dbminter

If you're sure they're music CD's and not DVD's, then something is up. It sounds like you created an image file from this music CD. While in Write mode with this image loaded, in the pane of image file info on the left hand side, what is the Size field in bytes? Also, are you putting in recordable DVD's into your burner instead of recordable CD's? If they're music CD's, you'll need CD-R or CD-RW to burn the image to. If you put in a recordable DVD and you're trying to burn an Audio CD image to it, ImgBurn might be detecting you're trying to write to the wrong media format. In this case, DVD-R/DVD+R/DVD-RW/DVD+RW/DVD-RAM.

dr_ml, I'm curious. What did VSO eventually tell you?

Well, after testing the new VanTec enclosure I tried to see if it was just my last model, it isn't! It took 6 days, but the fundamental flaws in this device showed themselves again. It randomly dropped communication with the device! Thankfully, it did it during a Verify, so I didn't lose a disc. So, it just goes to prove I'm generally right! I figured it was a fundamental flaw in this piece of junk, and it is. Well, it goes back to Amazon.com! Actually, it shows what I know! It proved to me I should do my due duty before reaching a conclusion. I tried Verifying again and it always dropped communication at roughly the same place. So, I put the disc in my internal SATA LG and tried to Verify it that way. At roughly the same place (53% on the VanTec versus 51% on the SATA.) it failed to Verify due to an unreadable sector. Now, when there are failures of write or Verifies on the VanTec, it always did drop communication with the device. A DIFFERENT fundamental flaw. That's why I decided to test it in another drive. So, it seems I had a bad disc or a bad burn. I'll see if this happens again. However, it could mean the refurbished LG is bad, too, as I don't know if I've written single layer DVD+R in it yet. I know I have successfully made BD-R, DVD+RW, and DVD+R DL in it. Could have just been a bad blank. The 2nd attempt to burn it completed fully and successfully in the VanTec. However, this could be indicative of a bad refurbished drive. That it randomly fails to burn properly DVD+R. Since I don't know if I successfully burned DVD+R before, I can't rule out either a bad blank or a bad drive.

As far as I know, you still needed decrypting software for UHD. What it is is some drives are so called UHD friendly, meaning they can allow decrypting of UHD BD discs. But, as time goes on and Hollywood applies pressure the manufacturers of these drives plug these holes. I had read about the online petition to basically hire all new writers and redo the last season of GOT because it was so bad.

Ah, an explanation of the Neil reference: https://spittingimage.fandom.com/wiki/Tomorrow_Belongs_To_Me I get it now that it's blatantly explained to a foreigner.

Well, that was unexpected. I got my new enclosure and put the refurbished WH16NS60 in it for testing both. I didn't notice it at first, but the model LG sent me has a firmware that ISN'T available for download! The firmware revision on the refurbished model is 1.02; the newest you can get from LG's web site is 1.01 from December 2017. I'm not entirely sure I like this turn of events. Are they using me as an unpaid, unwitting beta tester? What was changed? Is this firmware going to make things worse? 1.01 was working fine as far as I could tell. Most likely, this firmware update is an innocuous one designed simply to plug some hole that allows copying of UHD BD's. The last firmware update I installed for the WH16NS40 did that and only that as far as I could tell.

Ah, VSO intrigue! Sounds interesting. I did notice they put out a new beta for VSO Downloader. So, they are doing something, but it was unknown to me if they were ever going to work on ConvertXToDVD/Video ever again.

I refer to all slim models. If there are any good slim model drives, it's news to me based on what I read on these forums.

You're going to need some kind of software where you can convert the audio input type and save a new kind of video file. Probably something like AVIDeMux would do the job. Just be sure not to use Copy under Audio but use a different audio output type. Otherwise, you'll just have the same problem.

That's probably why it works. Unlike hard mods, soft mods can be updated to include more functions. Well, some hard mod chips could get firmware updates later on in development life of the PS2.

It's not the PS2 system that matters. It was the modification method used to play discs. Back in 2002, when I last checked, mod chips didn't support DL copies. But, of course, that was 17 years ago, so things can have advanced since then, naturally.

Came across this on YouTube Being American, I only ever saw 1 Spitting Image special that was made especially for the United States market around 1985, but I absolutely loved it. Even taped it on Betamax. Plus the same puppeteers did their work on that Genesis video that I got to see here in the States. I still miss Spitting Image, even though I only ever saw those little bits. The above video is satire that escapes a lot of me, of course, not being British or aware of 1987 British politics, but I do believe that's Margaret Thatcher at the end. Which would make perfect sense to end with her in a song quoting Tomorrow Belongs To Me. I get the feeling I'm missing a fantastic joke about "Still think you can control them, Neil?" I know that's referencing a Michael York line from the Cabaret movie that is inserted into the song number. But, I think it's making fun of something else that would go over my head.

So, that was the problem. Whoever made those CD's apparently changed how they used to be made. From Mode 1 to Mode 2 because what you describe is a data CD, not an audio CD.

If the Booktype wasn't successfully set, there would probably be a listing in the Log window that it tried but failed to do so. Usually some kind of warning like "Invalid operation code." At least, that's what it says on my LG WH16NS60 when it tries to set the Booktype, but fails. Since that drive apparently doesn't support setting Booktype. Most PS2 games aren't double layer DVD's. Very few were actually released. And, as far as I knew, very few mod chips supported DVD+R DL copies.

Hm, that sounds like a data CD. Don't know about data CD's, but I thought they were saved as ISO's, not BIN/CUE. I thought BIN was reserved specifically for audio CD's. When you put the CD in a drive and open the drive in Windows/File Explorer, what happens? Does a folder open showing the contents or does an application open something from the CD? If it's the first, then it's a data CD. As a test, I created a small data CD image in Build mode. I then mounted that ISO as a virtual drive and had ImgBurn read an image of the virtual drive. It created an ISO from the data disc. So, it does use ISO for data CD's and BIN for audio CD's. What this means for you I can't say. If it's a data CD, it should be reading as an ISO. Unless they somehow changed the formats of the discs they sent you. However, I'd have thought that ImgBurn would check for actual audio tracks on an audio CD before selecting BIN/CUE for the output. If you really want an ISO and it is a data CD and not an audio CD, what you can do is start Build mode and drag and drop the contents from the disc you wanted to image. Then build a new image file that will be saved to ISO, unless you have file splitting turned on so that the image will be chopped up into smaller parts based on whatever threshold you set for splitting.

Try Googling the model "name." Search for something like "Who makes" model name.

BIN/CUE will always be used for audio CD's. I don't know about audio CD's that have a data track on them. But, pure audio CD's will use BIN/CUE, unless you have the option enabled to create .CCD (CloneCD) files. Then .IMG will be used. Unless it did it with older versions, I don't think ImgBurn ever saves audio CD's as ISO. And I don't think there's a way to save to ISO in ImgBurn.

No, I never did any kind of tweaking to MPC-HC settings because I never found a reason to dislike the results I was getting. I have, though, found 2 LAV filter bugs that I let the K-Lite Codec Pack forum know of. Twice in a while, a bug would slip in in the LAV filter where no DVD Video input would play! After installing each update individually to find the culprit, it was the LAV filter updates. Thankfully, that hasn't happened in a while. Yes, by transfer, I mean popping in a disc into my slim model LG BD drive, opening File Explorer, and copying contents from discs to HDD. I rarely use it to write discs because, as a slim model, my tests bore out what was said on these forums that slim models are junk. I tried writing a small CD sized ISO to a DVD+RW and it failed Verify!

If you never plan on burning these ISO's to a disc, I don't see why you couldn't just use Ignore Layer Break. As you say, though, you're probably better off just leaving the VIDEO_S folder on some media for opening. Otherwise, you'd need something like VLC that supports playing DVD Video ISO's natively or you'd have to take the extra steps to mount the ISO as a virtual drive each time you wanted to play it.

Just updated to 1903 ahead of the official rollout by using a 20 day old so called RTM installation ISO of the May 2019 Update. It has its problems but it has its pluses too. The biggest problem is the list of recently used files in the Search bar. I didn't ask for it, I don't want it, and you CAN'T open image files from it! It will say there is no assigned App to open image files. And if you set your Photo Viewer in the Default Apps, it ONLY changes the double click behavior of files in File Explorer. This will NOT fix the Search problem. Notifications have painfully returned to the bad old days of whenever one pops up, the icon that lets you know it came up will NOT clear until you manually clear all Notifications in the Action Center. My old Desktop image has been replaced with a lesser quality one. The old one worked fine. They entirely replaced the Windows 10 windows pane Desktop image with a lighter blue one. And since I have a Waterfox shortcut on my desktop, which is light blue, and Waterfox webpage shortcuts, which are also blue, it's a little blurry on the eyes. I didn't ask for this change and I don't want it. If you're going to offer a new option, then damn well keep the old one! On the plus side, and maybe I'm imagining it, but it seems that my transfers from my internal LG BD drive, which were super slow before, have sped up quite noticeably. And the Windows Update update behavior modifications are quite welcome and long overdue. And something on a personal note that has bugged me a long time now. I have a utility that runs on Windows start that communicates with my Brother printer. It determines how much ink is left in each of the 4 cartridges and advises if they're low. Or when they run out. For a while, this app never detected my printer until I disconnected the USB cable and reconnected it! So, I connected a USB port with individual power cycle buttons on it. That way, I could cycle the communication with the port easier than unplugging and reconnecting the USB cable. This has worked for a while now. After updating to 1903, my printer is now recognized whenever the application starts!

I used to use Partition Wizard, because unlike Partition Master, it wasn't crippled to 8 GB and smaller drives for its free version. However, it doesn't work right anymore! I tried its latest version to resize a partition at the end of my WD drive, but, like the previous version, it never did anything! It started to do something, but then just never did anything. After half an hour, it was at 0% done. The log file said nothing was actually done. And because the log said nothing, tech support was useless, as I knew they would be. So, I switched to AOMEI Partition Assistant Standard Edition. Granted, I've not actually tried its resizing function yet as I've not encountered a case where I need to yet, so my opinion may change, and I may have to try a Partition Master license.

BTW, I believe the slow down in file searches in the May 2019 Update (Windows 10 1903) has been addressed in an Insider Build. Whether this means it will filter down to 1903 as an update or only available in the next Feature Update is unknown.

I could theoretically get faster DVD builds if I wrote my ConvertXToDVD output to the SSD. But, I use the internal mechanical HDD I also got with this system for that. They say you shouldn't write large files to an SSD if you can avoid it because it causes the cells to wear out faster. Don't know if that's true or not. I've been using Western Digital as my primary USB HDD's for well over 5 years now. Never had one die on me. Unlike Seagate! The only reason I ever put a WD out of circulation was to upgrade to a higher capacity drive when necessary. I've got 3 of them now. My primary 10 GB one for everyday use. An 8 GB one that used to do that job but now stores yearly backups on. And a 6 GB one that used to be the daily one years ago but now stores redundant copies of the yearly backups. I used to have a 4 GB one that stored redundant copies of yearly backups, but I gave that one away after getting the 10 GB one. I swapped in the old 6 GB one for the 4 GB's purpose. I've also got a 4 GB WD My Passport portable drive for storing things like temporary files, files I need to take on the go, and for the backups I made of the system when I first got it and periodic backups taken during the reinstall of everything. In a month or 2, I plan on trying a WD 512 GB USB SSD. I've got a 500 GB Samsung T5 that I do like so I thought I'd see if WD's really is 512 GB or just 500 like Samsung's. If it is 512, then I can squeeze out that extra 12 GB over the T5.

Well, if we didn't update Windows 10 every time it had a bug, we'd never update it. I don't use native Windows file searching anyway because, on Windows 10, it NEVER found a single file that I knew was there! That's why I use Everything for my searches. The LG drive that came with the SATA cable in the Super DVD Writer was the refurbished drive from LG. And the Amazon LG drive is the one with the slow LeadIn. The only companies making 5.25" USB 3.0 enclosures, and you need USB 3.0 for BD drives, are VanTech and Mercury Pro. Both have their limitations, but, at least, the Mercury Pro didn't drop communication randomly with the drive, like the VanTec did. This, of course, ruins a burn and wastes a WORM disc. I just ordered a new VanTec yesterday to see if it was a fluke or if its behavior can be reproduced. At least, this time, I can know ahead of time, test for it, and return the enclosure if necessary. I used to use Acronis True Image for years, then, for years, the software was useless! The Rescue Media either wouldn't recognize connected USB HDD or, WORSE, would recognize the devices BUT when you started a restore, the media would conveniently FORGET the devices were connected! Of course, this was AFTER the target partition had already been deleted, resulting in a system you can't boot! I was just glad I was smart enough to have an old Acronis image and rescue media that worked image so I could restore my system back to booting. Now, I use Macrium Reflect. It also allows you to restore images to different hardware; it's called ReDeploy. Unfortunately, the feature is not really as easy as it is doing with True Image.

Open the log and find a failed Verbatim BD-R burn. Look for a line that looks like this one from the above: Destination Media Type: BD-R (Disc ID: RITEK-DR3-000) What is the Disc ID? Look for a failed DVD burn, too. Copy and paste the log from a failed DVD burn as well. Also, in particular, note the same Destination Media Type log. It's probably not related to the type of media you're using, but it could be. Particularly if you're using the same kind of "bad" Verbatim media for both BD and DVD. There's good Verbatim and there's bad Verbatim. However, given you're getting random failures on DVD and BD media, it's probably down to the drive itself needing replacing. However, the very reason it could be random is that sometimes bad media was used and sometimes good media was. For instance, Ritek is pretty bad media for dual layer writing, either BD or DVD. It's common to have problems burning DL Ritek media. Without knowing if you've used good media, like the good kind of Verbatim and not the CMC MAG type of media, it's hard to tell.