LIGHTNING UK!

All I can say is... Ditch the cheapo 'Daxon' discs and buy some decent ones! Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden. If you must use what you've got, try burning at 8x instead of MAX.

Can you post the log from the successful read? In theory, both drives should have seen the disc as being the same size!

xbox specific chat doesn't belong on this forum, so watch what you say or I'll just delete it without further warning. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=12200

That'll be where the word 'consistent' (used in my previous post) comes in. See here... it took me 12 attempts to get decent results. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=18871&st=0&p=136519&&do=findComment&comment=136519

Ok well in my tests, I had much better and more consistent burns once I'd enabled 'Force HyperTuning' in the Drive's Advanced Settings (or the eeprom tool). You should be fine to burn at 4x too. That log contains no verify info so I can't tell if the disc was even readable in the drive that just burnt it.

There isn't much I can say! Your drive is erroring out as it tries to burn to the disc and I have no control over that, all I do is send it data to burn. CloneCD always issues the command to perform OPC before it starts to send the commands to write the data, you could try enabling 'Perform OPC Before Write' in the settings (on the 'Write' tab) to see if that makes any difference. Beyond that, this applies... http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

DVDFab is company and no doubt just found another company they could buy the product from (or get to build it to their specs). I have no interest in doing that kind of thing, nor the knowledge to do so.

Old logs can be found via the 'Help' menu.

Is the disc dirty/scratched? I see that it's a disc which has been burnt rather than anything else. Unfortunately it's not a decent quality disc and so I've no idea what the burn quality was like at the time of burning, let alone now. If you have access to any other computers / drives, try reading it in one of those instead. Some are better at reading bad discs than others. Otherwise, you're pretty much out of luck. If you have a few days to spare, you could try running 'IsoPuzzle' on it and just leave it going until it's finished / given up / the drive starts smoking.

Sure, and whilst I'm at it I'll set about designing the next rocket to take us to the moon.

I still need to see the log. iHAS drives and overburning isn't an exact science.

I'll get a medal in the post to you asap.

The only option this person has is 2.4x and obviously as that's the only option, they're already using it. Please don't comment unless you actually know what you're talking about, you'll only confuse people.

We don't have any discussion on anything like that (related to copy protection) on this forum.

Post a log please of you burning + verifying one of the problem discs. If it does both of those bits ok, the rest it beyond the scope of ImgBurn and this forum.

Boot into safe mode?

It doesn't belong on this forum so I removed it.

Sorry, I don't release details until it's actually out. And it's out when it's out. I can tell you that it's mainly tweaks and fixes though. There's nothing major new in it.

The write errored out with the error - 'W 01:26:01 Failed to Write Sectors 2092320 - 2092351 - Reason: The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error.' So some sort of error occurred but the real error may have been lost because that's a Windows error and not a drive one. Windows errors sometimes occur due to the drivers installed for the controller the drive is attached to. Please right click on the drive selection box when you're in Write mode and pick 'Family Tree'. Close the prompt that pops up and copy + paste everything from the Log window.

I could, yes. Will I? Who knows.

Yup, that's exactly what you do and how bootable discs work The boot image is stored in it's own little 'El Torito' area on the disc (which, to be fair, can be any size you like). The *normal* data files are visible on the bootable disc like they are on any other disc, it's just the boot image itself (and contents of it) that aren't visible. That's why the boot image needs to load CD-ROM drivers. They're what gives you access to all the *normal* stuff on the disc. For what seems to be a fairly generic boot disc for CDs, you could try here... http://www.nu2.nu/bootdisk/cdrom/ or here http://educ.jmu.edu/~jarvislb/utils/boot_cd.html Back when I made my bootable USB stick (many moons ago), I used some HP tool for the job. Google 'hp dos bootable usb' and you'll get a ton of results, one of which I'm sure will be of some use to you

Your drive is having trouble writing to the discs and is reporting a 'Write Error' when it attempts to do so. Try another spindle of discs. Try cleaning the drive with a cleaning disc. If all else fails, use/buy another drive.

Please post the log - as per the pink box up the top

That sounds like it would be a copy protected disc... which would explain why ImgBurn won't read it. Next time, please post more detail - as per the instructions in the pink box up the top. Saying something won't work in a single line isn't enough for anyone to give you any sort of decent advice.

The 'Max' values still look a little high to me. Look at 'Results/Scans 8' onwards in this post... http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=18871&st=0&p=136519&&do=findComment&comment=136519 A PIE Max of 30 and PIF Max of 3 is obviously loads better. Results/Scans 12 is quite magical.