dbminter

I don't see an issue. You're saying you have 1 image and the contents written to more than 1 disc are not the same? Or do you have more than 1 image and one disc is written to one contents and another disc is written with other contents? The only way I can see this happening is if you have one disc that writes as an ISO file less than 4 GB and the other is split into multiple parts and you have a 2nd image from an MDS file. The log shows nothing but a successful burn. If you want to write more than 1 copy of the same image file, are you setting the Copies value in the Write window to 33, or how ever many copies you want to write?

As I said, I don't know what the shelf life of a CMC disc is IF it manages to burn and verify correctly and is readable by a player beyond the PC. I know that non Verbatim cheap DVD media can become unreadable after a few years. I had some Ritek Office Depot DVD+R DL's once. 5 of them as a test run. 3 of them were unreadable even on PC in under 5 years. Vanguard used to make DVD-R. I had one DVD Video that was completely unreadable after under 5 years as well. So, I can't see CMC's having a long shelf life given how low reliability they have simply for burning, verifying, and being recognized in a player. Once I learned that CMC was responsible for my faults with the Optodisc, I went over ALL of my existing DVD and CD media and copied and reburned all CMC discs to quality Verbatim DataLife Plus media. Those CMC were still readable but they weren't very old. I did come across some CMC CD's that managed to skip this process. They were a few years old at the time, but still readable. Media quality does not affect the quality of the audio on playback except for one case. A lower quality disc may have a lower reflectivity rate. This would mean that even though your player recognizes the disc is inserted, it may not play it back correctly. There may be hisses, skips, and pauses in playback. However, this is down to several factors including how well your burner burned that lower quality disc, the player you're going to put it in, and how well that player likes that particular manufacturer of disc. Bottom line is, when in doubt, don't use CMC. Use Verbatim DataLife Plus. I only use Verbatim DataLife Plus media, except for 8x DVD+RW, which the only option left was Ritek. And even though DataLife Plus does not make a BD-R, Verbatim's BD-R in the US is quality Verbatim, non CMC media. The same CANNOT be said of Verbatim's BD-RE SL, which IS CMC! But, their BD-RE DL is Verbatim quality media! Go figure!

I was wondering where that whole CMC label on TY discs came from. I saw those red and white CMC wrappers on stacks of discs and it was confusing me. Why would TY sully their good name by slapping CMC on their product? Now, it seems, CMC probably just bought up their name and slapped their good name on CMC's bad discs. First CMC swaps around the letters of MCC, a good manufacturer, to trick people and now this?

I live in the US so you can get what I recommend off of Amazon.com, mostly. TY doesn't make media anymore so whatever you find will probably be pretty old leftovers. TY made great CD-R but I got some TY labeled BD-RE SL that were CMC. And I wasn't aware TY made BD media to begin with, so I think they were fakes. What you want is Verbatim media but NOT the Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores like Office Depot. You want DataLife Plus media, which you can only find online. And Amazon.com has them. Last I checked, I got one of the last few remaining DataLife Plus CD-R cake stacks Amazon.com had. They still have the DataLife Plus DVD-R I've used for years, last I checked. As for DVD+-RW, I'd try Verbatim's DataLife Plus first, though I've never used them before. I only use Ritek's DVD+RW because Ritek was the only company making 8x DVD+RW. (They no longer do and they're no longer available anywhere on the web.) Ritek/Ricoh also made the 4x DVD-RW I've been using for over 10 years for Office Depot. Some of them are still going strong. But, Office Depot no longer has their own brand of DVD-RW that were made for them by Ritek. Amazon.com has some DataLife Plus rewritable DVD media. If you can't find the DataLife Plus CD-R or DVD rewritables on Amazon.com, try Verbatim's web store. They won't be as cheap as on Amazon.com, but it may be the only store that still sells them, given how so many markets are drying up for optical media and hardware. The primary reason to avoid CMC is they will fail to burn or fail to verify 50 percent of the time, rendering them relatively useless. I don't use them so I don't know about the longevity. I just know from my burn results that they're to be avoided at all costs. I had some CMC DVD+R that, when DVD Video was burned to them, no DVD player recognized them as playable discs. PC would play them, but nothing else. And, that was one of the death knells for me for CMC. My first exposure was when Optodisc switched from their own quality brand to CMC. Half of the discs wouldn't finish burning. Those that did, many were unreadable.

I can say that the 2209 and that enclosure do work fine on my Dell 8700 PC and didn't have the semaphore timeout error that can occur fairly commonly with some systems. As for the included Cyberlink Software, I didn't find much use in it. I think it had PowerDVD 10 and a version of PowerDirector, like version 5. I would only have used PowerDVD, but my ASUS drive came with a newer version of PowerDVD, so I installed that over the Pioneer's included utilities. The included software doesn't do any writing, as far as I know, but, I never used any of it beyond PowerDVD, which only plays back video discs.

As for there being no difference between an on the fly burn and burning from an ISO, I agree, as I always have, there's no difference to ImgBurn between the two. But, results from another user and initially myself showed there was a difference in execution. On LG drives, burning ISO's to DL BD media would almost always fail Verify. But, burning on the fly would work. And my initial tests showed it worked. It also worked if something other than ImgBurn burned the ISO. This was short lived though as actual real world execution proved the written contents weren't written correctly. So, it just reinforced my results that LG's are bad BD DL burners. Your luck could be down to it being a slim drive. Slim drives really can't be trusted. I wouldn't be satisfied until I tested a BD XL in my Pioneer 2209. I still think they support M-Disc even though they no longer advertise it. But, without being able to get my hands on a disc and testing it, I can't be sure. However, you could always get one and an external enclosure and return them if it doesn't. In fact, I found this: https://www.amazon.com/BDR-2209-Internal-Accessories-Supports-Interface/dp/B00OD9X6GO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519315477&sr=8-1&keywords=bd+2209 I was going to check the questions section for the drive on Amazon.com and ask if it supported them still if no one else had. Turned out, I found that listing which includes an M-Disc with the drive and its production description lists M-Disc. In fact, Amazon said I bought this drive in 2016. However, it was also the one I returned because it didn't burn BD-R correctly out of the box. That was probably a fluke as the next 2209 I got in January has been working fine. As has been said, single layer discs have a better chance of writing correctly. When you go beyond 1 layer, you drastically increase the reasons for failure. If you experience problems burning to SL discs, then I'd say the problem is it's a slim drive. I only ever write to BD-RE DL's as giant floppies and for my monthly system backups to temporary discs and then only in my Pioneer or ASUS, not the LG. And the monthly backups only go to those because they're just over a BD-RE SL size, ranging between 26 and 32 GB.

LUK: Ah, I should have realized the Cycle part. Cycle means an eject and close, as you said. Eject just ejects the tray after a Write operation but doesn't reload the tray. So, you're saying you had Cycle Tray Before Verify checked and you still had to manually reload the disc before Verify? Which makes sense since a slot drive doesn't have a tray. And I think slot drives only load when a disc is inserted, e.g. it "detects" the drive is being inserted over some mechanical loaders and automatically activates. Which would require the user manually reinsert the disc. It seems that there are no automatic load commands for slot drives. As I thought from a post I made a while back in another thread questioning Pioneer's latest slim external vertical oriented BD drive. I don't like having to do that because if I leave a BD burn operation going that takes a long time, it will be waiting for me to insert the disc before the Verify. Which means I have to baby sit the burn. And if it's a BD-RE DL that is nearly being fully written, it will sit there waiting for me to insert the disc after 90 minutes of the write. So, naturally, I'd hate to sit there for 90 minutes, and I'd have to go away and do something else. Once the write is done, it would be waiting for me the whole time to load the disc for Verify. But, that is, sadly, the nature of the beast as more and more drives, IF they're still being made, are going the way of slim, slot driven mechanisms.

Why are there two different options? One for Cycle Tray Before Verify and one for Eject Tray After Write? Does that 2nd option only apply if you have the Cycle Tray Before Option unchecked? Meaning the tray will be ejected after a Write and all writes, even if there is no Verify?

There's an easy way to check and it won't take much time if you have easy access to a CD-RW, DVD+-RW, or a BD-RE S/D/TL. Just create a really small image file, say a few hundred MB, enough to fit on a CD-RW. Then, burn that image to a rewritable disc in the Pioneer slim and see if the drive ejects the disc after burn and if ImgBurn waits for you to reload the disc. If your image is really small, it should only take a few minutes to do all of this.

Under Settings, check the Device tab and there under Options, there are a few Eject Tray After options. Verify would be checked if that is set. Since the setting says Tray specifically in its name, it makes sense it wouldn't apply to slot drives. That's good to know. News I wasn't aware of before. Thanks!

It was probably the LG's fault. For burning multiple layer BD media, well, it just doesn't work. 9 times out of 10, they burn them wrong. Even the on the fly "fix" that someone reported and I tested seemed to work at first but eventually revealed its true colors in that it doesn't properly burn to BD-RE DL media. My Pioneers have always burned them correctly. It also seems that Pioneer is one of the few companies that makes a decent quality slim drive, too? Say, maybe you can answer a question I have about slot drives like your BDR-XS06. Do you have ImgBurn's options set to automatically eject and reload media before an automatic Verify after burn? If you do, does a slot drive eject and reload the disc? I've always wondered if a drive that isn't a tray loader can do that. Thanks!

Thanks!

For over 24 hours, the View New Content option on this forum hasn't been working. It returns a database error. Actually, it returns 2 things. The header at the top of the page says forum.imgburn.com Driver Error Then, it says "There appears to be an error with the database. If you are seeing this page, it means there was a problem communicating with our database. Sometimes this error is temporary and will go away when you refresh the page. Sometimes the error will need to be fixed by an administrator before the site will become accessible again. You can try to refresh the page by clicking here ← Return to the index" But nothing really helpful, of course! It does say that the administrator may need to be contacted. So, I'm posting it here. New posts on the forum are apparently working and the forum front end loads. So, it's just something with View New Content that isn't working. Thanks!

If you have the check box for Delete Image in the Write dialog enabled and the image fails to burn for whatever reason or you cancel the Write, does the image file still get deleted? Or is it only deleted after a successful burn? Thanks!

After trying it with Auto turned off, I'm actually doing more work than I'd be doing by just clicking OK in the 2nd layer break dialog. Because without Auto calculate, I have to manually set the Options for a DVD Video job. ImgBurn will do this before building an image, but it won't let me change the ISO label field without cancelling the build and manually going in and changing it afterwards. ImgBurn will set default labels for the ISO and UDF fields, but it rarely sets them to what I want. So, I'll just stick with Auto calculate. I'm doing less work by going into the layer break options twice versus turning off Auto calculate.

It's National Brotherhood Week! Or it used to be. Here's a song by Tom Lehrer satirizing that we even need such a silly thing. That we are too stupid to just make every day it and be nice to each other all year around. One week of every year is designated National Brotherhood Week. This is just one of many such weeks honoring various worthy causes. One of my favorites is National Make-Fun-Of-The-Handicapped Week, Which Frank Fontaine and Jerry Lewis are in charge of as you know. During National Brotherhood Week various special events are arranged to drive home the message of brotherhood. This year, for example, on the first day of the week Malcolm X was killed which gives you an idea of how effective the whole thing is. I'm sure we all agree that we ought to love one another and I know there are people in the world that do not love their fellow human beings and I hate people like that. Here's a song about National Brotherhood Week. Oh, the white folks hate the black folks, And the black folks hate the white folks. To hate all but the right folks Is an old established rule. But during National Brotherhood Week, National Brotherhood Week, Lena Horne and Sheriff Clarke are dancing cheek to cheek. It's fun to eulogize The people you despise, As long as you don't let 'em in your school. Oh, the poor folks hate the rich folks, And the rich folks hate the poor folks. All of my folks hate all of your folks, It's American as apple pie. But during National Brotherhood Week, National Brotherhood Week, New Yorkers love the Puerto Ricans 'cause it's very chic. Step up and shake the hand Of someone you can't stand. You can tolerate him if you try. Oh, the Protestants hate the Catholics, And the Catholics hate the Protestants, And the Hindus hate the Muslims, And everybody hates the Jews. But during National Brotherhood Week, National Brotherhood Week, It's national everyone-smile-at-one-another-hood week. Be nice to people who Are inferior to you. It's only for a week, so have no fear. Be grateful that it doesn't last all year!

Looks like it's been taken care of. Funny thing is, Waterfox doesn't apparently use Google's "deceptive sites" list as WF never had a problem loading this page when Firefox did.

Actually, now that I think about it more closely, I can probably do without Auto calculate. In the Advanced build interface, the bottom of the window tells you the size the image will be, the media it fits on, and how much space is left on that particular media type. I generally pay more attention to that than the Calculate window's information. And if I ever need that info, I can always manually press the Calculate button in the few cases where I might need it.

Hm, I don't think turning off Auto Calculate would do me any good. I disabled it, but discovered I'd have to manually press Calculate each time I create something to make sure it doesn't exceed type size limit. It's just as "time consuming" as having to do 2 layer break calculations. I'm not saving much time either way. I think it's "more convenient" to have my jobs auto calculated and have to double up on the layer break positions versus pressing Calculate every time.

This is why I ask such things. Thanks!

When creating a DVD-9 DVD Video where the VIDEO_TS contents span across both layers, when you exit Advanced edit mode, ImgBurn asks you to set a layer break position. Then, when you go to actually build the image, ImgBurn asks, again, where you want to set the layer break position. Can this 2nd setting of the layer break position be turned off? If no, should the code behavior be altered so you're not asked twice for the layer break position? If you already know where you want to set it when first asked, it just takes extra time that you won't need to close off the dialog again. I never require changing the layer break position after I set it the first time. Thanks!

Ah, in this case, it was probably iTunes trying to read it at the same time. I had iTunes open, too, and it was loading the disc in as well on insert.

Firefox is returning this web site, via a Google recommendation, is a deceptive phishing web site. I sent a report to Google saying the site was okay, but, who knows how far that will go anywhere?

Sometimes in Read mode of CD's, I get long pauses at the Getting Media Status part. It can take up to a minute, sometimes. Is this based on the number of Tracks on a CD? I've tended to notice this happens more often on CD's with the maximum number of tracks, 99. However, some 99 track CD's in the same boxed set wouldn't do this. So, I don't know why it may happen sometimes and sometimes not. Thanks!

Yeah, I was thinking, but couldn't verify, that there was an MD5 file option available somewhere. I remember I used to get them because I had it enabled but I never used them. MDS I could, but I generally don't do anything with hashes so it wasn't something I'd think I'd ever use.