Can't burn .iso file to Verbatim DVD-R disc with either of two drives

[edwardBe]

Hello all,
I am trying to burn a .iso file for an elderly friend with no computer just a DVD player to verbatim DVD-R discs without success. ImageBurn gets to within 80-90% and then gives write errors:
10:54:05 Failed to Write Sectors 2113920 - 2113951 - Reason: Unknown (Internal Target Failure) (ASC: 0x44, ASCQ: 0xA9)

This keeps happening on two different DVD burners, one in my laptop and one external drive.
The internal drive is a Slimtype Prod_DVD_A__DA8AESH and the external drive is a Pioneer BD/DVD/CD burner.
My computer is an Acer Aspire E5-575G with an Intel Core i5-6200U CPU @ 2.30GHz 2.40 GHz 8GB RAM.
Edition Windows 10 Home
Version 21H1
Installed on ‎10/‎17/‎2020
OS build 19043.1526

The fact that it happens in two different burners makes me think it is the discs, but they are only 5 years old which many sources say should still be fine.
I've ordered a small, new package of the same discs, but AZO to try.
In the meantime, any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks.

ImgBurn.log

Edited February 27, 2022 by edwardBe
Omitted word.

[dbminter]

Going over all the log, I've compiled a few relevant things that I think lead to the problem.  You're failing even on fine quality MCC discs from Verbatim/Mitsubishi.  You're failing on 2 different drives, but there's one thing in common with both of them.  They're both slim drives.  Slim drives are generally trash.  So, I'd lay the blame on the use of slim drives.  Try half height drives.  I would be willing to bet the AZO discs will fail, too.  You were failing on quality MCC, quality MKM DVD+R DL from Verbatim/Mitsubishi, and a ProDisc which is trash to begin with.

 

One thing.  Is your USB Pioneer connected by USB 3.x?  If it's USB 2.x, connect it by USB 3.x.  BD burners that are USB need USB 3.x connections or they will probably error out.

[edwardBe]

1 hour ago, dbminter said:

Going over all the log, I've compiled a few relevant things that I think lead to the problem.  You're failing even on fine quality MCC discs from Verbatim/Mitsubishi.  You're failing on 2 different drives, but there's one thing in common with both of them.  They're both slim drives.  Slim drives are generally trash.  So, I'd lay the blame on the use of slim drives.  Try half height drives.  I would be willing to bet the AZO discs will fail, too.  You were failing on quality MCC, quality MKM DVD+R DL from Verbatim/Mitsubishi, and a ProDisc which is trash to begin with.

 

One thing.  Is your USB Pioneer connected by USB 3.x?  If it's USB 2.x, connect it by USB 3.x.  BD burners that are USB need USB 3.x connections or they will probably error out.

Thanks for your time. I'm not sure I can find a USB 3.x cable for this drive. It's a bit old. What's mystifying is that I've been burning ISO files to discs from this same package of discs using the internal burner of my previous laptop as well as this laptop for 5 years and this is the first time either one failed multiple times using both DVDFab and ImgBurn. I only tried the external drive because the internal drive failed to write the ISO file.

I guess I need to move my parents into the 21st century by educating them about USB and I guess computers in general.

[dbminter]

Not all slim models are trash.  Generally, Pioneer is good slim models, but I don't know about yours, so I can't explain your results.  The slim burner in your old laptop may have been one of the better models.  Do you remember what model was in your laptop?

 

For instance, the LG BU40N BD burner appears to be a good slim one.  I haven't thoroughly tested the one in my desktop tower, but it's passed what tests I have thrown at it before.

[edwardBe]

28 minutes ago, dbminter said:

Not all slim models are trash.  Generally, Pioneer is good slim models, but I don't know about yours, so I can't explain your results.  The slim burner in your old laptop may have been one of the better models.  Do you remember what model was in your laptop?

 

For instance, the LG BU40N BD burner appears to be a good slim one.  I haven't thoroughly tested the one in my desktop tower, but it's passed what tests I have thrown at it before.

My old laptop was a Toshiba Satellite C55D-B5308 15.6-Inch Laptop (AMD E1-Series, 4GB Memory, 500GB Hard Drive) that I bought in 2015.

[dbminter]

But, no info on the optical disc burner installed in the laptop?

[edwardBe]

23 minutes ago, dbminter said:

But, no info on the optical disc burner installed in the laptop?

If you mean the old one, this is all that comes up with a Google search: "DVD SuperMulti drive supporting 11 formats"

[dbminter]

Sorry, yeah, I meant the old laptop where you were getting successful burns before.  Since it was in a laptop, it, too, would be a slim model drive, but it may have been one of the better models.  Unfortunately, of course, that description doesn't help much in identifying what model was in your old laptop.

[edwardBe]

1 minute ago, dbminter said:

Sorry, yeah, I meant the old laptop where you were getting successful burns before.  Since it was in a laptop, it, too, would be a slim model drive, but it may have been one of the better models.  Unfortunately, of course, that description doesn't help much in identifying what model was in your old laptop.

I gave it away so long ago, that I can't even remember to whom I gave it. Maybe the local charter school.

[edwardBe]

32 minutes ago, dbminter said:

Sorry, yeah, I meant the old laptop where you were getting successful burns before.  Since it was in a laptop, it, too, would be a slim model drive, but it may have been one of the better models.  Unfortunately, of course, that description doesn't help much in identifying what model was in your old laptop.

One was for sale here: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/toshiba-satellite-c55d-b5308-c55t-c55-1792314796?popular

The photo is upside down, but it seems to say "DVD Writer Model SU208" and I have no idea, of course if this was the exact drive in my Toshiba.

Better photo here: https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Satellite-C55D-C-Optical-Replacement/dp/B076DD2MG6

Edited February 28, 2022 by edwardBe
Added another link.

[dbminter]

The SU208 is a Toshiba or Samsung model.  I've no experience with those, although I believe TSST is Toshiba and the SU208 might be a TSST model.  TSST models tend to be somewhat iffy in terms of reports I've seen from users with issues with those on here.  However, you seemed to have no problems.

[edwardBe]

50 minutes ago, dbminter said:

The SU208 is a Toshiba or Samsung model.  I've no experience with those, although I believe TSST is Toshiba and the SU208 might be a TSST model.  TSST models tend to be somewhat iffy in terms of reports I've seen from users with issues with those on here.  However, you seemed to have no problems.

No, no problems at all. Now that you mention it, I remember seeing TSST as the descriptor in the little "save to" drop-down list in DVDFab when burning to disc.

The new AZO discs should arrive today, so I'll see what happens. At least they are only around $5 for a 10 pack...

[dbminter]

TSST is short for Toshiba Samsung Storage Technology.  It's an ID string that appears in the "names" of things like Toshiba/Samsung hard drives and optical disc burners.  It's common for Toshiba/Samsung optical disc burners to "identify" themselves to the OS as "names" with TSST in them.

[edwardBe]

1 minute ago, dbminter said:

TSST is short for Toshiba Samsung Storage Technology.  It's an ID string that appears in the "names" of things like Toshiba/Samsung hard drives and optical disc burners.  It's common for Toshiba/Samsung optical disc burners to "identify" themselves to the OS as "names" with TSST in them.

Got it. While I have your attention, I'm thinking about a new computer since my current one is not compatible with Windows 11. This Dell has Windows 11 pro and some other good-looking features: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NX3RTT7

Also, have you ever used laplink to migrate to a new computer? They say it is compatible with Win 11, even when going from Win 10 home to Win 11 pro.

Do you buy extended service plans?

Thanks again for so much of your time.

[dbminter]

My PC is a Dell XPS 8930 desktop.  It just happened to be Windows 11 compliant, so I was able to upgrade its Windows 10 Home.  I get my Dell's from their web site so I can customize the hardware.

 

I never migrate anything with any kind of automated software.  I prefer to do it all myself.  Software settings are stored all over the Registry so just moving things from one PC to another doesn't work.  Laplink may just migrate simple things like Documents, though.  I don't store any user files in Documents, preferring my own locations on USB HDD's.  This keeps the Windows partition smaller and thus my daily backups smaller and quicker.  So, I don't have much to migrate.  And I prefer to reinstall everything on a new PC.  That way, I can find out what installs and doesn't, as there usually is something that won't work right, on a different PC.  I also have a lot of portable applications so I can just point shortcuts to them on my USB HDD's.  And my e-mail and web browser clients have options to load profiles from alternate locations, so I just install them and point them to the profile folders I have on my USB HDD's.

 

I generally don't buy extended warranties.  It rarely bites me in the ass, but 2 years ago, it did.  Half a year after the warranty expired on my previous 8930, it required replacing.  It's the only time I never bought an extended PC warranty that I ever had the need to take advantage of one.  Extended warranties are generally a waste of money.  Most repairs when needed will generally be within the warranty if a repair is required.  And most PC's last longer than extended warranties, but as I showed in my case, it's not always the case.  So, it's up to the user if they want to invest the money in an extended warranty.

[edwardBe]

11 minutes ago, dbminter said:

My PC is a Dell XPS 8930 desktop.  It just happened to be Windows 11 compliant, so I was able to upgrade its Windows 10 Home.  I get my Dell's from their web site so I can customize the hardware.

 

I never migrate anything with any kind of automated software.  I prefer to do it all myself.  Software settings are stored all over the Registry so just moving things from one PC to another doesn't work.  Laplink may just migrate simple things like Documents, though.  I don't store any user files in Documents, preferring my own locations on USB HDD's.  This keeps the Windows partition smaller and thus my daily backups smaller and quicker.  So, I don't have much to migrate.  And I prefer to reinstall everything on a new PC.  That way, I can find out what installs and doesn't, as there usually is something that won't work right, on a different PC.  I also have a lot of portable applications so I can just point shortcuts to them on my USB HDD's.  And my e-mail and web browser clients have options to load profiles from alternate locations, so I just install them and point them to the profile folders I have on my USB HDD's.

 

I generally don't buy extended warranties.  It rarely bites me in the ass, but 2 years ago, it did.  Half a year after the warranty expired on my previous 8930, it required replacing.  It's the only time I never bought an extended PC warranty that I ever had the need to take advantage of one.  Extended warranties are generally a waste of money.  Most repairs when needed will generally be within the warranty if a repair is required.  And most PC's last longer than extended warranties, but as I showed in my case, it's not always the case.  So, it's up to the user if they want to invest the money in an extended warranty.

Thanks again. Storing data on external HDDs sounds good, especially when large SSDs are getting cheaper and cheaper. I guess I was just trying to avoid the hassle of re-installation. I guess I could make an image of the new PC, try laplink and go back if it doesn't work. They say the migration can be file based or image based.

[dbminter]

USB SSD's are getting larger, but they're still relatively small compared to what you can get in a mechanical USB HDD.  I just recently upgraded my 14 TB model to 18, which the current consumer level cap.  And I believe SSD's may currently be capped at 2 TB and they're not as value priced per GB when compared to USB HDD's.  Still, for anything you want to transport, I'd use a USB SSD because you generally don't need to move large amounts of files.  And the SSD will be faster writing by a significant factor.  I have 2 1 TB Samsung T5 USB SSD's, 2 500 GB T5's, and 1 500 GB WD My Passport USB SSD.  I also have a 5 TB My Passport USB HDD because I needed something portable and with a capacity enough to store multiple disk images.  I also have multiple 512 and 256 GB thumb drives which I used to use before migrating to USB SSD's.

[dbminter]

BTW, if it helps, you might want to consider the kind of slim model BD burner I got as a reader:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785GPTX3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

It's a rebadged Pioneer.  I've not tested it thoroughly to see if works well as a writer, but I've got MCC DVD-R I can test it with.  Next time I need to burn a DVD-R, which should be within the next few days, I'll try to remember to test it out on this Pioneer.  If it works, you might want to try getting one yourself.  Of course, it is over $100, so if you don't need BD burning, then paying that much for it might be overkill.

 

[edwardBe]

1 hour ago, dbminter said:

BTW, if it helps, you might want to consider the kind of slim model BD burner I got as a reader:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785GPTX3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

It's a rebadged Pioneer.  I've not tested it thoroughly to see if works well as a writer, but I've got MCC DVD-R I can test it with.  Next time I need to burn a DVD-R, which should be within the next few days, I'll try to remember to test it out on this Pioneer.  If it works, you might want to try getting one yourself.  Of course, it is over $100, so if you don't need BD burning, then paying that much for it might be overkill.

 

Thanks. No, I don't as yet need to burn BDs. When I buy a new computer, I'm going to say good bye to optical drives forever, I hope other than playing my existing discs with an external player.

Edited February 28, 2022 by edwardBe

[dbminter]

Then, this might be more to your wants.  Although I've owned one, I didn't put it through heavy tests:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BY4PZLE/?coliid=I2H5WHEN45R5HS&colid=N0MFH3F0SXRP&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

It was also mostly for DVD and CD reading.

 

I get an internal slim BD included with my Dells, even though I mostly rely on external USB BD half height drives for most of my disc needs.

[edwardBe]

38 minutes ago, dbminter said:

Then, this might be more to your wants.  Although I've owned one, I didn't put it through heavy tests:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BY4PZLE/?coliid=I2H5WHEN45R5HS&colid=N0MFH3F0SXRP&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

It was also mostly for DVD and CD reading.

 

I get an internal slim BD included with my Dells, even though I mostly rely on external USB BD half height drives for most of my disc needs.

Thanks. I guess $40 isn't much, but I'm becoming superstitious about this whole thing in view of the fact that I didn't have problems previously with the same discs and the same burner as well as a different burner with the same discs. i ordered a commercial copy of the film, "Groundhog Day", for $5, so just for the heck of it, I will make a new ISO with DVDFab and see what happens when I try to burn it before I buy a new drive. Did you ever see "Poltergeist"? Maybe that's my problem? 😘

[dbminter]

Well, AZO discs are essentially the same as MCC's.

[dbminter]

Just as a baseline, I got around to burning an MCC DVD-R in that Pioneer USB BD slim model from Verbatim.  It completed and Verified without errors.  For what it's worth, I've yet to do a playback compatibility test.

[dbminter]

As another baseline, the DVD Video I burned to MCC DVD-R in the above slim Pioneer passed playback test in a PS3.

[edwardBe]

Thanks. I bought a commercial copy of the film and DVDFab was unable to burn a DVD-R disc. I didn't bother with trying it with ImgBurn, since I had the same problem with it as DVDFab. I remain mystified. I guess perhaps I should at least try the Verbatim drive, but I have already tried two different drives. Perhaps it is something in my computer since that is the other thing that is the same more or less as the discs and the file, although as I said, my previous computer also had no problems with this batch of discs.