LIGHTNING UK!

I'd probably start by burning at 4x instead of 8x. I see the drive is on a controller in RAID mode. What controller is that drive attached to? or what chipset does your motherboard use? You could right click the drive selection box and click the 'Family Tree' option to get all the info I need. Just do that, close the prompt and then copy + paste the info from the log window. It might be worth crossflashing that drive to the real LiteOn that it is - there will probably be a newer firmware for it than your current HP model.

No. You seem to have disabled 'Verify' so I can't tell if the disc is even readable in the drive that burnt it. You should read this - http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=12200

There's no way to do that. You'd have to offset the image itself. I fully understand you wanting an accurate copy, but do remember the offsets are usually just a few samples (4 bytes per sample). So that's a few bytes in a 2352 byte sector - and a sector is 1/75th of a second. I very much doubt you (or anyone else in the world) could/would actually 'hear' that difference. For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure LiteOn drives can read and write without losing anything (the offsets must cancel each other out or something).

You still need them in the correct BD Video format/folder structure. This isn't something ImgBurn does.

ImgBurn just burns exactly what you give it, so your player must have a problem with the file itself.

ImgBurn just burns as-is. So if your source files contain 5.1 or 7.1, that's what the files on the disc will have. Stuff like that gets changed by your authoring/reauthoring/compression program - never by the program/component responsible for the actual burning phase.

Some combination of that, your drive and its firmware, yes. They are what determines success/failure of a burn, not the software - which has nothing to do with the actual burning of the disc. You should update ImgBurn and install Service Pack 1 for Windows 7.

I don't really use anything else. I guess you could try some Aone Plus Gold Edition discs (ebay them).

http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

Suggestions / recommendations can be found in the following 'pinned' thread (which is also linked in the pink box up the top). http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

Ok well as I said in my previous message, this sounds like a system issue. If you're bored one day and have discs to burn, try enabling I/O debug mode before you start the 'Write' operation going - to do that, press the F8 key - you should see a log entry saying it has been enabled. The additional logging will show us which command your system is getting stuck on.

Sony has a product that calls up ImgBurn?! I didn't know that! So is it burning the disc on the fly? Maybe you'd be better off just making an image - at least then you know nothing else can go wrong/change between burns on a BD-RE DL and a BD-R DL. Of the 2 discs you're talking about here, do they actually play ok on your PC or does the BD-R DL also play static on that?

The drive controls the speeds, not the program. The program can only request a speed the drive says it supports - anything else will simply be ignored by the drive (and it'll go with the closest 'supported' speed). If both discs burnt and verified ok, the data on both is identical - so there's nothing more you can really expect of the program. The PC that burnt the disc should be able to read it just fine and you shouldn't have a problem playing what's on it. How the burnt discs will behave in other players is anyone's guess.

That stuff is beyond the scope of ImgBurn (the drive takes care of it) so I don't really concern myself with it. Your best bet is to Google for such answers. I very much doubt anything is duplicated. There are set areas on discs where info is written (again, automatically by the drive and nothing to do with the software). I'm not sure if the TOC is actually recorded as a whole or just generated on the fly by reading other data. Plus these things usually change between formats - so DVD (and probably BD) behaves differently to CD.

Well you'd expect the inner area of the disc to read slower than the outer areas. Most drives ramp up their speed as they move outwards. For DVD, they might start at 6x and build up to 16x. There's is nothing 'written' before the file system and its descriptors. If something important like the table of contents gets destroyed then that's what makes a disc look blank - and there's nothing you can do about it.

You always have to start burning at the beginning. Include a dummy file in the root directory if you want to push everything towards the end of the disc. The file system will always come before file data though... but if it's unreadable and you're using UDF 2.50+, there will be a 2nd copy of that data at the end of the disc. To be honest though, if you're having to resort to such things then you should just change your drive/media and get one/some that works correctly.

I prefer to build images and then burn those. Whichever way round you do it, you'll still end up with the same thing on the disc.

Does the drive tray actually eject when it tries to 'cycle' it? If it does, does it then also reinsert it? This sounds more like an issue with your system than a bug in ImgBurn - as it's working fine for everyone else.

Yes, you toggle the log window open/closed via the 'View -> Log' option.

Write errors come from your drive/firmware/media combo. Your drive errors out, the program just reports them. ImgBurn doesn't do multisession so that's why you can't add data to a disc you've already burnt. Why don't you post a log so we can see what's going on.

It sounds like it isn't opening fully or something and you touching it is enough to make it think you're trying to push it closed manually (not via the button).

For the people that arrive here from a search, it's the 'View' menu at the top and then 'Log'.

Wow, 'PRINCORDL05' is a very rare MID.... it only showed up 3 times in a search I just made on this forum. Your drive doesn't support them, buy something else - and don't buy DVD-R DL, buy DVD+R DL.

That's ususally what happens when a drive hasn't done a very good job of burning a disc - the disc probably still appears blank after burning it and cycling the tray. Try again at 4x write speed. If that still doesn't work, try some different disc - something NOT using the 'RITEK-F16-01' MID/dye. Cleaning the drive with a cleaning disc may help too.

The first error is the important one. So... your drive is reporting a 'Write Error' when trying to burn those discs. If you have 3 drives failing to burn them, you should think about getting some other/better ones.