crockettmann

Even if they realize it's crap, they've jacked the price up twice to do this. I'm still having good luck on Ritek RiData G05's and TYG03's that I'm getting from Meritline for well about $37 per 100 including shipping. My scans have all been in the 97-99% range.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, POLO!!!!

Good point, chewy. I read that it was a laptop yesterday, but guess it slipped my mind today. Just gettin old, I guess

I had a similar problem about 2 weeks ago. Even though I had previously been able to run UDMA mode 5 on the hard drive and 4 on the burner, they reverted to UDMA2 on both. I tried everything posted here (found a DMA link in Blutach's sig ), but it turned out to be my cables. I don't know if they just degenerated or I did something farting around in the case, but I replaced them with new ones I got from Newegg. The reviews on the cables were "iffy" and for some reason I had to try a couple times to get it to boot up, but my machine is now back to full throttle. You can get 5 cables for about the same cost as 2, because there is a bulk discount on both the cables and shipping, but caution- the 18" cables are a real stretch fit from the mobo to the slave connector. You can look around, because they are also available in 24" and 36".

I just found out this week I could flash mine to a 1653. Supportin' 5 kids here, so not a lot left for new toys, but my feeble little system doesn't do too bad. Appreciate all of the help here, this forum ROCKS!!!

Thanks a bunch, chewy. I guess these look a lot better, huh?

I think this will work as a quick fix. I guess I should have remembered that the snapshot tool was there for something, huh? Can't find the .ibg for the second one, but they have all looked the same recently since I got my DMA working correctly again

I don't believe I have those priviledges yet, chewy. I tried attaching a graph and it says "Upload failed. You are not permitted to upload a file with that extension." I clicked on "add this attachment", etc. Am I going about it the wrong way?

I'm getting fairly consistent scans with RITEK G05's and TYG03's. I'm using a Lite-On SOHW 1653S (CSOT) (crossflashed from a 1633S). My drive doesn't scan jitter, but I seem to almost always get only one (on rare occasion two) PIF that is high (about 160) at almost the same point in the graph,right after the 1.5GB mark. The rest of the graph shows a small group of PIF's at about 5, and most of the rest under 2. My burn graphs at 4X show speeds almost as straight as an arrow. But why the one spike, which results in an overall quality rating of about 70-80%?

HAPPY BIRTHDAY,DB!!! Hope you plan to go out and enjoy it after you heal

I have the same burner, and was wondering if it could be flashed to anything else, as I have noticed several references to flashing other burners like Pioneer to Benq, etc. Is the Lite-on strictly that, or is it just the firmware?

I, too, never push my burn speds, but am trying to get better ripping speeds. Please help clarify something for me though. I get better ripping and burning speeds with my burner hooked up as primary slave, but then I think I remember LUK! saying that the burner shouldn't be on the same channel as the OS. Did that mean that it NEEDS to be on the secondary IDE cable, and why does mine seem to work faster? My hard drive is formatted into two partitions, "C" with the OS and "F" just for working space. The ripped files are sent by default to the Drive with the most available space, and I usually "Shrink" them to the other HD. To sum up, my questions are: 1-Should the burner be on a different IDE cable than the hard drive? 2-Should I be crossing partitions when encoding? 3-Should I keep the files on a completely different partition than the OS?

Of course, the cost would have to be insubstantial compared to the cost of the actual library that was backed up. Since there is nothing wrong with making backups of your personal library for the sake of protecting one's investment, I think it is money well spent.

I recently had a very similar problem, just after I let my Musicmatch Jukebox install a new plugin, which was video based (visualizations). I uninstalled the jukebox and everything was back to normal, so I installed an earlier version for now. I haven't found the time to make it a priority over burning, so I haven't bothered with it since, Maybe it has something to do with Windows media player. Check your restore points to see if you have any good ones since your new install and maybe give them a try.

Most people who want to get into this area are lazy and gullible and don't do much research on the topic besides popular public opinion . Plenty of other software is still being marketed out there as something that will do the job all by itself. i.e. the "Platinum" one is sold at surplus stores online as "The BEST DVD Software ever Sold !!!" mostly because it made headlines as the first one to fold. Meanwhile other, more dedicated people stood their ground much longer, and for FREE

Happy Birthday, Zacoz! and many more

I agree, we will all live on with fond memories of our dear departed friend, but I only joined recently and it was clear as day that this subject was to be left alone. It would be nice if other newbies would read around first before pitching a fit. LUK, maybe you can put a few more flags about this during the registration process to get through to the really dense ones. Perhaps "Don't bother registering if you have any questions about RIPPING", or something of that nature. I appreciate all of your hard work and support in this forum, and think you have a very talented group of people here. You have all shown amazing restraint and courtesy when dealing with several RUDE newbies since I have joined.

In my last post were two links that I meant to stand out better, so my point was "Taiyo Yuden Value DVD-R"? (100 Pack Taiyo Yuden 4X DVD-R Media 4.7GB Silver Lacquer Blank DVDR Disc (DVD-R47VAL600SK), $0.24 Each). I think I'll have to try them nonetheless.

Appreciate the info, polopony. Has Taiyo-Yuden been known to use bad dye? Reason I'm asking is here Meritline and it sounds too good to be true, but Meritline offers good customer satisfaction. I remember about a year ago reading that Ricoh had a bad rep with their media, but don't remember if anything was said about TY. I heard that after the scrutiny, RICOH RIDATA brand got their rep back and I've had good luck with them. I usually can get 100 for $36.99 US with free shipping and rarely have a bad burn. Meritline I started checking them recently with DVD Info Pro and the results are fairly good overall, though I'm just starting to learn to read the graphs.

Not trying to get off track here, but I have been curious overall about the +/- thing. when I started burning I got + (4.5's) and had dubious success. Then I was told that - works best in most players. I haven't tried DL yet, but am still using DVD-R's (Ritek Ridata's, though you have been putting doubts in my head recently)

Thanks, chewy. After reading your comments, I had to try it (not normally being a very trusting soul) and found some unwanted guests that have since been evicted. GOOD CATCH!!!

I followed you except fo the SW3 and multithreaded parts, Chewy.

Thanks again guys. I tried it last night and saw what you were talking about. So how long is a good time for converting the average dual layer (DVD-9) file into a 4.5G file with Shrink for burning? Seems the encoding part takes my machine almost 1-1/2 hrs. I have an Athlon XP 2000 that normally runs at 1240Mhz. I'm still working on getting it up to full speed (almost there) without crashes.

Thanks, Shamus. I thought I noticed that the MDS file was small. Is it just info that uses the ISO or what? Also, I was wondering... I went through all the trouble to make sure my ASPI layer was correct when I first started learning to burn, but notice that in Imgburn settings I am using the default SPTI. Am I supposed to change to ASPI?

That clears it up some for me, but how would I use the ISO and MDS both? I'm not into burning Dual Layer yet when I can fit them on DVD-5's and still be happy with the quality, but eventually I'll get there.