realise this might not be Imgburn issue but you guys have the experience to assist me please. I bought what I read was best in regards to Media...Verbatin 6X printable discs. The TDK I used had a Mid code of Ritek so I tried a different brand and am stuck. Reading discs can also be tricky at times. i tried different sata cables and am tired of all this uncertainty and am looking for some stability in regards to being able to burn media> here's the log:.

Many thnaks in advance

 

I 21:56:36 ImgBurn Version 2.5.8.0 started!
I 21:56:36 Microsoft Windows 8 Professional x64 Edition (6.2, Build 9200)
I 21:56:36 Total Physical Memory: 16,743,080 KiB  -  Available: 14,708,748 KiB
I 21:56:36 Initialising SPTI...
I 21:56:36 Searching for SCSI / ATAPI devices...
I 21:56:37 -> Drive 1 - Info: ASUS BW-16D1HT 3.00 (F:) (SATA)
I 21:56:37 Found 1 BD-RE XL!
I 21:57:42 Operation Started!
I 21:57:42 Source File: E:\Blu Ray\Don Quixote.iso
I 21:57:42 Source File Sectors: 8,529,120 (MODE1/2048)
I 21:57:42 Source File Size: 17,467,637,760 bytes
I 21:57:42 Source File Volume Identifier: Untitled Project
I 21:57:42 Source File Volume Set Identifier: 12345678        BDROM
I 21:57:42 Source File Application Identifier: BD Authoring
I 21:57:42 Source File Implementation Identifier: Developer
I 21:57:42 Source File File System(s): UDF (2.50)
I 21:57:42 Destination Device: [2:0:0] ASUS BW-16D1HT 3.00 (F:) (SATA)
I 21:57:42 Destination Media Type: BD-R (Disc ID: CMCMAG-BA5-000)
I 21:57:42 Destination Media Supported Write Speeds: 4x, 6x, 8x, 10x, 12x
I 21:57:42 Destination Media Sectors: 12,219,392
I 21:57:42 Write Mode: BD
I 21:57:42 Write Type: DAO
I 21:57:42 Write Speed: MAX
I 21:57:42 Hardware Defect Management Active: No
I 21:57:42 BD-R Verify Not Required: Yes
I 21:57:42 Link Size: Auto
I 21:57:42 Lock Volume: Yes
I 21:57:42 Test Mode: No
I 21:57:42 OPC: No
I 21:57:42 BURN-Proof: Enabled
I 21:57:42 Write Speed Successfully Set! - Effective: 53,952 KB/s (12x)
I 21:57:53 Filling Buffer... (80 MiB)
I 21:57:54 Writing LeadIn...
W 21:58:15 Failed to Write Sectors 0 - 31 - Reason: Not Ready To Ready Change - Medium May Have Changed
W 21:58:15 Retrying (1 of 20)...
W 21:58:20 Retry Failed - Reason: The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error.
W 21:58:20 Retrying (2 of 20)...
W 21:58:21 Retry Failed - Reason: Power On, Reset, or Bus Device Reset Occurred
W 21:58:21 Retrying (3 of 20)...
W 21:58:43 Retry Failed - Reason: Not Ready To Ready Change - Medium May Have Changed
W 21:58:43 Retrying (4 of 20)...
W 21:58:58 Retry Failed - Reason: The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error.
W 21:58:58 Retrying (5 of 20)...
W 21:58:59 Retry Failed - Reason: Power On, Reset, or Bus Device Reset Occurred
W 21:58:59 Retrying (6 of 20)...
W 21:59:21 Retry Failed - Reason: Not Ready To Ready Change - Medium May Have Changed
W 21:59:21 Retrying (7 of 20)...
W 21:59:23 Retry Failed - Reason: The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error.
W 21:59:23 Retrying (8 of 20)...
W 21:59:23 Retry Failed - Reason: Power On, Reset, or Bus Device Reset Occurred
W 21:59:23 Retrying (9 of 20)...
W 21:59:44 Retry Failed - Reason: Not Ready To Ready Change - Medium May Have Changed
W 21:59:44 Retrying (10 of 20)...
W 21:59:55 Retry Failed - Reason: The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error.
W 21:59:55 Retrying (11 of 20)...
W 21:59:55 Retry Failed - Reason: Power On, Reset, or Bus Device Reset Occurred
W 21:59:55 Retrying (12 of 20)...
W 22:00:17 Retry Failed - Reason: Not Ready To Ready Change - Medium May Have Changed
W 22:00:17 Retrying (13 of 20)...
W 22:00:18 Retry Failed - Reason: The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error.
W 22:00:18 Retrying (14 of 20)...
W 22:00:19 Retry Failed - Reason: Power On, Reset, or Bus Device Reset Occurred
W 22:00:19 Retrying (15 of 20)...
W 22:00:40 Retry Failed - Reason: Not Ready To Ready Change - Medium May Have Changed
W 22:00:40 Retrying (16 of 20)...
W 22:00:44 Retry Failed - Reason: The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error.
W 22:00:44 Retrying (17 of 20)...
W 22:00:45 Retry Failed - Reason: Power On, Reset, or Bus Device Reset Occurred
W 22:00:45 Retrying (18 of 20)...
W 22:01:06 Retry Failed - Reason: Not Ready To Ready Change - Medium May Have Changed
W 22:01:06 Retrying (19 of 20)...
W 22:01:09 Retry Failed - Reason: The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error.
W 22:01:09 Retrying (20 of 20)...
W 22:01:10 Retry Failed - Reason: Power On, Reset, or Bus Device Reset Occurred
E 22:07:09 Failed to Write Sectors 0 - 31 - Reason: Not Ready To Ready Change - Medium May Have Changed
I 22:07:09 Synchronising Cache...
W 22:07:09 Synchronise Cache Failed! - Reason: Not Ready To Ready Change - Medium May Have Changed
E 22:07:12 Synchronise Cache Failed! - Reason: Not Ready To Ready Change - Medium May Have Changed
W 22:07:13 User opted to skip the 'Close Track/Session/Disc' functions.
E 22:07:13 Failed to Write Image!
E 22:07:13 Operation Failed! - Duration: 00:09:31
I 22:07:13 Average Write Rate: N/A - Maximum Write Rate: N/A
 

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PS:

This is the last disc I burnst last week on a TDK BD-R. Failed today however using same disc types so went out to get some verbatim. The drive is 1 month old just a s a reminder! What's going on?

 

here's the log of the burnt TDK disc when it seemed all to work but just briefly:

ASUS BW-16D1HT 3.00 (SATA)
Current Profile: BD-ROM
 
Disc Information:
Status: Complete
State of Last Session: Complete
Erasable: No
Sessions: 1
Sectors: 11,760,064
Size: 24,084,611,072 bytes
Time: 2613:22:64 (MM:SS:FF)
MID: RITEK-BR3-000
Supported Read Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x, 10x, 12x
Current Read Speed: 2x - 6x
 
File System Information:
Sectors: 11,760,064
Size: 24,084,611,072 bytes
Time: 2613:22:64 (MM:SS:FF)
 
TOC Information:
Session 1... (LBA: 0)
-> Track 01  (Mode 1, LBA: 0 - 11760063)
-> LeadOut  (LBA: 11760064)
 
Track Information:
Session 1...
-> Track 01 (LTSA: 0, LTS: 11760064, LRA: 11760063)
 
Disc Definition Structure:
Certified: No
Scanned: No
Manufacturers Name: HLDS BD-DRIVE
Additional ID: HLDS-JB8VERA
Serial Number: 9KGLP54818
 
BD Disc Information:
Disc ID: RITEK-BR3-000
Disc Type: BD-R
Disc Size: 120 mm
Disc Class: 0
Disc Version: 1
Number of Layers: 1
Layer Type: Writable
DVD Layer Present: No
CD Layer Present: No
Channel Bit Length: 74.50 nm (25 GB Per Layer)
Push-Pull Polarity: Positive
Recorded Mark Polarity: HTL
BCA Present: Yes
Maximum Transfer Rate: Not Specified
First PAA of Data Zone: 131,072
Last PAA of Data Zone: 1,658,494

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Try the Verbatims.  CMC makes a lot of junk recordable DVD and CD's.  Ritek is hit or miss when it comes to their recordable DVD's.  Some drives tolerate them, some don't.

 

 

I'm surprised you got success with BD-RE on that Asus drive.  I tried 2 different copies of that drive and each destroyed rewritable media.  It rendered my 8x Ritek DVD+RW unusable and destroyed a Verbatim BD-RE DL it wrote to.  It wrote to it a few times but eventually killed it.  I returned my 2nd test of that drive because I find it to be trash at writing rewritable media.

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Thanks for your response. This is puzzling me as the verbatim discs I bought are showing up as CMC-MAG? What can I trust here and how can I be sure that I can purchase a particular recommended MID coded disc? Also it seems that my drive is not being praised here. 2 wrongs? Do I attempt to get refunded on both discs and drives? What drive do you recommend I buy please? Any advice on how to try and get the latest drivers for chipset etc just to try everything I guess?

I have a gigabyte motherboard from the ga-970a family I believe.

 

Thanks

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Well, I cannot say about the UK, which is where you appear to live.  I live in the USA.  It seems that where you live, you'll get different Disc ID's from a manufacturer in one country versus another.  For instance, the BD-R's I get are made by Verbatim with VERBATIM Disc ID's.  Verbatims in the UK may be CMC MAG.  Unless you bought these BD-R's in a brick and mortar store.  Most brick and mortar store Verbatim media is CMC MAG junk.  However, here is the States, Office Depot sells BD-R that are the VERBATIM kind.  I know Verbatim farms out their BD-RE SL's to CMC, but I didn't know they were also farming out BD-R to CMC.  For instance, these are the one I get that I've rarely had issues with that weren't drive related:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00471HK0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

Unfortunately, the issue of which BD drive to get is not clear cut.  You basically have 4 choices: LG, Pioneer, Asus, and Plextor.  Plextor only sells slims models and slims cause more troubles than they're worth. 

 

 

The LG internal model has 3 issues.  1.) they don't write properly to the second layer of Verbatim inkjet printable BD-RE DL.  They write to the same Disc ID as Verbatim branded BD-RE DL, but not the inkjet printable.  Unfortunately, this will only be fixed by a firmware update, and LG has not updated the firmware to their BD model in 2 years.  2.) LG's aren't very good readers.  3.) writing to BD-RE DL's as giant floppies is half as slow as the Pioneer and Asus USB models I have.  Plus, reading back the data from them usually fails in the LG but passes on things like the Pioneer.  However, other than these 3 issues, there seems to be little issues with the LG model.

 

 

Asus made a great full size USB model I have, so I expected a lot from their internal BD burner, the one you have.  I was highly disappointed with what I got.  Unfortunately, you can't get the USB model new anymore.

 

 

Pionner used to be great, but their quality control has gone down the crapper.  The latest firmware update to their internal drives, released in May, borks Ritek 8x DVD+RW.  The previous firmware revisions were fine with them, but Verifies always fail on them with the latest.  Then there's the eject issue.  After about 7 to 9 months, the drives will have eject issues.  I've read reviews were eject simply stops working at all!  :o  My experience has been the button press simply fails the first time but works the second time.  Same for an eject command sent to the drive.  Then there's what really turned me off to these drives.  I recently got one of the XL Pioneer models, the 4th one I've had in 2 years.  It failed to write to BD-R out of the box!  :angry:  Now, it may simply have been a bad one I got, because the other 3 burned the Verbatims fine.  Except for the one I was replacing, which stopped writing to BD-R after 8 months.  :rolleyes:  So, I think Pioneer quality control might have turned to :horse:

 

 

So, I've learned you need TWO drives!  >:p   I have an LG for all my needs except writing to Verbatim inkjet BD-RE DL or writing to BD-RE as giant floppies and my Pioneer XL model for reading data and for writing to Verbatim inkjet BD-RE DL and BD-RE as giant floppies.

 

 

Unfortunately, that's the nature of the beast.  The optical media market is dying, and no one wants to support it anymore because it's not as profitable as it used to be.  Coupled with the fact that companies don't give a damn about their product, only their profit, you're not going to get decent product.  Everything's farmed out to China because they make everything cheap.  :greedy:

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Gosh that's quite a reply and am just as lost as this afternoon I decided to return the asus drive for a refund and as a faulty unit! I tried everything in the book and still it refused to burn anything! I plugged in my other drive with is a DVD burner and worked straight away. That's an LG. However I do have to mention that twice I had to return an LG BD-R internal burner as it kept failing and those were bought after having originally bought a Pioneer 208 model.

The discs you bought are exactly the same as mine that I have just bought. Mine came from a reputable chain shop that sells electronics in the UK called Maplin so I believe I bought these from a proper shop. It's just do disappointing that one can't trust anything anymore in regards to quality products as as you said they are cheaply manufactured in China!

I shall keep my new verbatim discs as I believe they are not at fault in this case and am hoping that I get a refund for my drive or a replacement to check things out. I was thinking of going for the Pioneer 209 but it seems you are not too keen on these either? Plextor I never had before. Are there some made by Lacie or Samsung perhaps?

 

Any further thoughts are much appreciated but I doubt I shall go for an LG again. The pioneer did suffer from the eject button issue you mentioned. It seems it's pot luck to what will work well or not but am very sure that my drive just failed so prematurely after barely 2 months and when I connected back my LG DVD burner it burnt a cd straight away. One thing I hate is all the clicking noises these drives make when they struggle to read media! They tend to do this noise straight from start up of my computer.

 

Thanks again for your help.

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It's not the same at all. Not even remotely. The color packaging is slightly different. Dbminter has the good ones, you have LTH type ones which is clearly stated on the packaging. LTH was abandoned years ago and never really took off in the first place. Only a limited number of drives support the organic dye (should be goldish for you on the underside) where the good standard ones use a purple inorganic dye. What you ordered was blank disc leftover stock. LTH was quickly abandoned due to lousy burn results, very limited drive support and being just plain bad.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P with Tapatalk.

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Oh gosh I have not seen the images properly on my phone. Sounds like a cake of 25 discs are off to Maplin for a full refund. Indeed you're right in that the colour of the dye is golden rather than the darker colour you described. The TDK rites discs are a purple colour but still struggled recently to get a disc burnt on the Asus drive so it went back for a refund as it's clearly faulty. I shall search for the good version of the verbatim, hopefully without an issue in the uk. Should they have a code on the packaging like mine seem to have LTH on them?

 

Cheers

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Ps: I bought the ones that are printable as I wish to be able to print on the discs. The ones from the US link are not printable sadly. Do you know of any that are good ones and printable at the same time?

Thanks

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Guys ignore what I attached earlier and what I said as I got totally confused and described the colour of th due on a cd rather than the Blu-ray Discs! Just got home to check what I actually bought and they are what you see in the image attached. Apologies for confusion but clearly the Maplin website does not show the product I bought. Phew at least it seems that the discs I bought are proper and they are purple colour underneath and not gold. These are keepers right?

Thanks again

post-55867-0-72769100-1482361559_thumb.jpg

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I have some inkjet printable BD-R from Verbatim that worked fine in the Pioneer XL I have.  I've not tested them, I don't think, on the LG.  These are the ones I got that work in the Pioneer BD-209/2209: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004477BQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

Pioneer used to be high quality, IMO.  I still have my first Pioneer XL and after 2 years, it still burns fine.  Just the eject button issue made me replace it.  Then I got a 3rd Pioneer.  The 2nd Pioneer I got as a reader is still going.  The 3rd Pioneer I got as a burner needed replacing after like 7 months because it stopped writing to BD-R.  Then the 4th Pioneer I got I returned because out of the box it didn't write properly to the same BD-R's the first and 2nd Pioneer XL's of the same model still burned to.

 

 

Yes, if you're using LTH, Low To High, abandon those.  They're DVD dye lines converted to BD production.  So, they use organic dyes which decay faster than the metal oxide layers of HTL, High To Low, BD-R.  Plus, there were all sorts of compatibility issues with burners and Blu-Ray players.  So, they were quickly abandoned.  They only saved the production companies money because they were cheaper to make.  While some of those savings were passed on to the consumers, the trade off in quality and compatibility wasn't worth it.  People didn't adopt LTH and they thankfully stopped production, as far as I know.

 

 

As for the colors of BD-R that are good, I've never seen purple or gold.  What I'd call the color of good Verbatim BD-R is metallic black.

 

 

Don't know anything about Lacie making any BD drives.

 

 

As for knowing what you'll get by anything on the package, the manufacturers don't put that information on the packaging.  Because they know if you knew what you were actually getting, you wouldn't pay their outrageous prices for things like CMC junk.  The only way you're going to know what you're getting is by reading reviews on online stores.  I've left all kinds of reviews on Amazon.com telling people what Disc ID is on media so they will know what they can and shouldn't spend their money on.

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Cheers for all this info. I tried to take a picture of the verbatim discs I bought and yes they do look blackish. I am hoping that after I sort out the replacement issue with the says I go for a Pioneer again hoping I pick up a good one. The first Pioneer 208 I had did last me 2 years so I guess that's decent for today's standards. I guess I shall hang on to these verbatim discs as they must be the good ones you guys are referring to?

 

Thanks again

post-55867-0-97462900-1482372992_thumb.jpg

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Because of the reflective surface, it's hard to get a really good image of the bottom of media.  For instance, that picture looks more like the bottom on a Playstation 1 game CD with its black surface.  However, it is close to what I see on my BD-R.

 

 

Yeah, Pioneer initially impressed me by not really needing replacing after a year except for the eject button issue.  I usually have to replace drives after 9 month, but it's been 2 years now and my first Pioneer is still going.  If only my last Pioneer hadn't failed right out of the box.

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I got a closer look on my discs with a magnifying glass and the number printed at the back of the disc (backwards) reads: CMBR6DV5.3 2-110216 008. My discs are the printable ones and I guess the number would be different. Indeed they look black on the bottom side. I have a feeling these should be OK but again will only find out when I get a replacement drive. Perhaps someone has some experiences with these and could update us.

 

Regarding the Pioneer drives are there just one type of 209? Sometimes the letters are different at the end (BDK, EBK). Should I still aim for the 209 or the 208 if it's available, being perhaps older? Just a thought.

 

Cheers

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The EBK model supports BDXL discs and the DBK doesn't.

 

Depending on price difference, I'd go for (and did go for) the EBK.

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I've never heard of an EBK model.  Is it older?  Or is it E for External?  I'm only familiar with the BDR-2209 which supports XL and M-Disc and the BDR-209DBK.  Is the EBK a 208 model?

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No, it's just the way they're sold in this neck of the woods :)

 

The EBK shows up as the BDR-209M in the device identifier string and the DBK shows up as the BDR-209D.

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I never understood things like that.  For instance, in America, we had G.I. Joe.  When it was imported to Europe, it became Action Force.  Then, after a while, it was G.I. Joe: The Action Force.  It finally became G.I. Joe in Europe, too, because Marvel Comics UK didn't want to spend on the budget to edit the comics to say Action Force everywhere it said G.I. Joe.

 

 

And I believe Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles became Teenage Mutant Hero Turtles because of the violent connotation of the word ninja.  Plus the banning of things like nunchuks in England.  Which always made me wonder if the character of Michaelangelo was simply edited out of every fight scene if he was using his signature weapon.

 

 

And then there's the game Final Fantasy.  I believe it became Mystic Quest in Europe.  Which begs the question, what was Final Fantasy: Mystic Quest called in Europe?  Mystic Quest: Mystic Quest?  =))

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Will the Pioneers work well with Windows 10? The reason I ended up buying the Asus was simply because it mentions windows 10 in the specs. The Pioneer and LG don't mention anything about Windows 10.

Thanks

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Will the Puoneer work with Windows 10? I had some trouble with my 208 model but probably because it started failing and was a coincidence that it failed when I upgraded from Windows 7? I went for the Asus as it specifically mentions Windows 10 in the specs. LG & Pioneer don't but if you guys are using one with Windows 10 happily I shall get one eventually

Cheers

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Yeah, I was going to say the same thing.  When an optical drive says it works with Windows X, they're just trying to make sure you won't worry that it works with the current version of Windows.  The Pioneer and LG drives were created before Windows 10, so their packaging won't mention that version of Windows.  Online reviews by people who bought it might say it.  Anyway, it won't matter with optical drives.  Some other kinds of hardware, you might have a problem with a particular driver not working with Windows 10 on an older piece of equipment.

 

 

My ASUS, both LG's, and the Pioneer all worked with Windows 10.  Both LG's and the Pioneer also worked with my Windows 8.1 Update 1.

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Brilliant. Many thanks. So the fact that a few failed some months ago was a question of them being duff I guess. I couldn't get them to read anything after weeks! Tried different motherboard that supports windows 10 and reinstalled windows too. Some advice to uninstall the drive and reboot and to alter some stuff in the registry but doubt it makes any difference. Didn't do much to me. Occasionally using a different sata port helped but again it was pot luck I think and only for short time.

 

Would they work better in AHCI mode or ide mode by chance?

Thanks

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