Jump to content

LIGHTNING UK!

Admin
  • Posts

    30,521
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by LIGHTNING UK!

  1. Ah, you didn't mention you wanted to do it via the command line It's not possible to just specify a top level folder in the IBB for Advanced input mode without also including all the folders/files below it. I'm working on adding support for it though (by means of 'folder\*') so hopefully it'll be possible in the next version.
  2. or burn it to a double layer disc
  3. Switch the 'Input' to 'Advanced' and you can name them whatever you want.
  4. Nope, it's nothing to do with ImgBurn.
  5. By default, it errors out at the first problem during a verify. The whole point in a verify is to detect the presence of errors, not to see how many there are in total. When you hit 1 error (and perhaps retry it a few times), you should pretty much just call it a day with that disc and burn another copy. That is of course assuming your drive is working correctly and not just erroring out due to it being dirty or whatever.
  6. The guys/gals at the MyCE forum are more into that stuff than I am. http://club.myce.com/f44/ At a guess though, I'd say an 'iHASx24 B' firmware would be right. I've been doing a bit of reading and there seems to be a few HP 1270 models. Yours is the 't' version! Other versions have been linked to 'iHASx24 A' and 'iHASx24 Y' models, so it makes sense for yours to be the newer 'iHASx24 B' version.
  7. I didn't say the controller was an issue, I just wanted to know more about it That said, I certainly wouldn't keep the drive on the VIA card if you have any choice in the matter. If you have any SATA ports spare, the Intel controller is the better option. So as it stands, when you burn at 8x you get communcation time out issues and at 4x the drive just flat out doesn't do anything - correct? This is where I'd certainly just double check it behaves the same way on another controller. If it does, think about cleaning it with a cleaning disc. After that, you can think about trying another spindle of discs, crossflashing to a real LiteOn and investing in a new drive.
  8. I'd probably start by burning at 4x instead of 8x. I see the drive is on a controller in RAID mode. What controller is that drive attached to? or what chipset does your motherboard use? You could right click the drive selection box and click the 'Family Tree' option to get all the info I need. Just do that, close the prompt and then copy + paste the info from the log window. It might be worth crossflashing that drive to the real LiteOn that it is - there will probably be a newer firmware for it than your current HP model.
  9. No. You seem to have disabled 'Verify' so I can't tell if the disc is even readable in the drive that burnt it. You should read this - http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=12200
  10. There's no way to do that. You'd have to offset the image itself. I fully understand you wanting an accurate copy, but do remember the offsets are usually just a few samples (4 bytes per sample). So that's a few bytes in a 2352 byte sector - and a sector is 1/75th of a second. I very much doubt you (or anyone else in the world) could/would actually 'hear' that difference. For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure LiteOn drives can read and write without losing anything (the offsets must cancel each other out or something).
  11. You still need them in the correct BD Video format/folder structure. This isn't something ImgBurn does.
  12. ImgBurn just burns exactly what you give it, so your player must have a problem with the file itself.
  13. ImgBurn just burns as-is. So if your source files contain 5.1 or 7.1, that's what the files on the disc will have. Stuff like that gets changed by your authoring/reauthoring/compression program - never by the program/component responsible for the actual burning phase.
  14. Some combination of that, your drive and its firmware, yes. They are what determines success/failure of a burn, not the software - which has nothing to do with the actual burning of the disc. You should update ImgBurn and install Service Pack 1 for Windows 7.
  15. I don't really use anything else. I guess you could try some Aone Plus Gold Edition discs (ebay them).
  16. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000
  17. Suggestions / recommendations can be found in the following 'pinned' thread (which is also linked in the pink box up the top). http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000
  18. Ok well as I said in my previous message, this sounds like a system issue. If you're bored one day and have discs to burn, try enabling I/O debug mode before you start the 'Write' operation going - to do that, press the F8 key - you should see a log entry saying it has been enabled. The additional logging will show us which command your system is getting stuck on.
  19. Sony has a product that calls up ImgBurn?! I didn't know that! So is it burning the disc on the fly? Maybe you'd be better off just making an image - at least then you know nothing else can go wrong/change between burns on a BD-RE DL and a BD-R DL. Of the 2 discs you're talking about here, do they actually play ok on your PC or does the BD-R DL also play static on that?
  20. The drive controls the speeds, not the program. The program can only request a speed the drive says it supports - anything else will simply be ignored by the drive (and it'll go with the closest 'supported' speed). If both discs burnt and verified ok, the data on both is identical - so there's nothing more you can really expect of the program. The PC that burnt the disc should be able to read it just fine and you shouldn't have a problem playing what's on it. How the burnt discs will behave in other players is anyone's guess.
  21. That stuff is beyond the scope of ImgBurn (the drive takes care of it) so I don't really concern myself with it. Your best bet is to Google for such answers. I very much doubt anything is duplicated. There are set areas on discs where info is written (again, automatically by the drive and nothing to do with the software). I'm not sure if the TOC is actually recorded as a whole or just generated on the fly by reading other data. Plus these things usually change between formats - so DVD (and probably BD) behaves differently to CD.
  22. Well you'd expect the inner area of the disc to read slower than the outer areas. Most drives ramp up their speed as they move outwards. For DVD, they might start at 6x and build up to 16x. There's is nothing 'written' before the file system and its descriptors. If something important like the table of contents gets destroyed then that's what makes a disc look blank - and there's nothing you can do about it.
  23. You always have to start burning at the beginning. Include a dummy file in the root directory if you want to push everything towards the end of the disc. The file system will always come before file data though... but if it's unreadable and you're using UDF 2.50+, there will be a 2nd copy of that data at the end of the disc. To be honest though, if you're having to resort to such things then you should just change your drive/media and get one/some that works correctly.
  24. I prefer to build images and then burn those. Whichever way round you do it, you'll still end up with the same thing on the disc.
  25. Does the drive tray actually eject when it tries to 'cycle' it? If it does, does it then also reinsert it? This sounds more like an issue with your system than a bug in ImgBurn - as it's working fine for everyone else.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.