dbminter

I believe you also have to take into consideration that the "file name" character limitation includes the number of characters in the path the file resides in. Not entirely sure about that. How many characters are in the folder path preceding the file name? Also, I saw you mentioned ASCII; did you try Standard character set? And Allow more than 255 characters in path under the ISO9660 settings?

I don't know why UDF wouldn't work as it has a maximum file name length of 256 characters as far as I know. Then again, it's been so long since I used Windows 7. Given its age, it may not support UDF 256 character file systems. Though I would think it would.

I do notice you're using CMC Magentics discs, so those are probably the cheap Verbatim discs. Do you have a log for a Taiyo Yuden burn? If they're CMC as well, that might explain the repeated failures even across multiple PC's and burners. You can rule out the hardware, probably, because you've tried multiple different combinations of those. The software can most likely be ruled out because many others use it just fine. So, what would be unique regardless of what you've tried? Either the images themselves are corrupt, since those could be used across multiple device combinations, or the discs you're using could be causing the problem if they're all CMC, which is the worst media out there. I also notice there is apparently something wrong with this image file in particular, it seems, as some error correcting was done on it. It does appear the drive corrected the errors present in the image file. I don't know about your second question, though.

Could be corrupt images. Did you download them off the Internet? If so, there's a higher likelihood the images themselves are corrupt.

Try changing the file system from ISO9660+UDF to just UDF and use the latest listed version. But, I don't know if Windows 7 supports reading from that.

It has been like a decade since I last tried to create a bootable image in ImgBurn. Plus, if the guide were CORRECT, I'd probably have had better luck...

I have never successfully managed to create any bootable media with ImgBurn. What I would do to modify an existing ISO that boots is inject the files with UltraISO, but that's not freeware. What you might have a shot at is taking one of these bootable ISO's, writing it to a flash drive with Rufus, which is freeware, adding the contents you want to the flash drive you've just written, and then imaging that flash drive with the new contents back to a new ISO file. It should be bootable and contain the files you wanted to add.

Strange that you couldn't find a firmware update on firmwarehq, because there is one there: https://www.firmwarehq.com/Samsung/SE-506CB/files.html TS02 does appear to be the last firmware released for it that consumers can download. Doesn't mean it's the latest, though. For instance, 1.02 of the LG WH16NS60 is not available for downloading off of LG's site. Only 1.01 and 1.03. 1.02 could only be had as a base firmware installed at the factory. To be honest, I doubt it will help you. The issue doesn't appear to be firmware based as you would most likely have experienced problems with the drive from the very beginning.

To be honest, you probably won't find a firmware update for an external device. For whatever reason, manufacturers don't like to release firmware updates for external devices. My theory, cynical as it is, is if they only release new firmware on new devices, it serves as an enticement to dump your old hardware and buy their latest one.

There is one flaw with that feature. It opens a web page for firmwarehq but that site doesn't have all the latest firmware updates. For instance, 1.03 of LG WH16NS60 is not on that site; you have to get it from LG's site.

CD-RW drives may have had those magnets. I only ever had the one CD-R drive back in either 2000 or 2001. Starting in 2002, I've had nothing but DVD and BD drives. You can check for firmware updates in Write mode by right clicking on the drive in the left hand pane and choosing the item near the bottom about firmware updates.

This is actually the first I've ever heard of magnets being used to hold discs in place. And I have to tend to doubt it because if it's an internal drive, I'd have to say magnets in an optical disc drive might interfere with the HDD, particularly in a laptop. As far as I know, every slim model I've ever used has had spring mechanisms in it. Firmware updates do tend to do things like add support for newer discs, but also better reliability for certain older discs, too. Plus, manufacturing processes can change on media, resulting in discs no longer working. That's what happened to the NS60 and the MCC DVD-R. Firmware 1.02 no longer supported them, but the 1.03 update did. You can check for a firmware update, but if it's external, you most likely won't find an update and even if you did, it probably wouldn't help in this case. How old is this Samsung drive? If you've been using it for years, it most likely just gave up the ghost. BD burners have 2 lasers in them: one for CD/DVD and one for BD. So, that effectively doubles the likelihood of something going wrong versus a DVD burner. That's why BD burners don't last as long as DVD ones used to.

I would still say the problem is the CMC Mag discs. However, in Europe, Verbatim BD-R may only be available that way. Here in the States, Verbatim BD-R is of good quality with an MID of VERBAT-IM. You're also using a TSST drive, which have been known to be problematic. Particularly if it's a slim model. But, that doesn't explain how you said the drive had been working with these discs before years ago. That indicates the drive is the problem. And that it may have reached the end of its life. You could try getting an external BD drive and see if you have better results. Particularly a half height model and not a slim one. Conversely, buy an internal half height BD burner and put it in a USB 3.0 enclosure like either of VanTech's 1st or 2nd generation models or an Other World Computing one. I use the LG WH16NS60 and VanTech. Both 1st and 2nd generation work, although with the 2nd generation, you cannot update the firmware of an NS60 with it. It stops attempting to flash at 0% because it never finds it after detecting it. Putting it in a 1st generation VanTech enclosure works. OWN's unit works, but if you power off the enclosure, you MUST restart Windows before it's detected again on power back on. It does this with NS60 but not Pioneer 212 units.

OptiArc's also had a tendency for failure of the eject button mechanism. Software eject, like those issued by ImgBurn, still worked, but physically pressing the eject button wouldn't.

NEC OptiArc drives had a tendency to stop automatically cycling trays for Verify after a while of use. It would work to manually cycle the tray and resume Verifies or do a manual Verify. Your Samsungs may be rebranded OptiArcs, particularly if they were made 11 years ago.

In his defense, he may have answered and I've just forgotten.

Well, I have asked LUK in the past why multiple sessions aren't supported, but I don't think I got an answer. I do know you can't create images of multi-session DVD Video discs in ImgBurn. Panasonic DVD video recorders made such discs and the only way to copy those in ImgBurn is using Build mode, adding the VIDEO_TS folder from such a disc into a Project, and writing a new image file. Discs burned with that new image file could then be copied in the future with ImgBurn's Read mode if desired and they still functioned like a proper DVD Video disc.

As far as I know, ImgBurn is a one and done affair. Meaning, it doesn't support writing multiple sessions. Tracks, yes, but not sessions; LUK can correct me if I'm wrong. And, if the disc ImgBurn writes isn't finalized, I doubt it can be read at all. If you want a giant floppy type of affair, you'll need Windows packet writing. Even if ImgBurn could write more than 1 image to a disc, I don't see how Windows could differentiate the data between 1 image and another on a disc. Images are a container file, so all the contents get written to them like a giant "stamp."

Yes, I just installed ImgBurn on Windows 10 and it worked. The only changes I made to it were user settings imported from a .REG key. I didn't have to change the interface mode at any point to get it to work. And interface mode changes were not part of the exported Registry settings.

I've been using ImgBurn on it ever since Windows 11 came out. However, my Windows 11 setup was an upgrade from Windows 10, where ImgBurn had previously been installed. I have no experience installing ImgBurn on a virgin Windows 11 installation. But, to put it into perspective, I've got a piece of software from 2002 that still runs on Windows 11.

ImgBurn should have created ISO to begin with. But, maybe back in 2009, it saved as BIN. BIN is generally associated with CUE (And for CD's, actually.), and not with MDS. What I would do is try to get these in ISO format first. I am guessing these BIN and MDS combinations are single layer DVD's? If they're double layer, this won't work, but first I'd attempt to write the BIN/MDS to rewritable DVD first. So, some DVD-RW or DVD+RW. Then, once those discs are written, copy the MP4 files from the DVD+/-RW to some temporary location. As to what can convert the MP4, there are free options, but I've never tried them out. From what I've heard, they're slow and very iffy on properly making DVD playable output. I use a piece of paid software called ConvertXToDVD, which offers a free trial with which you can test it out and see if it fits yours needs. Or as we said 6 years ago you could try installing some virtual drive software like CloneDrive and see if the BIN/MDS combo will mount in that. Then, you can skip the burning step with ImgBurn above and just copy the files from the mounted images.

Well, they SHOULDN'T be used. Doesn't mean that they CAN'T. Most times, they will fail to burn properly, but some drives are fine with CMC DVD+R DL discs insofar as they will complete a Write and pass Verify. However, in the long term, CMC DVD+R DL won't last as long as MKM DVD+R DL and you'll probably encounter playback problems with the CMC DVD+R DL.

Also, if "DVD Doble Capa MediaRange" means DVD Double Layer, then you definitely don't want to use MediaRange. There's only one brand of DVD+R DL that works and that is the Verbatim DataLife Plus MKM series. NOT the Life Series, which will be CMC. You can only find the DataLife Plus series in online stores like Amazon.com.

Unfortunately, you generally won't until after you buy them. Reading product reviews can help, but generally most people don't post that kind of information in reviews; I do, though. So, it's basically by trial and error. What you do is you put a recordable disc in a PC drive and open ImgBurn in Write mode. In the right hand pane of information, look for MID (Manufacturer ID.) That string will generally tell you who made it, although those can be faked, of course. If they say CMC, they're junk. (MCC is not junk.) Forums like this one can also help. Searching for an MID string found by ImgBurn can help you determine from other posts if the manufacturer is problematic or not. There are some general rules of thumb. Avoid the Verbatim Life Series. (NOT the DataLife Plus series. Those are MCC.) They're CMC. Avoid Philips as they're generally CMC. Memorex uses a mixture of CMC, Ritek, and Mitsubishi (MCC.) But, most Memorex stuff is CMC. IF they're still around, avoid Optodisc. They used to make a quality product and then they were my first exposure to CMC.

Did you try loading the last file first? Sometimes, a split archive contains some kind of indexing material in the final file, requiring it be loaded first. That's how Reflect does it. If you try to load the first file, it will ask for the last file in the chain first and then ask for the first file again after processing the index file in the final file. I have a feeling 7zip isn't "smart" enough to do this. It hasn't been programmed in a way other than to expect all files in a chain to be in the same location. In the days of floppy disks, PKZIP/WinZip would let you span multiple diskettes and was "smart" enough to ask for the last floppy first.