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The same issue was with Nero Burning ROM. You told me like 20 years ago that it wasn't doing its writes properly.

I doubt Ashampoo formats the same way ImgBurn does. ImgBurn actually tries to do it properly... and in full.

I thought of that, actually. I've no idea what AShampoo is doing in the background. If I had to hazard a guess, it is not performing full erases/format operations. Nero Burning ROM used to do the same thing. I would use it to write to rewritable DVD's but when ImgBurn would try to write to the same disc Nero had, it said it was an incomplete write operation and needed to do a full erase/format.

Hello dbminter, Thanks for your reply. The interface is indeed SPTI - Microsoft. I tried Patin-Couffin - VSO Software but the same thing happened. I then tried to select ASAPI - ASAPI.DLL but as you mentioned it wanted me to install other software so I left it back at SPTI, not wanting to install additional software. It leaves 3 types that I did not test: 1) WNASPI32.DLL 2) ASAPI - ASAPI.DLL 3) ElbyCDIO - Elaborate Bytes I then reinstalled the firmware for that drive (same version that was already on the drive) but it didn't fix the problem. I know you said it is most likely a firmware issue with the drive but then why did I not encounter any problems with the same operation, including erasing before writing using AShampoo Burning Studio Free? Same DVD+RW discs, same ISO file, etc. Regards, fbagnato

What I/O Interface are you using? Tools --> Settings --> I/O --> Interface Trying changing it. You most likely have SPTI set. Try something else, although some of the options requiring installing something else, which I don't recommend doing because, most likely, if none of the other options work, installing something else also won't. Since DVD-RW work, it is most likely a firmware issue with that drive. Particularly since you used 2 different DVD+RW.

Hello, I have just setup a new desktop computer. It is running Windows 11 Version 25H2 Build 26200.8246 and ImgBurn 2.5.8.0. The drive has the latest version of the firmware installed. I was trying to burn an ISO to a Ritek DVD+RW and ImBurn said the disc needed to be formatted first. The Erasing Disc then starts and the light on the Blu-ray Combo drive starts flashing but after some seconds stops flashing. The progress starts counting up from 0% and reaches 11% but then stops there. I left it running for over 30 minutes but the progress remainedl at 11%. All this time the light on the drive does not flash at all. I tried running the burn several times and also tried running ImgBurn in compatibility mode for Windows 8. I also tried another Ritek DVD+RW disc and a Philips DVD+RW but the same problem occurred. However, I was successful burning with a erase burning the ISO with a Ritek DVD-RW disc so the problem seems to be isolated to DVD+RW discs. I can successfully burn the ISO using AShampoo Burning Studio Free so the problem is confined to ImgBurn. A Google search of the problem suggests to Disable ImgBurn setting "Perform OPC before write" but I checked it and it is not enabled. The saved log is attached. Regards, fbagnato ImgBurn.log

hi i'm talking about macos file system i think it's ISO9660 + Joliet i think i should burn in ISO9660 + Joliet but i'm not sure thanks

I 'think' if you burn a general data CD/DVD it should at least be readable on a MacOS if that's your concern here. come to think of it, as a quick test... insert any random CD/DVD you burned over the years on your MacOS computer and see if it see's the data as that will pretty much answer your question.

Ritek currently makes Sony's DVD-R discs, which are good 2nd tier recordable DVD discs. Ritek also made Memorex's BD-RE discs and they were good quality. Ritek also made the last of the 8x DVD+RW ever manufactured for Imation and Memorex.

I'm out in Ohio. So, I just re-did the first disc that I tried that failed at 56% both times. On these RITEK-DR3-000 the disc successfully burned and successfully re-ripped to the hard drive to verify it's good. So, it is these Kodak discs.

Depending on what part of the world you're in, Ritek can either be a good 2nd tier manufacturer or the 2nd worst manufacturer after CMC. Seems in Europe, Ritek is pretty cheap media, but in North America, Ritek media is decent 2nd tier.

Okay. I ordered a 10 pack of generic "SmartBuy" blanks the day these Kodak discs arrived. These blanks just arrived today. I popped one in and IMGBurn recognizes it as: PIONEER BD-RW BDR-XD08 1.02 (USB) Current Profile: BD-R Disc Information: Status: Empty State of Last Session: Empty Erasable: No Free Sectors: 24,438,784 Free Space: 50,050,629,632 bytes Free Time: 5430:52:34 (MM:SS:FF) Next Writable Address: 0 MID: RITEK-DR3-000 Supported Write Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x So, hopefully when I click burn and let it go, we will see if it's those discs or if it's my burner.

WOw, I guess I should have checked this sooner...lmao

Yeah, I have been AI upscaling old Public Domain movies and looking at putting them out on Blu-ray to make some money on the side. I was looking at buying a giant tower of like 5 to 10 burners and you can't even find them now. It's ridiculous.

Pioneer used to make good burners until about 15 years ago. They borked the firmware for 8x DVD+RW and NEVER fixed it until the last model they released! However, Pioneer borked the firmware for OTHER things like 8x DVD+R DL only writing at 2.4x. Good luck finding ANY burners. It seems no one manufactures them anymore. LG and ASUS were the last 2 holdouts and they appear to have ceased manufacturing. Prices on Amazon are through the roof because of low stock. Apparently, you can get them from China, but in the US, there are the stupid tariff problems. Plus, if you have to return it, it would be cost prohibitive. I recently bit the bullet and painfully laid for over $300 for an LG WH16NS40 off of Amazon from a reseller to buy me a little time.

Yeah, they're USB plug in external drives. I got my first one back in like 2012. I think I have had about four or five throughout the years. I have been pretty happy with Pioneer. One of the previous ones, the whole center piece just came off after a few years like the glue or some just disintegrated. Tried regluing back into place and kept breaking off over time. All though, I am looking at getting another brand to try to figure out the whole flashing to get it to do 4K UHD burning and playback. I might get an internal drive one of these days but I would need to get a whole new shell for my CPU. This PC that I use is for video editing that my brother built custom for me. A new shell and a bigger HDD.

It sounds like this 2024 Pioneer was a slim model? Latches that hold a disc down in the center sound more like a slim model. My last slim model LG had a similar issue. After about a year, it became relatively useless because the whole center post that holds discs in it kept coming off when removing discs.

Hello, Thank you for your response. I have let the seller that these discs were bad. I have a few stacks of single layer BD-R discs and I burned one yesterday after a few hours after I made the initial post; it burned fine. I re-ripped it and it successfully backed up. I informed the seller, whom I bought from before, that I had previously gotten Kodak BD-R DL discs from them before that had no problems burning. The single layer discs I use are epro and RiData. I only had two fail on my previous Pioneer burner that died in 2024. The latches that hold the disc down in the center ended up snapping off. I didn't know how to replace the broken part, so, I handed it off to my brother since he loves tech stuff. He might be able to replace them.

My only suggestion is to try Verbatim DataLife Plus BD-R DL discs. CMC MAG are the worst optical discs out there. However, I've never actually burned any of those before. But, DataLife Plus is the high quality brand of BD-R SL that I use from Verbatim now and the only ones I trust. I don't even trust Verbatim's branded BD-R anymore after a series of 3 cake stacks all wouldn't burn correctly. That wouldn't easily explain, though, why you got some good burns and some bad, but it is possible to get some CMC media that completes burns and verifies. However, in the long run, they tend to die quicker because of their being cheap media. What that would generally indicate is the laser has gone bad in your BD burner. If you do try Verbatim DataLife Plus BD-R DL and you still get failed burns, then I would try replacing your BD burner.

Hello, I was having a problem trying to burn some back up Blu-rays for while I travelled. I haven't had any problems burning for the past two years or so and I have recently got a 25 pack of Kodak BD-R DL discs and four in a row were just coasters. Somewhere along the lines they failed to burn. So, I am a little confused as to why. I use DVDFAB and have ImgBurn 2.5.8.0 set to do the burning. The first three were just DVDFab using the file. And then I made an ISO file to see if burning that would fix the issue and alas, I am here. My burner, Pioneer BDXL BDR-XD08 is about a little over a year old. I have been burning regular single layer BD-R and dual layer BD-R discs until now. Whenever I inserted one of these blank discs, it gave a disc name of "CMCMAG-DI6-000" which I did a Google search and it was nothing but trashing the type of disc it is. ImgBurn.log

Hi I remember ,once i burned a dvd and i found an option to burn compatible with windows and macos file system may i know if there is an option to burn a dvd/cd compatible with both ? and where is it? ps: just because once imgburn asks me compatible with macos , i have re-installed on a new computer windows 11 thanks

Burn was successful, the disc is slow but it's likely just the brand

It should provide you with the available options when you try to burn the disc.

BTW, I know that your saying that it won't work on a DVD, but is it possible to change the layer-break position rather than it setting it automaticly?

BTW, if anyone is interested in USB 2.0 BD-R writing, I did 2 tests in a row and each one backed the other up. While it is possible to do BD-R writing on USB 2.x, the maximum write speed you'll get is 7.0x. At 7.0x, the buffer runs out, write speed dips, and then resumes at a maximum 6.0x speed for the duration of the burn. So, USB 3.x is necessary for maximum write speeds on BD-R, but you can get by with USB 2.x connections for writing BD-R.