dbminter

Okay. No, I've never seen a single episode. Don't get HBO. Can't afford it. My local library at one time had all seasons on DVD, but I don't know if they do anymore. And, after these years, such a popular release is either scratched all to holy Hell and unplayable or simply someone stole it claiming to "lose" it. Anyway, it's just something that never interested me. Dragons and showing boobs seem boring to me. Funny that I'm watching Family Guy right now which had a joke in its new episode tonight about a TV show called Dragon Boobs as a parody of Game Of Thrones. Dragonheart is more along my lines of a dragon story that I liked.

I've never actually seen the label DataLife Plus applied to Verbatim BD-R before. Just CD and DVD. So, I can't say for sure. I've never seen that packaging before either. And given that it's outside the US, I also can't say. However, DataLife Plus is the quality label Verbatim puts on its highest tier CD and DVD recordable discs. In the US, there is no DataLife Plus label on the BD-R. It's all the same stuff with Disc ID VERBAT-IM. However, Verbatim BD-RE SL are CMC junk and should be avoided, but their BD-RE DL is TDK, which is good quality. So, it's hard to say since Verbatim doesn't follow a steady pattern in the US either. If I had to hazard a guess, I'd say if it says DataLife Plus on it, go for it.

That's what I meant by a Panasonic DVD recorder. A standalone DVD recorder that records from TV/VCR/RCA cable/component connected devices. If he said it was that kind of recorder, I was going to explain that they can return those kinds of errors on their discs. I've been using Panasonic DVD video recorders since 2002 and I've had several models. I believe all of them create discs that ImgBurn cannot read to a file because of how they record their discs with a new track each time you add a title set.

I would agree to try something other than Ritek first. Depending on where you live, Ritek can be pretty bad stuff. In Europe, it's pretty notorious for being problematic. In the US, where I live, it's a somewhat decent 2nd tier product, but I wouldn't use it if I could use something else. Particularly Ritek BD media. They have playback problems on the PS3 which I have verified through experience. Since it seems you're trying to burn a movie BD, try Verbatim BD-R. However, as someone pointed out in another thread, in Europe, Verbatim might be using CMC for its BD-R, which IS the worst you can get. So, don't get the Life Series you'll find in stores as they will be CMC. You will want the Verbatim BD-R that says its Disc ID is VERBAT-IM. You'll usually only find those online. They may say AZO or DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series.) on them. Now, the DataLife Series you find online like on Amazon.co.uk may be CMC. Being in the US, I don't know; I'm just reporting what someone in Europe encountered recently in their posts. They ended up importing good Verbatim from Amazon.com, choosing the stuff I get.

When you say DVD recorder that created the disc you're trying to copy, do you mean a burner like a drive in your PC or an external DVD video recorder like a Panasonic drive? I can understand why it might say that on a Panasonic drive and will explain more later if that's the case. When you're in Build mode, it's not asking you to locate an image file. In this case, in your case, you'd want to put in the disc you're trying to make a copy of and drag and drop all files and folders from the disc in your drive into a Build image project. Build will then create an image file from those files you added for burning to a disc.

I remember the dark days of the late 1990's when programmers got lazy and thought they'd hit the jackpot. They started coding their menu interfaces as HTML and letting IE 4 serve as the main interface. Then, IE 5 came out and broke like half of everyone's applications! I remember buying one program in a brick and mortar store that didn't work out of the box because IE 5 kept the HTML from loading. After that fiasco, no one ever did what was such a stupid idea to begin with ever again. And I still remember the days before there was DL DVD recordable media and you were forced to do everything on DVD-5's. Of course, I can also remember getting into CD burning in 2000 before that. Yeah, it's all been a pretty wild ride over the past nearly 2 decades. I mean, now we've got 125 GB discs to work with if we desire! Even with just DL BD media, you can (Usually. Unless you're a gamer, where games take up a LARGE amount of storage space.) backup your entire Windows partition of installed applications and Windows itself onto one disc now! (One should keep their data separate from Windows to make backing up easier/shorter. I never use Documents.) My general experience has been whenever you see some kind of odd output from ConvertXToDVD, it's the fault of the source file. The program has, of course, had problems in the past with conversions, but those are generally limited to when X.0 versions are released and the software is pretty much "brand new." I never understood the concept of rewriting something from the bottom up IF it already works!

As for DVD burning coming a long way, I got in on it in 2002, back when there was mostly just 1x DVD-R. DVD+R had just come out but even then it was either only 1x or 2.4x. And this was before buffer underrun protection was common, so you'd spend 59 minutes of an hour burn (A full DVD-R takes 60 minutes to burn at 1x.) and then have it fail at 99% completion! My first DVD-R burner was an old Panasonic with a tray designed to hold cartridges for those kinds of DVD-RAM discs. Yeah, I made the switch over to DVD+R after I used up my last inkjet printable DVD-R blanks. I still have branded DVD-R blanks for other burns I won't be keeping/temporary storage. So, now I use DVD+RW, DVD+R, and DVD+R DL for my DVD needs. I still have some older 4x DVD-RW for compatibility reasons and that there's only one company making 8x DVD+RW anymore. So, the next RW discs I will get will probably be 4x DVD+RW since Verbatim still makes DataLife Plus DVD+RW, but only at 4x.

VSO released another new update to VSO Downloader. Interesting how they keep updating that minor app yet don't seem too keen on doing anything to flagship progs like ConvertXToDVD or ConvertXToVideo. It's been over a year since the last gold release of ConvertXToVideo.

Amazon will generally be cheaper than buying the same thing, if you can find it, in brick and mortar stores. For instance, Office Depot in town sells some of the same Verbatim BD-R I buy off of Amazon.com. (Back when Amazon sold the 6x speed discs, which they don't anymore. They only sell the 16x ones now.) But, they only sell them in packs of 10. They're $17 for 10, where Amazon sells them for like $37 for 50 of them. Office Depot is good for a few if I need some in an emergency, but only in that case. Otherwise, I'll just buy a 50 pack from Amazon and have them sitting around until I use up the ones I currently have on hand. It's far more cost effective that way.

No, I think the 16x BD-R are newer stock. They have newer labels on the surface that say 16x instead of 6, but I believe to BD drives, they're still recognized as 6x media. Although the BDR-2209, which has been around for at least 5 years, writes at 16x so they acknowledge the 16x write descriptor.

Yeah, I've never heard of just plain DataLife before. DataLife Plus and Life Series are all I've ever encountered before. My guess is because you bought them in a brick and mortar store, you got the CMC junk. Try looking online like on Amazon.co.uk and see if you can find any other Verbatim kind besides DataLife/the ones you found. The brick and mortar store Life Series here in the States is the junk; the stuff found on Amazon.com is the quality media. However, given you live in a different country where I know they do different production runs of media, I couldn't say. Sorry.

Well, I'm not really sure what to recommend. In the US, Verbatim doesn't make CMC BD-R as far as I am aware. All the Verbatim BD-R I use are VERBAT-IM media, which is quality stuff, and they only make the one kind. With you being in the UK, I don't know what Verbatim releases BD-R wise, but apparently they do package CMC BD-R . Do you have a picture of the packaging I can see? Does it say Life Series anywhere on it? I looked it up and it slipped past me but Verbatim does release a Life Series BD-R. Anyway, avoid anything from Verbatim that says Life Series. Life Series is the media they sell in stores and is CMC junk. What you want says DataLife Plus or AZO on it (Although the quality Verbatim BD-R don't say that anywhere.) and can only be found online. Here's what I always get and it's quality stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSQ4DBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So, you'll want to find similar branding and/or labels on your discs. Here's the Life Series I found: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE8P62U1938&ignorebbr=1&source=region&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-E-boxes-_-Blu-Ray+Media-_-9SIAE8P62U1938&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkoDmBRCcARIsAG3xzl-PkSNMK3jJAEczEVIPU4HoF_9V8IrAUT3AiYH-oGNqaM9ihjRH_sAaAmpOEALw_wcB Does the packaging from the Life Series link above resemble the ones you have? Do they say Life Series on the packaging? Did you buy them in a brick and mortar store? Hope this helps!

Then simply dragging and dropping files/folders should be good enough for what you need. With something like Reflect, you can just simply restore a file and folder backup and it will restore the nested folder structure, too.

I'm not sure if you need an M-Disc drive to read a written M-Disc BD-R. I know with M-Disc DVD, as long as you have a drive that reads DVD+R, it will read M-Disc DVD's. I believe even standalone DVD movie players will play DVD Video discs burned to M-Disc DVD's if that player supports playing DVD+R. I believe M-Disc was specifically made for this kind of compatibility. So, I'd guess an M-Disc BD-R burned in an M-Disc capable drive would read on a standard BD drive. Be aware, of course, since you used a TL disc, you'd need a BD drive that supports reading TL media, and not all BD drives do. Of course, if you always buy an M-Disc capable drive, you won't have to worry about it not being able to be read back in. As for restoring, it depends on what you backed up and how you backed it up. If you used ImgBurn to just add files and folders to an image file job, then all you can do is use File Explorer to drag and drop the files/folders in Windows/File Explorer and replace the files in the destination if they already exist. If you're more concerned about restoring an entire drive from disaster, you'd be better off investing in a drive imaging application like Macrium Reflect (Which is what I use and also offers file and folder backups.) or True Image (Which I've used in the past but don't recommend any longer and it used to support file and folder backups 10 years ago when I last used it.). So, if you're looking to restore something like Windows, then Windows/File Explorer isn't the way to go as you can't just replace files in Windows/installed applications and expect it to work. You'd be better off served by an imaging application. And what you can do is create images to a local HDD and then use ImgBurn to copy these images to an M-Disc for archival purposes.

Yeah, game CD's sometimes won't read in with certain combinations of discs and drives with ImgBurn. It appears when there are multiple tracks, it can be problematic. When you're mixing one track of data and tracks of audio. That's why I keep Alcohol 120% Free lying around. On the rare occasions when I come across this.

Yeah, I've been using UDF (only) 2.60 for years now on Windows 10 for all my data file backups and they read fine. I only ever change the settings from my defaults when creating DVD Video or BD Video discs, and I let ImgBurn make the necessary changes for me when it prompts me for those media. In fact, BD Video may not even need changes, just DVD Video to UDF+ISO9660 1.02

BTW, there's no need to screen capture log window entries. What you can do is highlight the log entry text you want to post using the mouse or SHIFT and arrow keys, then right click on what you highlighted and select Copy then Paste it into a post entry on the forum.

You're using the bad Verbatim. CMC MAG is the kind used in Verbatim Life series discs. CMC is the worst junk out there. Granted, I've never heard of Life Series making BD-R. Or are you using BD-RE? I noticed the write speed was 2x, which means you could be using BD-RE which makes sense with the BD-RE since Verbatim BD-RE are CMC junk. If you're using BD-RE, try Panasonic's discs.

UFD 2.60 is "read only" in Windows 7/Vista/8/10, whatever that means. So, as long as you don't format the M-Disc as a giant floppy for future additions of files, which ImgBurn doesn't do, I don't see you'd have a problem reading it in Windows 7. But, to be safe, you could probably enable UDF 2.50, just to be sure, since that is both read and write enabled in Windows 7. You'd probably only encounter problems with older UDF and ISO9660 with filenames that contained odd characters, like Japanese.

Yes, I'd blame the UME discs, too. The only really good options for DL discs are Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO discs or TDK DL discs. Don't get the Verbatim Life series you find in stores. They'll be cheap CMC junk. You can only find the good stuff online.

Really, you won't have to worry about any setting for data backups to M-Disc. There's nothing special about M-Discs that requires any special changes to image file settings. It depends on what you're backing up. Depending on the file names and characters used in them, you may get by using ISO9660, but I'd recommend staying with UDF purely. Whenever I do data backups, I always use UDF 2.60. The discs read fine in Windows 10. You may not want to use UDF or such a newer revision if you want the discs to be readable on older versions of Windows that don't support UDF or the latest revision of UDF.

What is the maximum number of files allowed in a folder in an image Build job? Is it dependent on the file system chosen? Is it 9,999? Is it that Windows 10/NTFS has a maximum number of files allowed in a folder limit of 9,999? I thought there was some kind of file number limit to 9,999 at some point in history. Did a little digging. The maximum for NTFS is 4,294,967,295. But, what about ISO9660 or UDF on an optical disc? Thanks!

About my buying from NewEgg. I usually buy from Amazon.com, but sometimes there's no choice. For instance, Amazon.com rarely has the LG WH16NS60 available, but NewEgg does. Or it will be a case where the same reseller offers the same drive on Amazon.com and NewEgg, but sells it cheaper on NewEgg. It's not that NewEgg sells junk. The drive will be whatever it is when it arrives from the manufacturer. For instance, I want to get a WD 512 GB SDD HDD from Amazon.com, but they currently don't have it. Only resellers on Amazon.com do. So, I'll probably have to get it from NewEgg. NewEgg was the only seller who had the WD My Passport 4 TB portable mechanical USB HDD. Amazon.com didn't have it. And, of course, after I got mine from NewEgg, my local Target store had them on sale! But, the price was on par with what I paid for it on sale from NewEgg. I could have saved on the shipping, though.

I think you're barking up the wrong tree here. ImgBurn will only burn DVD's with VIDEO_TS folders you give it. So, Premiere Pro CC 2019 created a file for you, but you'll need to convert that file to some kind of VIDEO_TS DVD folder. You'll need something like ConvertXToDVD or similar conversion/encoding software to create a VIDEO_TS for ImgBurn to burn. Unless you just plan on putting this Premiere Pro file on a disc and you have a DVD/Blu-Ray player that will play container files. Then, it depends on what file formats your player supports. If that's the case, ImgBurn won't care what file format it is. What will matter is what kind of file systems your player supports from disc.

Especially if it's a modern application, which something from 2017 is, and it's installed with some kind of installation program, you can't just run the installer, copy over the installed files to a disc, and expect it to run. There's all kinds of Registry entries for various hooks and files that make it much more complicated to run software today versus 25 years ago.