LIGHTNING UK!

Ok but obviously you're going to run into problems when anything tries to play that file it kept erroring out on... it's corrupt.

Don't, you'll make me blush Does kprobe work with your ASUS drive? If so, scan one of the DL discs you've burnt (scan at 4x) and see what it looks like.

No, you should be using MKM-003-00.

The drives have a default behaviour/configuration. You're modifying the behaviour/configuration and it's causing problems. Stop modifying it. Seems pretty simple to me?

Use the recommended MKM-003-00 media. That's what those drives have been designed to use (and tested with) when overburning DVD+R DL media. It's just luck if other discs work.

As you can see from here... http://www.t10.org/lists/asc-num.htm#ASC_08# 'ASC: 08' is some sort of communication issue. That's why I mentioned changing the SATA cable in my first post - and you said you've now done that. Your 'Family Tree' info tells me you have an NVidia chipset on your motherboard - I'm not a fan of anything other than Intel myself... too many issues with the others! You could try uninstalling the NVidia driver for your sata controller and putting it back on the standard Microsoft one. Alternatively, see if you can find a newer one on the NVidia site.

You should be leaving the drive to performs as many retries as it wants to by default (i.e. after it has been switched on for the first time). By messing with that setting, you're changing how the drive does its job. Discs will always have errors on them (you'll never get a perfect disc/burn) but the drive's internal error correction routines get around all that. It would appear yours is unable to do so once you've messed with the 'set hardware retries' option and that's when you (as a 'user') start seeing errors being reported.

Your drive seems unable to read the disc. Is it dirty / scratched?

The conversion shouldn't take any time at all. It's all done on the fly as it reads the sectors from the disc. If it isn't making steady progress (a read speed of 8x or whatever), it's probably stuck somewhere.

Post a screenshot please. Post the contents of the Log window too. Oh and if the program defaults to .BIN, you should leave it as .BIN. Your source disc probably has 'Mode 2' tracks and ISO isn't the right file type for that kind of data.

'somewhere on the internet' is wrong. Leave it set on 'Calculate Optimal' and let the program read the correct value from the .DVD file.

That makes no sense. If the program isn't using Immediate I/O, the sync cache command must either succeed or fail before it can proceed with whatever's next. You shouldn't have the ability to 'abort' anything once the command has been sent as ImgBurn is then just forced to sit waiting.

You aren't turning it off (so to speak), you just aren't modifying the drive's default behaviour. It won't do a thing to the burn, just how the drive behaves when reading back the disc. Have you bought some Verbatim 8x 'MKM-003-00' discs now? They're the only ones you should be using.

Why are you touching the layerbreak stuff at all? The correct value is read from the .DVD file. Just leave the setting on 'Calculate Optimal'. If you have no idea of what you're doing, read one of the guides floating around on the Internet for that kind of thing. At the moment, you're trying to overburn on discs that aren't recommended for use when overburning. Buy the 'MKM-003-00' ones that everyone / where tells you to (not 'RITEK-S04-00' as you've got there).

Are they Verbatim discs? You shouldn't really be having issues with those. Have you tried all of the speeds your drive claims to support on that MID? If you have any other spindles of discs, try one from one of those instead. If the discs you're using are different enough from what the firmware has been tweaked for ('MCC 03RG20' MID wise), you may have more luck if you enable the 'Perform OPC Before Write' option in the Settings (on the 'Write' tab). P.S. Your forum email address is no longer valid/working. Update it if you want topic subscriptions/notifications to work - otherwise I'll wipe them all out.

The same as any other image file. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?/topic/61-how-to-write-an-image-file-to-a-disc-using-imgburn/

Now go through the other discs you've burnt that image to and see where they error out during verification. It shouldn't make a difference what you burn to the discs, it's not like the drive knows and can be selective as to what it burns successfully or not. As far as I'm concerned, your drive hasn't reported a single error during the write phase - so it doesn't think anything has gone wrong with the burn. If the disc is then unreadable, there's some issue between the drive and the media. Can I assume that you're saying you think it's only burning a bit of the disc because the colour of the dye isn't uniform over the entire surface? You're going to have to waste some more discs and do some more tests. Ideally I'd like to see a 'Discovery' mode burn + verify. That'll burn zeros to the entire disc and will soon tell us (me) if the issue is a general one or not.

You're in Write mode, go into Verify mode. You're going to be doing this verify operation as a standalone task - as you're doing it after the fact. Leaving the 'Verify' checkbox ticked in 'Write' mode is enough to at least have the program verify the disc automatically next time you burn one.

It's easier if you just copy + paste the text rather than posting a screenshot. You appear to have turned the Verify option off... I need to see the results of the verify process too. Put the disc back in the drive, go into Verify mode and compare it against that same image file. If it all comes back ok, there's nothing wrong with the burn. If your Wii can't read it, that's its problem I'm afraid. You shouldn't need to change the 'Write Type' to 'Incremental'. Put it back on 'DAO/SAO'.

Please post the log of you burning + verifying such a disc... as per the pink box up the top

Ah that's a shame, no native IDE port on that board so you're forced to use the 3rd party Marvell one. That may well be why the program isn't getting proper response codes (sense data) back from the drive. Do you have an option in your BIOS to switch that Marvell controller into AHCI mode? I'm wondering if it might behave differently somehow.

Load the program, go into 'Write' mode, right click the drive drop down selection box and select 'Family Tree'. Close the prompt that comes up and then copy + paste everything from the Log window again for me please.

You have to tick/mark/check it.

Boot into safe mode and see if you still get an error with the reason as 'No Additional Sense Information'.

I run 10.8 on Win 7 x64, so I know it works fine. It could be that you need v11+ for your 7 series chipset though. My board is a 6 series. The driver disks are for when you load additional drivers via the F6 key during the OS installation process. They do not apply to you. Go back to 12.9 and try safe mode. Make sure you've installed the latest bios for your motherboard too.