dbminter

Are you asking if ImgBurn works on Windows 11? I can verify it does. I've been using ImgBurn on Windows 11 ever since Windows 11 came out.

If you just have the folder structures, you'll need Build mode. ImgBurn will automatically make all necessary adjustments based on the video format type of the folders added in Build mode. For instance, if you add a VIDEO_TS folder, ImgBurn is smart enough to make all necessary adjustments for DVD Video.

I've never used it, but the company that makes my container to DVD converter, ConvertXToDVD, has something called ConvertXToHD. It can convert MP4's and other video containers to Blu-Ray and to other container formats. It's not freeware, though, but it should have a 7 day free trial to give it a throw with. I don't think it can create ISO's, but it can create the folder structures necessary for ImgBurn to make a BD Video out of and ISO's itself.

I use BD-R even for DVD and CD sized data backups. BD-R is metal oxides that are burned, so they will last much longer than the organic dyes used in CD and DVD. And with BD-R being less than $1 each when bought in bulks of 50 from Amazon.com, I don't mind paying a little extra for the longer shelf life.

Firewall and Defender tweaks won't do anything to help here. I have to wonder if your device even supports DVD-R. It's listed as a DVD-RAM device. I know my first DVD-R burner in 2002 wrote DVD-R and DVD-RAM but I couldn't find any specific information on UJ8A7AS. Unfortunately, error code 0x80004005 is basically when Windows doesn't know what the Hell went wrong. It's a junk error code. I found at least 9 different instances where it can pop up via a web search; none were related to optical discs. I would have to question the burner itself. It seems to be really old as I could find no dedicated hardware page for it. What I would do in your case is get a USB external burner. Easy to set up. Just plug it in and see if it works. Given you're apparently getting the same error from ImgBurn regardless of .CUE or .ISO as a source, I would say it's something to do with your DVD-RAM device. Plus, given that even Windows won't properly write to it, that also seems the culprit is the DVD-RAM burner, in some capacity or another.

Yes, no actual writing was done and I think that's because you're trying to burn a BIN/CUE to a CD-R. What is the file size of the BIN (I'm guessing it's a BIN.) you're trying to burn? If it's like 800 MB or so or less, then it's a CD image and you should try a CD-R. If it's like 1 GB or more, then it's definitely an image set that needs a DVD. At this point, I'd try burning to a CD-R or CD-RW and see what happens. Then proceed from there.

I'm not entirely sure why you're trying to burn a .CUE file to a DVD-R. .CUE files are expressly for CD burning. In fact, I don't think you can even write a .BIN/CUE to a DVD-R. They're expressly for CD-R. That may be why it's not working, but I'd like to take a look at the Log file that generated that Invalid field in CDB to check for other things. Under Help, choose the ImgBurn log option. Open the .LOG file and find the portion containing the failed burn. Copy and paste the entire portion of that log to a post here so I can look at it.

Yeah, I've never heard of it, but, most likely, it's some established optical company's drive in a rebadged model. For instance, Verbatim's own USB BD burners are made by Pioneer.

That goes back to what I said about the Disc ID. The same Disc ID is used for Verbatim BD-25 and BD-50 recordable discs. If you're using BD-R DL, that probably explains it. BD-R DL writing, in general, is kind of a crap shoot. If you want my recommendation, the best of the worst, as they all have some kind of flaw, is the LG WH16NS60. NOT the NS40. The NS40 will fail 9 times out of 10 to write to DL BD media. The NS60 appears to work okay on BD-RE DL I tested from Verbatim. But, you most likely don't have a free half height bay in your PC. So, you'll need a USB 3.0 enclosure. I recommend the VanTech Generation 1. The Generation 2 works to an extent, but you CANNOT update the firmware of the NS60 in one. You can in the Generation 1. But, finding the Gen 1 is a problem. I do not recommend the other option, Other World Computing's enclosure, because if you power it off or it encounters an error where the power must be cycled, the drive will NOT be detected again by Windows until you restart the PC.

Pioneer's have been problematic over the last few years. Your BD-R appears to be quality Verbatim media, but the same Disc ID does appear across different Verbatim BD-R. So, it's a bit difficult to determine what exactly you're using. At this point, I think the best bet is to try a different drive. Preferably from a different manufacturer and a different model. A USB drive would be easiest to install and test with, but most USB's are slim models, which are just generally problematic.

Actually, I did not know what an SACD was and having looked it up, it may not be possible to copy those with ImgBurn. Super Audio CD may actually be a DVD format. So, it should be possible to copy those. I really shouldn't say they can't be copied. I worry if a copy can be played in a standalone SACD player. I doubt they were designed to reflect recordable media in mind since the hardware preceded the recordable DVD format. And there was mention of something called a Hybrid Disc which appears to have a CD and a DVD layer. I doubt those could be copied.

Yeah, it's hard to make an apples to apples comparison. You're using two different disc formats. Most likely, it's just a particular disc manufacturer that the HP doesn't like.

If these "Sony DVD" were DVD+RW like the "Philips DVD" are from the log, then the problem is, most likely, that HP GUE1N drive does not like those Philips discs. A firmware update might fix it, but 1.) there are actually few firmware updates released anymore and 2.) firmware updates often times don't fix issues but cause more. Anyway, right click on the HP burner in Write mode and choose the last option from the context menu, the one about firmware updates. Try applying any updates and see if burns work better. If they don't, then most likely you need a different drive. The MKM discs are generally the best out there. The DataLife Plus variety. You could try a different kind of DVD+RW and that might work better. For a list of possible replacement drive candidates, check this thread: It contains a list of drives tested with that type of media.

There should be nothing preventing ImgBurn from making a copy of the disc, physically. The best thing to do is just try to make a copy. If it doesn't work, the worst you're out is some time and one CD-R. If you're worried about wasting a single CD-R, you can always try copying to a CD-RW first.

Well, I'm not the best person to ask. I have terrible "luck" and I use my drives to burn something probably on average once per day. My general average mean time before failure is about 7 months. The best I ever had was a Pioneer that lasted 2 and a half years. Pioneer, though, is NOWHERE near that level of high quality anymore. And some people have optical drives that last for a decade.

MCC is Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation. Those discs are one of the top two of the best discs you can get out there. Never heard of DAXON-AZ3-00, so I'd be wary of anything I'm unfamiliar with. So, if those DAXON's are the ones you used it the burn from the posted Log, that means DAXON is junk CMC media. Which makes sense. Any no name brand is cheaper because it's cheap CMC trash. I'd try those MCC discs and see if they turn out any better. The MCC's are the DataLife Plus/AZO from Verbatim, which are the top quality discs out there now.

Not necessarily. Could be the burner didn't burn the disc properly or you used a cheap media with playback problems. Although if you're using the same discs from the log you posted, you're using the quality stuff. What precisely does VIDEO_TS.IFO not playing mean? Do you get any kind of error message? Or does just nothing happen? It most likely isn't ImgBurn's fault on its own because I just burned a VIDEO_TS folder to DVD that plays on my LG BD player.

Besides just doing a general search for CMC, I don't know what you can find on the web. I know from experience CMC is junk. I wasted like $2,500 before someone turned me on to CMC. I kept having failure after failure, despite replacing hardware and getting more discs. Then, someone mentioned CMC and I checked the discs I was using. Optodisc switched from their quality discs to CMC, and that explained my failures. When I stopped using the CMC Optodisc and began using the Mitsubishi high quality discs, they worked every time. I also have other emperical evidence. CMC DVD+R DL are trash. After a year from burning, even though they passed burn and Verify, they were totally unreadable. More evidence: more than 50% of the problems on this board were cured when people switched away from CMC crap to some quality like MKM/Mitsubishi or Taiyo Yuden. CMC, when they make it themselves, make the cheapest quality media out there. They will either fail to burn, fail to Verify, fail to read/play properly in hardware, or if they pass all of those, will die much sooner than quality media.

I probably know why, but I need to see the Log of the failed burn. Under Help, choose the option for ImgBurn Log. Open the .LOG file in the folder that opens and find the portion of the Log where the burn fails. Copy and paste the entire portion of that failed burn here.

No. A single person writes the software and it's freeware. This forum is the only tech support.

ImgBurn can burn audio CD's, both images, creating images from audio CD's (99% of the time.), and for creating audio CD's from container files. You need certain plugins like madflac for FLAC, etc. but they work.

Here's the most likely culprit: Destination Media Type: DVD+R DL (Disc ID: CMC MAG-D03-64) The only reliable DVD+R DL is MKM media from Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO. NOT the Verbatim Life Series, which are the CMC junk. You can only find the good Verbatim in online stores, usually. The first thing I'd do is switch from the junk media to quality. If it still fails on quality, then I'd begin investigating other issues. Switching to quality media is the easiest and cheapest solution. So, might as well start there.

MP4 is a container format and uses a better compression method than MPEG-2, which is the compression format for DVD Video. So, a VIDEO_TS made from an MP4 will generally be larger than the size of the MP4. Generally noticeably larger.

You said your source file was a 2.2 GB MP4 file. That would indicate to me the VIDEO_TS output for a DVD would be greater than a DVD-5. Plus, that last screen mentioning cells and layer breaks only applies to double layer DVD's. Well, DVDFlick shouldn't be installing ImgBurn itself unless the author of ImgBurn gave his okay. But, to find the ImgBurn log, open ImgBurn (How you might do that with how ImgBurn is installed on your system, I don't know.) and under Help you'll find an entry for the Log. This opens the folder where the Log is stored. Open this .LOG file and find where in the Log the burn failed. Copy and paste everything related to the burn and, if it got that far, the Verify of that burn.

Well, those are different errors for different things. You apparently had a double layer DVD image, which explains the first and last images. Because you had a double layer DVD, you should have selected the MDS file instead of the ISO file for burning. ImgBurn is just telling you which file you should have loaded and loaded it for you. The middle screen is an indication your drive did not like the discs it was burning to. The DVDFlick log won't do much good here. We need the ImgBurn log of the burn that generated the 2nd image. The 3rd image is because the disc failed to burn or you cancelled the burn and ImgBurn is asking if you still want to close the session/track/disc on the DVD. In both cases, you can probably generally skip it because the disc generally won't be playable at that point. The last screen indicates the double layer DVD image file contents were too large to find a good layer break position. Technically, that DVD probably shouldn't have played at all.