RedSpy

Ah I see. Thanks for all the info.

just curious, why don't you use DVD+R? I was under the impression that + was superior to - and so I stopped using DVD-R.

ahh well that's a bummer. I guess I will use these to make data dvds.and order new ones from newegg. Thanks!

Lightning? any insight? I tried clicking on all the brands for each drive... For the MATSHITA, it gives "DVD+R" when I choose NuTech and it gives "Unknown (FAILED)" for everything else so it seems that MATSHITA is NuTech. Did same thing for SONY and it appears that it's a NEC. But the TSSTCorp is a little odd. Just like the image below Step 4 in the booktyping guide it says "Unknown (No way to query current setting!)" when I select Samsung. But it also says "DVD+R" and doesn't say "Unknown (FAILED)" when I select NuTech. Is it Samsung or NuTech? Am I correct in assuming that all my drives are OEM since names are different from the drive brand? Which would you recommend I do all my burning with? Sorry for so many questions. I'm just really OCD. :-)

how could I tell if the mcc is actually a cmc? I have some single layer (+) I bought a while ago and I'm trying to find out where it was made. I know it's on the outer cover but because I got it before I knew about how quality can be affected by where it was manufactured, I threw it (the outer cover) away before checking. When I pop it into my drive and load up ImgBurn, it says MCC-004 but how can I tell if it's actually a Singapore MCC and not a CMC (Taiwan?) or a Prodisc (???) or a MBI (India?)?

But aren't there inferior brands that use the mcc code? I thought that's what I read somewhere but wasn't sure if that info was outdated.

With verbatim dvd+r dl discs, it seems pretty straightforward that the ones made in singapore are best. But what about the single layer DVD+Rs? After doing a quick search on the internet, I can say that I'm totally confused. MCC? CMC? Prodisc? MBI? PAPA? MIT? WTF? Can anyone explain what all this means and which one I should get? I would be most appreciative!

Ok. Thank you. I will try burning just as is and if it doesn't for whatever reason, I'll set the booktype manually. But I was also wondering... What advantages are there (if any) for using one drive over another? Are certain drives less error prone than others? Can one drive produce a more stable successful burn than another? Or are all successful burns created equal? I have 1 desktop computer and 3 laptops I can use. - Info: SONY DVD RW DRU-V204A 1.60 (D:) (ATA) [Custom AMD Desktop] - Info: Slimtype DVD A DS8A5SH XAA2 (E:) (ATAPI) [Crappy Asus Laptop] - Info: MATSHITA DVD-RAM UJ8D1 L.01 (D:) (SATA) [brand New Samsung Laptop] - Info: TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-U633A AC01 (D:) (ATAPI) [Acer Laptop w/ Busted Screen] Which would be the ideal one of the bunch to do the burning? (I will be using only Singapore made Verbatim DVD+R and DVD+R DL! ) Also, going off the picture in the same booktyping guide, is it correct to assume that TSSTcorp = Samsung? And which is the SONY and MATSHITA? And are any of them OEM drives and/or do I need to worry about the advanced button where I 'add the OEM drive in a table'? Thanks for helping a clueless newbie and making a kick-ass program for burning video DVDs! (though I don't understand most of the stuff in the settings lol)

This question is regarding the guide on booktyping here: http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=9992 It says: NOTE: Many drives are factory set to booktype dvd+r dl media to dvd-rom. ImgBurn (by default) will booktype to dvd-rom on these 'supported' drives. Also there are a few drives which aren't capable of booktyping/bitsetting at all out of the box...Pioneer drives being one make. How do I find out which drives are factory set to booktype? Is there a list somewhere? Also, my drive info says Slimtype DVD A DS8A5SH XAA2 (E:) (ATAPI). I don't see Slimtype anywhere in the booktyping settings. How do I find out what brand it is? Also, what is OEM drive? How do I know if I have an OEM drive or not? Thank you.

ah ok.. thanks for the support!

I see... Are there other programs that could? Or does what you said mean that the .iso --> video_ts process causes information to be lost that can't be recovered?

If I use winrar to extract the .iso image to the video_ts folder, can I then take those video_ts files and create an exact copy of the original .iso? Obviously, ImgBurn can be used to create an image but will it be the exact same (bit identical) image?