dbminter

The GT80N does support M-Disc. However, it is a slim model drive and slim model drives can be notoriously bad junk. Particularly when it comes to writing. Plus, is this M-Disc a single layer or multiple? What is the manufacturer of the M-Disc? Post the entire Log of the operation if you can. That may answer some of these questions for me.

I don't believe there's been much concrete data on the longevity of DVD-RW for archival purposes, but I believe I do have a relevant data point. I came across a RITEK 4x DVD-RW where I had written files to it in January of 2005. Nearly the entire disc's contents were full. I am in the process of copying over that data now. There's over 27,000 individual files, so the read process is slow. It's a bit over 50% done with nearly half an hour estimated to go. So, if this disc's contents can be fully read, this is a concrete, real world experience data point of the archival longevity of DVD-RW. One can expect data written to a RITEK DVD-RW to still be readable about 20 years later.

Well, I have determined it is NOT the ASUS drive that is at fault. It is the BD-R's I have. I wrote one of these Verbatim BD-R is an LG WH16NS60. It burned and passed Verify but FAILED Verify today less than 2 months later. Since it fails on BOTH the ASUS and the LG, the issue is with the BD-R's. So, what this means is I either got a bad batch of Verbatim BD-R's OR Verbatim made a running change to their BD-R's and firmware needs updating to write properly to it. Which is the kiss of death for Verbatim BD-R as NO ONE is updating their firmware anymore. There is precedence for Verbatim to make running changes to the manufacturing processes of its discs that borks them. One such running change occurred on their DataLife Plus DVD-R and the NS60 would not write to them until a firmware update fixed it.

While I can't answer the first part directly, I can comment on the MID. It seems for CD's, MID's don't really "apply." So, some CD-R have MID's that list the maximum space capacity, in this case the running time of the CD itself. As for the first part, be aware that even if you do set a user defined maximum Write speed, it may not always be honored. The drive itself basically makes the final decision as to what write speed it will write at.

I've never gotten an overburn to work correctly, so it may well be that the ISO is simply too large for the target media.

Well, I've never had an XBox, so I can't say for certain this is how it behaves, but I am relatively sure. If you're talking about an older XBox specifically, this would apply. Unless your XBox natively supports playing MP4 video container files directly, you can't just put an MP4 on any disc and expect the XBox to play it. You will need to convert the MP4 to VIDEO_TS first to make it a DVD Video disc. I've used ConvertXToDVD to do this for like 15 years now, but it is paid software. As for any freeware options, I couldn't say.

Try changing the I/O Interface and see if you get better results with a different one. Tools --> Settings --> I/O --> Page 1 --> Interface and check a different box. I would recommend closing and restarting ImgBurn after each change of the Interface to be safe.

For me, the Log window is its "default size" at some distance separated from the main ImgBurn window. In other words, it's not snapped/docked to the main ImgBurn window.

That is a bit of an annoyance. There are 2 temporary workaround that might work. One is to dock the Log window with the ImgBurn main interface window. I haven't tried that yet but it might work. What DOES work is what I've done. I moved the OK completion window well to the right side of the Log window so it can't go behind the Log window. It's a bit of an inconvenience and isn't pretty but it works.

Unfortunately, the bottom line with the hardware is it will do whatever it wants to do in the end. You can set your own user defined write speeds, but the drive may ultimately ignore them. The Windows 10 thing is most likely the cosmetic issue. Due to the age of the last ImgBurn release, Windows 10 is reported as Windows 8 since Windows 10 didn't exist at the time of the last ImgBurn gold release. This has been addressed in subsequent beta releases and will make into the next gold release, which will identify Windows 10 as such in the Log. And, no, don't ask when the next gold release is.

This is your most likely reason: I 13:43:11 Destination Media Type: DVD+R DL (Disc ID: RICOHJPN-D01-67) The only reliable DVD+R DL discs are the DataLife Plus MKM ones made by Verbatim. Everything else is mostly junk. I know from personal experience Ricoh's are. I tested 3 of them and out of the 3, 2 were totally unreadable less than 6 months later. You will generally only find the DataLife Plus ones in online stores like Amazon. Do NOT get the Verbatim Life Series. Those are CMC Magnetics and they ARE the worst out there.

The bottom line is a drive will write at whatever speed it wants to write at. It may honor user requests for faster or slower speeds, but it will always make its own final decision. Have you always used these Sony discs? Sony doesn't make the best media out there.

Probably the conversion software you used to turn the MPG into DVD Video. Wait, are you natively playing the MPG on a standalone DVD player? Burning the MPG to a disc and then playing the file from that disc on a standalone DVD player? If that's the case and if the MPG plays fine on your PC, then it's the process of burning to a disc that is in play here. And that would be a result of either your burner not doing it right or the discs you burned to.

The giveaway for me is what you said about your PS1 grinding and making noise attempting to read the CD-R's. That indicates to me you're probably using Life Series CD-R from Verbatim, which are their junk CMC discs you find in brick and mortar stores. So, I would blame the CD-R's you're using. First thing I would try is using the DataLife Plus series CD-R's, NOT the Life Series, which are different but just confusingly similar enough to try and trick people into buying them. You will only find the DataLife Plus discs, generally, in online stores like Amazon.com. ImgBurn settings generally are unimportant in cases of burning image files. About the only real setting that matters is changing the write speed so you don't burn at the maximum and a slower speed might improve results. I would say Total Errors in Sector for ALL burns IS a big deal. That would be either down to errors in the image file itself, the burner you're using, the CD-R's you're using, or a combination of those factors.

Under the 3 gray dots, you should usually find commands to Edit and Delete a post. Why only Share is there is odd. Share is your only option when you're generally recognized as not being the one who started a thread.

ImgBurn, pretty much, has always written to optical media for output, save for image files saved to whatever random access memory it is directed to use. And, now, Windows, etc. installation/recovery/repair media has gotten bigger than DVD DL. So, it's almost exclusively written to flash drives now. Although BD can be used for this purpose with a program like Rufus, it is beyond the scope of ImgBurn to do that. Plus, getting working bootable media for Windows with ImgBurn other than writing an ISO to a disc is something I never got working in the first place.

I hadn't thought of that, so it's entirely possible the OP is attempting to erase WORM discs, which may explain the failures. To the OP: attempt another erase of a disc but copy and paste the log of the operation in its entirety.

The first log portion shows it's a DVD-RW. I failed to notice that before, but that could be a key point. This drive may not be a DVD-RW capable one. It may not write to DVD-RW, only DVD+RW. Oh, wait, just now noticed the 2nd portion of that log said it was trying to erase a DVD+RW. So, it can't be that.

You could try changing the I//O Interface, but I doubt that will help. Tools --> Settings --> I/O tab --> Page 1 --> Interface Try each one one at a time and see if it gets better. I'd recommend you close and restart ImgBurn after each change of the I/O Interface. However, I'd lean more towards the drive you're using. It's most likely either defective or just a pretty poor device. You may want to try a different make, model, and manufacturer and see if it's repeatable. You're also using a half height drive in a USB enclosure, it looks like. Or that drive was bought as an external. The LH-18A1H is a half height model, but you could have always bought it as an external version that came in its own enclosure. Either way, I'm saying the problem could be the USB enclosure. If you're using a separate USB enclosure you bought yourself, what manufacturer and model is it?

Copy protection could be a cause, but it generally doesn't matter in cases like these. First, is this a PC game disc or something for Playstation, Dreamcast, etc.? Generally, freezes at Tracks are a conflict between the disc itself, the hardware being used, and ImgBurn. You could try using other drives to read the disc, but you will probably not get anywhere with doing that. The only solution I've come across for game discs that ImgBurn won't read is to download and install Alcohol 52%/120% free version. Particularly for Playstation game discs, Alcohol will often times read in discs that ImgBurn can't. It could also be a case where the disc simply has deteriorated over the years and suffered layer rot, which means it can't be read in.

Well, I'm not sure what to make of this. All of the failures are from the same day: 2024-06-25. All discs written between 2024-06-10 and 2024-06-24 Verify fine now. There was only 1 disc, a BD-R, written after that on 2024-06-26 and that Verified fine.

Now, it's possible that my ASUS may have simply reached the end of its life for writing BD-R. However, the fact that it STILL writes AND Verifies even though it's not doing it properly still means it's not reliable for long term storage. I am Verifying other BD-R's written before 2024-06-25 right now to see if there are any other failures. It's also always possible I've got a bad batch of BD-R's that were okay part way through and only corrupt at the point starting around 2024-06-25. Such things generally don't occur, though. Issues such as these are generally down to poorly designed drives. Particularly since this is my first long term introduction to this ASUS's use, it's hard to trust it for long term storage when the LG WH16NS60 has always been reliable for long term storage of BD-R.

ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE THIS DRIVE! I had a BD-R that was written 2024-06-25 that was mostly unreadable on 2024-09-19. So, I started going over discs written around this time. The 2nd disc I attempted to read that was written on 2024-06-25 would not even read in the first sector! Not in the ASUS or a Pioneer. So, this drive is unreliable for long term storage when writing to BD-R. Now, I Verified a BD-R written on 2024-06-21 successfully. So, I need to test discs before then and the other disc remaining written on 2024-06-26. However, what this indicates is the drive is unreliable for writing quality VERBAT-IM BD-R for long term storage. This could be flukes with the BD-R's being bad, BUT IF they ARE, the ASUS is writing them AND Verifying them at the TIME! Which means the drive is not reliable.

Have you actually gotten the virus or is it just embedded in the BurnPlot installer file? If it's the latter, there's little you can do to remove virus packages from files.

ImgBurn has never done any DVD authoring. It only burned what you threw at it except converting files to Audio CD's.