dbminter

It's most likely not the drive that's died. You say it works for 2/3 of your attempts, but not on 1/3. In a case like that, that most likely means that for whatever reason, the drive doesn't like those discs and won't read them. Your best bet is to try another drive by another manufacturer. You wouldn't be able to tell it's a Windows configuration issue until you knew what the problem was. Therefore, you'd know it's a Windows configuration issue. Without a specific error message, and given it works on 2/3 of the discs you've tried, it's probably not that.

Does anything show up in ImgBurn with this Samsung drive? Any CD's, audio or otherwise? Does it recognize blank discs of anything besides DVD+R like CD-R for burning when inserted? If you're dealing with Master and Slave setups, you must have a fairly old model as I don't think they even have jumpers anymore for those settings. It may just be this drive is too old.

I'm curious as to why you rolled back the firmware of the LG drive to 1.02 over 1.03. I didn't find anything wrong with 1.03, since all 1.03 did was introduce anti-copying measures for 4K video. It did nothing to fix the many fatal flaws in that drive, of which there are, well, many. I like the NS60 model. I use it now over my Pioneer 2209 in the OWC enclosure versus the Vantec which is giving me many problems on my 2209. The NS40 has fatal flaws writing to BD-R/RE DL media.

I'm somewhat of a programmer, too; I majored in computer science. Of course, all we're doing is speculating until LUK chimes in with how, exactly, he approached the code. I've tended to notice things I've posted as issues/bugs with file navigation, access, etc. are generally unresolvable because they're down to how Microsoft implements them in Visual C++. Of course, I got my degree in 1996, so things have changed considerably in that time. You see, back in my day, we used to have these things called floppy disks...

I would say ImgBurn can't nothing do anything about the performance of how it handles files. That the slow access of smaller files is down to the file system on the source/target partition.

I wouldn't be surprised if it's the chipset or bridge in the enclosure. I've been having my own issues with Vantec enclosures on my Pioneer BD-209M. I keep getting failed BD-R burns and dropping communication with the device. But, my Other World Computing enclosure doesn't have these issues. Just its own.

Well, if you get errors on one drive with a CD-RW that you don't get with the same CD-RW in another drive, the problem is the drive. Could be something as simple as that drive doesn't like that particular manufacturer of disc. Or something more complicated and more difficult to troubleshoot. Of those media in that last post, the only one I recognize at all is the Mitsubishi one, which is the best CD-R out there. They make Verbatim's quality DataLife Plus/AZO CD-R and not the cheap CMC from Verbatim's Life Series. Since I don't recognize any of the other media manufacturers, I would be wary to call them quality.

Just best to wait for the disk thrashing to stop. In fact, burning will stop until the hard drive activity reaches a certain level. So, if you cancel burning, you will have a disc that is relatively useless. Unfortunately, all kinds of things could be causing access to the hard disk. Antivirus software is a good candidate. You can try putting the image you want to burn on a different partition than the one with Windows on it, which is what I do. Yah! 6,000th post!

BTW, using ImgBurn in conjunction with AnyDVD to rip DVD's has one fatal flaw. It's fine as long as the DVD isn't protected with structural copy protection. AnyDVD will tell you if they are such protected. If they are so protected, you should use AnyDVD's Rip to hard disk function for those kinds of DVD's. Ripping to ISO with ImgBurn may appear to work in that you'll get an image file, but the resulting image file may not actually be a playable DVD. That's why I always recommend using the Rip to hard disk function. If you make it a habit to do that, you will cover all your bases, including structurally protected DVD's. You'll just have to remember to copy any contents besides VIDEO_TS from the DVD's root directory over.

It's probably the fault of the slim model drive in the laptop. Slim models are absolute junk. You're using the high quality Verbatim discs, so that's not the issue. Unfortunately, the sad fact of the matter is slim model burners really are junk. But, that's all you can get in a laptop. Well, all you can get in ANYTHING now since they took half height bays out of a lot of modern cases now. Short of buying a half height burner and an enclosure for it to connect to the laptop via USB, you're probably pretty much screwed.

Sounds like your drive probably gave up the ghost. If you were successfully getting reads fine before and it suddenly starts up on every other disc, it's most likely the drive being the problem. You won't know for sure without replacing it. If you replace it and still get problems, then there's some kind of Windows configuration problem somewhere most likely.

About all you can do with a flash drive is create an ISO in Build mode of the contents. However, this won't be of too much use unless you want to install Windows from within Windows. There is a Guide somewhere, I think, that tell you how to create a bootable ISO from Windows install CD, but I don't know how that will translate to a flash drive, where you'd still need to extract the boot sector. If you're not concerned about booting the ISO you can, as I said, just use Build mode to copy over the flash drive contents to an ISO. However, you cannot copy this ISO to another flash drive. It will only copy to an optical disc like DVD. ImgBurn doesn't clone flash drives nor will it write to them.

OpenCandy is not a virus. AV software would flag it as a PUP, Potentially Unwanted Program. While it is an unwanted program, it's not a virus.

I think he'd find some shitty CMC Verbatim Life Series disc were what destroyed themselves. Of course, without a log...

Well, I've never heard of "Super AZO," but, in that 2nd link, all the other images of the boxes look pretty close to what I've seen on Amazon.com and what I've bought in 50 disc cake stacks. And, they don't say they're printable, so they're most likely branded. Until you actually buy them, you won't know for sure, but if I had to pull the trigger on this decision, I'd be relatively certain they're what I'd be looking for.

Without actually having bought them, I can't say, but it does say both DataLife Plus and AZO. So, it seems good to go. However, you may not need printable surface CD-R. You can still use them, of course, but without the proper printer, you can't print labels on their surfaces. And that printer type depends on what they mean by "printable." There are a few kinds, like inkjet, which is probably what they mean. As I said, you can still use them, but if you don't plan on printing to the label surface, you can save money by getting the branded AZO discs instead.

Try your country's version of Amazon and do a search for Verbatim AZO CD-R. If you can't find it under DataLife Plus, AZO is the same thing. Or, try any web store you buy from and search for Verbatim AZO CD-R.

Superior is a subjective statement. I say DVD-R was superior because when I needed DVD, I needed something that was compatible with DVD players. 15 years ago, DVD-R was more compatible with players than DVD+R. So, what if someone has an older player and needs to play one of my DVD's? Yes, the size differentiation is negligible except when it comes to ImgBurn build jobs where you can get a case, as I have, where DVD+RW was just slightly too small to hold a job.

It's not a power suspension issue. If it were, ImgBurn would lose the device totally from its device list, which doesn't happen. It's just a loss of communication issue. I disabled the setting, though, just in case, but it won't help.

If there's a Show Products button on a page, click it. The Buy Now button will take you to the Verbatim store, but I don't know if that's only for the United States or not. It depends on what you want. The AZO link doesn't have labels you can print to. The other pages link to pages with DataLife Plus CD-R you can print labels to, but there are different kinds depending on the printer you have. You can't just buy 5. You have to buy either 10 or 50.

Those two links are the same. And they're not Verbatim's web store, so I don't know if they will even send to your location. You can only get them in cake stacks of 50 or packs of 10. If it doesn't say DataLife Plus on them, they then need to say AZO on them. It's interchangeable.

Well, I booted into Safe Mode to test the Mercury Pro's unable to detect a powered on enclosured drive until the USB cable is removed and reinserted. I knew it wouldn't do any good since it didn't do any good on the factory default partition. And, I was right, as is usually the case.

It's not really a burning issue on the Mercury. The Mercury has problems detecting when media is inserted. It doesn't detect it's there. Except for the DVD+RW burn where WriteIn never took place at the start of the burn, so the burning speed is not an issue. The Vantec has some problems completing BD-R burns, but the Mercury does not. Which leads me more and more to believe it's the Vantec being problematic over the Mercury, despite its somewhat spotty behavior. However, both enclosures having problems leads me to wonder, though. Yet, each enclosure has different issues.

I thought it was, too! And I haven't seen a Touche Turtle cartoon since college, back when it reran briefly on the Family Channel. That would have been sometime between 1992 and 1996. So, about 25 years.

I don't know what I'd be looking for in the BIOS. A BIOS update was done on the 1st. I think something could be up in that. I didn't have the disconnecting the USB cable issue before that. Safe mode wouldn't really help since the issue is random. I wouldn't know if I got no bad results was the result of booting into safe mode or simply because I hadn't encountered the issue yet. I could test safe mode for the USB cable issue, I suppose. I have tested it by restoring my PC to its factory default image and the USB cable issue was still there.