LIGHTNING UK!

No, LiteOn don't offer any BD-XL drives at the moment. I'm sure it won't be long before they do though.

Yes but it's not something that would/should ever sway your decision on which drive to purchase, it's a pretty useless feature. If you don't want someone to read your discs once you've thrown them away, snap them in half first and save yourself loads of time. What might sway my decision is the ability to scan discs with the LiteOn drives. For that reason alone, I could never be without one. I'm not sure I'd choose to use my LiteOn drives over any of the others for burning discs though.

Well, it might have, but there aren't any available for your drive. That was the first thing I checked once I'd looked at the log in your initial post. You aren't the first person I've helped you know

2 ST5's. My machine is basically a GA-Z68X-UD5 motherboard with an i7-2600K CPU and 16GB RAM. If I haven't replied, you can edit your posts you know? No need to make 2 or 3 in a row with a single line in them - that's kinda annoying.

You can't just go by the dates of the firmware on Firmware HQ... at least not if you've got a slimline drive in a laptop. Different manufacturers have different firmware version naming schemes. Yours is DW50, so the next would probably be DW60 or something - whereas the newest one listed on Firmware HQ is totally different. No, GameBooster isn't the problem.

It's easy to find with Google http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/Hard-Disk-Utils/HP-USB-Disk-Storage-Format-Tool.shtml I've never used nor heard of that other one you mentioned... but then I've had no reason to go hunting for such things since I made mine with the HP one.

That all depends on where in the world you are. Here in the UK, I can pick up a new 'SATA' DVD burner for as little as £12. To replace your current drive, you'd need an 'IDE' DVD burner rather than an 'SATA' one.... they use a different connector (Google IDE/SATA). IDE drives are all but phased out now and so are getting harder and harder to find. That said, I'm sure eBay would have some. If you're in the US, try places like Newegg, Frys, PCWorld or whatever else you have over there that sells computer bits. Yes, you'd take out your old CD burner and put the new DVD burner in its place. It's just a case of taking the lid off your PC, undoing a few (probably 4) screws, unplugging a couple of cables, sliding out the old drive, sliding in the new drive, plugging in a couple of cables, doing up a few screws, putting the lid back on. There's bound to be a video of someone doing it on Youtube if you get stuck or are worried about it.

Ah see now any sort of write error on a BD-RE is an issue. Although the retries are successful, chances are that the actual position of the error was not at the position the drive eventually errored out at - it's all due to the drives internal buffer complicating things - so the sectors ImgBurn successfully retried weren't ever the issue anyway. At this point I'd probably say to do another full erase on the disc and try again. Make sure you re-enable the 'Verify' option so the program can check your drive did an ok job of burning the disc and that all the data is present and correct. Your player is stuttering because some of it is missing/incorrect. If it has to retry anything during that new write, go into the settings and uncheck the 'Prefer Format Without Spare Areas' option on the Write tab. Then do another full erase and try burning it again. If it still fails to burn nicely after that, try another disc.

It's not what you're burning that's the problem here, so changing that doesn't make any difference. You need to test with different discs (that's what I meant by supplies/media). Some other Verbatim 2.4x MKM-001-00's would do... or even some Verbatim 8x MKM-003-00's. The ones made in Singapore seem to be the best - check the label on the tub.

It isn't, no.

Did you just copy + paste that off a Lite-On advert? SmartErase is a feature of their drives. If you want all that stuff then you'll need to buy the iHBS212. 3D support comes from the software you use for playback, not the drive. The LiteOn drives are handy because you can do disc quality scans with them. As I said before, I don't know what to recommend as the 'best' because I simply don't look at drives that way. Look at some reviews online - perhaps over the the MyCE forums.

Do you know what car that is? Yes, I still have it and it's coming up for being 10 years old now. One of these days I'll change it, but it stills puts a smile on my face and doesn't get a whole lot of use. My current case is a Lian Li PC-V2010. I also have 2 of these sitting by the side of it. http://www.imgburn.com/index.php?act=reviews&rev=2

There is nothing you can do with the layer break on a Blu-ray disc. You treat them as if they never existed in the first place. If your player is having trouble reading them, I can only assume the burn quality wasn't all that. Post the log from you burning+verifying such a disc please. (as per the pink box up top )

When you're talking about writing to over 4 million sectors, 47% actually covers quite a range If you don't have other supplies (media) to test with, it's very hard to rule stuff out.

That's probably a firewall issue. What happens if you boot your machine in safe mode?

Good burns come from a decent drive/firmware/media combo. The software plays no part in it. You might get away with using the cheapo 'Daxon' stuff in some drives but the one you're using doesn't appear to like it very much. Whilst that *could* be due to a problem with your drive, I'm inclined to go with media at this stage. You'll get no (or at least a LOT less) coasters and better quality burns on decent media, plus it'll be easier to read in other drives and last longer.

Those entries from both logs look the same to me, so the file should come out to the same size too.

If it's an image and you want it to work (run), no. ISO images are meant for burning to a single, empty disc (of the correct size). If it's just some (smaller) stuff you want to backup, yes you could probably split it up into 690MB chunks and spread it over a few CDs. But in that case, have you considered using a USB stick or external hard drive instead?

You could have Googled the model numbers and found out for yourself in about 30 seconds but I'll tell you anyway.... it's the Pioneer BDR-207M. I can't give you an answer for which is the 'best' Blu-ray drive I own because I don't spend time trying to figure that out. I do a bunch of burns+scans with them sometimes (and post them in the 'Drives' or 'Media' forums) but I don't attempt to compile them and make any sort of conclusion. The LG and Pioneer models in my PC at the moment are both decent drives.

It's certainly a lot quicker... so yeah, try the link first.

It appears to be readable in that drive but others might have a problem with it.

Imation is just a brand name, it's the MID / dye the discs use that's important. Yours are 'DAXON-AZ3-00'. AWS doesn't do anything if you don't configure it ('it' being the 'Automatic Write Speed' feature - and there's a guide for it in the Guides section)

It would be the 'pci ide controllers', you can leave the 'ide channel' and 'ricoh *' ones. Did you try the Microsoft 'Fix It' I linked you to?

You can access old logs via the 'Help' menu Maybe you could get the image over to your DVD burning machine via a network / usb drive / external hdd etc?

Of course it's possible, that's what most people have these days. All DVD burners will do CDs too. Just the same as all Blu-ray burners will burn DVDs and CDs.