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  1. Yesterday
  2. Now, I've never copied a DVD Audio disc as I've never bought one, only created them myself, so I don't know if they're copy protected. Same for Bu-Ray Audio, which I didn't even know existed. I don't know if those are copy protected or not or if they can be. If they are, then we can't help you copy copy protected discs.
  3. All disc copies are made the same if you use the Read and Write modes of ImgBurn. There are a few guides that you may find worth going over to answer your questions: Concentrate primarily on the first Guide listed as that should cover almost everything.
  4. I bought a music box-set that contains a number of discs (CD, DVD Audio, Blu-ray audio). To prevent damage to the originals, I would like to create 1:1 disc clones (as my personal copies, ie. not for resale) and play those instead of my originals. Some of these formats contain 24bit/96kHz uncompressed, 24bit/192kHz uncompressed, 24-bit/48 kHz uncompressed, Dolby Digital @448 kbps, Dolby Digital @640 kbps. Can someone direct me on how I can create exact 1:1 copies. Thanks.(I'm located in Canada)
  5. Last week
  6. Use advanced input and the disc layout editor window.
  7. Under the Information tab in Build mode, is the Auto box checked or unchecked? If it's unchecked, try checking it.
  8. Am I mistaken in thinking that the Calculate button used to be continuous? I have to click on it each time I add a file to check my available space? Is there a setting I'm missing? Thanks.
  9. Earlier
  10. Had another oddity. Just burned a DVD+R DL that passed Write and Verify. Then, I went to Read the same disc I had just finished Writing and Verifying and the read rate plummeted to 0.01x at the layer change. I powered off the drive, powered it back on, and tried again. The 2nd attempt to Read the disc afterwards succeeded.
  11. Had another oddity. Just burned a DVD+R DL that passed Write and Verify. Then, I went to Read the same disc I had just finished Writing and Verifying and the read rate plummeted to 0.01x at the layer change. I powered off the drive, powered it back on, and tried again. The 2nd attempt to Read the disc afterwards succeeded.
  12. I do believe that first failed read was a fluke due to a behavioral "bug" either in the drive, Windows, or the OWC enclosure the drive is in. Unless you use the Eject context menu item to eject discs in File Explorer, the metadata of disc contents is NOT updated. The downside of this is if you don't do it, when you copy the contents of one disc in File Explorer without Ejecting, File Explorer is trying to copy nonexistent data from subsequent discs inserted into the drive.
  13. So what I was saying does not really apply to you or you to me since yours are from a random manufacturer as they might only overburn a minute or so over the usual 80min limit, but it's hard to say for sure without testing as we only know you can't do '82:26:49'. because I imagine with the 'CMC Magnetics Corp' how far one can actually overburn will probably vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. so in that case only way I can know the rough cut off point of mine in particular is to waste a CD-R and say try burning 82minute30sec or more just to see if it works or not as if not as when playing I can get a rough idea of where the cut off point is. but thanks for the info as I did not expect to get a reply given the age of this post and you only had one post until now
  14. I do believe that first failed read was a fluke due to a behavioral "bug" either in the drive, Windows, or the OWC enclosure the drive is in. Unless you use the Eject context menu item to eject discs in File Explorer, the metadata of disc contents is NOT updated. The downside of this is if you don't do it, when you copy the contents of one disc in File Explorer without Ejecting, File Explorer is trying to copy nonexistent data from subsequent discs inserted into the drive.
  15. Interesting how that drive apparently supports DVD-RW DL reading and writing since DVD-RW DL was NEVER manufactured.
  16. If the Super DVD is to be a viable format, it has to make a quantum leap in write speed. However, it is based on 3-D memory and not optical storage. 3-D memory may be super fast at writes. Without it in consumer hands, we'll never know. And it's not even in enterprise hands yet as it's only just a recently announced technology. However, I think your math is off. If it takes 20 minutes to write 25 GB, 1 petabyte is 125 TB. 125 TB is 125,000 GB. (Well, let's just conveniently ignore the 1024 factor. ) So, 125,000 divided by 25 GB is 5,000 20 minute writes. That's 100,000 minutes / 60 minutes in an hour / 24 hours in a day is 69.4 days.
  17. 1 petabyte / (25 gigabytes) = 40 000 *20 min. = 800000 /60= 13333.3333333 hrs /24= 555 days
  18. Based on 20 minutes to write 25GB... about 2 years?
  19. I don't know the brand. They were CD-R's I got from a thrift store with no branding on them, however Imgburn reported the manufacturer as "Manufacturer: CMC Magnetics Corp." They came in a stack of 100 and are white, with no markings whatsoever.
  20. One thing I noticed in your screenshots. I see the text CMC MAG, which means you're using CMC Magnetics discs, which are the worst quality out there. Over 50% of the problems we see on this board are caused by CMC Magnetics media and when people switch from them to the high quality media, their problems usually go away. Try to find Verbatim DataLife Plus DVD-RW. NOT the Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores. Those will be CMC. You can generally only find the DataLife Plus stuff in online stores.
  21. And probably wrong path in Share It should be D:\
  22. Other known problem is Windows doesn't see Volume label at default level. ImgBurn too. Problem with label. Windows 10 can do that with special mode go to adm mode. Disk is already inside (inserted)
  23. CONF: Windows 10. i3 Core 3.6 GHz, 16 GB RAM, SSD 240 GB, second SSD 240 GB I have the same problem with at least 3 programs with CD writing. I/O problem. Recently I have switched off >>PowerConfig on hiberfil.sys -h (About 6 GB, I have read that is possible). But that was mistake. Windows does not start after few days. I had to restore the hardware to the FIRST setup and the computer BOOTED. Then I have restore hiberfil.sys to ON. And almost all OK now. Still some problems with ACPI on second SSD 240 GB. Sometimes it logged out. Then must be restarted on HotPlug USB3.0. But all OK. DVD problem is under Windows 10 doesn't recording. Windows Explorator : WRITE files, directories, ISO >OFF BurnAWare : I have recorded 1x copy >>then WRITE >OFF ImgBurn : I have run 1x TEST mode > OK >then >OFF ImgBurn has given such errors: >>> PICS Windows 10 blocks every new programs which only knows after 1x WRITING. All attempts are logged and stored in temporary files. I have read about SPTI Microsoft. It is hard to re-install. It has work many times. I have recorded MANY-MANY DVD-Rs. https://github.com/Microsoft/Windows-driver-samples/blob/main/storage/tools/spti/src/spti.c https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/samples/microsoft/windows-driver-samples/scsi-pass-through-interface-tool/
  24. My guess is I won't get a reply from this user given the age of the post. but I am curious as to whats the specific brand those CD-R's? ; because if they are Verbatim I am reasonably confident you can go to at least 82:14:66 (82min15sec) and have a successful overburn and music will play without the clicking issue you experienced at the end of the standard music CD-R as I noticed in the past when I overburn too far on other random CD-R's they react the same, at least in some of my CD players if I recall correctly. but the Verbatim (CMC Magnetics Corp) 80min CD-R I have are easily the furthest I overburned successfully as I would guesstimate on any random brand of CD-R's nowadays you can probably get at least 30sec to maybe a minute or so over the 80min mark, but much beyond that your rolling-the-dice and it could easily fail. so when I got 2min15sec over successfully I was a little surprised since prior to that happening I figured 1min15sec to 1min30sec was pushing it really hard on any random CD-R brand. but if yours is Verbatim brand that probably means I am very close to the failure point (from my best guess without knowing the exact cut off point) as 82:14:66 works but your 82:26:49 fails, which probably means the overburn failure point is somewhere between 2min15sec to 2min26sec over the usual 80min normal limit. it's possible I could try pushing over the 2min15sec limit to maybe 2min20sec at some point in the future but I only burn standard Audio CD's occasionally and getting a CD-R to very close to say 2min20sec over the 80min limit might not always occur as I mainly use overburning so if I go a little over the 80min limit I don't have to remove any songs. who knows, if I did not mind wasting a CD-R I could say try burning 2min30sec over the usual 80min limit (so about 82min30sec), and assuming it fails, I could probably put it into a CD player and watch the time on the last song and see at what seconds left in that song it fails and from there I should be able to get a very close estimate as to the true limit of it by subtracting the time difference of when it failed to where it should have finished and then be slightly conservative from there. so for example... say the song playing failed at the 82min23sec mark (as the CD player starts the clicking and gets out of whack), which if it was 82min30sec that means it would have failed with about 7 seconds to go on the last song before it stopped normally, which that probably means I would have to have it so it's even less than that for the CD-R to close etc from a rough guess so the CD player does not do the clicking issue and will stop like is normally expected in a normally functioning CD-R. p.s. I never tried the truncate option though since in my case ill always either overburn (like if it's a bit past 80min) or make sure it will fit within the usual 80min limit by removing song(s).
  25. Guess you're right. I'm emulating Sillent Hill rn and it works just fine, aside from a couple stutters here and there. As you can probably tell, english is definitely not my first language, so i apologize for any grammatical errors. Thank you for your assistance, have a wonderful evening.
  26. I would say so. PS1 games were on CD where layer breaks weren't a concern. However, I can't recall seeing .MDS ever associated with a PS 1 game CD image. Of course, I'm just going by ImgBurn, which I can't remember that it used MDS in its file set, but maybe it did.
  27. Hi there! Dumb question, but: As far as i know, .mds files contain the "whereabouts" of the layerbreak. I'm emulating a couple PS1 games on PCSXR. So, i just wanted to know if the .mds is considered useless in this very specific case.
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