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Jim Knopf

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Everything posted by Jim Knopf

  1. Oh my God, what a bad ripp-off. Everything they're telling are lies. ORIGINAL Wii (and GameCube) Games CAN'T be copied by ANY Burning Application on the Market. Normal PC Drives can only copy/burn already ripped Wii/GC Images/Discs, and that can be done by EVERY Burning App that supports burning of standart ISO Images on DVDR (but ImgBurn is really highly recommended, as it's just the best). (sorry, post edited because it contains too much info that's not allowed on this forum) These people running these Websites are really badly ripping People off, and I really hope that some Actions could be taken against them. I think they never had any original Wii Game in their Hands and are only copying already backed-up Games and then play them on their Consoles which they've already bought fully modded.
  2. Hi IBEUD, as others here already said, Media Quality is your Problem. As you're already using the latest Firmware for your Drive, there's really nothing much you can do. I've read that some People have better luck burning these Discs on the Drive by swapping Firmware Write-Strategies (to eg MKM Strategies) using 'MediaCodeSpeedEdit', but others have reported this won't help very much for them. As you can read in other Forum Threads here, the only good Double-Layer Media are Verbatim Discs (made in Singapure). The good old 2.4x Verbatim (MKM-001) are the best, 2nd best in my opinion are the 8x Verbatim (MKM-003, Made in Singapure), although I also only burn them at 2.4x Speed, as that will achive the same Qualiy with my Burners as with the 2.4x ones. If there aren't any Verbatim DL Discs "Made in Singapure" available for you, just buy the Verbatims available (most likely Made in India). They won't reach the same Quality as the 'Made in Singapure' Discs, but they nevertheless are of much better Quality than every other Dual-Layer Media Brand on the Marked. In my experience, all Media-Brands other than Verbatim will absolutely need the right Media/Burner/Firmware combination to lead to a (nearly) good burn. If you're not using a optimal Media/Burner/Firmware combination, your Burns will sooner or later most likely lead to very expensive coasters. Also you'll sometimes get Verbatim Discs for the nearly same Price as other Brands. (Eg, you can buy Verbatim 8x DL+R Discs 'Made in Singapure' in 'Real Market' here in Germany for a Price of 9 to 14 Euro (10 Pieces Spindle), which is a really fair Price here (you mabe can get them cheaper onine).
  3. @ Demonic: Try burning this Discs using faster Speed (eg 8x, or mabe 6x if your Burner allows to burn at that Speed). I often got similar Messages when burning at 4x or Slower Speeds. Newer Burners sometimes got very bad Laser-calibration Data stored in Firmware for such slow Burning-Speeds on 16x Media. That's exactly what I thought by myself Years ago (you'll also often read such Things about CMC Media at other Forums). But my personal experience has totally changed that opinion. EG, i've bought the same Discs as Demonic above (CMC MAG. AM3 / Platinum branded) in a normal 'offline' Shop here in Germany and the Burning Quality was good @16x, very good @12x and nearly excellent @8x using a BenQ-1650 (FW BCDC). (12x Burns got PIE max. from 25 to 40 and PIF max. of 2 when Scanned at BenQ-1650 at 4x Speed (1ECC)). But I've also bought CMC Discs at some online Stores (Plattinum & other Brand) that where really absolutely crap. This crappy Discs always got PIE above 150 (up to more tan 1000) and sometimes PIF of 8 and up (1ECC), no matter what Speed I burned them (and 8x Speed was the slowest Speed that Discs could be burned at, at 4x I only got Messages like Demonic above). So I might say that the Quality of CMC Media can/will vary from Batch to Batch and mabe also depends on where the Discs are Made (Some Disc Labels like Platinum sometimes don't have Manufacturer Country written on the Package, so I can't realy say where the best are coming from). For now, if I buy CMC Discs, I always burn 2 or 3 of them and Scan them for PIE/PIF and if the Errors are too high, I'll just return these Discs to where they come from. And if want/need cheap Discs, I'll buy INFOMEDIAR30 / INFOME-R30 (eg Silver-Circle) which are in my opinion much underestimated Media-Codes and sometimes gave me the same Burn-Quality as Verbatim Discs (sometimes better, depends on where the Verbs are made). Also we shouldn't forget that some 'MCC...' Discs also are actually made by CMC (MIT) for Verbatim, they soemetimes also got better Quality than eg the Verbatim Discs made by MoserBaer (MII) . EDIT: @ Demonic: I've just seen that you're using Firmware DS02 which seems to be a very old Firmware. While Searching Google I've seen that there are actually newer Firmwares called DX04, DX06 and also DX14. As these Firmwares got different naming, i think that they might be OEM Firmwares (or mabe your DS02 is a OEM Firmare), so I don't really know if they are compatible with your Drive (but I've read that some People have successfully flashed from DS06 to DX14). Sometimes DVD-Drives can be cross-flashed with compatible OEM Firmware (or vice versa) without problems, but sometimes you need some Tricks (or Hacks) to Flash such Firmwares. If you're interested to flash your Drive with a newer compatible Firmware, you might take a look into the NEC/Optiarc Section of the CDFreaks Forums (club.cdfreaks.com). There you can get the above mentioned Firmware DX14 (posted 4 weeks ago) and there are also many People around that can Help you with Firmware Problems etc. I don't know if it's OK to Link to the Page at CDFeaks that I mean, but if you search for "Optiarc DVD RW AD-7560A" on their Site, you'll find the related Thread in one of the first Search-Results (was the 1st result some minutes ago). regards... ...JimKnopf
  4. I've just ran into the same Problem while trying to burn .ape Files to CD-R (WinXP-32bit, SP3). After some time, I found out that the only Process using that files is the DirectShow Filter itself. So I searched the Forums and found that Post by LIGHTNING UK!. As I just didn't find any reason why the DirectShow-Filter may need to write to the files, I've just thought about simply blocking the files from being opened with write acess. So I just set all the .ape files to 'read-only' using Windows-Explorer and tried to burn the .cue again. Guess what, it worked perfectly ! After starting the Burn-Process in ImgBurn, I was just waiting for the Error-Message to pop-up again (have also tested other Filters etc at this Time without any luck), but surprisingly ImgBurn just began to analyse the .ape files and starts burning. I don't know if this will also work on other Win OS (why shouldn't it?), but on a 32bit WinXP System this will surely be the simplest Solution for that Problem until LIGHTNING UK! releases a new Version of ImgBurn. ------- @ LIGHTNING UK! Thank you very much for this great burning App, I rarely use any others. I only sometimes got this Problem (not often): If ImgBurn is minimised in the Background while burning (Taskbar-Icon shown only) and the burn process is finished, the 'finish...' Dialog is popped-up and after clicking 'OK', the Dialog AND the Taskbar-Icon disappears BUT the ImgBurn-Window is not shown. This leads to a totaly lost ImgBurn on the System (No Window, no Icon etc) but it's still running fine in the BackGround (ImgBurn.exe is shown on Task-Manager). Sometimes the Taskbar-Icon is still there, but the App-Window won't open with double-clicking the Icon (had to right-click the Icon and select 'Restore Prog' to open the Window). But as I said above, sometimes the Icon just disappears after double-clicking on it and then there's no way for me to see the App-Window again (only happens after burning in Background is finished, but not everytime !?). (it just happened right now, that's why i'm writing this here)
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