dbminter

There's not even a need to do a full erase. Just do a quick erase. Full erase will take 45 minutes. Depending on the speed, could be twice that. Quick erase is just a few seconds. Or just use DVD+-RW discs.

Yes, as long as the bootable DVD ISO is in fact bootable, you can write it to BD media, regardless of the kind and type. I do it often since BD-RE DL writes faster than DVD+RW. However, I would do a test first. Burn the bootable DVD ISO to a BD-RE DL and test that it can boot on your system/drive. There should be no problem booting from it as long as the PC recognizes the drive in the boot menu options when you press the proper function key for your system. Be aware you will probably receive a pop up asking if you want to burn a smaller sized ISO to media that is unnecessary for it. Just select that you want to underburn and proceed.

That file probably comes from the "boot sector" of a bootable CD. There's a kind of invisible portion of a bootable CD that is only present during the booting phase. If you were able to access the various drives that were visible after booting from a bootable CD, you'd find a drive letter assigned to the "bootable partition" of the CD. This eftsbootcom file is probably only extractable from a bootable CD. You can insert Windows 10 installation discs and extract the "boot sector" from it with ImgBurn, making it available for the bootable section for a bootable CD. Now, to be honest, I've never actually gotten a manually created bootable CD made by ImgBurn to actually boot, so this is probably the extent of my expertise.

Ah, yes, there's your common thread! With the discs that aren't working, you appear to just be putting MKV files in the ISO. If your DVD player natively supports playing MKV files, then you can do that. Otherwise, you can't. You need DVD Video compliant VIDEO_TS folders for a DVD player to play a DVD. As LUK said, there are a few options out there to convert to your MKV to VIDEO_TS. Freemake does it, like you said, but you have to pay to remove the watermark and to get "sane" processing time. I use a paid piece of software called ConvertXToDVD. I've been using it for about 10 years now to convert container files such as MKV to DVD Video. I've never used anything else extensively to convert containers to DVD Video beyond ConvertXToDVD so I can't recommend any particular piece of software otherwise.

Are you sure AUDIO_TS and VIDEO_TS on that disc were files and not folders? They should be folders on DVD Video compliant discs. IF you just fed MKV files into an ISO and burned it to disc, then maybe your DVD player supports playing MKV files natively from disc.

Okay. As I said, I think, but I don't know for sure, that the author updated the installer this year. So, maybe the hash info is old. The author would have to address this at this point.

Ah, just because a container plays on a PC doesn't mean you can put it on a DVD and expect it to play in a stand alone DVD player. The DVD player has to support playing back container files like MKV. Has this portable player played MKV files from DVD's before? If it used to, then, the problem is the MKV file itself. It may have a codec that is not supported for playback by the DVD player. Or the job settings for this DVD you created are not set properly for that player to recognize a disc has been inserted. I thought you were dealing with movie DVD's, commonly called DVD Video.

Which mirror did you use? Try Mirror 7, the one from the "official" site and see if you get mismatches. I believe the installer might have been updated recently and maybe old checksum hash info is on the site.

What did you use to create the DVD that says it's an unknown disc? I'm guessing it wasn't Freemake. It might have authored an incorrect disc. And I'm still looking at if VIDEO_TS wasn't placed properly in the root directory of the job. Put this failed disc in your PC drive, open Windows/File Explorer and make sure there's a VIDEO_TS folder (Check for correct spelling, too.) in the root directory. Navigate to VIDEO_TS and make sure there's a VIDEO_TS.IFO file there. Also try playing this disc that doesn't play in another DVD player, preferably not a PC drive. Like someone else's DVD player. As for the log, I've never heard of the Disc ID being used before. However, since you've gotten them to work before, that's not the problem. It's an issue, but not a problem. Also, just going by judging here, looks like you downloaded this ISO you're burning? Maybe the ISO was never authored correctly to begin with.

Without a log to go by yet, two preliminary possibilities: 1.) VIDEO_TS wasn't in the root directory of the disc that was burned. 2.) the DVD player you put that disc in doesn't like the disc manufacturer of that burned disc. This would be particularly possible with cheap media like CMC Magnetics of the kind made by Verbatim as the Life Series you find in stores.

Try Mirror 7. That's the direct download link and most likely to be unaltered. Some of those "virus" hits are false positives. They're not viruses but PUP, Potentially Unwanted Programs. PUA probably means Potentially Unwanted Application. Lazy AV software writers lump PUP's with viruses even though they aren't.

If you can, take this disc and make sure, on another PC, that the disc is, in fact, empty, with nothing on it. Also, to cover all bases, in Write mode, Test Mode is not checked?

The US government has talked about privatizing the USPS for some years. And, maybe, it might make the service better. Or better yet just farm out the entire USPS system to UPS. Pay UPS to deliver ALL mail, not just packages.

My big problem with Amazon.com is not with them but the fact that they use USPS to deliver things. While they may actually use UPS to do the majority of the shipping, USPS will always do the delivery. And, 4 times, the USPS has delivered my mail to the wrong house, including an Amazon.com package with a near $100 item in it! Thankfully, the person who got it was kind enough to bring it to my house, where it belonged. But, USPS has also failed to deliver one of my credit card bills and a gas bill before! Good thing I keep an eye on them in the mail and my online accounts. I was able to print out my statements and send in the payments on my own.

Following up on Amazon.com giving me 6x Verbatim BD-R when I ordered 16x, I ordered another cake stack of 50 16x. This time, like the last time I bought 50, I got 16x, what I ordered. Go figure.

I have a probable idea, but I need to see the log of a failed burn. Post one of these 3 failed burn logs. Open Help and choose ImgBurn Logs. The folder containing the log file will open. Open the .LOG file, find an entry for a failed burn, and post the entire burn log, both before the failure and after, including the failure point.

Sony actually created the very first dual format DVD drive, the DRU line. It ended the recordable DVD format war before it could start to become a mess like the video tape format war. Now, everyone does it. But, around 2003, Sony was the first. I believe Sony bought NEC/Optiarc and simply stopped putting Sony labels on their own DVD hardware. Instead, they simply just used NEC/Optiarc as their arm for making DVD drives. Sony still put their label on their DVD recordable discs and still does as far as I know. Thought last I had any Sony DVD-R, they were made by Ritek. Unlike the higher quality product Sony itself used to make. One of Sony's rare quality products post 2001 was when they made their own recordable DVD's. But even they couldn't keep doing that right and farmed out to Ritek to increase profits.

Pioneer used to make a fine product. The longest lasting optical drive I ever had was from Pioneer, my first BD of theirs I had. It last over 2 years, unprecedented in my experience with optical drives. But, ever since that first few samples, the durability fell over the cliff. And they keep borking the firmware. So, I can no longer recommend their products anymore. They go on my list with CMC, HP, and Sony.

Just because a CMC completes a burn doesn't mean it's good. That's the nature of cheap media. Half the time you'll get completed burns. Some people never have a problem burning with them and think they're good. Someone people always get failures. Some get 50/50 results. The problem with cheap media is even though it completes a burn, it may not be playable. I had some CMC DVD+R that burned fine, but no DVD player would recognize they were inserted for playing. Plus, another problem with cheap media is in as little as a year's time, there's no guarantee cheap media will still be readable. I've had personal experience with CMC DVD+R DL that completed burn and Verify but were unreadable after a year. Plus, it depends on your drive. Some drives are a bit more forgiving than others. The only solution there if you have a problem with a drive and media combination failure is to replace the drive. It's simply easier and cheaper to use the quality media. One thing you could do is try searching for a firmware update for your drive. In Write mode, right click on the drop down list of target drives for burning and choose the option near the bottom of the context menu to check for firmware updates. Sometimes, it's simply a case of older firmware. Newer updates to the drive's firmware might resolve compatibility problems, but they can introduce new ones, like Pioneer does ALL the time.

This is your most likely culprit: I 23:26:25 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magnetics Corporation makes the absolutely worst, cheap media you can buy. Over half of the problems we see on this board are cured by not using cheap media like CMC. Try Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO CD-R. NOT the Life Series you find in stores, which are CMC. You will only find the DataLife Plus media in online stores.

Toshiba/Samsung. Most likely Samsung. TSST stands for Toshiba Samsung Storage Technology.

What it means is the 212 isn't properly writing the data to disc to begin with. Luckily, everything I write to DVD+RW is for temporary storage. And, Verifies give me confidence that any important information stored on them was properly written. The 212 is doing two things wrong. First, when it formats 8x Ritek DVD+RW, Verify will always fail on the first sector. Second, it's not writing at the other edge correctly. The last sector will fail to Verify more times than not.

It must be the 212's writing ability. Writes complete, but Verifies fail either at the start at 0.1% or at the end at 99.9%. I put that disc in an LG and run a manual Verify against image contents and the same thing happens, so it must be the drive's writing that is wrong. I can take the same disc that failed, with the same image, write in it ImgBurn, too, in the LG, and Write and Verify completes fine. So, as it's been for the past 3 years with 4 different Pioneer BD writers, it's the borked firmware.

Well, the 212 is trash! It fails more often than not to Verify contents at the very end of a disc, either the inner most side or the outer most side for Ritek 8x DVD+RW. So, whenever the entire available space is written to, Verify WILL fail at 99.9%! That's it! I'm fed up with Pioneer They've been borking firmware for this media for like 3 years now! I will, from now on, actively persuade people away from Pioneer drives and steer them towards LG's.

Here's your most likely problem: I 21:42:41 Source Media Type: BD-R (Disc ID: CMCMAG-DI6-000) Don't use CMC media. They're trash. It's a 50/50 proposition if a disc will work or not. Buy Verbatim BD-R and get the VERBAT-IM media. In what country do you live? In some parts of Europe, the good BD-R from Verbatim in the US is actually cheap CMC media. In the USA, BD-R made by Verbatim are the quality brand.