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ThaCrip

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  1. Basically dbminter pretty much bottom lined things in general with Mitsubishi/Taiyo Yuden being the safe/quality choices. with that said, for general CD-R media I got some cheap Verbatim CD-R (CMC Magnetics) and while it's not the higher quality Mitsubishi, and it works well enough, but I largely just use it for burning standard audio CD's (minimal amount for very limited amount of data) and in this case it's nice and even offers the best overburning of the discs I have owned as they will burn at least 2min15sec over the normal 80min limit. I am not sure how long these discs will last, but I suspect CD-R media in general is less picky than DVD. because doing some disc quality checks on these CMC Magnetics Verbatim CD-R's with my old Liteon 24102b CD-RW (IDE) drive, as it's the only drive I have that scan scan CD-R media properly, it's within good standards currently. but on DVD recordable media, especially if it's anything you care about long term, I would just stick to Mitsubishi/TY as a general rule, even though it's possible other media will last a rather long time to as I have a small amount of DVD discs I burned back in the 2000's decade (that's not of the Mitsubishi/TY brand) and they still scan well to this day as just checking the pictures a moment ago I saved from KProbe for my non-Mitsubishi/TY media I have one disc that was burned on Nov 5th 2005 and scanned with KProbe on March 26th 2022 and it's still showing a quality burn (PIF spike is no higher than a 2 at any point and even the PIE's are basically top notch and total PIF's are low etc). it's a "DVD+R CMC MAGM01 [CMC Magnetics Corporation]" which is probably the oldest burned DVD disc I still have, or close to it. another non-Mitsubishi/TY disc I got, while not as good of a burn quality as the MAGM01 mentioned above, it's still good enough overall as it was burned about March/April 2012 and I scanned it on May 2nd 2022 as the only a bit more concerning part is the single PIF spike of 9 and of 5 as besides those two small parts the rest tops out in the 3 or less range which is well within quality, although a very high percentage of the PIF's are 2 or less and the general PIE's (which are not as important as PIF's in general) are still well within a standard I am not worried about as that tops out at 53 (I think the official spec is somewhere over 200, meaning anything of say no higher than about 2xx is still within spec) but a good portion of the disc ain't far from what's close enough to about as good as your going to get. but given a disc I burned not all that long ago that actually failed to read data showed for a disc scan, assuming that's a good ball park estimate for failure to read the disc, I suspect this disc with the single 9 and 5 spike ain't going to be failing for the foreseeable future for general data backup. point is, while you can still get media that will last that's not of the Mitsubishi/TY brands, it's a bit more of a gamble. but what dbminter said about DVD+R DL media is all that more true as that media tends to be more picky than typical 4.7GB recordable DVD media is, so it's all the more reason to just outright avoid it unless you don't mind gambling and get it dirt cheap.
  2. Given what you said there it sounds like your hard drive is dead (like got fried etc) is why the PC's BIOS does not see it, not that the PC hardware itself (like motherboard etc) is faulty (assuming your power supply did not fry it etc). I would try running a different hard drive on it temporarily to see if the BIOS can see it. if it can, I would imagine you can install a OS to it. assuming you don't think there is anything faulty with the PSU (power supply) you connect to it, it should be safe to test another hard drive you might have laying around (power off PC, connect SATA data/power cables, power on and check). any typical SATA hard drive will do, desktop or laptop, even a laptops 2.5" type (desktops are of the 3.5" kind) just to see if it can detect the hard drive in BIOS etc. if it can I would think the odds are you can install a OS to it and everything will be great. another thing that comes to mind that just popped into my head which MAY BE IMPORTANT IF IT APPLIES TO YOU... on your hard drive, make sure you ONLY connect ONE power connector to it as one of my old Western Digital 250GB HDD's (which I had in March 2006(it's still in use in my old computer today)) has TWO power connectors to it, the old molex kind (white plastic looking with four prongs or so in it) and the modern SATA kind but you ONLY use one of the two along with the SATA data cable. so if you have two power connectors make sure NOT to connect two as that 'might' damage the hard drive etc!!! but I don't think this kind of hard drive setup is too common as far as I am aware since all of the rest of my hard drive only have the usual ONE sata(or IDE) connection and ONE way to power it be it the usual SATA power connector OR the older 'molex' power connector, not both. No. the OS (Windows or Linux etc) basically takes care of all of this stuff as the BIOS basically just see's the hardware and then the OS pretty much does the rest. I see. nowadays 4GB of RAM is what I would call a realistic minimum for a usable computer, although if you had 8GB of RAM that would be plenty for general usage as you won't have any RAM issues for general usage with 8GB of RAM but with 4GB, depending on how long you are using that computer etc, you could see some level of performance hit from lack of RAM eventually. your CPU should be plenty fast enough to as just about any decent quad core like that should be solid for online usage etc and that CPU is definitely superior to my old computer from 2006's AMD Athlon X2 3600+ dual-core CPU, which I installed into that board in the year 2010 I think so I could play the game Mafia II (2010). but damn, a 60GB HDD. fairly ancient tech there ; hell, it's probably good that's dead anyways. lol but I see '32bit' Win7 as there probably ain't much reason to use a 32bit OS in today's world as just about everything is 64bit (64ibt OS's have been the norm since basically the Win7 era to date as on WinXP, the 32bit version was more common/popular than the 64bit version) and I would assume given your specs there is a good chance it will be okay with 64bit OS's as my old 2006 board works fine with 64bit Mint. come to think of it... if you have a 32bit OS it's limited to a max of 4GB of system RAM. to use say 8GB of RAM you need a 64bit OS. if I recall correctly, I think with a 32bit OS, how it's limited to 4GB of RAM, I think that's also shared with VRAM (video RAM) from your GPU to. so if you had say a GPU with 512MB of VRAM (even on the GPU itself) I 'think' the OS would then be limited to a max of 3.5GB of RAM even if 4GB of physical RAM is installed etc. but with 64bit all of these limitations disappear. I am not surprised as given what you told me it seems like the HDD (hard drive) is fried. try another hard drive, laptop or desktop you have laying around. if it works, and you can't use this, just buy a cheap SSD online as it makes everything (general programs etc) load much quicker. a SSD is a 'solid state drive', these are a lot faster than a regular hard drive. as a small bonus... I don't even bother to properly mount these in my desktop computer as I just leave mine connected to the SATA data/power cables sitting in the bottom of the PC case on mine for years now (I had a SSD in my primary PC since May 2015) as the SATA power/data cables are snug enough to where there is no chance they will come loose when it's just sitting there like that as the SSD is light to. so even if someone moves the case around, it will still stay securely connected. but with regular hard drive I suggest mounting those properly to be safe. In terms of general usage I can assure you, Mint will work well for general use like web browser etc as overall it's very similar to Windows that you are used to given Mint's basic interface is Windows-like (Ubuntu on the other hand, I think it's interface is not as similar to Windows as Mint's is, but the underlying OS Mint is based on Ubuntu 22.04 LTS but uses different DE's (desktop environments), Cinnamon/MATE/Xfce (Xfce is the least resource intensive, which is suited well for older hardware. but there basic function is similar), which is like the interface you use to navigate menus as all three options from Mint is Windows-like in general familiarity of navigating menus). even online many suggest Mint is good for beginners switching from Windows to Linux. updating and browser usage as it's no harder than Windows in this regard. sure, Linux is different in some ways, and I can easily understand how in some ways it might be confusing compared to what you are used to with Windows, but the basics are easy enough, especially given you told me you just want it for web browser use pretty much. on Linux Mint for example... all updates come through the 'Update Manager' (it's sort of like 'Windows Updates' except it's entirely on you when to install the updates (but it will automatically check for updates for you pretty much) and a bonus with Linux is updates generally don't require a reboot to take effect besides say Kernel updates and if you got a NVIDIA GPU that can run the NVIDIA proprietary driver that requires a reboot to take effect), including your web browsers as they don't automatically update like they do on Windows. but this is easy enough as there is a 'shield' looking icon in the task bar, with a orange dot on it appearing when updates are available, which lets you know there is updates you can install but it's up to you whether to run the updates or not as it won't install without your permission. but to install them it's easy enough as you simply left click the shield icon then pretty much click 'install updates' it will then ask for your administrator password (which is the one you setup on Mint during initial installation of the OS) and then it will proceed to download and install the updates automatically. occasionally you might need to click the 'refresh' (in the Update Manager) and then 'install updates' but it's easy enough. that's the general idea even in regards to general music playback/conversion software... on Linux Mint I use Foobar2000 (which is Windows software) but I got to set it up through Wine etc, so it directly runs on Linux. I use this simply because it's superior to any native Linux software for general music playback like if you have FLAC(lossless) or MP3(lossy) music files etc. plus, like I was saying you can also use ImgBurn on Linux Mint once you know how to set it up (but once setup it's Windows level easy as you simply load it from a icon on the desktop basically and it works). which if you want to do this after you get it sorted out with say Linux Mint on your system I can help you. anyways, in regards to your questions... 1)It is a bootable USB stick and while you can use it 'live' (as you can browse the basic OS after it boots up, but will be a little sluggish since it's running from a USB stick not a HDD/SSD) it's only temporarily as to use it where it can save settings etc you actually need to install it, which can be done from that same bootable USB stick as it's done from the 'live' boot from the desktop icon 'Install Linux Mint' as it's right on the desktop. but at the very least... just booting to this allows you to try out the OS a little bit since the actual OS does load up from it so you can browse the 'start menu' etc without installing anything as at this point it's running from the USB stick. you can even load Firefox, although like I was saying, since it's about 6 months old it will be using a older Firefox, but this will be fixed if you actually install the OS to a hard drive at which point you can update it and be on the newest browser etc and can even install the official Google Chrome on Linux Mint if you prefer. 2)Mint is small as even a 4GB USB stick will work as the Mint ISO it's, for the Xfce version (which I also use), is exactly "2.2 GiB (2,415,585,280 bytes)". basically "linuxmint-21-xfce-64bit.iso". I use Xfce on all three of my computers (2 desktops, 1 laptop). my old ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe board (basically 2005-2006 tech, it's using DDR as I see yours is a bit newer with DDR2 RAM) works fine with this and it's got 4GB of RAM and my old Radeon 5670 512MB GPU is in that, which I also got in the year 2010 to play Mafia II. 3)Mint is free and you can get it from the official Linux Mint site here... https://linuxmint.com/ but more specifically the ISO itself (Mint v21.0-Xfce (Mint 21.1-Xfce should be out around Christmas but you can update to this through the OS if you want, or you can just stay on 21.0 as it's optional)) is for download here... https://linuxmint.com/edition.php?id=301 (shows a basic screenshot of the desktop and menu there(I turned mine 'dark' looking though since I feel it suits the general darker look of the Mint Xfce desktop in general but by default it's grey like that but as you can see it's Windows like in terms of the general menu navigation even though things are different on some level given it's Linux, not Windows) just scroll down to the 'Download mirrors' and click on any of those links which will download the "linuxmint-21-xfce-64bit.iso". while that's fine and good enough for you to use, if you want to be extra sure the ISO is as it should be and without any potential modifications simply make sure the SHA-256 hash matches the following before using it "3ad001dc15cb661c6652ce1d20ecdc85a939fa0b4b9325af5d0c65379cc3b17e" (or MD5 hash if you prefer... "7f213f0a15cc92e3c12d322df002541e")
  3. If the motherboard is not physically damaged or some sort of static electricity damage that stops the SATA ports from working etc, or just failed from old age, I would imagine you can just put in another hard drive and it will work? ; did you ever try another hard drive in it (did you try all of the SATA ports(?), or if it's the old IDE, did you try these?) temporarily just to see if it would install a OS to it? or are you certain it's definitely damaged? but I get your basic point now though. my backup PC, which is the first PC I built in March 2006 (although my first PC I had was in 1995), so 16 years and 9 months now (the BIOS on that I think is from early 2007, which is the newest available), I still have that as within about the last year or two or so I replaced most of the capacitors on the motherboard (ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe (this is a high end board in it's day which has 4 SATA ports and some IDE connections to)) since a good portion of them were bulging etc. but this computer cannot run anything newer than Windows 7 in regards to Microsoft OS's (technically Win10 32bit will install but it's unstable and the 64bit version won't install outright due to lack of nx-bit. but Win7 runs fine and so does Linux). but it runs Linux Mint 21.0-Xfce well which is supported until April 2027. but if you are basically just trying to get online, which appears to be the case, I suggest giving Linux Mint 21.0-Xfce (which the ISO you download is 2.2 GiB (2,415,585,280 bytes)) a try as once you boot to this you will have immediate access to the Firefox browser even though it will be slightly outdated given Mint 21 was released about 6 months ago (although if you actually installed the OS you can update it to the newest browser etc like expected). you can install the official Chrome on Linux to but I use the alternative Chromium as on my Mint install I use Firefox as my primary browser with Chromium as a backup. but Linux is nice on older underpowered computers (it will run well on fast one to obviously though) as I got a laptop (which I don't really use much) that clearly has a underpowered CPU (AMD E-300 (which besides that the laptop ain't bad)) and you can tell Mint runs overall smoother than Win10 does. but trying Mint is easy enough as you just create a standard bootable USB stick (or DVD) and boot to it and it will take you to the desktop to play with it a bit. it will be a bit slower vs running from a HDD or SSD since it's a USB stick but you can get a half way decent feel for it though. if you want Chrome, when you are on Linux load up Firefox and go to... https://www.google.com/chrome/ then 'download chrome' and you will see a popup showing "64 bit .deb (For Debian/Ubuntu)" as you download that file and run it basically. how much RAM does that computer have? ; because on my board I mentioned here it maxes out at 4GB of RAM (4x 1GB), which is what I got in it. but nowadays 2GB of RAM is a bare minimum (as once you load the OS and a browser, shortly after it will blow past 2GB of RAM) even though a more realistic usable minimum is 4GB of RAM for a usable computer since you can load the OS and have some RAM left for the browser for a while. come to think of it, Firefox is a bit more RAM friendly to, but you can still use Chrome if you want to. another thing is... I hope that computer is at least some form of dual-core CPU (the ASUS board I mentioned above currently has a Athlon X2 3600+ CPU in it which is dual-core at 2.0GHz but is currently overclocked to 2.3GHz and it's passable for internet etc) as single core CPU's at this point, even the faster ones, are probably pushing ancient status as I had a old computer from 2001 with a Athlon 1.2GHz and even years ago you could tell that was pretty much shot as doing simple tasks would routinely push the CPU to full load etc. but depending on your options we shall see
  4. I see, you want to be able to actually run the entire OS itself strictly from a flash drive, correct? if so, in that case, I can't say much since I never bothered to do that as I would imagine Windows would run quite slowly even if one could get it working. but I know if you are just trying to get a basic live flash drive (without being able to save general OS configuration etc on reboots) OS's like Linux Mint do this by default as you boot into a live OS temporarily, as this is how you can optionally install it to a HDD, but from the live USB stick you can still browse your hard drives with file manager and browse the web with Firefox like this on Mint as it's basically the entire OS running from USB stick, but nothing gets saved on reboots by default. I don't know if this is sufficient for what you are trying to do though. I do know there are ways to run a Linux OS entirely from a bootable USB stick, while being able to save data to it so it's saved on reboots, but I never bothered to learn the details of how though. but a quick look, apparently Rufus might work for creating a live USB stick for Windows... https://www.intowindows.com/rufus-to-create-windows-to-go-usb-drive/
  5. A popular free program on Windows to make a bootable USB stick is https://rufus.ie/ ; which works with ISO's. on a bit of a side note while I have used Rufus in the past, and it's good, I prefer Ventoy (ventoy.net) which allows you to boot ISO's directly from it's menu after you boot to it as I can boot Windows or Linux etc ISO's directly this way as it's convenient to have a single USB stick to load multiple ISO's from. basically once Ventoy is installed to the USB stick, you just simply copy your ISO to the root of the USB stick, reboot computer, boot to USB stick, then select the ISO you want to boot from the Ventoy menu and then proceed to use like usual. but as a alternative to making your own ISO from a DVD disc... if you know the official SHA-1 hash etc of Win7 ISO's (I know mine is fine if you are English USA 'en-us' ) you can obtain them online from random places and don't have to worry about viruses etc. hell, I even made a custom updated Win7 ISO that has updates included up to May 2021, although there is even newer updates like this since I made mine as the most current is up to Nov 2022 as I just checked. this makes it more convenient since it's not many years out of date like the official SP1 ISO is as you just install it and your pretty much up to date (and it even removed some of the junk in Win7 to with the method I used from the mydigitallife website with the 'Integrate7 script' by user 'wkeller'). but the official stock English(US) Win7 Pro x64 SP1 ISO's SHA-1 hash is "0bcfc54019ea175b1ee51f6d2b207a3d14dd2b58" (if you need the official SHA-1 hash of a different Win7 ISO I can probably find it). I still got the ISO on my hard drive but you can download it random places online if you search around. I pretty much don't use Win7 anymore since officially Microsoft stopped supporting it in Jan 2020, so it no longer will receive security updates etc (if you can't upgrade from Win7 to Win10 (which can be done for free assuming your hardware supports it) I suggest putting Linux (more specifically Linux Mint) on your computer since it's free and will keep your machine secure online (the newest Mint v21 series is supported until April 2027)). but I keep Win7 ISO around on the rare occasion I might need it as, for example, one old device I have (Zune 30GB) requires Win7 to be able to transfer any data to it. but thankfully I rarely use that device anymore anyways. but in regards to that modified/custom Win7 ISO I made (which includes all Win7 updates etc to May 2021)... it's "5.0 GiB (5,353,363,456 bytes)" in size vs the official stock ISO of "3.1 GiB (3,320,903,680 bytes)". so it's basically a little over 2GB larger, which as you can see is too large to fit onto a standard 4.7GB DVD anyways (it's about 654MB too large), so you pretty much got to use a USB stick (or DVD+R DL which is too expensive to burn a ISO to anyways).
  6. While I do use it for data to, I actually DO use ImgBurn to burn a standard AUDIO CD (ImgBurn is just more optimally setup for data though is all as a typical burning program for audio CD's is easier/more straight forward to use even though ImgBurn does work well for standard AUDIO CD's once you know what to do). it even can overburn audio CD's to as I know those typical cheaper Verbatim CD-R's with a 'CMC Magnetics Corp' ID will overburn to at least 82min15sec as that works fine on my old audio CD player from the early 1990's. it shows up as 82min12sec on the player and the disc plays fine until the end. I just use only WAV files with it since it works with those without issue out-of-the-box. I just use Foobar2000 to convert my FLAC to WAV temporarily so ImgBurn can it use. I am using ImgBurn on Linux and since plugins are less likely to work on Linux, it's all the more reason for me to just use only WAV files with it since that works out-of-the-box. basically on ImgBurn to burn audio CD from my FLAC converted to WAV files I just use ImgBurn's "Tools > Create CUE File..." section. drag-and-drop WAV files in here then click 'OK' it will than save a ".cue" file and then with ImgBurn's 'Mode > Write' (load ".cue" file or drag-and-drop it into this windows 'source' section) it can then write it to a standard AUDIO CD which will work in any standard audio CD player. Yeah, on Windows I have no doubts. on Linux, which I know is not officially supported, I don't think 'madflac' etc works. but it's not a issue since a easy enough work around is to just use WAV files directly which I can convert easily enough from FLAC using Foobar2000 as both Foobar2000 and ImgBurn work well on Linux (although ImgBurn does not work on Linux if someone just simply installs it as a few tweaks have to be done before it works, which boils down to setting Wine to WinXP mode and using the 'SPTI - Microsoft' and 'Device Interface' (or 'Device Class') set in ImgBurn options otherwise it won't see a persons CD/DVD burners and without WinXP set, the program will hang at the ImgBurn splash screen). Thanks for the info. I hope you are right.
  7. I always keep all of my music in FLAC format and if I need to burn with ImgBurn, like burning a standard audio CD (or overburning a standard audio CD), ill just temporarily convert to WAV files (using Foobar2000) for use with ImgBurn. I run ImgBurn on Linux as the method above works well since you just install ImgBurn and it will work with the above WAV files for standard audio CD burning by default with no conversion needed in ImgBurn itself basically. I would generally avoid burning standard audio CD's from lossy formats like MP3/AAC etc. but since ImgBurn has not been updated since the year 2013, I would say it's unlikely it will be updated at this point. but ImgBurn works quite well already for general data burning. it's audio CD burning works well enough to if you know how to work within it's limitations.
  8. I got GParted installed on my main machine running Linux Mint as it's nice to have around occasionally for HDD or USB stick etc tweaking/setup once in a while. but since most people won't be using Linux, then using a boot CD with it could be of occasional use. p.s. but what dbminter said should be the gist of it. just write (Mode > Write (then basically drag-and-drop the ISO into this window, select write speed, write)) the ISO image to a CD and you should be able to boot to it.
  9. If that is pretty much a offline computer then it's not a problem to continue using WinXP. but if you use it online for browsing websites fairly regularly it's unwise to use that as even looking at Firefox and Chrome browsers it appears they dropped support of those on Windows XP years ago as if you can't install a recent version of those there is likely plenty of flaws one could exploit in the browser just by visiting a compromised site. so even if you want to roll-the-dice a bit, even assuming you can find a half way decent updated browser, I would avoid doing anything important on that computer online on the side of caution to avoid any potential virus infection just by visiting a website. because it could be possible that just by visiting a site it might take advantage of a browser flaw to gain access to the system since nothing will be patched at all in relation to flaws related to WinXP in the browser and OS, so if someone can get by the browser and exploit a flaw in the OS, you could have a problem. I am not sure how likely this is to occur, but I would definitely not take the chance if this is used to do anything important online like banking or sign into important sites you care about etc. so basically unless there is a certain software you use that only works on Windows, it's wise to install Linux (which is completely free) on that older system since then you would have a reliable updated machine that's safe to use online and is secure. for example... Mint v21.0-Xfce (which is basically what I got installed on all three of my computers with one of those computers being a high end motherboard board I had since March 2006, as it's basically higher end 2005 motherboard tech, and is limited to 4GB of RAM as that's the motherboards limit) is supported until April 2027 with updates, and like I mentioned, ImgBurn works on this (along with some level of Windows programs(I use Foobar2000 which is a quality music playback/conversion program through Linux to), even though obviously, not all Windows programs will work on Linux through Wine) along with updated versions of browsers like Firefox/Chrome etc. I personally use Firefox as my primary browser and I have Chromium as a backup, but there are other choices like the official Chrome if you prefer that etc. just some thoughts in case you are not aware of this stuff
  10. Unless you must keep WinXP for some reason one should not still be using that at this point as it's not had any security updates since April 2014. Windows 7 lost support in Jan 2020. I suggest putting Linux (Linux Mint v21.0-Xfce) on it as then you would have a secure internet machine and ImgBurn works okay on Linux once setup properly. I can even use KProbe (it's good for checking burn quality of CD/DVD if you got a Liteon drive etc) on Linux to through Wine etc. Linux should not have trouble reading the discs you burned with ImgBurn.
  11. I am pretty sure Dreamcast can't read CD-RW media as all of the games I burned back in the day were on CD-R. p.s.I still got my Dreamcast but it collects dust
  12. I see. I assume they mainly fail early on home DVD players (as you mentioned "won't even get to 100 [re-writes]") where as with PC DVD burners they will go much longer? I just wonder what one could reasonably expect from quality re-writable media in terms of how many writes on the PC use side of things. hopefully at least 100-200 writes.
  13. Like mentioned above you basically use it until it no longer works reliably as, to be safe, always allow the 'verify' part to complete after burning a re-writable disc. while I can't say for sure, I would guesstimate quality re-writable media should last a rather long time like Verbatim as I got some Verbatim CD-RW (4x rated) and DVD+RW (2.4x rated), which both are pretty much new old stock, not all that long ago (the DVD+RW I think I got in 2019 and the CD-RW I got earlier this year) and I expect those will last me for the foreseeable future. the DVD+RW I got in probably 2019 have a '2002' date on the back of the jewel case, so I would guesstimate it's anywhere from 2002 to roughly mid-2000's. but as the OP might already know... re-writable media is less reliable than regular write-once media. p.s. in another post I made on these forums not all that long ago (i.e. https://forum.imgburn.com/topic/26639-imgburn-v2580-works-on-linux-mint-v20x-here-is-how/?do=findComment&comment=169001 ) I was using some old (I likely bought sometime in the 2000's, probably mid-2000's or so) Memorex CD-RW (10x rated) discs and you could see they were pretty much on their way out given the write/read was flaky.
  14. Well apparently it is with those newer drives LightningUK mentioned since they can overburn to 8.7GB instead of being limited to 8.5GB like is typical (or use a old iHASx24B drives etc like I got with the special firmware, but the newer drives are probably better because I would assume they have better support for more modern Verbatim DVD+R DL 8x discs etc). so with a proper burner, a proper ISO, and assuming your XBox360 is moded correctly etc, it should work if you using quality media, which basically means Verbatim DVD+R DL specifically. while you can probably get away with more generic brands on regular DVD-R(or +R) media, that's much less so on DL media since they are more fussy, which makes Verbatim brand specifically all that much more required. but I forgot most of the details on XBox360 stuff since I have probably not burned a game (or XGD3) since probably 2013 or so as taking a quick look through some of my burned games most are 2010 or before with a little after that point and from a quick look, 2013 (or so) was probably the last time I burned a XBox360 game. p.s. if it were possible to make a 8.7GB smaller, they most likely would have done so in the old days and saved people the trouble of needing special firmware/burner to burn those XDG3 games. that's kind of why I assume tweaking ISO size is pointless as I don't remember doing any of that back when I was using my XBox360 regularly.
  15. Are you referring to the Optiarc ones they are selling here... https://www.vinpowerdigital.com/t/categories/Optical-Drives/Optiarc-DVD-Burner because I seen some site (a post date of many years ago now) mentioning cross-flash etc, but I just ignored it since I figured it would be easier with what was standard back-in-the-day. I did not realize they got new drives that allow over-burning to 8.7GB (on DVD+R DL media), but apparently those do. but assuming those work well, that might be better since it's new and more recent and I suspect has better compatibility with newer 8x certified DVD+R DL media. still, from taking a quick look, at least here in the USA, it's seem like very little is available at a reasonable price range.
  16. I do see some iHAS324 "B" models for sale on Ebay if that helps. it must be a "B" model otherwise you can't flash that special firmware to it to my knowledge! because with those you can flash the special firmware and then with the proper discs (Verbatim DVD+R DL) you should be able to burn XGD3 games properly then is your best bet since I know that works. but taking a quick look online it seems most of the Verbatim DVD+R DL available are rated at '8x'. I don't 'think' that will be a problem but the ones I specifically used were officially rated for 2.4x, which I still see some of these older ones for sale on Ebay as they are in 20-discs per pack which is what mine is as I just checked as I got as I got about 8 discs left in my pack which I had since back when XBox360 burning was more common. so while the '8x' discs might work, it's probably safer to get the 2.4x rated ones since I suspect there will be less potential issues with the burner/media combo this way given those burners are roughly 10 years old (mine says 'May 2011' for mfg date as I just checked) and might not work as well with newer 8x media. but it's your call. I am just assuming your XBox360 is already moded properly as I have not flashed mine in a rather long time now so I forgot most of the stuff at this point. but I am pretty sure my XBox360 has the Samsung MS28 drive which I think Hitachi ones were more common and of lower quality. I think I had a certain PCI card I needed to flash my Samsung drives firmware (in the XBox360 itself) from my old PC at the time. off the top of my head VIA 6421 PCI card comes to mind and checking online I must have been right since it mentions that JungleFlasher program in relation to it etc and I think it can be done from DOS to 'if' I recall correctly. so while I still do somewhat remember this stuff, I am sure I forgot the bulk of the details p.s. but from looking around online it appears models iHAS124B through iHAS524B should work (so 1 2 3 4 or 5) with that special firmware.
  17. I have not used my moded XBox360 in a while but, at least to my knowledge the last I knew, you had to use the Burner Max firmware on a Liteon 324 B drive for it to properly burn all of the data on a XDG3 sized ISO since it's actually over-burning some data beyond what's normally the limit and you can't do this without custom firmware on a typical burner the last I knew. I don't know the details on what it burns, but apparently it was important enough for them to release that custom firmware. so unless things have changed since I last knew, I suspect you need a burner to properly burn those XGD3 games since regular games you can just use a typical DVD burner on Verbatim DVD+R DL media. I still have some of my quality made in singapore Verbatim DVD+R DL discs, which I solely used for XBox360 stuff. I believe burning at 2.4x was recommended but it might have been possible to burn at 4x. I still have my burner that was flashed with the Burner Max firmware and still have my moded XBox360 but I have not really used the XBox360 in years now as I mainly use that Liteon 324 B burner I have for a general DVD burner nowadays. my burner shows up in ImgBurn as... "I 12:05:24 -> Drive 2 - Info: ATAPI iHAS324 B AL1B (J:)"
  18. I know this post is over 2 years old now, but I tried burning a ".CDI" file to a 700MB CD-RW disc with ImgBurn v2.5.8.0 (on Linux Mint) and it worked (at least as far as the general burning process) as I just copied over the "pfctoc.dll" to root of the general ImgBurn directory before attempting to burn the ".CDI" file and it burned successfully and verified okay. but I did not test anything directly on the Dreamcast itself as even if I did it appears ill almost certainly have to burn it to CD-R since apparently the Dreamcast won't read CD-RW discs from looking around online (at least not without tweaking laser power which could burn it out faster, as it's risky to tweak, so I am leaving mine as-is in it's stock state). but just to see what happens when I remove that "pfctoc.dll" from the root of the ImgBurn directory... after removing it, loading up ImgBurn, then doing a drag-n-drop of the .CDI file into ImgBurn, it throws pretty much the same error the OP got in the ImgBurn log window... E 03:22:50 Unable to initialise PfcToc! - PfcToc.dll E 03:22:50 Reason: Module not found. E 03:22:50 You need to copy pfctoc.dll into the program folder. (C:\Program Files\ImgBurn\) E 03:22:50 Visit http://www.imgburn.com/index.php?act=download to download it. so apparently putting that pfctoc.dll file into the root of the ImgBurn directory has a big effect on trying to burn Dreamcast games with ImgBurn p.s. I do have a Dreamcast and I know it played burned games the last I checked, but I have not used that console in ages now.
  19. It already works on Linux through Wine...
  20. I can't say nothing officially (as ill leave the details to the higher-ups around here), but I imagine it's generally better/safer this way to write discs in one shot. in the future if you want to fill a disc wait until you have enough data to do it in one shot. I think some burning software allows multi-sessions, so you could write say 1GB to a 4.7GB DVD for example and then at a later date add more to it, but I think this wastes some storage space on the disc each session you create vs if you did it in one shot. personally I prefer the write everything you want to in one shot as things are nice and reliable this way and you get max storage space. but on a side note speaking for myself... I remember briefly in the old days, which was probably my earlier CD burning days, so probably in the 1998-2003 time frame or so, I used to use some software that would allow adding/deleting files to it as you went along, sort of acts like a hard drive on some level. I want to say it was 'packet writing' software (I don't remember the name of the software I used off the top of my head) and, if I recall correctly, I only did it on CD-RW discs even though I think you could use it on CD-R etc, but it made less sense on write-once media. but this just seems like a bad way to write CD/DVD in general as I suspect it's best to write whatever you got to write in one shot and apparently this seems to be more of the norm anyways as I don't recall using that packet writing software much since the standard way (writing a disc in one shot) is better/preferred. but I think in regards to that packet writing stuff... even with CD-RW, which as you know you can erase/write to many times in general, I think with packet writing, when you add some files and say delete one, it does not actually delete the data it wrote but adjusts the general table-of-contents of the disc (or something to this effect) to just ignore the file you deleted so it appears it's deleted but the written area is still filling up (so if you added say two files at 100MB each, which would take 200MB, and then deleted one with the packet writing software, 200MB would still be used up of the 700MB total space on a CD-RW even though it will only appear you got one 100MB file on it. so everytime you write more data to it with the packet writing software the storage space always decreases). only way to fix that is to basically wipe the CD-RW and start clean again. I have not did this in probably 20+ years now, but I think that's the general idea on how it worked. but after checking Wikipedia on 'packet writing' it appears I am correct (at least with say CD-R, but I 'think' CD-RW reacts the same)...
  21. I am curious... did you just install it and it worked? ; or did you have to tweak things like change from ASPI to SPTI mode and the like? The oldest thing I run occasionally is a game from 2002 (i.e. Mafia (2002). which is still my #1 video game experience to date). but if I recall correctly when I was on Windows 10 I had to enable 'DirectPlay' for it to work, which is pretty much under... Windows Features > Legacy Components > DirectPlay (check the box by directplay). or that general section is found on the 'Turn windows features on or off' etc. I am not sure how that would be handled on Windows 11 or future versions of Windows. but I likely won't be using Windows for the foreseeable future and even on the occasion I might need it, I would likely just temporarily reinstall it on my main PC, play a game, then go back to Mint. but nearly all of the games I replay (which is largely just the Mafia series (Mafia (2002)/Mafia II (2010)/Mafia III (2016)/Mafia: Definitive Edition (2020)(remake of the original 2002 game)) work on Linux. p.s. the oldest software I use without a update would probably be ImgBurn.
  22. Try it and see as I would guesstimate if it installs and starts up and sees your DVD burner, it will probably work. you might need to change ImgBurn to use SPTI though... 'Tools > Settings > I/O', then select 'SPTI - Microsoft', then under 'SPTI Device Enumeration Method' you can tweak that a bit if you need to. basically if you start up ImgBurn, which I think uses APSI by default, and it does not see your DVD burner, switching to SPTI will probably help. for the record... that's what I use on Linux Mint v20.3-Xfce is ImgBurn in SPTI mode as ASPI mode simply won't see any of my burners. p.s. I never bothered with Windows 11 given the requirements stop it from officially running on too much hardware which is why I think that OS will ultimately fail. besides, if the pattern from Microsoft holds (which has held true since Win98 to date... Win98(good),WinME(bad),WinXP(good),WinVista(bad),Win7(good),Win8(bad),Win10(good),Win11(bad(?)), Windows 11 is part of the 'bad' cycle. I doubt it will see wide adoption like Windows 10 has given it seems you got to have hardware within about the last 5 years or so tops for it to work, which officially stops too much hardware from running it. just on a personal level... I have used pretty much all of the Microsoft OS's from Win v3.11 to date with the exception of Win8 and Win11. I tried Win8 initially in a virtual machine but it's interface was horrible so I never bothered with it again (sure, they fixed it later, but by then the damage was done, it was doomed as people just stuck with Win7 or went to Win10). also, I omitted Win2000 because while that was basically the first stable OS from Microsoft that the average person could use on their computer (I used it myself at one point at home), it was not targeted at the common person, so WinXP was basically the first stable OS from Microsoft marketed towards the common person (which you might as well say is about when computers were more mainstream as WinXP was 2001 but I would say computers in general started to take off probably in that 1998-2000 range. for measure... high speed internet (cable) was first in my area in the year 2000). because before the Win2k/WinXP days, people had to reboot a lot more often etc.
  23. Your using older firmware for that drive as you can obtain the newest (BSOY) from here... https://www.firmwarehq.com/Lite-On/SOHW-1633S/files.html I would imagine that drive should be okay enough to finish the writing as I got a Lite-on 1673s drive, which is my original burner I got back in 2005, and that worked fine the last I checked. burn quality might be worse on that drive vs a bit more modern ones though as you can check your burned discs burn quality with a program called KProbe v2.5.2 (i.e. https://www.videohelp.com/software/KProbe ) on KProbe your mainly concerned with PIF's as 'optimal' would be to keep any single spike to 4 or less (although you can still be a fair amount worse than that standard and have a working/readable disc). but I suspect you will probably exceed that standard, but the main thing is as long as ImgBurn passes the 'verify' process that at least means the disc is currently readable. but KProbe will give you a better idea of the burn quality of the disc, like if your closer to higher burn quality or not. there appears to be custom firmware for that drive to, here... https://archive.rpc1.org/codeguys/firmwares/dvdrw/ ; talked about a bit here... https://club.myce.com/t/liteon-1633s-new-firmware/161327 etc. it's been a while since I messed around with crossflashing etc though, so I forgot most of it off the top of my head. but it does appear you can turn that 1633s drive into 1653s if you want with Omnipatcher (https://archive.rpc1.org/codeguys/patchers/) etc as one comment I read on myce site said, "get the latest omnipatcher (thanks to the Codeguys) and make your 1633S a true 1653S. That way you will be able to use any 1653S FW straight from liteon site!!!". but if all of this sounds complicated, you can just flash the stock BS0Y firmware for your 1633s drive and see if that helps. NOTE: all of the firmware flashing is done at your own risk! ; but if your drive does not work on those discs currently there is a decent chance a newer firmware will help. Checking my Lite-on 1673s drive, with the newest firmware available for it (JS0D), with that same media and media code mine shows... "6x, 8x" for write speeds. I think I can crossflash my 1673s to a 1693s drive etc, but I never bothered to do it. but who knows, maybe ill play around with it sometime. but I am curious if yours changes with a simple stock firmware update. but if not, I wonder if crossflashing to 1653s would improve it a bit etc. but if what I looked up online is correct, you might get a potential burning speed upgrade on DVD-R media as it appears the 1633s is limited to a max of 8x burn speed where as the 1653s drive can go up to 12x burn speed on DVD-R media (both do up to 16x on DVD+R it appears). with that said... if you want to be 'safe' I would just try flashing to the newest official firmware for your 1633s drive and see what happens.
  24. Well I tried the basic extraction with the ".7z.001" (i.e. the first file) and ".7z.002" (i.e. the last file) and got same result. but I suspect what you just said summed it up as 7-zip just don't do have that feature in the software as looking around online, I found some posts trying to do what I wanted to do and it appears 7-zip can't do it. so basically if I need to restore this data in the future ill have to just copy each DVD's 7z file back to a folder on hard drive and then open the first file at which point it will extract the data as expected. but not a huge problem as what I burned is mostly for long term data storage as I don't plan on needing to extract that data in general.
  25. Well at least trying to load the first ".7z.001" file (even the ".7z.002") directly from the DVD drive disc it errors with a 'An error occurred when loading the archive.' through GUI. even trying a basic extraction from terminal errors... 'Can not open the file as archive' etc. the same result on both files (i.e. ".7z.001" and ".7z.002") so as far as I can tell both files must be located on hard drive first before I can open the first file at which point it will function as expected and then I can extract the file(s). but yeah, it would have been nice to be able to just leave it on the disc and extract the files out of it as this would save time since I would not have to copy files back to hard drive first, then load the file and then extract.
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