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  2. I've finished 11 more successful Writes and Verifies. So, I don't foresee these failing to complete burns successfully. However, I still need to wait 1 week and do manual Verifies on these discs. My first bad batch of branded blue and white Verbatim BD-R would successfully complete Writes and Verifies but be partially unreadable after only a few days. A week has been a good indicator with the replacement batch I got which appeared to be fine before the 3rd batch wouldn't even complete Writes.
  3. Yesterday
  4. I just finished completing 17 Writes and Verifies. I order all of my optical discs from Amazon.com. I get DataLife Plus/AZO for everything from Verbatim. Except the BD-R which used to be fine but aren't anymore. Now, it seem the DataLife Plus inkjet option is the only way to go. I get some 8x DVD+RW from Memorex because they're the only ones you can find on Amazon and eBay anymore. And I get some Memorex Ultra Speed CD-RW off of eBay because that's the only place you can find them. Memorex didn't farm those out to CMC like they usually do and instead used Mitsubishi, which makes Verbatim's high quality media.
  5. @dbminter You've been busy! Good news that you've had success so far with the DataLife Plus inkjet BD-R, and I'll probably lean towards those in the future instead of the blue/white ones. The price is not bad for the DataLife Plus inkjet BD-R either (CAD$ 63.98 for a 50-spindle on Amazon.ca). My issue is that a have a few ISOs of music concerts that require DL media, and the DataLife Plus BD-R DL discs are a little on the pricey side (but then making coasters on other media can be too!) I may take a gamble on the cheap-o "Smart Buy" ones and see if they live up to their reviews. WIth regards my initial problem, I used ImgBurn to create an ISO from the BDMV and CERTIFICATE folders and then attempted to burn that ISO using ImgBurn, lowering the burn speed to 4X and using another of my remaining blue/white Verbatim BD-R DL discs. This time it worked perfectly and the resulting disc has no issues with my Sony Blu Ray player either. Whether doing it that way helped, or if I just happened to have a non-crappy disc, I don't know, but thanks for your help and input anyway - much appreciated! As a matter of interest, who is your go-to supplier for optical media? (ImgBurn log file attached) ImgBurn2.log
  6. I'm based in the United States, so I can't say for absolutely 99.99% certainty (Nothing is 100% certain. A basic law of probability and statistics. ) but I would say those are the same as the ones I've bought from Amazon.com over the years: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008L3HV?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LS35W?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1
  7. Thank you - I'll bear that in mind. Have I bought the same thing? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LCS3AGK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00097CE30?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
  8. AZO discs are some of the best out there. AZO are Verbatim's DataLife Plus series. Unlike their Life Series, which are the CMC Magnetics crap, the DataLife Plus series are sometimes labeled as AZO, which are the better brands of discs out there. So, yeah, basically look for DataLife Plus and/or AZO when shopping Verbatim brand discs.
  9. Thought so - neither have I Are Azo discs meant to be good?
  10. Hm, yeah, I don't think I've ever seen that kind of interface before.
  11. Hey! Thank you for the help. I bought some new CD-RWs and DVD-RWs from a guy on eBay (probably cheap junk) but works fine on my old Dell Latitude and two old ThinkPads so I guess its the drive, or at least that the drive is so old it can't read recordable discs. I can also confirm that I can read my old Verbatim CD-Rs on those three laptops listed above. I'm unsure how much use its gotten as I bought the dock (which contains the drive) second-hand. Took the dock apart and can see the drive is from April 2001 so yeah it's pretty old. Since buying and using the dock successfully in 2015, it has just been sitting in a draw (in a laptop bag) so it just baffles me that it could degrade when not even in use. The drive uses a 50-pin JAE connector (see attached, correct me if I'm wrong) so I need to find one that uses a similar interface to that while also being as new (little use and 20+ years old) as possible. I have found similar drives on eBay being sold pretty cheap: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125007241647 (2502, Jan 2002) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115709049106 (2502, Dec 2001) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303271710360 (2612, Jun 2003) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/356248995373 (2502, Jan 2001) They look like pretty good options but do you know of any good slim laptop drives that use this 50-pin JAE interface? In the meantime, I've ordered an external USB CD/DVD drive as well as some Verbatim DataLife 52x CD-Rs and Verbatim Super Azo CD-Rs.
  12. If I were to analyze this situation, I'd first ask how old the drive is and how much use has it gotten. Depending on the answers to those, it could be a drive issue. To answer if it were a media issue, it would depend on the manufacturer of the recordable discs in question. You say you were using Verbatim CD-R, but if they were the CMC Magnetics junk, I can see them having read back issues 15 years later. And if the DVD-R were also CMC's, that could explain it. However, pressed discs (The ROM kind.) being readable and the recordable not being readable could be indicative of a failing laser issue. Pressed discs have a lower read failure rate than recordable discs using organic dyes. And, given how it seems "universal" across the board that pressed discs can be read but not recordable discs, I would lean towards the issue being the drive needing replacing. You could invest $25 in a USB DVD drive and see if it can read those recordable discs. If it can, you know the issue is your old drive had died/is dying.
  13. The reason I don’t think the drive is failed is because it has read a couple of old imations as mentioned but also still reads CD-ROMs fine! I should try with a DVD-ROM. But the fact it’s a media problem also doesn’t sit well with me because when I bought the dock for the Portege I also bought some Verbatim CD-Rs and got these to work fine, I installed Windows 2000. But now those discs don’t work at all. Could it be the burner I’m using? So again, media or drive problem?
  14. Having the most annoying issue... I have a Portege 7020CT with the 10/100 Network Dock II. Specs for the dock can be found here: https://minuszerodegrees.net/manuals/Toshiba/ … cifications.pdf (scroll down a bit). The specs clearly state, the dock PA3007U, can support CD-R & CD-RW. I have burned several CD-RWs and CD-Rs using ImgBurn, MagicISO (Mode 1 & Mode 2/XA), with and without finalizing the disc and also using Windows XP's default burning capabilities using Explorer on a ThinkPad T41. None of these discs will read in the old Portege! However, I have Flight Simulator 98 and Microsoft Golf on CD-ROMs. Those read fine. I wrote some notes for myself years ago that says 'mode 2 burning on magiciso did work once out of two tries. what i have found to work is really using windows to create a MASTERED cd/dvd, then writing files to it.' Would the speed at which I write the CD affect the laptop that tries to read it? For example, 52x capable CD-R, I write to it at 10x... would this necessarily stop the laptop from reading it? Would doing 4x help? The drive model is a Toshiba SD-C2402. Manual here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/567771/Tosh … -Rom-Drive.html So as mentioned, CD-ROMs read absolutely fine. Tried several. I managed to get a couple of old imation DVD-Rs to read (they were burned 15+ years ago). Whenever I insert a DVD-R or DVD+RW, the drive sounds like it tries to read it but ImgBurn reports that it can't read TOC. When a CD goes in it doesn't even try to read it, it's almost as if the laser thinks nothing is in the drive. Why could this be? Media or drive problem?
  15. Last week
  16. Ah, then this is not ImgBurn's creating a .CUE file. ImgBurn creates Audio CD's with its .CUE creation function. The file names sound like they're a downloaded PS1 game. The .CUE file is associated with ImgBurn because when it's installed, it automatically Associates itself with .CUE files so when you click on the .CUE file, ImgBurn will automatically open, open it for burning, and let the user proceed from there. ImgBurn is not doing this BIN CUE file creation itself unless you're using Build mode and adding folders from a PS 1 game to it. Which you shouldn't do as the resulting disc most likely won't play.
  17. The cue files converted to Disc Image files by themselves before I used 7-zip or ImgBurn. The date modified was also messed up by whatever's going wrong.
  18. That's odd. It should theoretically be impossible for .CUE creation to make image files. .CUE files are burned on the fly to CD writable discs. Near as I ever saw, it wasn't even possible to create image files when creating a .CUE in ImgBurn. You are using the Create .CUE File function to make an Audio CD, right? When you say "with the ImgBurn logo," do you mean the image files have the ImgBurn icon associated with them in File Explorer?
  19. I've burned 12 of these DataLife Plus inkjet BD-R thus far. All 12 completed Write and Verify. So, they're thus far ahead of the last batch of branded blue and white Verbatim BD-R I used.
  20. My cue. files are being converted into disc image files with the ImgBurn logo without my permission. I don't understand what is going on or how to stop it disc image files are useless to me and I need to back up my games. How do I prevent cue files from being converted to disc image files?
  21. Okay, I just got my first order of Verbatim DataLife Plus inkjet BD-R since Verbatim's branded blue and white BD-R went to trash. I just finished burning a nearly full disc. Only 563 MB were free. It completed Write and Verify successfully. Now, this isn't a guarantee yet. I had one of the now bad Verbatim BD-R from my last stack of blue and white branded discs that completed Write and Verify, but the next 3 failed to either complete Write or completed Write but failed Verify. So, I need to do some more burns, which is convenient, as I need to do a near 20 disc BD-R backup right now. And I still need a week to make sure the discs are still readable. My first stack of bad branded blue and white Verbatim BD-R completed Write and Verify but were partially unreadable after less than a week. So, I need to wait a week and perform a manual Verify on all of those 20 BD-R's I mentioned that need burning in the previous paragraph.
  22. If you've tried both Verbatim and another brand of DVD-R, then the issue is either one with your burner or some obscure Windows error. First off, try changing the I/O Interface in ImgBurn. Tools --> Settings --> I/O --> Page 1 --> Interface. Try changing to a different interface. It shouldn't be necessary, but I would recommend closing and reopening ImgBurn between changing I/O Interfaces. See if any of those different Interfaces help. Barring that not working, I'd try getting a new DVD burner, preferably a different make, model, and manufacturer.
  23. They have a capacity of 4.7 GB. But both Windows Explorer and IMGBurn says 1.31 GB of 1.31 GB free. I can read disks fine. I tried with Verbatim and YDD and the result is the same. Here is the Disc info from Imgburn: TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-H653J FU02 (ATA) Current Profile: DVD-R Disc Information: Status: Empty State of Last Session: Empty Erasable: No Free Sectors: 691,136 Free Space: 1,415,446,528 bytes Free Time: 153:37:11 (MM:SS:FF) Next Writable Address: 0 MID: MCC 03RG20 Supported Write Speeds: 4x Pre-recorded Information: Manufacturer ID: MCC 03RG20 Physical Format Information (Last Recorded): Book Type: DVD-R Part Version: 5 Disc Size: 80 mm Maximum Read Rate: Not Specified Number of Layers: 1 Track Path: Parallel Track Path (PTP) Linear Density: 0.267 um/bit Track Density: 0.74 um/track First Physical Sector of Data Area: 196,608 Last Physical Sector of Data Area: 0 Last Physical Sector in Layer 0: 0 Performance (Write Speed): Descriptor 1... -> B0: 0x00, B1: 0x00, B2: 0x00, B3: 0x00 -> EL: 691135 (0x000A8BBF) -> RS: 8,310 KB/s (6x) - WS: 5,540 KB/s (4x) And what happens when I try to burn a dvd with 4 GB of data. 12:34:28 #28 Text 0 File DVDR.cpp, Line 3437 Reserved Track size: 2117344 (204EE0h, 4135MB) -> return code -1066 12:34:28 #29 CDR -1066 File ThreadedTransferInterface.cpp, Line 1921 Invalid field in command E: TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-H653J 12:34:28 #30 TRANSFER -27 File ThreadedTransfer.cpp, Line 1235 Could not perform start of Disc-at-once 12:34:28 #31 Text 0 File DVDPlusDualLayer.cpp, Line 1464 SetDriveCaps: Set LAST LBA of layer 1 to 0 12:34:28 #32 Text 0 File ThreadedTransfer.cpp, Line 275 Pipe memory size 83836800 12:34:28 #33 PHASE 38 File dlgbrnst.cpp, Line 2143 Burn process failed at 4x (5,540 KB/s) 12:34:28 #34 Text 0 File SCSIPTICommands.cpp, Line 454 SPTIDismountVolume - completed successfully for FSCTL_DISMOUNT_VOLUME 12:34:28 #35 Text 0 File Cdrdrv.cpp, Line 12325 DriveLocker: UnLockVolume completed 12:34:28 #36 Text 0 File SCSIPTICommands.cpp, Line 617 UnLockMCN - completed sucessfully for IOCTL_STORAGE_MCN_CONTROL
  24. I've never bought any BD-R DL media so I couldn't say anything about any other manufacturer's quality. You might as well try using ISO's and attempt slower speed burns. You've got no other BD-R DL discs to try and you know the ones you've currently got probably will result is problems, too, which means they won't be useful normally. So, you might as well experiment as opposed to just tossing them.
  25. I've yet to try burning another disc, this time working with an ISO instead of folders, and reducing the burn speed. I'll be doing that since I have the discs, but I was wondering if there are any brands other than Verbatim which could be considered in the future (which won't break the bank)? I found a couple on Amazon.ca at reasonable prices: 1. Smart Buy 10 Pack Bd-r Dl 50gb 6X Blu-ray Double Layer Recordable Disc Blank Logo Data Video Media 10-Discs Spindle CAD$28.42 https://www.amazon.ca/Blu-Ray-Double-Recordable-10-Discs-Spindle/dp/B00KB4YVF0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=29UTKFG8LWL1N&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XhB7ucWqrgDAahqYG6_5sw.jaVmISddREC4XN_NXz0NDj1ZyIN0gq0KkK9bODTc7uU&dib_tag=se&keywords=Smart+Buy+10+Pack+Bd-r+Dl+50gb+6X+Blu-ray+Double+Layer+Recordable+Disc+Blank+Logo+Data+Video+Media+10-Discs+Spindle&qid=1739376505&sprefix=smart+buy+10+pack+bd-r+dl+50gb+6x+blu-ray+double+layer+recordable+disc+blank+logo+data+video+media+10-discs+spindle+%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-1 2. PLEXDISC 645-213 50 GB 6X Blu-ray Double Layer Recordable BD-R DL White Inkjet, 25-Disc Spindle CAD$79.80 https://www.amazon.ca/PLEXDISC-645-213-Blu-ray-Recordable-25-Disc/dp/B00IMS58LI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2EBJIID3DE6V1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.CgaB32-MDIxZJpfYtua_9LsFhmU4vbnTILw7_vJnxPV22MR_yU26xfAqITDm78GJDmUhkUei5rT2b6_sRT6JBw-OUcaInIx0v58F8xKhb_faY44Q0ZEZcJzateEmEy26ts1VqswyZFxYBvNQybnoLlyX0mYaPUtM3v-LC2quJGa5qFmVggZxWbdt1Upop5f6UvKYKt7f44gPvIj4z1kxXGxK3eT1MTmdTnssg9--_MsjOQKCsb74Dx8Me3DfXQq9yO9lbaoUgkf6-3mjM07iUhwArg1tJ8_xtPXZCgb0mcPXK4mgM1--CyUUR7t_bJpp5KhKLDV7nATDlTP9zSll-6OQHOIIV6NGAyn41McbiDq1mXeYZAX-rIsJwW0NwVI-WtRNqptMrt0J0ZGhs0cFnGorgDg4jLshhrDJ7TYm4uVOpoIHYUeTQHTci9eVlBXL.l05A5mIdQg-ezMxJWAtJzhH2wgDRBIqo4yLDSJ3YMgY&dib_tag=se&keywords=bd-r+dl&qid=1739375841&sprefix=bd-r+dl%2Caps%2C116&sr=8-2 Smart Buy is apparently made in Taiwan and PLEXDISC is apparently made by Mitsubishi (also in Taiwan). Both seem to have pretty good reviews on Amazon and elsewhere. At CAD$28.42 for 25 Smart Buy, it may be worth a gamble.
  26. VenToy though may require some configuration a lesser technically savvy user may not be able to accomplish. I know I had to disable Safe Boot (I think.) in the BIOS in order to boot a VenToy USB flash drive I tested out.
  27. A Linux distro is probably what you want to run from a live USB or DVD as you can generally use this to boot to it and then access hard drives to transfer data etc. but generally I would suggest just using a bootable USB stick with something like Ventoy as then you can boot Linux or Windows ISO's straight from the ISO file as you just copy it to root of the USB stick, boot to the USB stick, select your ISO and use like usual. but even with Windows in general... the official ISO's have become too big to fit on a standard 4.7GB disc a while ago now. even Windows 10 IoT Enterprise LTSC 2021 (which is supported until Jan 2032 unlike regular Windows 10 which loses support Oct 2025. this is what I use in a virtual machine on my main Linux PC), which is smaller than standard Windows 10 ISO's, is still about 150MB too large at "4.5 GiB (4,851,668,992 bytes)". p.s. I am currently using Linux Mint 22.1-Xfce on my main PC.
  28. I tried dumping three mixed mode CDs and one audio CD, and while the audio CD's ISRCs were correct and caused no issues, all three CUEs of the mixed mode CDs contained an invalid ISRC that starts with TC and ends with a question mark (it was the same ISRC for all tracks), which prevented the images from mounting in Alcohol 52%. If I change the ? to a digit, or remove the ISRC lines entirely, the images can be mounted correctly. So this seems to be an issue with mixed mode CDs (at least), and while it might be the drive's fault, the solution can be to not include ISRC in CUE files if they contain an illegal character such as a question mark.
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