dbminter

Yes, try Verbatim DataLife Plus media. Not the Life Series. The only thing worse than some Ritek is all CMC Magnetics.

I know nothing about Linux, but you say this installer for Linux is on an SD card? Are you trying to use ImgBurn to create an image of the SD card? If you are, ImgBurn won't do that. It's only for imaging optical discs. Otherwise, I don't know why you're asking a question on this in the ImgBurn Support forum. Are you trying to create a bootable image in Build mode with the contents from this SD card? That might be possible.

I actually had a Verbatim VERBAT-IM BD-R burn failure today! It's one of like the 1% failures I've had burning about a thousand of these over the years. Most of that failure rate was attributable to a dying burner that needed replacing. Yet, still, a small portion of that value was actual failure. I still remember the one that failed because it was apparently cracked shipped from the factory. It was pretty much cracked all the way across the diameter of the disc! So, for those who question whether it really is worth it to switch from CMC media to high quality Verbatim media, well, a 1% failure rate out of over a thousand speaks for itself, I think.

I know that there are no layer breaks on multiple layer BD media because the format simply treats all the layers as one giant layer, virtually. But, what about the pause in layer breaks on DVD-9 media when you don't use Seamless Layer Breaks? On DVD-9, if you don't use Seamless Layer Breaks, you get a pause in the video on DVD playback at the layer break. What about on multiple layer BD? Are there such things as pauses in the video when the BD player switches layers on a multiple layer BD that is playing back BD Video? I'm guessing not since there's no such thing as layer breaks on BD, but I don't know. Thanks!

I had to change a Registry setting to disable double clicking starting any application. So, you may not want to do that as any double clicking on an optical drive will only open Windows/File Explorer and nothing else. This may not be the solution for you. And you may not be comfortable editing Registry keys because you can really cause a lot of damage if you don't know what you're doing.

Good that that was the apparent solution. It's certainly the easiest fix, though not necessarily cheaper. And it generally solves more than 50% of the problems we see on this board.

I've tended to find Pioneers are better readers than some other brands of BD drives. For instance, my Pioneer 2209 has been much better at reading than my LG BD was. The 2209 would read in discs that the LG wouldn't.

What could happen is only if the image file you're burning from is on the same drive as the location of the game you installed it to/running it from. Not the same partition, but the same drive. If the game is intensive in reads from the same disc, ImgBurn could go into Waiting For Buffers To Recover mode. Burning will stop until the drive stops being accessed enough to a level for resuming burning. This is precisely to prevent writes from failing. However, if the game continues accessing the drive repeatedly, ImgBurn may never get out of waiting for the buffers to recover. Your only choices are to close the game down or stop the burning, which would mean you've wasted a disc.

Switching from CMC is, admittedly, not the absolute, 100% end all be all solution to a problem like this. However, over half of the problems we see on this board are caused by cheap media; CMC is the primarily culprit. So, it is generally the first recommended step to troubleshooting the problem. If it persists, obviously, there's something else going on and the author of the application might have to step in on this. I'm generally confident in the switching from CMC solution, though. Doesn't always work, but it's the first step I would always recommend when someone is using CMC media.

To check, insert a disc and open ImgBurn in Write mode. In the pane of information in the upper right, look for DID/MID/Disc ID/Manufacturer ID. This will tell you who actually made the disc. The ones you linked looked good to me, too, but you can't tell from the outside packaging for sure. Found some on Amazon.co.uk that do say DataLife Plus on the box. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01GVZ6LK0/ref=psdc_430452031_t3_B0047V24MA Here in the US on Amazon.com, the only DataLife Plus BD-R you find are inkjet printable ones. All the other Verbatim BD-R, the good stuff I've found, don't have the DataLife Plus label on them. Outside the US, Verbatim apparently does put out a DataLife Plus BD-R for branded discs.

Unfortunately, it's not just a case of picking X brand. You really won't know for sure if a particular product you buy is good or bad until you get some and check them in ImgBurn. Or someone posts the Manufacturer ID in an online review. I've never heard of those you linked so they're probably not very good. There's a reason the good stuff has a higher premium on its price. However, my experience with BD-R I just bought from Amazon.com in the US was $22 for 25 discs, a little over a buck a piece. Yes, you'll save on cheaper discs but pay for it in the long run when they don't last as long as the more expensive stuff or you find your player has a problem playing back the discs. However, I'm in the US so it's probably not unusual I've not heard of AOne from Amazon.co.uk. Actually, I've never found DataLife Plus BD-R from Verbatim. I just use the regular white discs with blue text on them. I've had like 1 failure in a thousand with those. They have the DID/MID of VERBAT-IM-xx and I've used them without problem for years. I would, of course, only recommend DataLife Plus Verbatim CD-R, DVD-R, and DVD+R DL. The Life Series is what Verbatim farms out to CMC Magnetics, the worst media manufacturer out there. I didn't know Verbatim made Life Series BD-R, though. Most people find when they switch from CMC media, their problems go away and don't require replacing their drive or getting an external one, which would be your only option since you don't want to replace your laptop's model. Your laptop model is most likely the problem anyway. It would be a slim line unit and slim models are junk. I would try switching to non CMC Verbatim first as that will most likely fix the problem. Though it probably won't help you not being in the United States, these are what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00471HK0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On my Pioneer 2209, it seems to have a little issue with Full Formats on Ritek 8x DVD+RW. If a Write is performed to an unformatted disc, ImgBurn wants to format it first, of course, and then perform the Write. However, what I think ImgBurn doesn't do is cycle the tray after Format before the Write. What happens on my Pioneer is if I don't fully Erase/Format the disc first BEFORE Writing, the Verify will always fail. If I Quick Erase the disc after the failed Write and reburn the same image again, it passes Verify. So, it seems to be that I need to eject the disc after each Full Erase/Format before performing a Write or the Verify will fail. With this mind, I'd like to recommend a Cycle/Eject Tray After Format/Erase option. I've been aware of this for a while but I keep forgetting to Full Format discs on their own when I perform a Write to unformatted media of this kind. So, I waste time with unsuccessful writes that will always fail Verify. Thanks! EDIT: You can probably forget this suggestion. It wouldn't do any good in my case. Turns out the first write to these Ritek media under the current firmware for the 2209 will ALWAYS fail Verify. I had formatted a disc and ejected it, reinserted it, and burned content to it, and it still failed to Verify. An immediate write of the same contents to the same disc in the same drive after cancelling off the failed Verify works. Yeah, Pioneer has, once again, borked the firmware for Ritek 8x DVD+RW in its update to 1.51! First, the leap from 1.33 to 1.34 totally destroyed the drive's writing to these discs or the Verify behavior, one of the two, because Verifies would always fail. 1.50 fixed this, but 1.51 has added a new angle! Now they've borked the drive's ability to fully format the media. When the 2209 formats the media, Verifies will ALWAYS fail under 1.51. If you take these same discs that fail, fully erase them in another drive, and then write the same image in the 2209 to the same disc that was failing Verify after fully erasing in another drive, the Verifies pass. So, the problem is, once again, Pioneer has messed up the firmware, this time with full erases.

Under Help choose ImgBurn Logs. The log file folder will be opened. Open the log file. Try to see if you can find these different I/O errors, particularly on 2x. Generally, write errors on higher speeds are usually more generally resolved by choosing slower write rates. If you're still getting errors at 2x, something is up that LUK would be more aptly to determining.

Yeah, I should have been clearer on that. I meant by that that I had failed to see the Test mode on my first perusal of the log. After you mentioned Test mode, I went over it again and saw what I had failed to see before.

The internal model being in an enclosure was grasping at straws, anyway. It wasn't a semaphore timeout error but it may have been possibly related... in my diseased mind, anyway. Oh, was he using Test Mode? I didn't see any indication in that log that he was.

Slower speeds are generally recommended anyway to avoid errors on writing.

Yes, that's a half height model. You can almost be absolutely sure by using the Eject and Close buttons in ImgBurn's Read/Write interface. If Close works after you have ejected the tray and you don't get an error indicating the tray couldn't be loaded, you've got a half height model. If you get an error message trying to Close the tray, you've got a slim model. I don't think slims can automatically Close. At least, the only model I've ever had can't. And, given their size, I doubt they have loading mechanisms built into them. So, since that seems to be a half height model, that can't be the cause. I can't say anything else beyond those two suggestions, sorry. Oh, wait, thought of something. This drive is internal, right? It's not external? If it's external, there is probably a definite cause for a timeout error. It won't apply to internal models, though.

You're using quality discs so that's not a problem. If I had to hazard a guess, is your DVD burner a slim model unit? If it is, slim model units are junk. If it's a slim model and not a half height unit, that is, most likely, your culprit. I couldn't find a picture of this drive anywhere in a cursory Google search, so I can't tell you if it's a slim model or not.

Wow, I have literally never heard of a Loss Of Streaming error before. Sorry. Have you always been using these Disc ID: MEI-T02-001 discs or are they new discs you're trying out that you've never tried before? Plus, your BD drive is probably an older one? Maybe it's just reached the end of its life cycle.

Check an .ISO file in Windows/File Explorer of a folder containing an .ISO. Make sure it's actually ImgBurn displaying the incorrect .ISO icon and not Windows itself. If the .ISO extension in Windows/File Explorer is displaying the correct icon, then it's definitely something in ImgBurn. Although, it's probably something LUK can't do anything about. There are a lot of "quirks" in file navigation in the programming language used to make ImgBurn. Microsoft or whoever made the programming interface would have to fix those.

Thanks for that image! It was quite helpful. So, whenever you see only a partially full burn on the bottom of a DVD+R DL, that means that that is Layer 0 that is not fully written to, correct? You won't actually be able to see Layer 1's condition?

With a DVD+R DL recordable disc facing up, so the recordable layer is visible on top, where is the location of Layer 0 in the disc? Is it closer to the label side on the opposite face or is it on top, just below where the recordable surface is visible? Thanks!

On one of the hosts, you probably clicked on a second party link to an installer that bundled something with ImgBurn.

You could burn with PBurn to a disc, read the burned disc with ImgBurn, and burn that 2nd image file with a different label. It's a little cumbersome, but it can be done that way if you really wanted to set your own labels.

Yeah, that gels with my experience. The only times I ever tried to overburn, they failed to pass Verify. That was years ago, though, so I don't remember the drive or the media, i.e. may have been a DVD-R I was attempting to overburn. I had one success with a CD that did overburn correctly.