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Burning a Xbox360-game stops at 20~30%


goodiegood

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good grief... advanced post...

 

so... i would need to download/get Virtual CloneDrive in order to get ElbyCDIO, or?

 

and what do i need the patin-couffin for..? must i download VSO Software as well and install it in order to get Patin-Couffin?

 

care to explain this a bit more detailed? i am a bit noobie when it comes to these kind of things, so yeah... please do so if you can, thanks. :)

Edited by goodiegood
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Yup, download and install Virtual CloneDrive from this thread - http://forum.slysoft.com/showthread.php?t=29061

 

After the reboot, ElbyCDIO will be available for ImgBurn to use. Just go into the settings and select it on the I/O tab.

 

Now try burning!

 

If that fails, get the VSO Inspector program from the www.vso-software.fr site and install that.

 

Likewise, after the reboot, Patin-Couffin will be available for ImgBurn to use. Select it in the settings just as you did ElbyCDIO.

 

Once you've tested them both you can of course just uninstall them again if you so wish.

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Yup, download and install Virtual CloneDrive from this thread - http://forum.slysoft.com/showthread.php?t=29061

 

After the reboot, ElbyCDIO will be available for ImgBurn to use. Just go into the settings and select it on the I/O tab.

 

Now try burning!

 

If that fails, get the VSO Inspector program from the www.vso-software.fr site and install that.

 

Likewise, after the reboot, Patin-Couffin will be available for ImgBurn to use. Select it in the settings just as you did ElbyCDIO.

 

Once you've tested them both you can of course just uninstall them again if you so wish.

 

ok..

 

i tried both. ElbyCDIO didn't work at all.

 

i installed Patin-couffin and tried burning with that, and to my surprise, it managed to successfully burn a 360-game! however, i wanted to burn another game now, this time it stopped at 79%.... you reckon it's the driver that's defect, or? i've even tried switching DL discs (i've got 2 cakeboxes), and even that didn't help.. so then i guess it is the burner itself, huh?

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Well this is where you really need to try the drive in another pc... or try under a totally new/different OS installation (hence my linux suggestion).

 

Of course you might just find it's not worth your time to keep messing around and so opt to buy a new drive. Fingers crossed the new one will not suffer the same issue.

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Well this is where you really need to try the drive in another pc... or try under a totally new/different OS installation (hence my linux suggestion).

 

Of course you might just find it's not worth your time to keep messing around and so opt to buy a new drive. Fingers crossed the new one will not suffer the same issue.

 

yeah... i'll try the driver in my friends monster pc... if it doesn't wor there, then it's the driver that's defect, mhm? do you think that the discs can be defect as well, or..? sadly i don't have any other discs than Verbatim DVD+R DL's...

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If you've been testing discs from 2 different spindles, I doubt they're the cause.

 

Does it say where they were made? India, Singapore etc?

 

i see..

 

yeah. i mentioned that before amongst my posts. heh. they're from singapore, which should be oky.

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darn it... i am about to give up on this shit now..

 

it MUST be the SATA-port that is screwing up the whole thing. i tried a NEW bought burner, same model, and it still didn't work! it stopped again! this time at 6%..........

 

also, i doubt that i've connected the burner to the correct port... just take a look at this screenshot, which is from my bootup sequence:

http://bildr.no/view/408429

 

as you can on that picture, IDE Channel 2 Master is my burner while IDE channel 3 Master is my SATA HDD (Seagate 1.5TB). IDE channel 0 Master is my IDE boot-up HDD (where my Windows is installed on).. perhaps i've done the connections wrong, huh?

 

also..

 

as you can see from the below picture, i've got a couple of SATA-ports where i can plug the burner to... however, i don't know how to open the "blockers" that are covering the other SATA-ports.... it doesn't say anything about that in the manual either.. got any tips on that? perhaps i could try to plug the burner into another SATA-port..? i've got the SATA-HDD and the burner plugged into the SATA-ports labeled with "1".. the HDD works just brilliant, the burner, as we already know, doesn't. the one's labeled with "2", i cannot access because i don't know how to remove those blocks, sadly. here's the pic:

http://bildr.no/view/408441

 

so.. any pointers now then, huh?

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What are you trying to 'remove' on the number 2 set of ports?

 

They're just laying flat so the cables aren't in the way of long graphics cards etc.

 

So basically, the cables go in horizontally (parallel to the board) rather than vertically (90 degrees to the board).

 

Is it worth you trying AHCI mode in the BIOS?

 

Failing that, you might have to get yourself a little Silicon Image PCI card and run the drive off that - assuming it's a general issue with that drive on your chipset.

 

It's a shame you didn't get a totally different drive (by Optiarc / Samsung or whoever) to see if they worked ok.

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reinstall your operating system

 

 

 

get new bios, update prior to updating bios reset cmos, update bios, reset cmos then set back up. Change all sata cables. (maybe change your psu as well )

 

 

when you have installed your operating system CLEAN ...make a ghost image with norton 2003 then install latest chipset drivers don't use drivers for storage if nvidia chipset etc try and just use standard windows drivers (also try using the previous chipset drivers incase latest are buggy in erro etc.

 

Try an ide drive for boot drive take your sata 1.5 offline . check jumpers on all sata hard drives for sata 2 mode or check bios is set to use 1.5 or 3.0

 

try 1 stick of memory or try an other stick.

 

also see if there is a bios update for any of the sata controllers on your board.

 

try taking things off the psu and only leaving say 1 hd and 1 writer and then try as well

 

 

 

 

 

you could buy a sata/ide to usb2 adapter to use the optical drives

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i see...

 

well, i am trying to remove those blocks that are "hiding" the SATA-ports so i can connect my burner to those ports instead... don't you reckon that could help, or..? but i don't know how to remove the blocks...

 

well, i will try the AHCI and see how that works out.

 

yep, looks like the chipset doesn't accept the burner... but how come that i could burn 1x 360-game without any issues and then it started to fail after that?

 

i bought 2 drivers (1 for me, 1 for a colleague).. perhaps i should get same driver again, except that i take the one with IDE instead of SATA, or..? do you reckon that could help? if that doesn't do it, then i guess that i could go for a Samsung. i hear they're good for 360-games...

 

EDIT:

 

dontasciime: woah... that was a lot of things-to-try-out.. i didn't understand all of it, but yeah... i guess i could reinstall windows, then install the BIOS i already downloaded(?) and then i don't understand the CMOS-thingy... i know i do this in my BIOS, but you reinstall then set back up..?? not sure on that one, mr.

 

i do have Windows installed on an IDE HDD already. should i try just disconnecting the SATA HDD and then give the burning a try, maybe?

 

i also don't know how to check for jumpers on SATA HDD's...where do i find this? i know on IDE it's on back of the disc, but i don't know on SATA discs...

 

so you don't reckon that the IDE version of the burner could do the trick..?

Edited by goodiegood
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Are you sure the blocks need removing?

 

Did you understand what I meant by them being on their side (it's 2 ports stacked on top of eachother) ?

 

You plug the cables in from the front/back of the board rather than the top.

 

I can't imagine why Gigabyte would have actually put plugs in the 4 sockets unless they're not physically connected on the board or something.

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i see... :(

 

i fail to understand why this is giving such a hard time...

 

i've just got an USB-burner on my hands. not sure which model yet, but i'll try out that burner and see how that one works out...

 

now i understand what you meant. then probably they're not for removal then... will look into that asap.

 

but do you reckon that an IDE version of the same burner (DVR-116D) would work better..? or?

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alrighty... a new situation!

 

i used my friends USB dvd-burner to burn 3 xbox 360-games AND 2 ps2-games 100% successfully! all games work and play superb. then it's got to be my pc AND/OOOR the SATA-ports that are screwing it up! here's what i did:

- first i transferred 1 of the 360-games to my IDE HDD before i turned off the pc

- i then unplugged both the SATA HDD and the SATA burner from their power + SATA-ports

- once i entered windows, i plugged in the USB burner and burned 1x 360-game successfully

- i then turned off my pc again, plugged in just the SATA HDD, booted to windows and burned the 2nd and 3rd 360-game (these games were on the SATA HDD) with the USB burner with 100% success!

 

i didn't do any other installations nor reinstallation of any applications. i plugged in the USB burner and started to burn, and it worked.

 

what on blazin hell is wrong?! perhaps if i switch SATA-ports for the burner? maybe it'll work then, perhaps?

 

and yes, the "blocks" i mentioned earlier got SATA-ports on the side, which i didn't see until now... so perhaps i could plug the SATA dvd-burner into of those ports and try..?

 

what you all reckon? it worked brilliantly with an USB dvd-burner, but once i used internal burners, it stops at random %.....

 

ps: i used the Patin-couffin I/O when i burned the games with 100% success.

 

what do you suggest me to do next?

Edited by goodiegood
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Try AHCI mode as mentioned earlier.

Try something other than a Pioneer drive on your sata ports

Try the ports that are laying down (although they're on the same controller so I doubt it'll do anything).

 

If it still doesn't work, short of buying a new motherboard that doesn't use the AMD chipset, you'll just have to use an alternative method of plugging your optical drive(s) in.

 

i.e. get that silicon image pci card I mentioned (something with a 3112/3512/3114 chipset - they're about

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