LIGHTNING UK!

It's exactly what I posted above in post 18. Right click on your desktop and select 'New' -> 'Text Document'. Edit the name so it says something like 'Copy Disc.bat' - Note that if you don't have Explorer set to show file extensions, this won't work as you won't be able to change the file extension from .txt to .bat. Right click your new 'Copy Disc.bat' file and select 'Edit'. It'll open up in Notepad. Copy + paste the 2 lines I provided in post #18. Close Notepad and make sure you save the file when prompted. That's it.

If you knew anything at all about batch files, you'd have made one using the info I provided earlier in about 2 seconds. It's ok to have no clue about something, just don't pretend that you do.

If you've tried multiple methods of creating the ISO and even the original disc doesn't play (or at least 'rip' correctly), I don't really understand how you've ended up here on the ImgBurn forum? Try the forums for the other tools you've mentioned, this problem is certainly not anything to do with ImgBurn and we can't help you decrypt your disc I'm afraid.

A disc image is a disc image. You can't read everything sector by sector AND be more efficient. If you want an efficient ISO (where extra padding has been removed and it's no longer 1:1), just build a new ISO. Use 'Build' mode and point the 'Source' at your optical drive (i.e. D:\ or whatever).

You have to make it. It's not an 'ImgBurn' batch file, batch files have been around since time began. I suggest you Google what they are, how they work and how to create/write one.

That's what Task Scheduler is for.

All you need is a batch file doing this... ImgBurn.exe /MODE READ /SRC D: /DEST "C:\TempImage.iso" /START /CLOSE ImgBurn.exe /MODE WRITE /SRC "C:\TempImage.iso" /DEST E: /SPEED 8x /COPIES 1 /VERIFY YES /ERASE /START /WAITFORMEDIA /CLOSE /DELETEIMAGE YES /SHUTDOWN That'll read the disc in drive D: to a temporary image file on your C: drive. It'll then burn that image to a disc in drive E:, delete the image file, close the program and shut down your computer. Double click the batch file and go to work.

Adrianvdh, I've told you before about xbox chat - stop it! This forum is about getting discs burnt+verified and that's it. Playback issues are not our concern. If you want to try and help people with xbox stuff, go and help them on an xbox forum.

The iHAS (and 'clone' ones) that offer the eeprom / advanced settings are probably the best ones to get. They're the ones that actually let you configure stuff and enabling 'Force HyperTuning' seemed pretty vital during testing. I can't speak for the drive internals. EDIT: Of course the Optiarc 5280S-CB-PLUS/ROBOT drives are good too. No messing with those, they just work fine for overburning MKM-003-00 discs.

What controller is the drive attached to? Right click the drive selection box and click 'Family Tree'. Close the prompt and then copy + paste everything from the Log window. If an I/O command fails and the sense data is set to the equivalent of 'No Additional Sense Information', it's probably because the real sense data has got lost along the way somewhere. Settings wise, OPC off (which is default anyway), write speed 4x, and eeprom/advanced settings of FHT/SmartBurn on (all others off) worked best for me during testing.

You can't do it in 1 step. I just meant you can already script it to perform a read operation and then a write operation via a simple batch file - and you can do that yourself.

It doesn't work at file level, it read sectors. When it can't read a sector, it skips to the next one - upon your say so. It telling you which file an errored sectors belongs to is just a bonus. Whilst technically valid, I feel your suggestion has little real world usage outside of the issue you're having. If you frequently get problem discs like this, try some actual recovery software - they may already have features like this. It's not something a non-specialist reading tool needs.

I will never add something that just saves the person making the suggestion 5 seconds in their own personal 'process'. If you want a program that does everything you need, write it yourself.

If it's just sat there doing nothing, the I/O command must be stuck somewhere. Unfortunately, I can't force your system/drive to process the commands. The program simply submits them and then waits for a response. Try in safe mode. If it works ok then, it's probably driver related - either the driver for the actual controller the drive is attached to or a 3rd party filter driver that the I/O commands are passing through.

And again Adrianvdh, you reply to something you know nothing about. This is why you've topped my 'Most annoying member' list since the very first day you signed up here. 1. This is something you should research yourself. It all depends on which media and speeds you intend to use. Some drives will do a better job than others on a given media at a given speed. Look in the drive testing forum and browse the MyCE forums to make your own mind up. 2. They shouldn't do, no. 3. Cache is the buffer that data gets put into when software sends it to the drive and before the drive has actually written it to the disc. When the cache/buffer empties out, the burner has to pause for a while and wait until it gets more data. Back in the old days (pre 'Burnproof' type technology), that would be an instant coaster. New drives don't have that problem - hence the reason for drives being released with less and less cache these days. 4. Yes, the CB-PLUS/CB-ROBOT drives are nice (and they overburn straight out of the box). In recent years, Optiarc drives have been my 'go to' drives if someone wants a decent all-rounder. One of the main things going for LiteOn drives is that they can scan (aka PIE/PIF or PIPO) discs nicely. Optiarc drives can do it too, but I have less faith in what they report - but that could just be me being used to using LiteOn's for the task. 5. Worked on in what way? Making the broken function in 2.5.7.0 work?! Yes, that was looked at soon after that 2.5.7.0 release. That's not to say it's perfect but it should at least do the job. I probably shouldn't have even bothered with it in the first place, I expect you're the only person in the world that actually cares about it.

If I don't reply, it's usually because I'm not interested in doing so - usually because it's a stupid suggestion or it's been covered before.

It shows you the total size and the current position. If you really need to see how many sectors are left as a number, do a quick sum in your head.

I've no interest in adding that.

The button ('Open containing folder') to the left of the 'Destination' field can be used for that.

You can do that yourself.

Yes, attempting to use the 2133520 will always fail. and by 'fail', I mean report that error/warning. That isn't the actual reason behind the complete failure. The complete failure of the operation comes down to your drive having a problem with the 'MBIPG101-R10-65' MID discs you're using. Try some others, as per that thread I linked you to.

Your drive will always fail to set the layer break position to 2133520, it can't physically do it. You need a drive that supports overburning DVD+R DL media for these larger disc images. As for the error during the burn, refer to this... http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

I take it the USB installer won't find the files on a DVD if it's just in the drive (and not bootable) ?

...from the instance of ImgBurn that's using the drive.

1. There is and should still be an 'etfsboot.com' file in the 'boot' directory - or at least there is in the Win 8 images I've got. 2. Due to the above, this question is invalid. 3. Yes