Jump to content

ThaCrip

Members
  • Posts

    130
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ThaCrip

  1. I see. that's nice and all that the mfg actually did something, but assuming what I had was not a bad batch, then somewhat older DVD burners might not like current Verbatim DVD-R media and I can't imagine they will release any more firmware updates for older drives at this point in time. but off the top of my head... you would think DVD media would not really change in the last decade or so since the technology has been mature for probably a good 10-15 years now.
  2. Honestly, I would not be surprised if the media has changed and your burner does not like them given my experience not long ago as I probably have a similar burner as you do. because I got a batch of Verbatim DVD-R 100-pack within the last year or two from Amazon and had to send it back due to so-so burn quality (while the small amount of burns I did were still technically readable(passed ImgBurn's 'verify'), besides one, KProbe scan showed burn quality was so-so compared to their usual standards) and I have the same type of discs (same media code and everything) I bought back in Jan 2014 and those still burn well on the same two burners I had a long time now (i.e. Liteon iHAS-324B(which I think I got in 2011 as I initially primary got this for XBox360 game burning))/Sony Optiarc 7240s(I had this since about 2009)). so I would assume something has changed, or maybe I happen to get a bad batch etc. but that experience was beneficial for me as now I got a rough idea how bad a KProbe scan has to be before outright read failure will occur on the disc (the one that failed to 'verify' on ImgBurn) since I scanned that particular disc. but I see the OP is trying to burn 'Windows'. the newest Windows 10 ISO's have not been small enough to fit on DVD media for years now so I just use a multi-boot USB stick to directly load ISO's. Windows 7 SP1 ISO will fit on a regular DVD but if you update that same Windows 7 ISO so it's got all updates as to about Jan 2023, it's too large to fit on a regular 4.7GB DVD. p.s. but once I got a refund and sent those back I found some new old stock of Verbatim 8x media (MCC 003) on Ebay and those burn pretty much as expected (there is some fluctuation in burn quality but it's still much closer to higher burn quality than low burn quality). EDIT: I just noticed the brand on the OP's is generic. so I would probably lean towards that being the problem. still, it's possible even going with brand name (Verbatim DVD-R etc), unless I got a bad batch, might not like that burner since it's probably similar enough to my iHAS324B. While that's probably generally okay if your burner likes your media, anything I care about I don't really take a chance and make sure it scans well with KProbe (basically similar to DiscSpeed) since that's a bit more accurate way to gauge burn quality. because if it's in the ball park of a higher quality burn, then it just buys you that much more time should the disc start to degrade over the years before the DVD burner/reader itself will fail to read the data on the disc. because if ones burn quality is so-so to begin with it will probably fail that much quicker. another semi-quick test one could probably do it get a rough indication of burn quality, assuming they don't want to use KProbe/DiscSpeed, is just copying the data back from the disc to the computer. like if it slows down during the copy, then that's a rough indication that at least that DVD burner/reader is at least slightly struggling to read it. because generally if a KProbe/DiscSpeed test shows it's got solid burn quality, chances are when you copy data from the disc back to hard drive it will read it with no slow down etc. so I guess it just depends on how important ones data is on how far they want to take things in this regard whether a simple burn/verify with ImgBurn is enough, or they want to take it a bit further with more details on KProbe/DiscSpeed etc.
  3. The way I see it is this... M-DISC are supposed to be good for long term storage. but even if we assume that is true, given their really inflated costs, I would argue regular quality DVD recordable media (i.e. Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden) are overall better since they are still high enough quality that those are unlikely to fail for decades, or at least the foreseeable future given I have DVD discs around 10-15 years old and they still scan well with KProbe (which is a disc quality checking program to give you a pretty good idea of the burn quality of the disc). basically there is little to no degradation since I burned them about 10-15 years ago (I date all of the discs I burn so I know precisely when I burned media) and given my experience from not all that long ago with a batch that did not like my burners I got a pretty good ball park figure on how bad a KProbe scan has to be before a DVD burner will struggle to read it and my discs burn 10-15 years ago (even some others more recently etc) are still far from coming close to that point to where a read issue would be likely to occur. so basically I would expect these disc to still be easily readable in at least another 10-20+ years from now and could be well beyond that for all I know. but even if we only got say 30-40 years, that's a large portion of a persons lifespan anyways. I tend to use hard drives for my general data backup, but I do use DVD for a more limited amount of high importance data. note: I generally store my media in a room (out of any obvious sunlight, especially direct sunlight) and the room does see some level of humidity here and there and the room they are in, in the summer time, probably see's temps around 80-85f (or about 27-29c) as while the general house has AC, that particular room is so-so. bottom line... I would recommend using standard quality media (Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden) over M-DISC in general. M-DISC might be okay for a very limited amount of super high importance data if you got money to burn though.
  4. Possible. but I would guess quite unlikely given the age of USB 1 devices at this point as you would probably have to have a computer no newer than early 2000's tops which at this point would be fairly ancient as pretty much everything will be slow on those devices at this point in time (as I would guesstimate for a more 'usable computer' anything older than mid-to-late 2000's is probably straight up ancient nowadays as just about all tasks will be painfully slow. but not only that, but at about 1MB/s (USB 1) that would take a rather long time to burn a DVD and would be obvious something is not right even to non-tech types especially given the OP mentioned that his computer (I am assuming main computer) copies a DVD in around 10 minutes. USB 1 would be well beyond that. anyways, the rest of what you said should pretty much bottom line things for the OP. p.s. the last computer I had with USB 1 range USB ports was a computer from 2001 as my next one I built in March 2006 (it was pretty much high end 2005 motherboard tech) had USB 2 ports. even my current main PC (I bought motherboard in May 2012) only comes with USB 2 ports but I got a add-on PCI-E x1 card to get USB 3 on it.
  5. Well if you are burning data to a DVD from a external hard drive, even a USB 2 connection should be able to keep up since it's got about 30MB/s transfer rate which I am pretty sure exceeds DVD write speeds as 16x DVD write is about 22.2MB/s. so the buffer should not be a issue off the top of my head. but one quick question... on the '2nd hand old laptop', how long does it take to complete a burn? because this will give you a good indication of whether the buffer is truly a problem or not. since I can't see log, taking a guess, the laptop is probably about 8x burn speed on DVD discs. p.s. but if you just bought a second hand laptop, I would definitely wipe the drive and start fresh (with Windows 10 (possibly Linux depending on how old it is and what you want to do with it)) to guarantee everything is in good running order as you never know what the previous owner has on it with potential viruses etc. it's the only way I would trust using it with anything sensitive online. but since you said tech is sort of like hieroglyphics for you, then I am guessing this might be somewhat difficult for you to do.
  6. Yeah, I keep anything of importance in FLAC format to as it's always a reliable high quality source if you need to convert to a lossy file from. but on-the-go I tend to use MP3 @ V5 (130kbps average) as it's good enough quality and efficient with storage space and widely supported. p.s. standard Audio CD's (16/44.1) will never get outdated either simply because even at that rate it's already exceeding human hearing. so all of those "HD" or "hi-res" audio files/formats are purely marketing junk and just a waste of storage space as I always keep all of my lossless audio in standard 16/44.1 format since it's less space then "HD" audio and quality is CD level quality which will never get outdated.
  7. With 320kbps that's high enough to where most if not a high percentage of people won't be able to tell the difference between the lossless(FLAC etc) and lossy(MP3 etc) files. so even though it's more proper to use FLAC(or any lossless format) when creating a standard audio CD, you are ultimately good at the end of the day. I create MP3's from FLAC with Foobar2000 (with the 'encoders pack' installed) but I use the V5 (130kbps average) setting since it's more quite storage space efficient (I realize storage space is cheap nowadays, but it's more of the thought of it though) and sound quality is high enough to where I would bet most people won't notice any difference as while 320kbps is good sound quality wise (it's the highest possible MP3 setting), it's a waste of storage space and is inefficient since you can get basically the same sound quality but at noticeably less bit rate. but generally speaking if you are using MP3, I suggest using V5 (130kbps average) or if you prefer to play it a bit safer V2 (190kbps average) is a safe bet as it's probably a good balance of file size/sound quality with MP3 erring on the side of sound quality. but V0 (245kbps average) is the highest of the variable bit rate settings as there is pretty much no need to go beyond that at the very most with MP3. granted, I realize if you can't re-rip from FLAC then what you got is what you got though as it's best to just leave them as they are since it's generally best avoided converting from lossy to lossy since it will just further degrade the MP3 files etc. p.s. to get ImgBurn working on Linux, you have to tweak things a bit though (but after this you just load up the program and use it like usual). but the gist of it is when loading up ImgBurn, Wine (Wine is basically a program for Linux that allows some Windows programs to run on Linux) has to be set to WinXP mode and on Wine versions newer than about the v4 series when loading up ImgBurn you have to adjust 'Tools > Settings > I/O' and on 'Interface' select 'SPTI - Microsoft' and for 'SPTI - Device Enumeration Method' you select 'Device Interface' (or 'Drive Letter') and press okay then ImgBurn will now see your CD/DVD etc burners. if you don't use the 'WinXP' mode on Wine, ImgBurn will immediately hang upon loading on Linux. I suggest setting up ImgBurn through PlayOnLinux as it keeps it separated from the system installed Wine, but this is optional as you can use the system installed Wine if you want to (which no Wine software is installed on Linux by default). Yeah, I heard about that. but, at least on Linux, I don't think add-ons like that work, at least to my knowledge. which is why I just convert to standard WAV (with Foobar2000) which ImgBurn can use natively with no additional stuff required.
  8. Use ImgBurn on Linux instead if you need certain audio file formats it's easy enough on Linux as you can use Foobar2000 on Linux as that's what I use for general audio playback/conversion. but when burning a standard audio CD on Linux with ImgBurn (I even overburned some standard audio CD's by 2min15sec (so total of 82min15sec) and work well. but the amount you can overburn will vary from brand of CD-R as I am using your standard cheap Verbatim CD-R with CMC Magnetics media code as these are the furthest I overburned CD-R's successfully), I suggest temporarily converting your audio files (preferably from FLAC since it's optimal with no sound quality loss) to WAV since ImgBurn can directly use standard WAV format without issue on Linux. like when I burn a standard audio CD with ImgBurn on Linux, I always convert to standard WAV format first temporarily (from my FLAC audio files) as ImgBurn will work without any problems then. but like dbminter said, you basically create standard audio CD's in ImgBurn from "Tools > Create CUE File...". then you can drag-and-drop WAV files into ImgBurn, select whatever options you want, save the cue file, then 'Mode > Write' and drag-and-drop CUE file in here and burn is the basic idea. p.s. when burning standard audio CD's it's always best to burn from FLAC files instead of MP3 for optimal sound quality since FLAC is a lossless format where as MP3 is not. granted, a decent bit rate MP3 will probably still be 'good enough' when burned back to a standard audio CD for most people though. but if all you have is MP3, there is nothing you can do at this point but just convert them back to WAV and then burn on Linux through ImgBurn.
  9. Some Blu-Ray players can directly play MKV (h264) files as I have one that can read them from a USB stick (and I would assume a disc to but I never tried from a disc off the top of my head) but I had to format the USB stick as NTFS file system as exFAT etc did not seem to work. I got a Samsung Blu-Ray player. but I typically don't use this and just use a under powered laptop I got to play back MKV files on the TV through HDMI instead.
  10. I tend to agree with dbminter. it's very unlikely your new discs have been written to. you can try the I/O stuff as I have to change that ('Tools > Settings > I/O' and then change from 'ASPI' to 'SPTI - Microsoft' and on 'SPTI - Device Enumeration Method' I use 'Device Interface' (or 'Drive Letter')) since I am using Linux (Mint 21.1-Xfce) otherwise ImgBurn won't see my CD/DVD burners by default. I suggest you try the following as this should help confirm whether it's a Windows issue or DVD burner issue... download Linux Mint 21.1-Xfce ISO (this one for example... "mirrors[.]layeronline[.]com/linuxmint/stable/21.1/linuxmint-21.1-xfce-64bit.iso") and make a bootable USB stick (you can use Rufus (free software) to make a bootable USB stick with that ISO file), boot to Mint, and once it boots to desktop then insert a blank DVD into your burner and close the drive, wait some odd seconds, and then check the file manager in Mint as it should show something like 'Blank DVD+R Disc' under the 'Devices' section on the left side area of file manager (see my small screenshot posted below). I figure if you experience this, chances are something is out of whack on Windows 11. note: don't worry this won't touch your current Windows installation as this is safe to do as once you reboot, it will be back to how things are currently for you. this would be a decent way to test to see if anything is out of whack on your current Windows install that's preventing ImgBurn etc from working properly. because if it still reacts the same way on Mint, I would lean towards your CD/DVD burner itself is probably the issue. if not, something on Windows 11 is out of whack. honestly, I won't be surprised if it's simply a Windows 11 issue. p.s. I suggest using Windows 10 in general (which is supported until Oct 2025) since it's less likely to cause issues from what I have heard. but it's your call if you want to stick to Windows 11 or not. I dumped Windows for Linux Mint in Jan 2019 (the limited amount of windows games/software I use work on Linux Mint) and given the direction Microsoft is headed with Win11 etc I am all the more happy I dumped Windows as Mint's interface is clean without the bloat etc. but I understand not everyone can do this as there might be windows software that they cannot go without and does not work on Linux through Wine. anyways, you can see Windows goes in cycles with 'good/bad/good/bad' and right now Windows 11 is part of the 'bad' cycle which has held true since at least Win98 to date (Win98(good),WinME(bad),WinXP(good),WinVista(bad),Win7(good),Win8(bad),Win10(good),Win11(bad?)). but it does seem likely Win11 won't reach the wide adoption that Win10 has given current market share... Win10 = 68%. Win11 = 17%. for measure... Win7 still has 11% and it's not had support officially since Jan 2020. you could basically say there have only really been three dominate/widely used OS's from Microsoft over the last 20 years or so... WinXP/Win7/Win10.
  11. SMALL UPDATE: while ImgBurn etc still basically works on Mint 21.x series (which was released in about mid-2022 and is supported until April 2027), I noticed there seems to be a small issue on PlayOnLinux through Mint 21.x series (that was not there on Mint 20.x series) where, for example, when you start up PlayOnLinux, on the main program window if you click the 'Configure' you will notice that on certain tabs (mainly 'Wine' and 'Miscellaneous') that certain things are cut off/not currently visible like it should be and it always stays like this everytime you load up the program (until you manually adjust it, which works temporarily). so it's a small inconvenience that you always have to use the mouse on say the top of the 'PlayOnLinux configuration' window for example and drag it up at which point you can now see everything normally (or, optionally, just maximize that window to see everything). (small side note: I am currently still using Wine v6.0.1(32bit) for use with ImgBurn currently on Mint 21.1-Xfce) but here is some screenshots to show you exactly what I mean (the narrow one that cut off icons one should be able to see is what the program always does everytime you load it up (which this was not a issue on Mint 20.x) but the pictures you can see everything one is supposed to see are after I put mouse pointer on top of that open window and held left click and moved mouse up which stretches the open window so one can see everything now like it should be in the first place)...
  12. Personally I think the 'Windows Store' is pretty much useless junk if you ask me (it would be better off being completely removed from Windows as it's just unnecessary bloat). I prefer traditional ways of installing software where you just go to a website, download a .exe, install it and use. p.s. but in all honesty, I dumped Windows for Linux in Jan 2019, so 4 years ago now. so basically I used Windows from 1995 until Jan 2019 (basically Windows v3.11 through Windows 10) on my primary computers etc. the small amount of games (Mafia series/RDR2 etc) and Windows software (Foobar2000/ImgBurn etc) I use works fine on Linux.
  13. If you are just trying to 'burn files' (assuming these are just data files you want to backup) to a CD or DVD use 'Mode > Build' in ImgBurn. then on 'Output' select 'Device' (then you can simply drag-and-drop files into the ImgBurn window, adjust whatever settings/burn speed you prefer etc, then burn it is the basic idea here). NOT 'Mode > Write' which is for burning image files like .iso/.cue+.bin etc. but so things are clear... what precisely are you trying to do? p.s. but in one of your pictures there is only about 154MB there which is not much.
  14. It appears you got a laptop DVD burner. those tend to be worse/more picky than desktop burners (so if you have trouble burning certain kinds of CD's etc, that's probably why). what CD's are you trying to use? but you cut off the image to the right which shows more info. can you post another picture showing the whole ImgBurn window there?
  15. Maybe the drive is just stuck. I would reboot, which should free it up, then see what happens.
  16. I never used Windows 11 (it's got artificially high requirements and seems to force online account BS etc(I am aware there are ways around this though, but one should not have to jump through hoops for basic stuff)) but I can't imagine ImgBurn will have any issues on Windows 10 and Windows 10 is supported until Oct 2025. besides about 70% of people are still using Windows 10 where as Windows 11 only has about 16% of the market. Windows 7 still has about 10% and it's been nearly 3 years since Microsoft stopped supporting it (Jan 2020 when they stopped supporting it). if you play games, Windows 10 is the safer choice right now as you are more likely to have issues on Windows 11 currently from what I heard. personally I suggest sticking with Windows 10 for a while as it's still basically THE standard as far as Windows goes. then in the future, if you have to, then you can go to Windows 11, or whatever else becomes the new Windows standard. p.s. but if in the future ImgBurn stops working on Windows, it does work on Linux. I use it on Linux (currently Linux Mint v21.1-Xfce) myself. but to get it working on Linux it take a little more effort as Wine (which is software for Linux that allows some Windows programs to work on Linux) must be set in WinXP mode (otherwise the program will hang upon loading) and on ImgBurn itself to go 'Tools > Settings > I/O', on 'Interface' select 'SPTI - Microsoft' and under that where it says 'SPTI - Device Enumeration Method' switch it to 'Device Interface' (or 'Device Class') and it will work as without doing that SPTI stuff, ImgBurn will fail to see your CD/DVD etc drives. I currently have ImgBurn using Wine v6.0.1(32bit) (64bit works fine to but I use the 32bit since it uses less storage space) setup through PlayOnLinux software. but once you do this, using ImgBurn is as simple as running it from the desktop shortcut.
  17. 'Mode > Write' then simply select the ISO file you want to burn (from 'Source' part, click that folder icon to the right of 'Please select a file...') and load it here. or simply drag-and-drop your ISO file into this window, then select burn speed etc, then process to burn it to CD/DVD.
  18. Glad it's working for you but, given my last post, I just wonder if the root cause of your issue is the hard drive is not getting power? because I would definitely use a standard way to power your hard drive and see if the board see's it. because that would make sense for both of your motherboards not seeing known working hard drives if the hard drive is not receiving power as you said, "even the hard drive is not connected to the SATA power connector, but connected to a USB bable such as USB to SATA cable." do you have a picture or link to the exact device you are using to connect to your hard drives? ; either way, I would power a standard desktop hard drive directly from a SATA power cable from the PSU (power supply) and see if the motherboard see's the hard drive (and obviously connect the SATA data cable to).
  19. I would just close out of it and open as needed like people typically do. I only keep mine open during use as I don't really see a real reason to keep ImgBurn always running as a web browser is something I typically keep always (or almost always) running since that's used often and makes more sense there. I use ImgBurn on Linux as I suspect whatever happens on Windows (like if ImgBurn ever stops working on newer Windows versions), ImgBurn will probably continue to work on Linux for many years to come since people can just load up older versions of Wine if they need to (I run mine through PlayOnLinux using Wine v6.0.1(32bit)(64bit works fine to but the wineprefix container takes up less space so I opt for the 32bit version instead). but on Linux, Wine has to be set to WinXP mode and needs to change from default ASPI to SPTI within ImgBurn options for it to work (basically without setting Wine to WinXP mod it will hang upon startup and without the ASPI to SPTI change it won't see your CD/DVD etc burners on Wine versions past v4 series basically). but after that it works well enough. I still prefer ImgBurn over other native Linux burning apps.
  20. I figure at the very least, it's still the best alternative to hard drives for long term data storage at a reasonable price, at least DVD recordable. what puts me off BD-R is initial costs and it's a bit less time proven as CD/DVD is and a lot less people have drives that can read BluRay discs where as just about anyone with a drive that can read optical media will read CD/DVD. so as long as someone does not have many TB's of data to backup, standard DVD is pretty good for a more limited amount (like say less than 1TB or so) of data storage. I don't burn much to CD/DVD anymore but I still do for a limited amount of higher importance data backup.
  21. I just generally manipulate basic audio data with Foobar2000. Foobar2000 is my 'go to' program for listening to music (FLAC/MP3/AAC/Opus etc) and basic conversion (i.e. lossless (FLAC etc) to lossy(MP3/AAC etc)). it even works on Linux (setup through Wine) even though it's a Windows program. but it just depends on how picky someone is with keeping the copy as close/identical to original as possible. but generally speaking once you get audio in FLAC format you can keep these files for long term storage since the audio is identical to the actual audio CD (assuming it was ripped from a actual audio CD in the first place). so if you burn a basic audio CD using these files, the audio quality will be the same as your original audio CD. but for more audiophile/picky types of people... EAC (Exact Audio Copy) is the standard people use to make a proper copy of general music CD's. but even with this... in the real world, there is basically no noticeable differences here in terms of the audio quality of the music, assuming your CD drive read the music data half way decently in the first place when making your WAV/FLAC files. like say you ripped a song to WAV/FLAC format with a random program and then used EAC to do the same, there is no noticeable difference in audio quality since it's a lossless format at the end of the day. I guess with EAC it might be less likely a read error would occur on the disc, but still, a typical audio CD and typical CD/DVD drive should be able to read these decently to where this is not likely to be a issue. personally if I was to rip my original audio CD's, I would probably use EAC to get the basic WAV/FLAC data off of them, but then dump the excess details that the cue file stores with gaps etc which is not really needed anyways unless you are more of a perfectionist. but I think for the most part there is not many whole albums that just about every song is good on them. so when I burn audio CD's from time to time in fairly recent memory I just tend to make custom CD's using FLAC files as sound quality will be as good as original CD anyways since it's a lossless format at the end of the day. p.s. but for a basic copy, I would assume what dbminter said summed it up.
  22. While I am just one person, all of my drives still work and nearly all are still in use installed in either my primary PC or backup computer. but in all honestly, I don't burn stuff regularly anymore, but a little here and there, mostly occasional high importance data backup or a standard AUDIO CD (which ill sometimes overburn a bit past 80min if I need to) from time-to-time and I got plenty of burnable media that I am sure ill be set for the foreseeable future. I am not sure how many discs my CD/DVD burners have burned on each burner but I would guess some of my older CD/DVD burners are probably over a hundred discs at least and could be hundreds of discs over the years, especially if you count burning CD-RW/DVD+RW types of discs as a burn. so as a ball park figure, 100-500 burns on my more heavier used burners. but any burners that seen any real use from me probably have a minimum of 50-100 burns on them. I first got into CD burning in I am pretty sure it was 1998 as it was a Memorex burner, I think 2x2x6 speed, but I never kept this for long etc as I don't even remember what happened to it but I suspect it was left in a old computer (Pentium 133Mhz) I eventually got rid of at some point (because I know in those days my first computer in general was 1995, then 1996, then 2000, then 2001, then 2006, then 2012 is the gist of all of the desktop computers I ever owned). but putting this aside (as I think I might have temporarily used that Memorex 2x2x6 and might have swapped it for something similar briefly back in the day) I basically still have all of my other CD/DVD burners as shown below... My two CD burners I still have... -HP 8x4x32 CD-RW (IDE) drive which has a mfg date of May 2000. I even played with this a bit in the last year or two by connecting it to one of those external SATA/IDE to USB3 devices and it worked with ImgBurn. but this burner basically collects dust even though it does work as I tested one of my CD-RW discs on it. -Liteon 24102b (24x10x40x) CD-RW (IDE) drive. has a Dec 2001 mfg date I think which probably means I have had it since 2002, so 20 years now. I would say this was my first quality CD burner I got and the last one I bought to. I remember this could copy 'SafeDisc v2' copy protection in the old days. I have only owned 3 DVD burners and all still work... -Liteon 1673s (IDE) (my first DVD burner). I got this in 2005. -Sony Optiarc 7240s (SATA) (my second DVD burner). I think this is from 2009 or so. -Liteon iHAS-324B (SATA) (my third DVD burner). I think this is from 2011 or so. but out of the three DVD burners the first two most likely have the most burned discs on them as I mainly bought the iHAS-324B for XBox360 backup years ago and only fairly recently started to use it to burn certain discs I have (new old stock of Verbatim 8x (MCC 003)) since it seems to be the best of the three DVD burners I got on these media. but the Verbatim DVD-R and DVD+R 16x rated discs I had quite a few years ago (and still have much of these discs left from roughly a decade ago without checking) burns well on the 7240s and I would assume the iHAS-324B to and maybe even fairly well on the old drive from 2005. but I know some discs I have the drive from 2005 is the worst burn quality as shown by KProbe. basically the 24102b/1673s is still in my backup computer (since it's got IDE ports) and the 7240s/iHAS-324B are in my primary PC.
  23. Yeah, I understand. personally I use Firefox as my primary browser but I have Chromium installed as a backup. p.s. but for whatever it's worth, Chrome is the dominate browser in general as on the desktop(or laptop) about 66% of the planet uses this according to market share statistics online. Yeah, I see what you mean since the only more major components you took from the old setup are basically the CPU/RAM as the rest is basic stuff and should not really matter as it should be okay. This makes me wonder if this is possibly the root cause of your problem. because if the hard drive is not getting any power, the motherboard won't see the hard drive. I would definitely try connecting STANDARD SATA power (from your PSU(power supply)) and data cables(standard SATA cable) to the hard drive just to ensure this is not a issue and then boot to BIOS and see if it see's the hard drive or not. That RAM testing program basically tells you the health of the RAM. basically it should find no errors if the RAM is good. if it even finds one error, the RAM could be faulty (at least in that setup). Yeah, I think there is a way to install Linux to a flash drive and run the entire OS from that, while it being able to save your settings etc to. I just never bothered to learn how to do this much though since I naturally just prefer to install it to a HDD or SSD for general usage. but a quick look online the following article should get you pretty close to installing Mint to a USB stick so you can run the entire OS from it (withit being able to save files etc)... https://www.tecmint.com/install-linux-os-on-usb-drive/ it mentions to disconnect any hard drives to it does not interfere with them, but in your case you won't have to worry about this since you don't have any visible hard drives anyways. but it 'may' tweak your bootable USB stick, so if possible I would make a backup bootable USB stick just in case it messes with your current one or install Mint from a DVD disc to a USB stick you can use.
  24. Yeah, it's your call as neither is a bad choice as Cinnamon is okay to. but Xfce is a little lighter on resources and is probably a safer overall choice in my opinion for older hardware (maybe even in general). but if you are happy with Cinnamon, you can stick with that as the basic function of the OS is the same either way besides some level of differences with how the interface is etc. but the core function of things is basically the same. p.s. another reason to dump Windows 7 is even Google Chrome is dropping support of it's browser on Windows 7 in about Feb 2023. so while one can continue to use it on some level after this, security flaws in relation to this basically won't be fixed. so all the more reason to switch to Linux, especially if your computer does not support the free upgrade to Windows 10 from Windows 7 which still worked the last I checked, IF your hardware is supported. Just to confirm... you completely disconnected the DEAD hard drive and then you connected both the SATA POWER AND SATA DATA CABLES (so two cables in total will be connected to your hard drive) to a known working hard drive you have, correct? because you need both of these (SATA power AND data cable) connected for the motherboard (and hard drive) to have a chance to see it. if this fails, I would try all four of your SATA ports on the motherboard just to see if any of them show the hard drive connected (use this general test in combination with booting the Linux Mint bootable USB stick you created to see if it can see your hard drive(more instructions below)). also, in relation to the above with the hard drives... try booting into the Linux Mint bootable USB stick (like boot up to the desktop) you created and see if that can see your hard drive (one of your known working hard drives) under the 'Disks' program (if it's there it will be listed on the left side of that program). because if this see's your hard drive, I suspect Mint will install okay to it. it would not be a bad idea to clear your BIOS to it's default settings. p.s. optionally, but is not free so I don't know if it's worth your time or not, is you can potentially buy one of those SATA controller cards online (you would have to find what type of PCI slots are on your motherboard as my board from 2006 has the older stuff in it as it does not have the more modern-ish small PCI-E x1 etc ports) and assuming your PCI/PCI-E etc port still functions normally (even assuming the onboard SATA ports are totally dead) this might be a way to connect a hard drive and install Linux to it. but I would understand if you don't want to attempt it since it costs money and I can't be certain it will work. but has a decent chance to revive things so you can get working SATA ports again (assuming your onboard ones are totally dead). but after looking around online I 'think' I have found what your motherboard looks like etc and it does appear to have at least a couple of the older standard PCI slots. either way, the quality on these cheap add-on cards may be so-so as it could last years or die not all that long after use as I bought a couple in the year 2020 and one that was pretty much dirt cheap ($8 or so) started acting up not all that long after using it (probably within a year off the top of my head) while the other, which I got a deal on a used one for about half price of new (I paid $12.50 when it was normally about $25 at the time brand new) is still working well today in my main PC which that SATA add-on card is now over 2 years+ old at this point and I have no problems with it on Linux as it's automatically detected by the Linux OS etc. the particular add-on card I have is a 4-port SATA PCI-E x1 under "I/O Crest" brand (with Marvell 9215 chip etc) so my motherboard basically now has a total of 8 SATA ports instead of just the 4 that the motherboard has by default and I actually run my boot drive (Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SSD SATA) from it on Linux Mint as it just automatically detects it, so no driver setup needed. my motherboard ports are SATAII but the add-on card is SATAIII. but I don't think you can buy this particular card for your old computer since I don't think your old board has support for PCI-E x1 slots etc as you would likely need the older style PCI type of card. You can do a RAM check using the free RAM checking program from a bootable CD or USB stick... https://memtest.org/ that tests to see if your RAM is faulty etc. I would do a minimum of one full pass as that might take a hour or so to complete. but if you got the time I would let it run overnight with say 5-10 passes to see if it finds any errors or not. but obviously if it finds errors early on I would not bother running it overnight. but if it does find errors you can potentially remove certain RAM chips and try again to see if it goes way etc. you could even try clearing the BIOS and seeing if that helps. there might be a jumper on the motherboard. but I think if you just leave it unplugged for a while with the CR2032 battery removed that might be good enough to clear it. or, just simply try resetting the 'defaults' in the BIOS menu. p.s. I would play around with trying to get your SATA hard drive stuff sorted first though and if that does not work then try this RAM testing as I don't think a slightly faulty RAM chip would cause the system to not be able to see a connected hard drive.
  25. 'Cinnamon' is Mint's "main" version you could say. but Xfce is better suited for older hardware and I think is a safer overall choice in general. but in terms of basic function both are very similar. ultimately it's your choice as I don't think neither is bad. but you can't get 32bit in Mint 20 series or newer as Mint 19 series was the last one that had a 32bit ISO release (like a option of 32bit or 64bit ISO's), which I don't recommend at this point simply because support of the Mint 19.x series ends April 2023 (Mint 20.x ends April 2025, Mint 21.x ends April 2027). but in general... unless you have to run a 32bit OS (like if you have a CPU that only works with 32bit, which in your case I would be surprised if your setup does not work with 64bit), 64bit should be the default as 64bit OS's have been the norm since Windows 7 on forward as the last time a 32bit OS from Microsoft was the norm was with WinXP, which was released in 2001 (Win7 was 2009). but like I say, I would seriously look into trying another hard drive in that computer as I am fairly confident your hard drive is dead, but your computer itself is okay. in other words... getting a replacement hard drive has a decent chance to cure your problem. then you can install Mint to the hard drive and use it normally instead of from a bootable USB, as running Mint from a bootable USB stick itself is okay just for briefly testing. but a more proper way to run it is from the hard drive basically. like if you have ANY computer with a hard drive (desktop or laptop) you can temporarily remove that and plug it into this old computer just to see if the BIOS see's that a hard drive is connected (then power down and put it back into the computer it was in and resume use of it like usual). if so, I would say the odds are good just getting another hard drive (or SSD) for that setup will cure it. but what file did you download specifically? ; since you said 'cinnamon' I would assume you downloaded "linuxmint-21-cinnamon-64bit.iso"? p.s. I think if you want you can quickly try out Chromium (basically Chrome but with less junk) by loading up terminal (that black icon to the right of the Firefox icon in the bottom left corner area if your screen that looks like "$_") and issue 'sudo apt install chromium' and press enter etc. then you should be able to access 'Chromium Web Browser' from the Mint menu on the 'Internet' section or just press windows key and type 'chromium' and you will see it show up quickly there. on a bit of a side note there is a bug on Linux with Firefox (with at least some people) as the browser might hang etc (which was mentioned on the Mint forums a while ago now (I actually experienced it on my old machine from 2006 (but seems to more rarely occur, or does not occur often enough for it to be a problem on my main PC which has a i5-3550 CPU))) but if you plan on using Chrome then you don't have to worry about this being a potential factor for you anyways since that's not effected. but like I say, I would install Mint and then see how things work for your first and then go from there.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.