dbminter

CMC Magnetics is the bad stuff. Over half the issues we see on this board are caused by using CMC media. When people switch away from CMC, their problems generally disappear. Not always, but usually. MCC is Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation which makes the good stuff for Memorex and Verbatim. CMC Magnetics/MCC means that CMC/MCC actually made the discs, not the label slapped on the package. There are very few actual manufacturers of optical media, but many companies sell their products under their brand name. Verbatim/MCC, Ritek, CMC, Taiyo Yuden are basically the big names in the business. But only the stuff made MCC (only the good Verbatim) and Taiyo Yuden are quality media. When you say you can burn all other images, what images are you burning and to what media? Are you using the same CD-RW to burn all CD images to? There are differences between CD and DVD manufacturing processes and also in how they're burned. Now, if you've successfully burned other CD images to this same CD-RW without a problem, then you could be more confident in saying it's a problem with the CCD image itself. I'm not too familiar with CCD, which I believe means CloneCD made the image. I haven't used CloneCD in like 15 or 20 years so I know little about it.

CD-R from Memorex is also known to use CMC Magnetics discs but is also known to use the good stuff from MCC. You'd have to check one of these Memorex discs in ImgBurn to see if you've got "good" Memorex from MCC or the bad stuff from CMC. (Notice how CMC just rearranges the letters of a known good manufacturer to try and trick people?)

Yes, I would also blame the cheap media. See this line: I 23:07:43 Destination Media Type: DVD-R (Disc ID: CMC MAG. AM3) CMC Magnetics makes the worst possible media out there. A good portion of the CMC problems we see on this board are solved by switching to something else. If you want to use Verbatim, you want the DataLife Plus/AZO series you only find in online stores. Not the Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores as those are CMC. Now, here's the bad news. Guess who bought Verbatim. Yep, CMC!

Try not using cheap media. Here's your most likely culprit: I 13:49:59 Destination Media Type: CD-RW (Disc ID: 97m26s65f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magnetics makes the worst discs out there. Try something from Verbatim that is DataLife Plus, not the Life Series you find in stores. You can only find the DataLife Plus series online. You may also want to check about your CD-RW. Have you used it before? If so, how many times? It may have just reached the end of its life span.

You will find Help on the far right at the top of the ImgBurn window. Then, somewhere in there, you'll find a log files option, I forget what it's exactly called but it's obvious what it is. The folder with the .LOG log file opens. Then you open the .LOG file in whatever editor you have for text files, usually associated with Wordpad. Then, find the entry for a failed burn, which you'll find in the Verify section that says it failed. You can then copy and paste that part of the log, both Write and Verify sections, into a post on the board. We'll need both parts and the entirety of the log. Unfortunately, you can't just buy Verbatim and expect to get the good stuff. You have to specifically find DataLife Plus or AZO in the item description. I usually find them on Amazon.com, but tech ships SUPER slow now from them. In other words, avoid the Life Series stuff from Verbatim. I generally use Taiyo Yuden DVD-R now because CMC, which unfortunately bought Verbatim, changed the manufacturing process of the DataLife Plus series to maximize profit, which means minimizing quality. On the LG WH16NS60 Blu-Ray burner I use, that media is no longer any good, when it used to be the best. I placed an order for recordable Blu-Ray from Verbatim from Amazon.com back on April 13th and it still hasn't shipped yet! Its estimated delivery date is May 10th.

Without the log I can only guess, but I have a probable guess as to why you got a Verify error and why it wouldn't play on some DVD players. You were probably using a CMC Magnetics recordable DVD, which is the cheapest media out there. If you bought these DVD's in a store, like particularly the Life Series from Verbatim you find in stores, then you got CMC media. Or they may be Ritek or some other cheaper media, too. The log would tell us what media type you were using. The way around that is to use Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO discs you only find in online stores. However, the current process for some DataLife Plus DVD is not compatible with the LG WH16NS60 Blu-Ray burner. The log would also tell us what burner you used.

Ah, as I thought, you're using a Panasonic DVD video recorder. Ever since the first model released in 2002, it has been impossible for me to image discs made by it with Read mode. Panasonic DVD recorders record in multitrack format. I have such discs going back to 2002 and all require me to use Build mode as I described to make copies of them since they can't be read to image files by ImgBurn. You might be able to use something like DVDShrink, a free program, to make an ISO and use ImgBurn to burn the ISO. I forget, but I think it's possible. You indicate you got past discs made by a Panasonic DVD video recorder to image in the past, but I don't see how it's possible. I've had 5 different models released from 2002 to 2009 and all discs made by all models behaved like you describe where you can't read them to image files in ImgBurn because of the multitrack limitation. I'm still using an older model myself, actually. My first one from 2002, which still works.

I pointed out the log entry hoping it might prompt LUK to remember/say where it might be written on the disc info itself. Whether, as I said, it was just a log entry or if it was actually written to disc.

Yes, I'm pretty sure ImgBurn records which version you're using somewhere in some field when you burn an image to disc. In fact, from my most recent log: I 10:13:18 Image File Application Identifier: IMGBURN V2.x.x.x - THE ULTIMATE IMAGE BURNER! I'm guessing somewhere Image File Application Identifier is written somewhere to the disc instead of just in the image file itself?

BIN shouldn't be used for DVD. Is the DVD less than 1 GB in size? Even then it should be an ISO. I never found out why, but multitrack discs are not supported by ImgBurn for Read mode. Is it a movie DVD? Was it created by a DVD video recorder? Or it could just be how the DVD was authored by the manufacturer. While you can't use Read mode to read a multitrack DVD to an image file, you can still make an image file copy for burning. You'll need Build mode for that. In Build mode, drag and drop all files and folders from the multitrack DVD into a Build job and create an image file that way. While it won't be a "1:1" copy, you'll still have the contents. And if it's a VIDEO_TS folder you're adding from a DVD Video disc, ImgBurn will make the necessary file system changes for DVD Video. Basically, follow this guide Even if it's not a DVD Video disc you're creating, the basic Build mode instructions are relatively the same.

I'm not familiar with mini DVD-R or burning GameCube games. The actual media you use for burning game discs doesn't matter, but the drive you use CAN. I'm not entirely sure if it applies to GameCube games, but I know you need special drives and loaders for XBox games. So you may need a particular type of burner like a LiteOn for GameCube games, though I believe it's XBox games that are so picky.

Do you still have the CD-ROM you already burned? You shouldn't need to burn a 2nd copy because the first one should work. Just follow the install steps I listed for getting the game to install with the disc you already made, if you still have it. If you don't have the CD-ROM you already burned, burn a new copy by following the How to write an image file to disc link here Where it says "If you created the image with ImgBurn, you should be looking for a *.CUE / *.MDS file initially. If you can't locate one of those with the name you're expecting, go for whatever is left! (probably a *.ISO file)" you will want to open the file that has .CUE at the end of its name instead of the .BIN file.

Ah, what you have in that ZIP file (I just snagged it.) is a BIN/CUE file set. That's a CD format image file set, so you will get a CD-ROM when you burn it. In the guide I linked earlier, load the .CUE file instead of a .ISO file. You'll want to load the .CUE file instead of the .BIN file for proper burning. The .BIN file is the actual data and the .CUE file tells how to properly burn the .BIN file to the destination. I did not burn the BIN/CUE file set, but I mounted the BIN as a virtual drive to test with. There is something called Install DirectMedia6, which I've never heard of before. I guess you already chose to try installing DirectX7. Try installing DirectMedia 6. Now, I did notice the game is 18 years old, so I am worried it simply doesn't run on modern Windows. But, it turns out, I got it working. All I did was 1.) choose Install Dino2 from the disc menu. I didn't install DirectMedia6 or DirectX7. After the installer finishes, the installer closes. I ran the installer again and this time Play Dino2 was available, which it wasn't before. And the game does run on Windows 10 1909. So, if you haven't tried it yet, 1.) run the installer from the disc 2.) choose Install Dino2 3.) the installation program closes. Rerun the installer from the disc. 4.) Play Dino2 should be selectable now for you to run the game. If it doesn't, I can't explain it. Of course, I didn't actually burn the BIN/CUE file set. I ran it as a virtual drive from the hard disk.

You'd be surprised at the sheer number of programs that become unusable on Windows simply because of their age. They work on the previous version of Windows then you update to the latest Windows, try to run the old application, and it simply never starts. Plus, when you download something like an old game installer, you never know for sure IF it ever even worked before. Many people just make copies of install discs and post them without testing them. And if they had copy protection mechanisms on them, it would make them worse. If the ZIP file just contains an ISO file, all you need to do is use Write image file to disc and load the ISO for writing. That's the extent of it. What you get afterwards is up for grabs.

How old is this game? It could simply be old enough that it refuses to run on modern versions of Windows.

Try using something other than cheaper DVD media. Try the DataLife Plus/AZO discs made by Verbatim. NOT the Life Series you find in stores. I 17:22:36 Destination Media Type: DVD-R (Disc ID: RITEKG04 01) The above generally indicates a lesser quality brand of recordable DVD. Some might work fine, some might not. That's the nature of cheaper quality media. It's the first thing I'd try. Try using Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO discs you can only find online. Granted, I've never seen a Possible Bogus Driver error detected before, so it could be something else.

I'm not sure if that's a joke or you're serious. Actually, I thought of something where that may not be an error. It could be a double sided recordable disc. You don't see many of those anymore, but they can probably still be found.

I would avoid the ASUS model. I had 2 of those, I think, and they both did the same thing: destroyed rewritable media! Now, a firmware update in the years since might have resolved that, but I wouldn't know.

Well, I did say it was with a variation.

Interesting. Because, what you just described, with a slight variation, happens on the LG WH16NS40. What drive are you using? As LUK says, there's no difference between the two types of writes, but empirical evidence bears out it does happen. I proved it in my testing experience and it was backed up by someone who originally posted their results and I tried them. On the LG WH16NS40, if you use Build mode to create an ISO and burn the ISO with Write mode, the NS40 WILL fail Verify at the layer change on BD-R/RE DL Verbatim media. BUT, if you use the Write files/folders to disc option to do the writing on the fly, it does Verify. As LUK said and said back then, there's no difference from a technical point of view between the two write methodologies. However, repeated experience from myself and others has borne out that in this weird case, it did make a difference. Go figure.

Extract Boot Image is an executable function that extractesthe boot image from a bootable partition, optical disc, or even a floppy disk. That file that is saved with that function is then put in the Boot Image line to serve as the boot image for the disc you're creating.

There are other solutions, but they're expensive in the long run, too. Replace your DVD burner. Get another one and hope its combination of firmware versus the manufacturer ID of the discs you're using isn't conflicting, which is what is happening in your case. However, there's no guarantee the next drive you get will work. Bottom line is, no, there's really no other viable solution. However, it's also not a 100% guarantee that using DataLife Plus media will be compatible with your drive, too. Oh, another possibility is you're burning an XBox disc. I think only certain LiteOn drives are compatible with burning discs that will work, but I'm not entirely sure it's LiteOns that work.

This is your most likely culprit: I 13:55:19 Destination Media Type: DVD+R DL (Disc ID: CMC MAG-D03-64) Don't use cheap media like CMC MAG discs. Particularly if you want to burn DL media. Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT the Life Series you find in stores.) is pretty much the only reliable DVD+R DL discs out there. You can only find the DataLife Plus series online in places like Amazon.com and on the Verbatim web store.

Yes, sometimes it's best to power cycle the PC when dealing with optical drive problems. Sometimes cycling the entire PC power clears out the occasional cobweb that causes an issue.