dbminter

When you rip a CD to an MP3 with something like say Windows Media Player, the software populates the fields of Artist, Title, etc. If you have a CD with no available track information, you get things like Track 01 for a Title. So, I was wondering if there was software available to load an MP3 so you can edit these fields. Freeware, of course. Thanks!

I need software that will convert DVD Video to Video For Windows compatible container files that VirtualDub can edit. Freemake is not an option as it creates Windows Media Player codec containers that VirtualDub cannot edit. Preferably freeware. Thanks!

Actually, turns out I already had one installed! Pazera Audio Extractor.

I need some software that will extract the audio from an AVI file to a .WAV or .MP3 or some format I can convert to .MP3. Preferably freeware. Any recommendations? Thanks!

Yeah, I turned it on because I discovered by trial and error that .CCD is supported for mounting by Virtual CloneDrive. Although I don't think you can double click on .CCD files if you have VCD installed like I do but not CloneCD.

When ImgBurn creates an image of an audio CD, 3 files are created. The .cue and .cdd files and the .img file itself. When going to burn this CD image, which file should be opened in ImgBurn? I believe the .CDD is for CloneCD loading, right? So, I'm guessing it's the .cue file.

Let's say I have a data DVD. It's just data, not a movie DVD that needs decrypting before VIDEO_TS can be copied. Which is faster? Copying and pasting the root directory containing the contents to my HD or reading the disc to an image file in ImgBurn? If I had to make a guess, I'd say the image reading would take slightly longer.

Well, I'm torn. My memory tells me that TDK is a good DVD, but that's only going by memory. Ridata is Ritek which I've had only a few issues with. However, Europeans report problems with Ridata media. So, I don't know what Brazilians are likely to get. Plus, who's to say TDK hasn't switched to CMC since I last encountered a TDK DVD? I'm more familiar with Ritek so I'd probably try the Ridata first. However, who's to say Ridata didn't farm out to CMC for the Brazilian market.

Never heard of Smartbuy or Nipponic, so I'd be wary of them. I think, but I can't back this up with experience, that Phillips uses CMC for its DVD media. Ridata is Ritek, a good 2nd tier manufacturer from my experience, but some in Europe say Ridata is poor quality. TDK used to make a good CD-R and I think I've had a few of their DVD's, but I can't be sure. TDK also makes Verbatim's BD-RE DL but uses CMC for its own BD-RE's! The sad fact of the matter is, where you live, you're most likely only going to know by buying some, inserting a disc into a drive, and use ImgBurn to check the MID/DID string. If I had to make the decision, I'd limit my field to TDK and Ridata. I've had more expierence with Ridata than TDK but I believe TDK makes a good DVD. I just don't know for sure.

I had a LiteOne drive, I think it was, that had some sort of internal counter of how many times it burned a disc. However, my tests with the feature didn't actually show it WAS keeping an accurate count!

I haven't used any other site except Amazon.com to get my media since about 2004. So, I can't say. I've not heard of billet banking either. From the JPG, I can only relate that it looks like a Western Union form of payment. Where you electronically send cash. I doubt Amazon.com accepts that as a form of payment. I Googled billet banking and got only questions asking if it was accepted for various services as payment. I got a few Brazil hits so it's apparently fairly common in Brazil? I searched wikipedia too and there was no page devoted directly to billet banking. So, without knowing what it is, I can't say.

The only site I get my media from is Amazon.com in the United States. I don't know if they accept bank slips as I don't know what those are. And I don't know if they ship internationally or not. Go by their web site and contact customer service. Amazon.com has DataLifePlus Verbatim DVD-R and Taiyo Yuden DVD-R.

Well, it's not that they're fake Verbatim. Verbatim just bought them from CMC and put their label on them. It's not uncommon. Most media manufacturers don't make their own media. Sony used to make it's own DVD-R and then farmed them out to Ritek. Verbatim itself, I think, doesn't make its own media except for its BD-R. They farm out to Mitsubishi or CMC. As I said I'd not buy them. Of course, you're always welcome to buy them, check the MID, and try to return them if they're CMC if you want. I generally return my CMC media and haven't had problems returning them to Amazon.com or Office Depot. I didn't return those last BD-RE's because I only spent $18 total and by the time I paid return shipping, it wouldn't be worth it for the little I'd get back. I don't know anything about where you could buy them in Brazil, sorry. But, I did Google Amazon.com Brazil and found this: However, from what little I know of what the Brazilian language would be, this site doesn't appear to offer electronics. Just books and Kindle.

No, I would not buy those. I'm pretty sure my experience in the past has been that packaging in the United States has CMC media. I believe that's one of the packaging you find in brick and mortar stores and all brick and mortar store Verbatim media is CMC. Even if it says Mitsubishi Kagaku Media on the package, it's not guaranteed to be Mitsubishi. I just yesterday received some MKM labeled on the package Verbatim BD-RE's that were, yes, you guessed it, CMC! I immediately posted a DO NOT BUY review on Amazon.com.

Never heard of MAM-A or Videolar. Now, some of these brands I've never heard of may because they're Brazilian. They may be local companies who got their DVD's from someone else and put their label on them. If I had to harbor a guess, if I've never heard of them, their quality can't be on par with Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden. Some unknown company won't be willing to pump money into a quality product. They won't farm out to a quality manufacturer either. I'd say they're cheap companies looking to make a higher profit margin on cheaper media.

I think Prodisc had a bad history in terms of the quality of their DVD's. I'm only going on memory, though, as I can't recall if I ever encountered a Prodisc before. Optodisc still makes media. However, I will never buy another of their products because I know they've used CMC in the past and who is to say they still don't or won't go back to them in the future. They burned their bridges with me when I spent $1,000 over their switch to CMC! Most likely what happened is they lost their good reputation with buyers and people stopped buying. So, online retailers generally stopped carrying their products because no one was buying them. Plus, manufacturers go out business. Simply put, the cheaper makers like CMC can outbid others because their products are junk. And the companies who put their name on the label generally only care about the profit margin, not supplying a quality product. COUGH MEMOREX COUGH. Amazon.com still has some Optodisc media under the Acro brand. But only mini DVD-R, DVD-RW, DVD+RW, and DVD-RAM. There's an OptodiscAmerica website where you can order media directly from them. I wouldn't recommend it, though!

Yes, Optodisc actually made by Optodisc up until around 2004 was good. I've got 11 and 12 year old OPTODISCK MID's that are still playable today. CMC Optodisc's wouldn't even complete a burn 50% of the time. Never heard of Smartbuy, sorry.

Wow, you're one of the fastest repliers I've seen here. You're about as fast as I am! That means the drive always supported mDisc. Why it wouldn't have firmware to write to mDisc BEFORE it was shipped out is beyond me. Sounds suspicious to me. Let's just say it's true that a firmware update will enable your drive to write to mDisc. ImgBurn still won't need an update to write to mDisc. Optodisc used to make its own media before switching to CMC and Lead Data, another cheap manufacturer. As for Ritek reliability, I can still only relate my experience. I've come across some Maxell DVD-R's that were Riteks that I burned 9 years ago and they're still readable. In fact, I know this as recently as Saturday when I played a Maxell Ritek DVD-R burned in 2006. Again I consider Ritek a good 2nd tier quality DVD. Europeans report lower quality results with Ritek.

A firmware update will not enable a drive that did not support mDisc to support mDisc. It's hardware based, not software based. HP got in big trouble in 2003 for claiming their DVD+R only capable drive could be made DVD+RW capable with a firmware update. It simply can't be done that way. The hardware has to support it before the firmware can. Again ImgBurn just sends write commands to the drive. As long as the drive supports mDisc, ImgBurn will burn data to them because the drive itself carries out the necessary hardware functions to perform the write. I don't know how long any particular DVD media can last after burning. When DVD recordable first came out, they said it would last 100 years. However, a decade of tests later shows you will probably get less than half of that. It's hard to say because we've only had like 13 years of recordable DVD media to test with in the field. I found some TDK CD-R's I burned 10 years ago. Ritek made them. Now, my experience with Ritek media has been it's a good 2nd tier DVD manufacturer. However, in Europe, Ritek seems to be of lower quality. So, I'd say Ritek probably makes TDK's DVD's, but that's not necessarily so just because Ritek made their CD-R's 10 years ago. Companies often switch manufacturers to save money, like Optodisc did switching to CMC. Ruined their reputation with me and I'll NEVER buy another Optodisc product.

ImgBurn does not need an update to burn mDisc. Your drive must support mDisc. If it does, it will have the mDisc logo on its front, usually. My LG supports mDisc. ImgBurn will write to mDisc according to mDisc's FAQ site. But, I told you that already. As for long any media lasts, I can only tell you that cheap media like Prodisc last less than a year. For a comparison, I can only offer my DVD+R DL from Verbatim made by Mitsubishi I burned back in 2009 are still readable. I don't recall much information on TDK DVD. I can relate their CD and BD from personal experience. I had TDK CD-R that seemed to be pretty good. I have some I burned 10 years ago that are still readable. TDK makes Japanese packaging Verbatim BD-RE DL that I had no problems with. However, TDK pulls a Verbatim in that they farm out their inkjet printable BD-RE to CMC! Yet, I didn't have a problem with those BD-RE's. But, who's to say CMC BD-RE media will last? In fact, a follow up to my review on Amazon.com had one purchaser who said his only wrote twice before dying!

As I said, the only ones I had heard of before were Philips and Emtec. Philips I believe had a reputation for poor quality media so I'd guess any Blu-Ray they make would be CMC. Emtec I also believe has a bad reputation for DVD so their Blu-Ray would probably be CMC. If you go back to my previous posts, there was some quoted text that contained a link to reviews of Blu-Ray media quality. Those brands you mentioned might be reviewed in that link, so you might want to check it out. Actually, I just looked for you. You can thank me later. http://blog.consumerpla.net/2011/01/best-blank-blu-ray-media-review-guide.html The best brand in the world is subjective, of course. I had no problems with the Taiyo Yuden media I came across and the author of ImgBurn and several other ISF Gods here also recommend the use of Taiyo Yuden. So, it's definitely one of the best brands in the world. I believe Verbatim is the best brand in the world simply because it was recommended to me years ago by LUK to try it and I've had little problems with them. You should definitely have little problem with TY, but I've only ever bought their CD-R's, which were good quality. So, for direct experience, I can't offer any relation. I don't know anything about the reflective layers of Blu-Ray in terms of their composition. So, I don't know if they oxidize on contact with oxygen.

Are you talking Blu-Ray? Either way, I've got one answer for all of them. Multilaser: Never heard of them. Philips: Probably CMC as their DVD seems to be CMC. Nipponic: Never heard of them. Emtec: I believe they have a very poor DVD record, so probably CMC. Maxprint: Never heard of them. If you're not looking for CD-R, then I don't have much direct, recent experience with Taiyo Yuden DVD-R. I've come across a few of them over the years. And Taiyo Yuden is recommended along with Verbatim by the author of ImgBurn and several other users. So, I've also come to recommend TY based on their recommendations and Verbatim based on my own personal usage.

I don't know anything about the composition of the reflective layer. I couldn't tell you whether it's organic or inorganic. However, if I had to harbor a guess, I'd say that a reflective layer wouldn't be organic. I can't think of a reason why it would have to be. But, I can't say for certain as I don't know. I don't know about Brazil but in the US, if it doesn't say LTH it's HTL. And LTH must say LTH on the package. You could try contacting Amazon.com and see if they offer international shipping. I don't know otherwise how you might get them imported. If you can get them from Amazon.com, I can give you links to the discs I've bought before with good MID's. I've only used Taiyo Yuden CD-R's as far as I know. My DVD-R needs I get from Verbatim. Actually, I recall having seen TY MID's before on discs I've used in the past.

HTL is High To Low and LTH is Low To High. The names refer to the kind of reflectivity the discs offer. I'm not entirely sure what the difference in the reflectivity means. I'd guess by the use of the term reflectivity, the upshot would be that one has a better compatibility with players. The reflectivity of a disc is often times the primary concern in how well a burner will handle a disc or a player will read one. There is one other difference between HTL and LTH. HTL means factories designed specifically to produce Blu-Rays. LTH uses a process that converts CD and DVD factories to create Blu-Ray. So, LTH, I would guess, uses organic dye. LTH results in cheaper production costs but LTH media is problematic in drives and players that were made before LTH was created. HTL I believe uses a layer of inorganic zinc and copper alloy. LTH, I believe, is the one that uses an organic dye. As far as I know, the reflectivity is not related to whether a dye is organic or not. The reflectivity should be on the surface of the disc. However, I don't know for this sure. Physical properties of media are not my forte. All manufacturers of Blu-Ray used HTL before the creation of LTH, naturally. After the introduction of LTH, I know that the Memorex and Verbatim BD-R's I've used are HTL. The only BD-R's I use now, the Verbatim, are HTL. It's easy to tell if your discs are LTH because the packaging for LTH must be labeled as LTH.

From what I quoted, it seems the inorganic dye used in HTL BD-R is some kind of zinc and copper alloy. The laser melts the metals into pips that are interpreted as 1's and 0's. As with CD and DVD, there are many kinds of dye manufacturers for Blu-Ray. Yes, CMC makes Blu-Ray, unfortunately! Ritek makes them. TDK does. And Verbatim can make its own, or maybe Mitsubishi makes it for them. The Verbatim BD-R's MID has VERBAT in it, so I don't know if that means Verbatim itself makes them or if Mitsubisihi made it for them. I don't know anything about the physical science of the layers in a multi-layer Blu-Ray. I only know that there are no layer breaks like in DVD+-R DL. When the burn reaches the end of one layer, it just starts burning to the next one. I would have to say since there are multiple layers in BD-R DL and BD-R XL that would imply they're stacked on top of each other like in DVD+-R DL.