dbminter

Try changing your I/O interface in ImgBurn. Tools --> Settings --> I/O --> Page 1 --> Interface Try changing each option one at a time, restarting ImgBurn after each change, just to be sure.

You're welcome. As for what can create ISO images of USB thumb drives, I would try Rufus if I were going to. I've used Rufus to write bootable ISO image files to USB thumb drives before, but I don't know if it can create them.

That would be my first step. It may not be the cure all that others have found, but it's where I would start.

Here's your most likely culprit: I 20:35:44 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magnetics makes the worst quality discs out there. You probably got the Verbatim Life Series in a brick and mortar store. You want the Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT the Life Series.) or AZO CD-R which you'll only find in online stores, generally. CMC Magnetics is responsible for over 50% of the problems seen on this board and switching away from the junk media generally solves most people's issues. Not always, though.

No. The only ISO creation that is done by ImgBurn is to read optical discs or if you supplied it with files in Build mode. Now, it's theoretically possibly to create a bootable ISO in ImgBurn in Build mode if you know all the necessary boot settings, but I've never successfully gotten that feature to work. In short, ImgBurn won't create ISO's of USB thumb drives or external HDD's.

ImgBurn cannot write to USB thumb drives except if you used one as the target for creating an image from a disc or in Build mode. So, you're right in that ImgBurn cannot create a bootable USB thumb drive.

Where depends on what part of the world you live in. You want the AZO or DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series.) CD-R from Verbatim and those can generally only be found in online stores. I get mine from Amazon.com, but I live in the US. Verbatim's own online store should have them, too.

It's like my first generation fat model PS 2 from October 2000. I haven't played anything on that since 2006. After that, for a year or 2, I would boot it once a month to make sure it still worked. But, after that, it's been powered off ever since. It's still hooked up, but I haven't checked to make sure it still works for almost 15 years.

The 1.41 firmware notes seem to indicate that firmware is for modified drives, so it may not apply to your particular unit. 1.39 firmware is the latest firmware before 1.41. So, your best bet is to get a different drive. However, I believe for XBox games, you need either a specific model of DVD burner or one with a specifically modified firmware in order to create discs that work.

Is 1.39 your current firmware? If so, there's a 1.41 firmware you can try: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/ODD/DVD-RW/DRW-1608P2/ASUS_DRW-1608P2_FW141EU.ZIP?model=DRW-1608P2 BUT, be aware that the latest model of the ASUS Blu-Ray burner has a fatal flaw in. It, too, does not properly burn to DVD+R DL. And ASUS refuses to address the issue in the past 4 years. So, good luck getting that ASUS to work.

About your only solutions are going to be a firmware update or get a different drive. You're using the quality media, and since MKM is the only quality DVD+R DL out there, there's really no option to change to something else that might burn. IF you can find them, 4x or 2.4x MKM media MIGHT work.

What exactly is the error? It's impossible to tell from the video alone, because I had the audio muted.

Most branded discs like that one, with the company logo on it, limit to where you can write. You can write anywhere, but to clearly see it, you have to write on the lines at the bottom. However, I think the lines are only for sake of clarity. Meaning, that they're not limiting you to just that area. I would think, though I have no scientific data to back this up with, you could write anywhere.

You never want LTH BD-R's. They use organic dyes so they'll die faster. Their only benefit is to the manufacturers as LTH allows them to repurpose DVD production lines which are not longer making anything into producing BD-R's. They also have higher compatibility and read issues. The ultra fine points have their advantages. They won't write as much ink on the disc. You can fit more writing on the discs because the lines are thinner. I've used those dual tipped Sharpies in the past. To be honest, it's been like 15 or 20 years since I last bought CD markers, so I don't know of any particular brand to get over another. In fact, last I needed them, those 15 to 20 year old CD markers still hadn't dried out yet.

I somehow overlooked the DVD brand question. I would only use Verbatim or TY. If you're using Verbatim, be sure to get the DataLife Plus or AZO listed media. NOT the Life Series. The Life Series are junk. A few years ago, I recently went through my DVD collection to copy the non Verbatim and TY discs to the better quality media. Those discs I made unwittingly before I knew of things like CMC, etc. After 18 or 19 years, my Verbatim and TY's were all still readable. And all of those were burned at the highest rated speed, but back then, the highest rated speeds were like 1x, 2x, 4x, and 8x. Lower speeds than available today. The unreadables were the junk like CMC, Vanguard, Ritek (DVD+R DL only). And some "higher" quality discs like Maxell had a few that weren't fully readable. In fact, I've only ever had 1 Verbatim high quality disc, a DVD+R DL, that was partially unreadable after passing a burn and Verify some short time later. 1 in like a thousand.

I really don't know much about the file systems. I just always used the latest UDF version available because backwards compatibility with older Windows systems wasn't a concern of mine. The only time I never use UDF is when I'm creating DVD Video discs, which requires ISO9660. And I would guess Audio CD probably doesn't use UDF, but I don't know what it uses.

Unfortunately, it's been so long since I used Windows 7, I don't remember what the maximum file system versions were that were available in ImgBurn. I do know UDF 2.60 works on Windows 11, which is basically just an advanced Windows 10. And if UDF 2.60 is an available option in the current version of ImgBurn, which was released 10 years ago, it should work with Windows 10.

Oh, I forgot you had mentioned you wanted backwards compatibility with Windows 7. I don't know if UDF 2.60 works on Windows 7 or not, so I couldn't say. But, I also don't know if UDF 2.50 was around before Windows 7 or not.

Interesting. I was not aware of alternate symbols that resembled question marks and backslashes. Since I don't know what file set they are from, I couldn't say if ImgBurn will remove those special characters or not. You can find out, though, easily enough. In Build mode, add one of these alternate ? files for creating an ISO and then exit out of the Advanced interface. Check the ImgBurn log window for any yellow triangles that would say something like file names altered to conform to the file system standard you set. If there are any such, ImgBurn can't use those alternate symbols in the file system you selected. So, possibly UDF 2.60 would. That's the newest standard supported, so if UDF 2.60 doesn't work, nothing most likely will. 4x would be fine. I always burn at the fastest speed possible and rarely have an issue. I don't particularly care about lower speeds. As long as a burn completes at the highest speed I set and passes Verify afterwards, that's my main concern. Also be aware that if you set the speed to a certain value, the drive won't always honor it. The speed set is always down to the hardware. So, sometimes, the drive ignores the speed values set in ImgBurn and burns at whatever it wants to.

Some of the answers: It's not necessary to create an ISO first. However, if you don't and your burn fails, you have to go through the entire process you just went through of beginning the burn all over again. If you create an ISO first, you just start the ISO burn again. No, you don't need to set to the layer break position to the same arbitrary position every time you burn a double layer DVD. In fact, you really CAN'T. The layer break is set based on the contents that are loaded from the VIDEO_TS. Plus, you may want to set the layer break at one of the different available options. As for questions about music files named with a question mark, the bigger question is HOW you named a file with a ? in its file name. ? is not an allowed character on Windows for file names. DVD-R has better compatibility with older DVD players. However, most modern DVD players have no problems with DVD+R. I believe DVD-R is SLIGHTLY larger so you can fit a few more MB on it. The question about Sharpies is a long standing one with no really specific answer. To be safe, I have both Sharpies and CD markers. If the disc has an inkjet printable label on it, I feel comfortable writing on it with a Sharpie. I've also used ultra fine Sharpies to write on branded DVD label surfaces. As for CD's, I only ever used the CD markers for those, just to be safe.

Reading PS 1 games can be a real hit or miss affair. Not all were manufactured the same way. Some used mixed mode with data and audio tracks. Some used purely data. ImgBurn also has difficulties with some PS 1 discs and reading hardware combinations. You might want to try using Alcohol 120% to read to an image file and see if you get a checksum that matches after that.

I can verify it does as I just used it yesterday. Due to its age, though, the Log will say your OS is older than Windows 11. Just a cosmetic thing.

Well, I've tested it enough to know that 1.05 firmware is still not ready for prime time. While the Ritek Verify issue was fixed, a new one came up. I wrote an unformatted Imation Ritek 8x DVD+RW at 8x that wrote and verified fine. However, my 2nd attempt to write to the same disc only wrote at 6x max. While it did pass Verify, it did not write at the maximum rate. #2: Disc ID: MCC 03RG20) 16x DVD-R: wrote at only 14.5x max. Otherwise, PASSED! Not TOO off from maximum write speed, though. #3 though is a deal killer. 8x branded Verbatim MKM-003-00 DVD+R DL wrote at only 4x max! Once again, despite its few drawbacks, the LG WH16NS60 is still the one to get. So, back goes yet another BDR-2213! I'll let Pioneer know they dropped the ball again and that they need to update the firmware yet AGAIN!

A firmware update, 1.05, was released for the BDR-213 on September 20th. So, I got another one of these units to try it out. The good news is, apparently, after my last e-mail to Pioneer tech support, they did address the 8x Ritek DVD+RW issue. A brand new, unformatted disc wrote and verified without error. So, now I'm testing other media in it.

Actually, I believe given how much data is needed to be written to Blu-Ray, you must use a USB 3.0 enclosure for a Blu-Ray drive if you plan to write Blu-Rays to it. Otherwise, you might get by with a Blu-Ray burner in a USB 2.x enclosure if you plan on only writing CD's and DVD's in it. The USB speed has nothing to do with how fast any device in an enclosure will write. Media are capped at specific speeds depending on the media. Even reads probably wouldn't be faster. While the USB 3.0 would send data faster, the device is still capped at a maximum speed it can read at.