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Hello! Saw triple layer Blu-ray discs mentioned in this topic and hopped right in! 😁 I've started a research on these last year and the information I provided in that topic might help you to have as little issues with burning/reading that kind of Blu-ray discs as possible. (because knowing how to properly burn these discs is unfortunately quite important, learned on MakeMKV's forum while studying about disc drive firmwares) Check it out here: MediaRange BD-R XL (VERBAT-IMk-000)

Hello! Been some time since I've wrote on ImgBurn's forum. Seen this post here and came up with a few possibilities. First, according to my knowledge discs are made to support a certain reading speed: X1, X2, X4 and so on. Each one of them being a certain data-rate value: -on DVD 1X equals (1385000 bytes per second) -on CD 1X equals (153600 bytes per second) (DVD being a bit over 9 times greater) what causes this difference is pitch density and rotations per minute. Once the driver identifies what kind of disc it's reading, it should set limits in rotations per minute according to their rated standard, which is set as default in the driver's firmware. (the rated standard is usually stamped on the disc itself, but the user can modify the reading/writting speed on PC through software) Now here's where issues arise. Not all discs are born equal, same goes for every single piece of hardware coming out of the factories. 12 centimeter discs are made to keep their form as much as possible at a rated rpm (rotations per minute), if the disc is by any chance faulty from factory, degraded by time/environment or usage, it will warp enough for data to be unreadable at it's rated reading speed or even crack/break apart due to centrifugal force inside the drive. This standard of disc format we are using today is rated to "stay in one piece" at up to ~23.000 rpm, but once a disc gets anywhere near that, it will warp enough to be unusable even if it does not break apart right then and there. I believe your issue deserves to be studied more, and maybe test it out with a CD, DVD or even a miniDVD if you have any at hand. (although a miniDVD will resist better at a higher rpm than 12 centimeter disc due to it's reduced mass)

Be aware that ASUS has apparently changed the entire firmware architecture of currently shipping models of this drive. They appear to have started all over with 1.01 and they've repeated the same mistakes of the past. Like the first instance of this drive I first tested before, the 1.01 firmware version destroyed BD-RE discs. They are completely unreadable after writes and cannot be reformatted in an LG WH16NS60.

OIC. You were making a comparison because both drives broke discs. Well, I don't think it's because they're similar hardware. Why would ASUS and LG share hardware with each other? I have seen Verbatim drives that were actually Pioneers, but I don't think there's an equation there.

I was just pointing out the similar hardware, which is probably the reason why they are able to "break" discs.

I still don't see why you'd want to cross flash the "perfectly" working NS60 to the ASUS firmware that only ever worked with 3.11.

http://wiki.redump.org/index.php?title=Flashing_Custom_JB8_Firmware You cross-flash it into a LG JB8 model and then cross-flash it again into the BW-16D1HT.

I've not heard the two drives are compatible. Particularly considering ALL of the firmware except 3.11 for the BW-16D1HT has been problematic and the WH16NS60 has been (relatively) bork free firmware wise.

It's basically the same drive, right? I think the WH16NS60 can be crossflashed to the BW-16D1HT.

Mine occurred in an LG WH16NS60.

Something similar happened to me last year. I was trying to read a disc using an Asus BW-16D1HT but I was getting some errors, so I tried opening and closing the tray every time the drive got stuck reading it. I did that about 5 or 6 times, when I took the disc out the last time, it was cracked from the center to almost the edge. I had no idea Bluray discs were so fragile or that the drive could damage a disc like that and I've been burning/reading discs probably as long as you have.

In the entire 26 years I've been burning optical discs, I've NEVER had happen what happened last night! It started earlier in the day when I inserted a BD-RE into my drive and it made a loud grinding noise trying to read it. The drive never did anything else out of the ordinary until a few hours later. I was reading some data from a BD-R I had just burned to verify the contents when it suddenly made an even louder grinding noise than before and stopped reading the disc. I discovered what had happened: the BD-R had broken up into 3 separate pieces INSIDE the drive! Needless to say, I replaced the drive in question with one in reserve and I've had nothing untoward since.

Any updates on this issue?

AFAIK CloneCD and Alcohol are the only programs that could burn images that required specific subchannel data in RAW mode. There's still interest in burning these types of discs (as you can see here: https://github.com/Kippykip/SBITools). I know it's a long shot, considering Imgburn development seems halted for over a decade, but I would like to leave the suggestion here in case there's a change of heart 😅

Right click on the drive selection box and select ‘family tree’. Let us know what it says please.

Most unlikely a BIOS issue. One thing that might help is to change the I/O Driver in the ImgBurn Settings. Try changing to a different I/O and see if the issue goes away. If it doesn't, try changing to a different option and repeat.

Ah, I did leave out one part that makes it all extra odd - mechanically the drive is fine. I can press the eject button and it will open the tray, push the tray back in and it will close happily, spin up, seem to initialize the disc and spin it up for a few minutes, all the things you'd expect it to do, it's just that the PC it's attached to does not see any of this. Eventually the drive spins down because as far as it's concerned, nothing is interacting with it. But ImgBurn does not even recognize I've ejected the tray, on the software end the drive is in purgatory, perpetually stuck cycling the tray, but hardware-wise the drive acts like nothing is amiss, like it's the computer's problem for suddenly no longer recognizing its state. It seems like it is the computer's fault in some inexplicable way. The drive is an internal one so power cycling it individually isn't easily possible - now I wish I had gone for the external variant of this drive, though. Usually after rebooting the PC with the reset button I can load up the file I burned and verify the disc and it will verify just fine, so nothing gets messed up in the burning process, it's just that moment right after it's done finalizing where it can get in this odd null state. I actually just burned 4 DVDs back to back and they all burned and verified no problem, and then the fifth DVD it locked up after burning and I had to reboot. It's inconsistent as hell - all 5 discs were burned to DVD+R DLs from the same brand, and all eventually verified just fine. Could this be some sort of BIOS/SATA setting issue?

The only 2 suggestions I have are when ImgBurn gets stuck trying to cycle the tray, try manually ejecting the tray with the drive's physical eject button and manually reload the tray. If the drive is in an external enclosure, before rebooting, try power cycling the enclosure and see if that prevents Windows from hanging trying to restart.

Essentially what happens is, when the disc is done burning (DVD or BD, I haven't burned many CDs), when it does the "Cycle Tray before Verify" step, a good 50% of the time, instead of progressing normally, the drive gets locked in some sort of null state, where it never reports the disc being re-inserted. It hangs in such a way that any software that dares try to interact with the optical drive hangs or crashes. Only way to close ImgBurn in this state is through Task Manager, and if I try to open the drive in File Explorer, it crashes the entire explorer.exe process and the start menu disappears for a few minutes. Swapping out the disc with another or leaving the drive empty does not change the situation. The only fix is a full reboot - but even that gets interrupted - whether I Restart or Shut Down, the PC gets to the stage where it's no longer displaying anything and the monitor goes to sleep, but the PC continues to hang and never fully shuts down/reboots until I force it to with the restart or power buttons. If I take no direct action, the computer will simply never turn off, because the optical drive is preventing it from doing so. For context, this issue was present on Windows 10 and still on Windows 11, my machine has an Asus PRIME B350-M motherboard, Ryzen 7 5700X CPU, 16GB of RAM, and an RTX 3060 (though the issue was also present when I ran an ancient GTX 980). I do have software like MakeMKV and XReveal installed, though I never let these programs auto-run and the issue still happens on a fresh boot where they have never been opened. I'm not sure if this is an issue with the motherboard - I keep the BIOS up to date and it's never fixed the problem - or the drive itself - I'm never upgrading the firmware if that's the only thing that would fix this bug, because it's a holy grail drive one of the last that came stock from the factory with the LibreDrive-compatible 1.03 firmware. It works great for ripping all manner of discs, and when it does burn and verify the results are consistent and very good, but this is a pretty major annoyance, and I was wondering if anyone else had dealt with it or knew of any fixes.

Hi again! So, I figured the initial reason for the issue is because it's being read as a data disc by my BD player and the files are m2ts with mpeg2, which cannot hold chapters within the file; because it's having me go to the root folder and play the file directly, it's not reading the chapters. However, I've recently started with mp4 (AVC), which CAN have chapters embedded. I tried putting the files directly on the disc and also creating an image. Still having the same issue either way, though. Any advice? Happy holidays!

Every year I like to post some cynical bit of holiday "cheer." This year I've chosen A Christmas Carol, again, because this will be the first year that Tom Lehrer won't be around to hear it: https://genius.com/Tom-lehrer-a-christmas-carol-lyrics

I can verify from experience that running changes in dye manufacture can render DVD-R unusable. Some years ago, LG's WH16NS60 stopped working with Verbatim DataLife Plus MCC DVD-R's. Until they updated the firmware, the burns always resulted in failed Verifies. I had to briefly switch to CMC Pro's since they were TY's. Once the firmware update was released, MCC's resumed burning correctly in the NS60.

Oh ok, that makes more sense. I just assumed that fact because I got similar scans to the one you posted, but I was able to pass the verify stage without any read errors. Good to hear that those older discs from MCC are working out better. It's plausible that they could have changed the dye to the point where your existing drives may not be really compatible with them anymore. Yeah I agree, those results are hard to get. I feel like they are easier to achieve on CDs as opposed to DVDs. I use a batch of Sony DVDs from the early 2000s that my dad bought, and I only got in the "ok" range of burn quality. (These were from back when Sony manufactured their own discs.) Those are for sure the best of the best results. You only need so much to the point where the disc becomes unreadable. People just want a really good burn to start with so natural degradation won't the cause the disc to become unreadable anytime soon. If your disc passes verify and the drive doesn't appear to be struggling to read the disc by slowing down the speed, your burn is just fine and will probably be readable for quite a few years.

It was not 'lower quality' but outright read failure (i.e. I can't even copy the data from disc back to hard drive for general use), which is why I posted it. the general point of those two KPobe scans were to give people around here a rough estimate as to the difference of 'quality' (and thereabouts) vs 'outright failure' (or thereabouts). I just can't say at which point is specific failure, but given that scan it's probably the '76' red spike. if not just that, then the rest are around 25-30 or so tops and even if that technically does read it, I would not be feeling good on that one at all. but in regards to those TYG02 are discs I bought a long time ago (likely when I got my first DVD burner which means 2005 at the oldest. but probably there or maybe a year or two after when I got the TYG02 discs, so call it about 2005-2007) as I still have a large portion of those un-burned (since at this point I pretty much use them for limited higher importance data backup). the MCC on the other hand, were bought back in I think 2022 (as I mentioned I only burned a small amount before returning them as basically defective) and pretty much all others of similar type (DVD-R or +R of same MCC Verbatim variations) I had in the past, of which I still have plenty of those, still burn well (or not too far from those standards) the last I checked as on the 100-pack shows a date of Jan 2014. so I suspect quality of discs has varied, or maybe I got a bad batch(?), or maybe they tweaked the dye a bit since and my burners don't particularly like the newer ones(?). but burn the ones I have from Jan 2014 quite well the last I checked and I had the same DVD burners for quite sometime... Liteon 1673S from 2005, Sony Optiarc 7240s from I think 2009, and most recently Liteon iHAS-324B from I think 2011. in fact, taking a quick look through some of my older scans of MMC, which are the 'older' stuff I bought probably over a decade ago now, show quality scans of say 'MCC004' (i.e. Verbatim DVD+R 16x rated) with PIE max of 19, so quite good here, and on the PIF's, which are more important, are 2 MAX and a grand total of only 639 PIF's total on the entire disc as that scan was Oct 2017. I also saw Verbatim DVD-R with a media code of MCC03RG20 and that was scanned April 2022 (disc originally burned Sep 2010 which means it had to be either burned on my Liteon 1673S or Sony Optiarc 7240s) with a max PIE peak of 38, so not 'perfect' but not far from it, and more importantly the PIF's are very low as while it had a peak of '3' single spike (damn near all of the rest were '1' lacking a small amount of '2'), the total disc was only 239 total, so pretty great here. I even have some 'old' stock I bought on Ebay roughly a handful of years ago (I would have to check to say for sure but this is likely close) that are the older Verbatim DVD+R 8x 'MCC_003' and the burn quality of those varies, but is generally anywhere from okay-ish (some I might be a bit concerned with) but most are good and some in that great range as in that 10 or so PIE ball park etc. or another way to put it... out of the nearly 50 scanned 'MCC_003' discs only about 5 or so tops I might have some level of concern with burn quality (but even these, assuming they hold at their current rate and don't degrade much as time passes, could easily still be readable a long time from now). so about 10%. but even these, using that disc scan above that I already posted as a rough estimate of actual disc read failure, pretty much all or maybe all besides about one of them, look 'good enough' one could say, which takes that 10% back to about 2%. but the 0-10 stuff in blue you mentioned (and assuming low PIF's etc like I was roughly saying)... that's more of that nit-picking 'best of the best' quality range, which I generally don't worry about too much since the first scan I posted is far closer to 'perfect' than 'failure'. but I have seen some scans in that 10-ish range though on other sites over the years, which are great, but like I say, I don't even worry about getting close to that range in general since it's pretty much overkill burn quality. so in short, besides that bad batch from 2022 I sent back, overall I am anywhere from good enough to great-ish burn quality.

Based on this guide, it says that the best possible burns have C1 errors (for CDs) or PIEs (for DVDs) that are between 0 and 10. Your TYG02 burn seems to be close within this range to the point where it would classify as a good quality burn. Your MCC DVD burn on the other hand is on the lower quality side, as you pointed out with the higher PIEs being the "blue" stuff. Usually MCC is supposed to be better than the results you achieved. Maybe the specific drive you used preferred Taiyo Yuden over the verbatim media?