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dr_ml422

TSSTcorp CDDVD SH-S202J SB03 won't read disc

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Hello how's everyone doing? Been a while. I started backing up my dvd collection and everything' was fine until i decided t5o use my 2nd drive which is a Samsung as noted above. Why isn't it reading my brand new Verbatim DVD+R blank which in fact is a Ritek- F16-01. My Pioneer is just fine. I don't think it's because my Sammy is set as slave is it? Thanks. Btw no disc shows up in imgburn besides the RITEK. Even a normal DVD.

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Does anything show up in ImgBurn with this Samsung drive?  Any CD's, audio or otherwise?  Does it recognize blank discs of anything besides DVD+R like CD-R for burning when inserted?

 

If you're dealing with Master and Slave setups, you must have a fairly old model as I don't think they even have jumpers anymore for those settings.  It may just be this drive is too old.

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Posted (edited)

my Pioneer is just as old and it has no problems whatsoever. Nothing showing up is not even reading movie DVD disc or anything like that. You think I can change something in the Bios make them both Masters or something like that?

I think it's a driver situation and yes it has to do with it being just a bit old but not it because it's not functioning. It is considered a ram drive and RAM is basically obsolete. I'm not sure if it ever did work when I put a disc in when I first put it into my system because I didn't try it out you see it shows up on the PC and on imgburn and everything else. it just didn't work. my Pioneer is working just fine though. So I'm just going to buy a brand new DVD writer or two. Thanks though.

Edited by dr_ml422

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What message is displayed in ImgBurn's status bar when you're in Read mode, that Samsung drive is selected and there's a disc (go with a pressed DVD-ROM for now) in it?

 

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I've never heard of a physical RAM drive.  All RAM drives I'm aware of take physical memory allocation in RAM and turn it into a virtual drive that runs much faster than your hard disk.  Do you mean the drive was a DVD-R/RAM drive, like my first DVD burner was?  A Panasonic DVD-R that only wrote to CD-R, DVD-R, and DVD-RAM.

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Posted (edited)

@LIGHTNING UK! Imgburn just recognizes it and tells you the make, model, firmware. It doesn't give any indication of a discs in the drive.

@dbminter Yes though this is a DVD+-R/RAM and it was one of the best back when burning was the thing. Matter of fact got it through either here or at digital-digest.com. Windows 10 opens and closes it via right click and I've used both CDs snd DVD+-R blanks. There's much online about others having similar issues with other burners.

Now that I'm here any suggestions on a Windows 10 compatible DVD+-R, CD-R burner? 

One last thing it goes on and on when anything is put into it before it stops. I could see Windows show hints with a disc icon when it's reading.

Lite-On, Asus, Sony Optiarc if they still make them? Thank you.

https://ccm.net/forum/affich-7925-cd-rom-dvd-drive-won-t-work

Here's the solution after an all nighter and having a never quit gene. It's the one where you go into device manager and manually pick the updated driver it suggests. It's something like CD-ROM.

 

Edited by dr_ml422
Solution!

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It's probably down to the age of the drive.  The whole Master/Slave thing I don't think is even addressed in BIOS anymore because there are no more jumpers on drives for them.  SATA seemed to do away with the need for Master/Slave settings of drives.  Of course, back in the days of PATA, I set everything to Master whenever possible just to avoid headaches.

 

I only use BD burners now, so I don't have any DVD burner recommendations.  However, I'd avoid all 3 of those options.  I don't think Optiarc is even made anymore.  LiteOn's add random pauses into DVD DL VIDEO_TS video that aren't layer breaks.  ASUS is 50/50 with me.  My first BD burner with them was absolutely fantastic.  The 2nd was :horse:  It destroyed rewritable DVD+RW and BD-RE DL.

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I can set it to Master even though it's on the Slave output cable?

So who's the players now regarding a Blu-ray/DVD/CD burner? LG? Thanks.

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I don't remember the Master/Slave settings.  It's been too long since I last had to deal with them.

 

You'll want either the LG WH NS60 (NOT the NS40!) or Pioneer's 2209/whatever the Ultra HD BD model is now.  Those are the only 2 suggestions I would recommend.  I'd normally used to always say the Pioneer, but they keep screwing around with the firmware making it not properly write Ritek 8x DVD+RW.  They'd get it right, bork it in a new firmware, I'd tell them the problem, they'd fix it, then add a new bork in a later firmware.  Endless whack-a-mole.  Once I discovered the LG NS60 fixed the issues of the NS40, I've used that drive exclusively over my Pioneer 2209.

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@ dr_ml422,

I don't know if this will help

I'm using Windows 7..

I have a TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-H662A UO00.

It is installed in a USB enclosure & is set to master.

I do have cdrom.sys as one of the drivers in Device manager for this drive.

I also have ElbyCDFL.sys which I believe is installed by Virtual Clone drive.

I also have dvdfab.sys which is installed by Passkey.

The last two may make the difference.

This is what I get from a Verbatim DVD+R but it is a MCC not a Ritek.

This is the ImgBurn read stats from it:

Quote

TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-H662A UO00 (USB)
Current Profile: DVD+R

Disc Information:
Status: Empty
State of Last Session: Empty
Erasable: No
Free Sectors: 2,295,104
Free Space: 4,700,372,992 bytes
Free Time: 510:03:29 (MM:SS:FF)
Next Writable Address: 0
MID: MCC-004-00
Supported Read Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x, 12x, 16x
Current Read Speed: 16x

Physical Format Information (ADIP):
Disc ID: MCC-004-00
Book Type: DVD+R
Part Version: 1
Disc Size: 120 mm
Maximum Read Rate: Not Specified
Number of Layers: 1
Track Path: Parallel Track Path (PTP)
Linear Density: 0.267 um/bit
Track Density: 0.74 um/track
First Physical Sector of Data Area: 196,608
Last Physical Sector of Data Area: 2,491,711
Last Physical Sector in Layer 0: 0

Physical Format Information (Last Recorded):
Disc ID: MCC-004-00
Book Type: DVD-ROM
Part Version: 1
Disc Size: 120 mm
Maximum Read Rate: Not Specified
Number of Layers: 1
Track Path: Parallel Track Path (PTP)
Linear Density: 0.267 um/bit
Track Density: 0.74 um/track
First Physical Sector of Data Area: 196,608
Last Physical Sector of Data Area: 2,491,711
Last Physical Sector in Layer 0: 0

When you say your drive is also a DVD-RAM is this the kind of disc you have it read?

Unfortunately not a Verbatim.

Quote

TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-H662A UO00 (USB)
Current Profile: DVD-RAM

Disc Information:
Status: Others
State of Last Session: Complete
Erasable: Yes
Sessions: 1
Sectors: 2,236,704
Size: 4,580,769,792 bytes
Time: 497:04:54 (MM:SS:FF)
MID: MXL9
Supported Read Speeds: 2x, 3x
Current Read Speed: 3x

File System Information:
Sectors: 2,236,704
Size: 4,580,769,792 bytes
Time: 497:04:54 (MM:SS:FF)

TOC Information:
Session 1... (LBA: 0)
-> Track 01  (Mode 1, LBA: 0 - 2236703)
-> LeadOut  (LBA: 2236704)

Track Information:
Session 1...
-> Track 01 (LTSA: 0, LTS: 2236704, LRA: 2236703)

Physical Format Information (Last Recorded):
Disc ID: MXL9
Book Type: DVD-RAM
Part Version: 6
Disc Size: 120 mm
Maximum Read Rate: Not Specified
Number of Layers: 1
Track Path: Parallel Track Path (PTP)
Linear Density: 0.280 to 0.291 um/bit
Track Density: 0.615 um/track
First Physical Sector of Data Area: 200,704
Last Physical Sector of Data Area: 2,514,783
Last Physical Sector in Layer 0: 0

I have no problems with discs in this drive being recognized.

You might see if IsoBuster can read the Verbatim blank in this drive.

Not so much to use IsoBuster but to test with it.

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Now it's not even accepting the disc in my Pioneer Drive and image burn is not working. How do I get the error message from imgburn so I can post it up in the forum? I think maybe I have a bad download copy or something. Please let me know thank you.

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ImgBurn doesn't keep log files or I just can't find them. Looked in the usual places. Funny copytodvd recognized the discs as 7.8 gb and also didn't work. Now both drives are out. Something is up. 

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ImgBurn keeps logs.  In ImgBurn, open Help, and select ImgBurn logs.  It will open the folder containing your log file.

 

The log file is one master log that contains all the logs.  So, you'll have to look through it to find a specific operation.

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Oh, and you wouldn't most likely have a bad download copy of ImgBurn.  If it was corrupt, it wouldn't run and install.  It would be highly unlikely that it downloads just enough to execute, install ImgBurn just enough so that it works, but not work right.  With something like this, it's an all or nothing situation.

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Something's not working and it could be the blank media itself. I'm going to take back that batch of 100 disk that I bought at Best Buy and get my money back or get a pack a dvd minus R. At this point I'm very skeptical about verbatim, this never happened to me before at all. And I never never ever have problems with image burn with nothing except in the beginning when things were getting iron out and we had the upper and lower filter situation. That was about it though. I'll get back as soon as I do a couple of things. I'm transferring all my video files to another place in case I have to do a clean install. Thanks so my! I'll post back soon.

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Something's not working and it could be the blank media itself. I'm going to take back that batch of 100 disk that I bought at Best Buy and get my money back or get a pack a dvd minus R. At this point I'm very skeptical about verbatim, this never happened to me before at all. And I never never ever have problems with image burn with nothing except in the beginning when things were getting iron out and we had the upper and lower filter situation. That was about it though. I'll get back as soon as I do a couple of things. I'm transferring all my video files to another place in case I have to do a clean install. Thanks so my! I'll post back soon.

Okay I found the Cure! First of all Windows 10 is very very very specific! If the name of your DVD drive in Windows 10 is CD-ROM it will not read a DVD for the life of it. So what you have to do is Click on file action scan for Hardware changes and also double click on the file name that way it could change it back to DVD+-ROM/CD-ROM. It's a combination of those things. I'm too tired right now I got to hit the sack. I'll get with you guys later.

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I want to help imgburn logs and guess what? Imagburn is not keeping the logs either. So something definitely wrong is going on. I can't even get the logs the logs are not there.

 

 

Something's not working and it could be the blank media itself. I'm going to take back that batch of 100 disk that I bought at Best Buy and get my money back or get a pack a dvd minus R. At this point I'm very skeptical about verbatim, this never happened to me before at all. And I never never ever have problems with image burn with nothing except in the beginning when things were getting iron out and we had the upper and lower filter situation. That was about it though. I'll get back as soon as I do a couple of things. I'm transferring all my video files to another place in case I have to do a clean install. Thanks so my! I'll post back soon.

Okay I found the Cure! First of all Windows 10 is very very very specific! If the name of your DVD drive in Windows 10 is CD-ROM it will not read a DVD for the life of it. So what you have to do is Click on file action scan for Hardware changes and also double click on the file name that way it could change it back to DVD+-ROM/CD-ROM. It's a combination of those things. I'm too tired right now I got to hit the sack. I'll get with you guys later.

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Posted (edited)

Here is something for you to try..

First download & install Virtual CloneDrive.

https://www.elby.ch/en/products/vcd.html

This will add ElbyCDIO.sys to your optical drives drivers.

Unless you have AnyDVD or AnyDVD HD installed.

Then it will have AnyDVD.sys instead .That's OK because AnyDVD.sys has the ElbyCDIO.sys in it.

The reason I have ElbyCDFL.sys on one of my computers is I have CloneCD installed but not AnyDVD.

ElbyCDFL.sys also contains ElbyCDIO.sys .

For lack of a better explanation this is an ASPI layer.

You can check your drivers in Device Manager.

DVD/CD-ROM drives/Your drive/Properties/Driver then select the Driver Details button.

Then in ImgBurn: Tools/Settings I/O/Interface select  ElbyCDIO - Elaborate Bytes.

Then OK at the bottom of the Settings window.

Just for good measure I would restart ImgBurn.

For the logs make sure the Logs is checked in the View dropdown.

In Settings/Events On Exit "Save the Log".

Then it should be there when you select the Help dropdown.

Select ImgBurn  Logs ...

 

 

Edited by cholla

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Well, if you bought Verbatim at a Best Buy, they will, most likely, be the cheap crap CMC media from Life Series.  If you're going to get Verbatim, only get the DataLife Plus series which you'll only find online.

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I'm going to take them back to Best Buy in a little while because I think I have a bad batch anyway. Like I said they brand out as Ritek F 1601. and what I have to do is buy me a couple of brand new burners and make sure their compatible with Windows 10.

Anything from the logs?

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It's unusual to find Ritek in Verbatim media.  Still, it's better quality than CMC.  CMC is bottom of the barrel.  I've found Ritek to generally be a decent 2nd tier product.  However, some people, particularly in Europe, don't get good quality Ritek.

 

Sony farms out their DVD-R to Ritek now, that much I do know.

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Yes Ritek has their hands in many other brands. They're nothing like those CMC Mags or memorex. Remember Maxell? Well the company that makes Maxwell is pro disc and they got them by me at a mom n pop shop nearby.

I really don't know what happened to these burners of mine? I mean they were working okay and I burned a couple of DVDs to backup my video collection just fine. Then all of a sudden they decided not to work. I think Microsoft has their hand in a lot of this stuff you know. I think they just want to monopolize on their stuff like apple does.

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Memorex farmed out their BD-R and BD-RE to Ritek.  Caused all kinds of playback problems on the Playstation 3.  Verbatim BD-R and BD-RE don't.

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CMC Pro Taiyo Yuden 16x DVD-R Silver Lacquer Media- 100 $37.95

SuperMediaStore.

Are these bad as well?

I just want to backup my DVD collection on to some good blank media and I'm not going to need to be printing anything onto the DVD disc so I don't think I need any thing fancy except that it's good media. Which do you suggest? Thanks.

Those Verbatim DVD-R 4.7GB 16x DataLifePlus, Shiny Silver 50pk Spindle is $28.00 at The Verbatim Store. Lil steep though quality.

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Posted (edited)

Unfortunately, CMC seemed to buy the Taiyo Yuden good brand name and proceeded to slap their crap media with its good name to trick people.  Now, I've not seen any discs since TY closed up shop and CMC bought their name, so, maybe, though I doubt it, CMC is shipping decent quality media.  Most likely, it's the same old CMC crap with a good name slapped on it.  Check in ImgBurn for the Disc/Manufacturer ID.  In Write mode, look for a DID/MID field in the right hand side pane of ImgBurn and copy and paste it.  If it says CMC, it's probably typical CMC :horse:  However, DID's can be faked with anything the manufacturer wants to put in there.  I wouldn't put it past CMC to slap a Taiyo Yuden DID on their cheap crap CMC media.

 

There's an old Spanish saying: "The cheap comes out expensive."  Verbatim DataLife Plus costs more but it's worth it.  Plus, it's only just a little over 50 cents a blank!  I can remember paying $14 a blank 16 years ago for quality Panasonic DVD-R.  It's up to you whether you want to use cheap media.  But, cheap media tends to be unreadable, sometimes even after less than a year, after it burns.  Plus, a successful burn is no guarantee a CMC disc will be readable by a particular brand of player.  I had some CMC's to use as temporaries for someone to view, being only a $10 stack of 10 DVD+R.  The person I made these home movies for couldn't get them to play in their DVD player because they were CMC crap.

 

Actually, you shouldn't need the silver shiny media if you're never going to write a label on to them.  The branded media will do and it's probably cheaper.

Edited by dbminter
Added the shiny silver media line.

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