LIGHTNING UK!

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear... ImgBurn doesn't process the audio files itself, that's left for DirectShow to do. You can only burn 44kHz, 16 bit, stereo audio data to a disc in CDDA mode, so any file that doesn't match that format would be processed by DirectShow and converted to it (if possible - if it's not, you'll get an error). If the DirectShow filters take your mono wave file and spew out 'stereo' data with the audible sound only coming out of the left/right channel (speaker) then I'm afraid it's out of my hands. Load your mono wave in the 'Create CUE File' window, right click it and pick the 'Display DirectShow Filter List' option from the menu. Let me know what it says (via copy + paste / screenshot etc)

I have no faith in slimline drives at all. Never buy one if you actually have a choice. Yours looks like it has buggy firmware as I doubt the Write operation should ever actually continue beyond the very first error. Try burning at 4x rather than 2x (1x isn't a valid speed so the drive used 2x anyway). Try with some other discs - some that don't use the 'PHILIP-R04-000' dye. Verify your burns. That way you'll know if everything is as it should be.

It won't fix the problem here but it'll make your whole OS better and more secure. 'Windows Update' exists for a reason

Why haven't you installed service pack 1 or 2 (for Vista) on your machine?

lol yeah that might be it. Thinking about it, it was probably just a cut and paste from the (now deleted) topic in the 'Bugs' forum. I guess it was too much effort to rewrite it nicely.

Again with the capitals! You do realise that's REALLY annoying yeah? It's considered 'shouting'... and that's just rude, especially when you're asking for help.

If the 'Quick' button is greyed out, it's probably because quick erase isn't a valid option at that time. I'm guessing it's on a brand new DVD+RW or BD-RE, correct? Quick erase typically just writes zeros to the first few hundred sectors on the disc and is essentially a waste of time on DVD+RW / BD-RE media as they support direct overwrite. Brand new DVD+RW / BD-RE have to be formatted before the drive will accept any 'Write' commands - hence a proper 'full' format is the only option. You have a user name and a display name. You log in with your user name. The display name is what you see next to your threads/posts.

That's been burnt as a multisession disc. Make it nice and clean/simple again by using Build mode instead of Read mode. Just point Build mode at your H:\ drive and create a new image... then burn that.

Try the DMA fix from the FAQ. Uninstall the IDE/ATAPI controllers from within Device Manager and reboot. Can I assume you are actually working on that machine directly and not using Remote Destkop / Terminal Services etc?

Your drive is ancient now, update the firmware on it and only buy the 2.4x speed Verbatim DVD+R DL discs. http://www.firmwarehq.com/NEC/ND-2510A/files.html

Post the log please - as per the pink box up the top

It could be perfectly normal for your drive to do that. They go slow at the start and at the end because that's where it's burning to the inner tracks on the disc. ImgBurn has nothing to do with what you're seeing here, it's purely a drive thing.

Oh right. Well in that case, the Disc ID is 100% accurate. As I said though, a 'player' (as in, NOT the burner) wouldn't care about the Disc ID. It would just care how readable they are. If the burner did a bad job burning them, the player would/could have a hard time reading them. Be careful not to sell those discs as 'Verbatim' BD-RE DL, they aren't. Verbatim has its own BD-RE DL discs out now that list their disc ID as 'VERBAT-IM1-000'. A brand can use any disc id/mid/dye they like. Buying Mitsubishi discs doesn't mean they can't use a TDK dye. Unless I'm feeling lucky, I never buy discs from anywhere / anyone that doesn't also list the disc id/mid/dye the discs use.

This is actually more of a bug than something that needs suggesting When using Advanced input mode, all files/folders were being assigned an 'order number' of 0 - because the internal counter wasn't being incremented. This has now been fixed.

Then you should try cleaning the drive with a cleaning disc and/or buy some different (better) media. You want MCC/MKM dye Verbatim discs or something by Taiyo Yuden (Victor JVC). If they don't work, get yourself another drive.

Nope, extract it with something like WinRAR / 7-Zip or mount it in a virtual drive program and access the files like that. (I'd go the virtual drive route)

Get something like an Optiarc 726x drive and put it in an external enclosure. Avoid all slimline drives.

Does it load in safe mode? Do you not even get to see the splashscreen? Out of interest, why do you still have a Windows 95 machine?!

I send a command to the drive, it returns the info, I display the info. The '@' obviously shouldn't be there, it should be listing the rest of the id. I doubt players would look at or care about the disc id. I'd only expect it to be of any value when burning. Get the person to copy + paste all of the disc info from the box on the right when in Write mode and send it to you... then you can post it on here.

Ok well if you're logged on as a user with admin rights, it would normally work fine. Post your filter driver list please - use the feature in the Tools menu. Try the program in safe mode (still logged on as an admin user) and see if it works in that. Try the DMA fix in the FAQ where you uninstall the IDE/ATAPI controller from Device Manager and reboot.

It tells you why right there in the log. Do you have admin rights on your machine? The program doesn't have access to the drive, so either you don't have admin rights or some other piece of software is blocking it.

No, ImgBurn doesn't support DAA files. You should use the program that made them in the first place... and Googling that takes all of 5 seconds.

If none of the supported speeds work, try some discs from a different spindle. If that doesn't work, try cleaning the drive. If that doesn't work, get another burner.

I know you're using Ritek, I can see that from the log My local is not your local. There are links to some website that sell Verbatim discs in the thread you were linked to earlier. You'd probably need the original 2.4x speed Verbatim discs (MKM-001-00 dye) rather than the 8x ones (MKM-003-00) - which might also not be supported. Alternatively, get yourself a decent normal height (NOT slimline!) drive and put it in an external enclosure.

Again, the update isn't/wasn't going to magically fix your problem - it's not anything to do with the program itself. Old versions aren't supported and there's just no reason to be using one. Yes, the problem is your discs. Or to be exact, a combination of your drive/firmware/media. As for where to find the type of dye, you look in the disc info box on the right when you're in Write mode. It lists the manufacturer / disc id in there.