mmalves
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Posts posted by mmalves
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If the burner doesn't work with the best DVD+R DL media in the market then you should get it exchanged as faulty.
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You don't even need to change the layerbreak in the settings as the .dvd file tells ImgBurn where to place the layerbreak.
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Slim burners are rubbish in general, but when it comes to dual-layer media they take the crown.
You could try burning your current media at 4x and 6x to see if they work but you'll get better results with Verbatim DVD+R DL blanks. Also don't forget to leave Verify enabled.
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Your burner doesn't support the media you're using: the latest firmware is over 6 years old so it's very unlikely it supports blanks from the current market.
You could try a few brands in order to find one that works, or you could just get a new burner, which actually may be cheaper.
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Burn at 8x or 12x and don't use the computer while burning: you've had 4 buffer underruns at 16x and this lowers the burn quality (the software doesn't affect this).
Also you could do with better quality media as well, such as Verbatim (Victor JVC) blanks.
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Try buying Verbatim DVD+R DL media, as they work best in most burners.
If you can't find them you'll need to buy media from a few different brands until you find one that works with your burner.
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That's not something that ImgBurn can do. You'll probably need a BluRay authoring program.
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If you're using Windows 7 (possibly Vista as well) look in Control Panel -> AutoPlay.
If you're using Windows XP, in My Computer/Windows Explorer right-click the burner's icon, go to Properties then AutoPlay (or similar named) tab.
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Also make sure the two USB connectors are firmly seated, preferably in the USB ports at the back of the computer.
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Does a Full Erase work? Notice it takes quite a lot of time to complete (~4 hours). If it works then you can just overwrite the disc; no need to quick erase.
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The default settings should work fine. When you insert the blank BD-R disc in the drive, look in the media information text to see its supported write speeds (they're different than when burning DVD media). I guess 4x should be a good burn speed for BD-R media.
Also notice that you can configure AWS (Automatic Write Speed) to automatically change the write speed for your different media; there's a guide for it in the Guides section.
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The yellow triangles are warnings that those files and folders were renamed due to Joliet filesystem's 64 characters limit for file and folder names. If you use only UDF filesystem in your disc you won't have that problem. Also Data Type should be left at the default MODE1/2048 that is standard for all media; only CD-R/CD-RW can use MODE2/FORM1/2352.
On another note, UDF 1.02 is the most compatible of the UDF revisions; only BD-Video discs need UDF 2.50+, and, in that case, ImgBurn will ask if you want to change.
As for the burning, try burning at 8x or 12x, since your burner choked when burning at 16x. In any of these speeds it should take less than 10 minutes to burn.
By the way, what's the brand of the media you're using?
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Have you tried burning at 2x or 8x? Have you tried with other brands of blank media? Verbatim (Victor JVC) should work best.
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ImgBurn doesn't bypass copy protections, so you'll need to use something else to copy that disc.
Or maybe you could turn all those discs into one DVD? I've googled around and found a few guides specific for that game. Maybe you have a rewritable DVD that you could test it on?
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Most likely it's copy protection. Do you have another drive/computer where you could try reading that disc? Just to rule out a bad disc.
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I have, but apparently you haven't read what I wrote, so I won't bother trying to help you again.
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And that's exactly the problem with dodgy media: sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
Also slim burners are quite crappy at burning DVDs, so your only chance of good burns is by using high quality media.
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Your drive really doesn't like those discs. You can use the Verify mode to check that disc against the source image file.
If your drive has no problem burning DVDs, try burning that image to a DVD: in some special cases it can be done and ImgBurn will alert you of that. If yours can be burned to a DVD then it should be bootable and work just like as if it was burned to a CD.
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Please stop making new topics of the same problem -> http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=20365
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If you tried all that and it stil didn't work then you should try cleaning the burner with a lens cleaning disc, or even manually if you're careful.
And if that doesn't help then you might be looking to get a new burner.
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Could you specify what things you've tried and didn't work?
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Only I/O errors lately
in ImgBurn Support
Posted
TDK could have changed the dye they use in their blanks from one that your burner worked with for a new one that's unsupported by your burner.
To be fair I don't think there's media in the market that your burner has support, but I would try Taiyo Yuden and Verbatim blanks, since they work just fine when others have failed.
The best option, though, would be to get a new burner, something cheap like a Optiarc, LG or Samsung burner would most certainly work with the TDK media.