dbminter

You can write any data to any recordable disc. For specific use purposes, the data has to be compliant for that purpose. For instance, you can write a VIDEO_TS that plays fine to a DVD, but if you don't put that VIDEO_TS in the root directory, it won't play on a DVD player. You can have a VIDEO_TS folder in the root directory, but if it doesn't have compliant VIDEO_TS.IFO, it won't play on a DVD player. So, you can write anything to a BD-R. But, unless it's Blu-Ray Video compliant, it won't play on a standard Blu-Ray player.

I've never created a Blu-Ray Video disc from scratch, so I've no idea. I've only created Blu-Ray Video from existing Blu-Ray Video contents. I've no idea how tsMuxer works, so I can't help. What I can say is whatever the cause is, the files you're using to create the resulting disc are not Blu-Ray Video compliant. That's why they're playing in VLC but not on a Blu-Ray standalone player.

I never encountered any fatal problems with the WH16NS60, unlike the NS40. Pioneer's are not good to go out of the box. For 10 years, they've had a firmware problem they refuse to fix, despite my attempts to tell them with each new drive and firmware update release that does not fix it. They do not write properly to 8x DVD+RW media. They will always fail Verify. The 213 model had a promising start. It did address this issue, but did not write properly to CD-R and DVD+R DL. By the time they addressed those 2 issues, they REINTRODUCED the DVD+RW bork!

Two reasons. 1.) your particular ASUS drive has a fault in it. 2.) the ASUS drive simply isn't a good model to use. I would lean toward #2. I know that ASUS model does not write properly to DVD+R DL. It always fails Verify. I never tried the discs that failed in another drive and manually performed a Verify on those. That ASUS model never did work right from day 1. Initially, it destroyed DVD+RW and BD-RE rewritable discs.

I don't have Nero. And it's not printed on my Verbatim USB BD burner's box. Don't have easy access to my Verbatim USB DVD burner's box to look at right now.

I have a Verbatim USB DVD and a Verbatim USB Blu-Ray drive, but I've no idea how I'd find out what kind of buffer underrun technology they use, though. BTW, the two Verbatim drives I have are actually rebadged Pioneer drives.

ImgBurn has not had a perfect history with reading and writing PS 1 games. That's because they're a finicky beast. Some of them have multiple tracks. Some don't. Some will read in ImgBurn; some won't. Some are Mixed Mode CD's, a combination of audio CD tracks and a data track. As for what I would try next, I would say try something other than ImgBurn. I would download and install the free version of Alcohol 52%. Something I would make you aware of, though it probably won't matter for the specific error correction issue here, is you should avoid CMC Magnetics discs whenever possible. They make the worst discs in the world; ironically, they also own Verbatim which releases some of the best. (Though Verbatim farms those out to Mitsubishi.) About half the issues reported here are caused by CMC trash discs.

Since I live in the US, I can't directly speak on the situation as it pertains to England. I'm just going by what I've seen posted from other users here who are in Europe.

Okay, I took at a look at the directory and file structure of a Blu-Ray Video Disc. .m2ts is actually the audio and video container. So, just putting a .m2ts file in the root directory of a BD won't cause it to play on a Blu-Ray player. The reason VLC works is because it is designed to play .m2ts files natively, which a standalone Blu-Ray player won't. .m2ts files need to be in the STREAM subfolder of the BDMV folder in the root directory. However, just moving the 00000.m2ts file there won't cause it to play on a standalone Blu-Ray player. You need to create a compliant Blu-Ray Video disc from that .m2ts file in order for it to play on a standalone Blu-Ray player.

Yeah, it makes sense that the CMC LTH discs would be problematic. CMC makes the worst optical discs out there when it comes to organic dye media like DVD and LTH BD-R. CMC also, ironically, owns Verbatim. And Verbatim is not above using CMC trash media to maximize profits. But, Verbatim also farms out to Mitsubishi which makes the best DVD's out there and they make their own HTL BD-R which are high quality. I don't know for sure, but I think MediaRange discs when it comes to DVD's have been cheap stuff that doesn't last long.

You should avoid the LTH discs whenever possible. They are an inferior technology. They used co-opted DVD production lines. LTH uses organic dyes like DVD's do so they won't last as long as HTL BD-R, which use metal oxides. LTH also have higher incompatibility rates with hardware.

I am nowhere near as knowledgeable on Blu-Rays as I am on DVD's. But, you said there's an .m2ts file in the root directory of the BD? I thought that file had to be in the BDMV folder on a Blu-Ray. Though, I'm not sure. I can see the problem possibly on the LG drive as all LG BD models before the WH16NS60 did not properly burn DL BD discs, but they generally fail Verifies so you know they failed. That wouldn't explain the same results on a Pioneer, though.

If you want to make an ISO of a thumb drive, you might want to look into a free application called Rufus. I know it burns ISO's to thumb drives, but it may also create ISO images of thumb drives. I'm not entirely sure as I only use it to write bootable ISO's to thumb drives.

That's a good point I overlooked. Are you talking about disc drives that are connected by USB or thumb flash drives/USB HDD's/USB SSD's? As LUK pointed out, ImgBurn only works on discs.

First step is to make sure the USB drive(s) are visible under Windows/File Explorer. If they are, insert a disc into the USB drive and make sure Windows/File Explorer recognizes that a disc is inserted. If the above step passes, try changing the I/O driver in ImgBurn. Under Tools --> Settings --> I/O --> Page 1 --> Interface, there's a list of radio buttons for different I/O drivers to try. Try changing to each one one at a time. As you change the driver, exit ImgBurn and restart it just to be sure. If you find an interface that recognizes your devices, stick with that one. Other than that, I don't think I have anything.

Since you're new to the DVD world as you say, you may not know there are 2 kinds of writable DVD's. One is write once and one is write many. If you write to a write once media like DVD-R or DVD+R, you can't write to it again or erase anything from it. DVD-RW and DVD+RW can be rewritten to many times. DVD-RAM is also write many, but it's a relatively niche area.

I generally don't take buffer fluctuations into account. My LG drive buffers up and down and I've not had an issue with it in like 10 years. I really don't know how to read the graphs. I never pay attention to those.

HL-DT-ST ID string means it's a LG brand DVD burner. Unfortunately, I can't be any more specific about the questions you asked than what I've already said.

The drive is not writing properly to that media. Notice all the empty sector warnings on Verify. And it's most likely not a read error as you tried playing this disc back and you get problems. Did you try playing this disc in a drive other than the one you burned it on/tried Verifying on? If you still got errors, then it's the drive not properly writing to the media. What can you do? Two things basically. First, try seeing if there's a firmware update to the drive that might resolve issues writing to that kind of media. In Write mode, right click on the target drive and choose the firmware update option near the bottom of the context menu that appears. Second: replace the drive. It's either dead/dying or its firmware needs updating. If there's no firmware update, there's no need to use that drive.

Yeah, I think it might be worth trying a Verbatim BD-R and see if you get the same results. If you just burn one, you can tell if you get a complete Verify. If you don't, I would say it's something buried in the hardware changes here. I'd be a bit inclined to blame the SATA to IDE bridge.

Oh, forgot something. Operations that suddenly drop to 0x, don't do anything, and the software can't recover, e.g. waiting for read threads, are common with external drives that fail an operation. In this case, a read operation for Verify. Reads that behave this way are generally the result of failed Verifies, being unable to read the burned data back from the disc. However, in this case, manual Verify seems to work on another drive, so the problem is somewhere in that particular hardware regarding reads.

Unfortunately in your case, it's probably hard to say much of anything. This rig you've made is some kind of Frankenstein type affair, if memory serves me correctly. Parts from different manufacturers and a specialized firmware. In that kind of scenario, it's hard to say what might cause an issue. One thing that might cause a problem is the RITEK media. I've never used anything other than VERBAT-IM BD-R SL so I can't say what quality the RITEK media would be. As for the read speed, unfortunately, it really is down to the drive itself as to what it will or won't do. It may say I'll read at X max speed but not get nowhere near that.

Printing labels sounds out of ImgBurn's purview. It's intended to create and burn images, primarily. I doubt LUK even considered trying to get it to print labels to capable hardware. I know ImgBurn didn't support burning LightScribe labels to discs back when they were a thing.

Okay, you're not using the CMC discs. I 10:30:47 Destination Media Type: DVD+R DL (Disc ID: MKM-001-00) MKM is Mitsubishi, which is the only quality manufacturer of DVD+R DL out there. So, your best bet at this point is try writing at a lower speed, like you suggested. But, be aware the drive itself makes the ultimate decision on how slow it will write. So, even though the media may be rated for 2.4x, a drive may burn higher and you can't lower that speed. ImgBurn will attempt to send the proper desired slower burn rate, but the drive may not necessarily honor it. If that doesn't work, try seeing if there's a firmware update for your drive that might have a better, more compatible write strategy for it and that MKM branded media. In Write mode, right click on the drive from the burner list and choose the last option in the context menu, something like Check for firmware update. If there is an update, try applying it and see if you get better results. If that still doesn't work, your only other real option is replace your burner with something else that won't complain about that media. Write failures are rarely the cause of software errors or Windows configuration issues. They're generally drive and media compatibility related. So, that's why you want to avoid the junk media whenever possible to give your burn the best likelihood of success.

You say you're burning a DVD+R DL but there's nothing in those logs that shows you're burning a DVD+R DL. I was looking for a DVD+R DL failure to get the DID/MID to see if it was another CMC Mag disc, which it will be most likely if you bought them from a brick and mortar store. So, I couldn't tell you anything for certain.