LIGHTNING UK!

Can you post the MediaInfo details of one of the Flac files please? Also, which OS are you running?

It's not the CUE file. Take off K-Lite and just use the recommended madFlac one. Make sure it's installing itself properly as having things like UAC enabled etc can complicate things. Double check there's nothing funny about your Flac file too. Check their details using something like MediaInfo.

My guess is the filter isn't installed properly or your files are in a format it can't decode.

Why can't you copy and paste? Are you getting an error? It's no good just saying you can't. I don't want you to burn anything, just provide exactly what I've asked for. Of course I've looked through what you've posted. There's nothing you're doing wrong, your drive (or more likely, your machine) is just messing up. That's why I've asked for additional 'family tree' info.

The cue is fine. You have a different file for each track, that's why its time doesn't change... You're always reading from the start of the file. Post the log from the burn please.

Go into write mode, right click the drive selection box and pick 'family tree'. Close the box that comes up and copy + paste everything from the log window straight into your reply. There's no need for wordpad.

The drive's OPC is nothing to do with ImgBurn, so uninstalling / reinstalling doesn't touch it. There's no reason for your drive to behave differently in your new machine. It's a piece of hardware and should be no more / less capable of burning discs now than it was before. If your old PC is still usable, put the drive back in it and try it again. Do not clear OPC each time, it's there so the drive can 'learn' how to burn. I said to do it once so it cleared out anything weird, after that you shouldn't touch it again.

Did you clear the drive's OPC history like I told you to in my previous post? Please do a kprobe scan on that disc @ 4x and post a screenshot of the final graph (not just the results/numbers/figures). Maybe your drive needs cleaning or you've got a bad batch of discs.

Please just copy + paste the *full* log from the Log window (or full session log from log file if you've closed the app down). You can access the auto-saved log via the 'Help' menu.

This stuff is easy to Google. Read up on what m-disc actually is. http://www.mdisc.com

1. yes 2. I've no idea. If you want really durable media, buy some M-Disc discs.

Sorry but you're going to need to update your version of ImgBurn for us to even begin tying to help you. 2.5.8.0 is the current one.

You can't go far wrong with Taiyo Yuden CDs and Verbatim / Taiyo Yuden DVDs.

It has settings but you don't need to touch them, it works just fine with the default ones.

I very much doubt that other application even attempted to zero the sectors. Zeroing is effectively the same as burning data to the disc (just with zeros rather than actual data) and your drive seems unable to do that... so you should expect a real write operation with real to fail too.

It doesn't contain malware. It contains a plugin that offers you 3rd party software. That can offer various different things (from a wide range - toolbars, browsers, other apps etc) but you're free to opt out of installing them. 2.5.7.0 (and a good few versions before that) was bundled with the ask.com browser toolbar and you had to opt out of that too if you didn't want it. So recommending one over the other is daft. You want the latest one so you have the new and improved features / bug fixes.

Same problem without the port multiplier? I.e. Just one drive at a time. It's erroring out after about 10 seconds so that's probably just something the controller card or multiplier is doing. The program sets a much longer timeout as optical drives need that - it's being ignored. Maybe a firmware or driver update for the card would help?

Same problem at the other supported write speeds? Try another spindle of discs and perhaps cleaning the drive with a cleaning disc.

That doesn't change my answer. The way you've got it configured will make it fail like that.

That's because you've messed around with the settings. Put the layer break option back on calculate optimal and load the .dvd file rather than the .iso to configure it correctly. You still won't be able to burn that image properly though, it's too big to fit on the disc.

You'll never achieve what you want. The lowest speed the DVD+R format really every supported was 2.4x. What makes you think you must burn at 1x anyway?

No, you can't make a drive do anything it doesn't want to and yours doesn't want to burn at anything other than 4x or 8x.

Try some other discs.

You don't need to 'extract' anything, you can just use copy and paste using Explorer. If you want to take an actual image of the disc and then burn it to a normal sized dvd, use Read mode and then Write mode. Btw, your forum email address is no longer valid. Your topic subscription emails are bouncing back.

What does a kprobe scan of that disc look like? Reset imgburn back to the default settings, you don't need to touch anything to get s burn that works fine. Clear the drive's OPC history and try again. That disc is unreadable long before the layerbreak, which is where these things usually fail.