LIGHTNING UK!

The ratings given to layer break positions are nothing to do with how readable the disc will be at that point. They're based on technical stuff (flags in the IFO/VOB files mainly). There's nothing wrong with an 'average' one. The % value shows how much will be put on each layer. Discs are most readable when equal amounts are written to both layers... so 50/50 may perform a little better than 70/30 etc. I'd be interested to see the burn + verify log from your most recent burn. Don't also forget you can run something like 'Opti Drive Control' (Google it) on that drive/disc and get a 'Disc Quality' graph of how well the burn went. (set it to scan at 4x) - maybe that's what you meant by 'test result' ? If so, post the screenshot of that too please. You've picked the layer break position via that window that pops up. The software translates it to a sector/lba address and then tells the drive to use it. No, you don't need OPC on. You can check the iHAS624 B/iHAS124 B drive tests (in the 'Drives' section of the forum) to see which speed produced the best quality burns on MKM-003-00 media (which I assume is what you're still using).

Please post the log of you reading the source disc and burning the new one.

Your drive must be about 400 years old and may not support SAO (session at once). Try changing the 'Write Type' in the settings to TAO and then attempt the burn again. Non MMC compliant drives are supported on a drive by drive basis... and that usually only happens if I happen to own said drive. Unfortunately, I don't own that one.

It should have saved the info as part of the normal log - which you can access via the 'Help' menu

Did you capture that log info before rebooting? It might help me figure out a workaround for the issue. It looked like the drive just got its knickers in a twist internally (a firmware thing) and that caused perfectly valid commands to fail. Rebooting the PC would have reset it.

Try and burn again (exactly as you have done there), but press F8 before you hit the big 'Write' button. Then save the contents of the log window to a file and upload it. When you've done that, try just rebooting (or powering down) - hopefully you've already tried that though.

Sorry, no. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=12200

The problem you're running into is now normal. Your current knowledge/level of understand is no longer up-to-date. Go and do your homework at an xbox related news site, this isn't an ImgBurn issue.

Yes but did it install and register itself correctly?

Those settings aren't anything to do with ImgBurn, they're LiteOn settings (internal to the drive). You can read about them at the LiteOn website (well, in a round-about way anyway) http://www.liteonit.eu/en/smartwrite/smartwrite.html Buy your discs online. They'll be cheaper and you'll be able to get the ones you actually need.

SmartBurn is on by default with LiteOn drives. It's never a good sign for something to fail with default settings! You should try with some decent (Verbatim) media. You're aware that SP3 is out for XP now (and has been for several years) yeah?

All CDs have a Disc ID like that. The Disc ID on a CD is just a copy of the 'Start Time of LeadIn' value (which comes from the ATIP area on the disc). Every manufacturer/type uses a different value and that's how you can tell them apart and figure which manufacturer made them - in your case, CMC Magnetics Corp.

Get some other discs / try cleaning the drive.

It'll be the button saying 'Repeat' on it or that has an arrow going round in a circle. Also, I have to assume you're just burning files in Build mode. That isn't going to create a disc that'll play on a traditional standalone CD player, it'll only work on an 'MP3 capable' CD player - and even that isn't guaranteed! The proper method of creating an Audio CD doesn't prompt to replace a file (track) that already exists in the compilation.

If you've successfully downloaded and installed the drivers from that link I send you, the next step would be to burn+verify a disc and then copy+paste everything from ImgBurn's Log window.

You need to try the drive in another PC that's known to work properly (or on a PCI card that supports optical drives - a Silicon Image 3512 chipset based card for example). It still looks like a driver issue to me. Drives don't really error out without returning a specific error code - so you'd never get 'No additional sense information available'. As such, I'd say the drivers are losing the error code or the error never really existed (from the drive anyway) in the first place. Whilst your BD-RE burn might look ok, it's probably missing data around the sectors where those errors were reported. You should verify the burn to check everything is where it should be.

This is the normal size of a DL disc. Yours is getting messed up due to the 'max' firmware you've got running on the drive. I don't think the modified firmware lets the program set the layer break position when burning outside of the 'normal' limits/capacity of a DVD+R DL disc. If the program says the image you're trying to burn is too big, it's too big. It doesn't make this stuff up Users normally make mistakes when looking at sizes of files etc due to the units being used... the program doesn't have that problem. Do not ignore the prompt to select a layer break position, just pick one of them - use the 'preview' option to see which offering works best.

If 2.5.6.0 is telling you to use Build mode, the discs you've got from previous versions probably aren't very good copies. It would have taken a disc with multiple tracks / sessions and just treated them as one thing. It was wrong to do that and that's why 2.5.6.0 doesn't do it. All you need to do is add the drive letter of your dvd drive (i.e. 'E:\') to the 'Source' box and then click the build button.

There isn't much you can do if your drive just won't burn them. Try all of the supported write speeds and perhaps cleaning the drive with a cleaning disc. Failing that, try with some Taiyo Yuden CDs... they're the best ones.

If your drive can't burn Verbatim discs, try cleaning it or get a new one. No drive should have trouble burning decent discs - which Verbatim are.

It's in the FAQ. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=59&view=findpost&p=969

Unfortunately, that's usually what it comes down to... buying and trying. If you're lucky, you can sometimes find someone else with your drive posting success with certain media - but your drive isn't very common.

It just seems your drive doesn't like/support the 'CMCMAG-DI6-000' media very well (or at all). Buy some other (better) discs that don't use that MID/dye.

Post the log please - as per the pink box up the top

Try the AHCI drivers from here. http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx