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Open Powershell ISE, copy and paste the script. Adjust the source and destination variables and then run it via the 'play' (run) button. It assumes you want to make an iso for every folder within the 'source' path you provide. So you'd have a folder somewhere containing multiple subfolders, each one of which you want put into its own ISO (of the same name).

Can't believe after 20 years of me manually putting VIDEO TS and BDMV folders to ISOs that I have never asked if ImgBurn (or any software) can do this by batch ? At the moment I use TMPGEnc Authoring Works to batch encode 15 or so DVDs/Blu-Ray projects to folders (it can't batch ISOs). Then after I have to ISO up each one using ImgBurn. Is there any way to batch up these folders to ISO images ? If not via ImgBurn any other software that can ? EDIT : I just found this script on this forum, if it can't be done via the GUI how do I use this script ? Thanks everyone.

It shouldn't matter. The file system type is generally independent of the media size when it comes to optical discs. (Older file system types, though, generally ARE, but should not be here with UDF 2.50 and 2.60.) However, I would recommend the 2.50 if your primary concern is getting these MP3's/whatever container format to be recognized on a standalone Blu-Ray player. Using the older one should be more compatible universally with hardware.

I'm getting ready to burn my first BD-XL ever, filled with music albums I bought online for the past two years, and I want to maximize the chances that it will be read by my 4K Blu-ray players. I can't find anywhere if BD-XLs are supposed to be 2.50 or 2.60. Does anyone here know?

I don't think it's necessarily obvious that the ASUS BW-16D1HT is a rebadged LG. The primary indication that leads me to believe it's more than just an LG drive with custom firmware is how long the ASUS lasts. I've had it 1.5 years now and it still works. The LG WH16NS40 and NS60 generally all needed replacing after 7 months of usage for me. And I used the NS60 nearly 10 years, I think.

If you are using a laptop burner, that would be a slim model drive. Slim model drives, in general, are absolutely terrible writers.

It appears you are trying to burn a Dreamcast image. I have used CMC magnetics on my desktop burners and had no issue with a Dreamcast game I burned back in May 2024. yours appears to be a laptop type of burner which I suspect are more finicky in general. p.s. while you can do that if you want, if you got a half-decent PC you can just use Flycast or Redream emulators which in all honesty I prefer over using a real Dreamcast (I still got my original Dreamcast which can read CD-R's).

Yeah, I think it was over a year ago that LG stopped manufacturing NS60's. I got two refurbished ones in reserve from around that point.

impossible for me to find the NS60 drives these days so i cant speak on experience.

Awesome, glad to hear that! I'll try out the new discs once they arrive and report back. Thanks!

Actually, you just told me what I needed to know from the logs. You're using the Life Series DVD+R DL from Verbatim, which means they're CMC Magnetics media. As you've found out, those are the worst quality discs out there. I was going to check the Log for a Disc ID that said CMC. If it did, I was going to recommend the DataLife Plus Series or AZO Verbatim DVD+R DL's. That's where I'd start first to troubleshoot your issue.

Thanks for the response! I ended up closing out the program a little while after posting this and testing out the burned disc, but it was unreadable. To clarify, I'm using Verbatim LifeSeries DVD + R DL 8.5 GB 8x discs. I did come across the references here that those aren't recommended and ordered some of the same in AZO so I'll give it another try when those arrive and see if that changes things. No log at the moment as I'm at work but I can try burning another disc and grab the log just to cover all bases later today.

Can you find the log portion of the burn and copy and paste that here? You can access the Log under Help --> ImgBurn Logs. In the meantime, no, it is far from normal to take an hour to verify a dual layer disc. Unless you're verifying a BD-RE DL. That theoretically could. However, it's definitely not normal to take 10 minutes on layer 0 and then over an hour on layer 1. Also, what did you burn? A DVD+R DL? An 8x DVD+R DL will Verify in like 15 minutes total at the most. It may be possible to skip the Verify, but it's not recommended. In the meantime, you could try to Read that disc, however, I feel the same thing as what you experienced with the Verify will happen. However, if it did complete the Read within a reasonable amount of time, that is a good indication the burn was okay. Not as thorough as a Verify, though, but it's a good sign.

New to ImgBurn, but just wanted to check if what I'm experiencing is a normal and expected thing or not. My burn completed successfully, but it's been on the verification step for quite a while now. According to the log, verifying layer 0 took about 10 minutes, but it's been on Verifying Layer 1... (LBA: 1913760 - 3825923) for almost an hour now. The program doesn't appear to be frozen or anything, so I'm just wondering if this is to be expected? Alternatively, since the burn says it was successfully completed, would it be ok to just stop the verification? Thanks for any assistance!

I remember the NS60, at least, would complete burns to Verbatim BD-RE DL, unlike the NS40 which would fail 9 times out of 10. However, I don't think the NS60 was very good at it because the BD-RE DL's I were using were yearly backup discs. I'd go after writing a backup 1 year to reusing the same disc a year later and the burn would fail to complete writing. Now, could be just terrible BD-RE DL's on Verbatim's part, but I doubt it. They were the kind you could only find in Japan, with the Japanese writing on the packaging.

heres the link to the wh16ns58 on amazon: https://a.co/d/3JZJB36 it looks like a OEMed drive from Vinpower digital, a duplication company and it explicitly stated it should be better at burning disks and should support scanning. prob custom firmware also.

I'd not heard of the WH16NS58. Last I had heard, LG had discontinued the WH16NS60, leaving only the NS40. Which was a shame as last I used the NS40, it did not properly write to DL BD media, whereas the NS60 did. I used to use the NS60 exclusively over the NS40 for that reason. I still have 2 NS60's in reserve. There aren't even any listed firmware updates for the WH16NS58 on LG's web site.

your best bet is to buy a used external pioneer off ebay for now if you want good dual layer burning quality.

i actually bought the wh14n40 last year for like 50 bucks new on amazon when it was on sale. even buying it for 60 on newegg feels like a scam. btw i sold the wh14ns40 drive for the wh16ns58 (for BD scanning ability) its obvious its an LG drive that Asus OEMed since the structure is the same and the pcb is the same. the only difference is firmware. even that you could flash the firmware from the LG's into the asus and it will work fine since it has the same chipset. my only guess to the price hike is tariffs but that might kill the blu ray industry if they keep raising prices.

ASUS's BW-16D1HT is not an LG drive as far as I can tell. Hm, I hadn't checked on the WH16NS40 for a while on Amazon, but there are only a few resellers charging WAY too much for it when for the same price you can get ASUS's better drive. And something called the WH14NS40 is available from a few resellers at ridiculously worthless prices, too.

Pioneer is out of the business, so its no longer an option, and LG is crap at making blu ray drives for multi-layer blu ray burning. any alternatives? i suspect Verbatim will notice the drives they OEM from (LG) will start to make their customers being unsatisfied with the burns and will start complaining, which will force verbatim to demand LG to make their drives higher quality to properly burn discs. (Best case scenario) or this might be the end of blu ray burning.

Asus OEM's drives from LG. so LG is the only manufacturer of blu ray burners. also i noticed LG not selling their drives on Amazon. the only drives i see from them is newegg, which is weird since i always see lg on amazons website, they also raised their prices on their external burners.

Well, unfortunately, it's getting worse. Pioneer pulled out of the optical disc burner market altogether, basically leaving only 2 big name players in the business: ASUS and LG. As for CMC, it could be worse. I sunk about $2,000 chasing bad burns with new discs, burners, and DVD video recorders before I stumbled across the existence of CMC somewhere else. So, I checked the discs that had worked fine for years, and, sure enough, OptoDisc changed manufacturers to CMC, which was the cause of the problem. Once I switched to the good Verbatim DVD-R from Mitsubishi (The MCC kind. NOT the CMC kind.), the problem resolved itself.

After lurking the forums and your response as well, i agree. I screwed up and got the wrong "Verbatims". I have some legit Verbatims coming in the mail, ill report back to see if they make a difference. Sigh, why must it be difficult to relive the good ol" days.

I would blame the cheap CMC discs. I 12:25:08 Destination Media Type: DVD+R DL (Disc ID: CMC MAG-D03-64) CMC Magnetics makes the worst optical disc media out there. I'm actually more amazed your burn COMPLETED and Verify PASSED with CMC media than just outright failing, failing to complete burn, or failing to complete Verify at the layer change. The only viable option for DVD+R DL is the Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO ones. NOT the Life Series DVD+R DL you find in brick and mortar stores. Those are the CMC crap. The DataLife Plus/AZO are the MKM media made by Mitsubishi. And those you generally only find in online stores like Amazon.com.