dbminter

I didn't use a root kit. It was pre-installed without my knowledge on the PC. I don't remember what root kit it was that was removed. I THINK what I used to scan for root kits and remove it was Rootkit Revealer, but that was almost 7 years ago. So, I can't be sure. If you're experiencing this message, it could be the fault of a root kit. It was in my case. However, LUK says you can also get this trying to read CSS encrypted discs. Although I would think ImgBurn wouldn't return such a message in that case since it can't read encrypted discs. If you need a root kit remover, just do a Google for root kit remover. There are plenty of options available. I looked up Rootkit Revealer, but it hasn't been updated in 10 years, so it may not be right for you. However, even at 5 years old, it solved my problem.

Mine was the result of a root kit. I had just installed ImgBurn on a new PC I was setting up in 2011 and got that message. I had just started the application, nothing inserted in the drive, and ImgBurn couldn't detect any drives because the maximum number of secrets had been reached. So, I posted about it and you recommended I do a scan for root kits, which I had one pre-installed with the PC. After removing it, ImgBurn detected drives fine. Microsoft's definition of a secret is "A secret is an encrypted piece of information, such as a password or user name." It says if you receive that error message to contact the supplier of the application returning it. So, there is no real general definition of a secret. Secrets vary depending on the application. A little further digging says the reason there is a finite cap on secrets is something imposed by the US government. It's a standard Windows error message. However, why this message would pop up on systems outside of America would be beyond me. So, I'm inclined to slightly doubt the statement they're imposed by the US government as a possible conspiracy theory.

About the message that sometimes comes up, something like Maximum number of secrets has been reached. I've gotten it before, but what exactly does it mean? What is a "secret?" Why does Windows allow them and why are there only a finite number of them allowed?

Yes, that sound like a wraparound. In fact, if you click the first mirror, like the OP apparently did, you get a page with a Download button that says Download Manager Enabled. Try the last mirror, the "official" ImgBurn download mirror, and compare hash info. The file it distributes is SetupImgBurn_2.5.8.0.exe.

Yes, from that link, the FLAC link for installing madFlac. It's a series of files installed by a .BAT batch file. Takes less than a half minute to set up.

I can verify the steps for installing the FLAC encoder work. After LUK told me where they were.

Yeah, in other words, the author of the software, LUK, will have to address that as I have no knowledge of the hashes. Sorry.

LUK fielded another post similar to that about mismatching hashes. He said they actually were matching. I never do hash comparisons so it's beyond my expertise to comment any further.

It seems to be a false positive with NS then.

Where are you downloading it from? Try one of the mirrors here: http://imgburn.com/index.php?act=download They all can't be corrupt. If NS still flags each one from all 7 mirrors, it's probably a false positive. It's not like Norton AV has NEVER had a false positive. I know that from experience.

Probably, Norton is flagging it as a PUP (Potentially Unwanted Program) vector.

I failed to even look at the log! Perform a manual Verify on one of these discs. See if that read operation finishes okay. IF you still have the image file you created for burning, if you created one, Verify against the contents of that file. I can't tell if you had an image file or not. I didn't see a line in the log listing one, so it may have been an on the fly build. I know I remove the log entries for my file names before posting logs because I'm paranoid.

Yeah, if your Pioneer plays them back fine, then you can pretty much rule out your burner as being the problem. However, PC drives are more forgiving than a stand alone player. So, the Pioneer could still be burning them incorrectly and your burner is just correcting the errors better on playback. I would doubt that, though. You'd know more for sure by trying someone else's player or another stand alone player if you have one. Of course, you can't rule out that another player just doesn't like BD-R or that particular MID/DID. I'd be more inclined to blame the stand alone player. Stand alone players are generally more often the cause of problems in a case like this, given then evidence, I'd say.

If you've used these discs with this drive and your preferred Blu-Ray player fine for a while now, then the problem is a hardware one, most likely. Either the burner needs replacing or your Blu-Ray player has ceased to function properly. Have you tried these discs in a different Blu-Ray player? That would help isolate if it's the player or the burner that's the problem. Now, it could also be a case of MediaRange changing the type of discs you used to get. Did you just recently start burning from a new batch of discs you bought? Or are these from the same "stack" you had been burning from successfully before? However, since you said this also happens with Verbatim's BD-R DL, you can pretty much rule out it's a disc problem. It would either be a problem with the burner or the player. Since you say this happens at about an hour into the movie, could these freezes be happening at the layer change? If they are, then it's most likely either the player has stopped properly switching layers or your Pioneer is no longer properly writing between the layers. Barring anything else, there could be some kind of weird Windows error causing bad burns. Unlikely, but you can't put it past Windows bugging up.

Barring all other options failing, maybe attaching an external USB CD/DVD/BD writer and Todo will recognize it as a source to create a bootable disc to?

I don't think any external Pioneer opens with a tray. So, no. LG does make external, full height tray USB BD burners that support BDXL and M-Disc, I believe. The one drive you linked, I don't see it says M-Disc on it. Nothing in the description says that. I didn't check Pioneer's web site to see if to does support M-Disc. Just going by that Amazon.com page.

Yeah, I kind of had a bit of a brain and forgot you were looking for M-Disc. Since I don't particularly care for M-Disc, it wasn't my concern when discussing what USB Pioneer I'd try. Hm, you're right. The 209 never had an M-Disc label on it but it did support M-Disc. However, M-Disc support is no longer listed on the product's web page on Pioneer's web site IF it ever did list it. So, maybe Pioneer removed that function because people weren't using it? However, this link to the same model comes with a free M-Disc: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0Y6-000U-00055 As you can see from Newegg's page, there is no M-Disc label on that drive either, yet it seems to support M-Disc. I really couldn't tell you. The 209 drive DID support it. I've burned about 5 of them before with it. However, in the past, past models I got came with a free M-Disc and the last one I got did NOT. So, does that mean the drive no longer supports M-Disc? I couldn't say. You'd have to try it out for yourself. As for enclosures, this is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRUN0HQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has a combination cable where the power and SATA connections are bundled together so there aren't 2 separate cables. The enclosure then connects to the PC by USB 3.0 because USB 2.0 can't support the throughput necessary for Blu-Ray. Now, there is something you should know about external drives, including enclosures. You may encounter what is called a semaphore timeout error when trying to write to it. This is an error caused by the internal SATA to USB bridge and a conflict on your motherboard's controller. The only fixes, generally, are to replace your external drive/enclosure or your mobo. Replacing your external drive/enclosure is, of course, cheaper and easier than replacing a mobo. And, if you're going to replace your mobo, it's generally cheaper and easier to replace your entire PC. And there's no guarantee the next enclosure/drive/mobo won't have the same problem. The only way to know for sure is to try one out. However, on my Dell XPS 8700 PC, there is no semaphore time out error with that enclosure I linked.

Of course, not all slim drives are junk. And, IMO Pioneer is the best BD option out there for full height drives. I admit, I've wanted to try a different slim Pioneer, but I won't try it until my ASUS USB plays out. The down side to that Pioneer USB I want to try is there doesn't appear to be a tray. It appears to be a slot drive. So, you may have to manually reinsert discs for Verifies after burns if automatic Verifies are performed. I don't know if slot drives can automatically "reload" media or not. I am kind of anxious to see if that Pioneer USB drive is any good. The Pioneer BD209M has many names. Sometimes it just goes by 209, sometimes 2209, sometimes 209M, sometimes BD209M. Here's the link I ordered from: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GD792US/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Notice it goes by yet another alternate name? Pioneer is pretty much all I recommend. The only reason I have an ASUS is because I like to have an external model on hand to test with, in case my internal drives goes wonky for whatever reason. The only reason I have an LG is a long story, as I said, but the thumbnail version is Pioneer borked the 1.34 firmware for their drives so they don't properly write to Ritek 8x DVD+RW anymore. And the Pioneer doesn't read or write Ritek 6x DVD-RW. The LG will properly read and write to those media. The ASUS will write to 8x DVD+RW but not to 6x Ritek DVD-RW. And Ritek was the only remaining manufacturer of 8x DVD+RW. Now, you can't find any anywhere on the Internet. I have about 75 I found from one last seller on Amazon.com, so I bought them all up. And 6x DVD-RW was discontinued years ago, with Ritek being the last remaining seller. Since the XPS 8390 comes with a default DVD writer, there's no telling what they might swap in in its place for a BD writer. IF I had to hazard a guess, I'd say Dell would use this LG model: http://www.lg.com/us/burners-drives/lg-BU20N-internal-blu-ray-dvd-drive It's a slim, internal BD writer that supports BDXL and M-Disc. So, you'd most likely end up with an LG slim drive. Being BOTH a slim drive and an LG aren't good selling points for me. And I think it's the ONLY such model you will find that fits your criteria. If I were going to get a BD burner for the latest Dell models, I'd get a Pioneer 209 and put it in an external closure, like I recommended before. Other than that, I'd be willing to try that Pioneer slim model USB I mentioned and give it a test. I could always return it if I wasn't satisfied. That USB Pioneer you mentioned is a top loader. Top loaders are probably even worse choices for external models. Though I've never used one such BD drive, top loading Playstations were always the models that had the most disc problems, IMO. I wouldn't try one, but maybe Pioneer makes a better type? Who knows? This is the USB one I'd try: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Computer/Computer+Drives/BDR-XU03 Mostly because it has a stand that will put the drive vertically, and that's what I needed from the ASUS USB I got. It was vertically mounted. This is the model that, apparently, replaced Pioneer's BDR-XD05B, as that model is no longer listed on their web site: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Computer/Computer+Drives/BDR-XS06 Pioneer also makes a newer model that replaces the 209: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Computer/Computer+Drives/BDR-211UBK But, it doesn't support M-Disc, it seems. I would toy with trying it to see if they fixed the borked firmware, but the extra cost is mostly because it's a newer model and supports Ultra HD Blu-Ray, which I don't need. It does support the BDXL you're looking for. I'd still recommend the 209 because I've been using it for like 5 years and have had 5 of them. Two of them have lasted for 2 years or more. My first one still works, except for the eject button issue which I had with 2 of them. I only just recently had to replace my 209 that I mostly used as a reader, after 2 years. Also, LG drives are pretty bad readers, but I did have one case where the Pioneer wouldn't read a disc that the LG would. Go figure.

The other Dell poster's slim and full height drives were DVD burners. So, they weren't M-Disc capable. My results are generally not hit or miss. I thoroughly run tests before saying X. However, you can get random failures that just happen. Usually, though, these failures are the fault of a random disc that just happened to be bad. For instance, the other day, I had a rare failure on a Verbatim BD-R SL. They rarely fail, like 1 in a thousand failures. The cause was there was a crack in disc that apparently came out of the factory that way. Again, one of those one in a thousand failures. The way I test, I perform a test with 3 media in a row before declaring a problem. However, with your XL discs costing $20 a pop, my method is not cheap. But, I generally can't say a problem is repeatable and therefore there without running the 3 media test. Last night, had a failed DVD+R DL in my LG BD burner. Before declaring there was a problem, I tried burning it again and it succeeded on that 2nd try. Now, if I get 2 more failures pretty soon after each other, I'll declare the LG needs replacing. (LONG story as to why I still use an LG drive even though I don't recommend them.) Unfortunately, that ASUS drive you mention is junk. I had two of them, just in case the first one I got was a fluke and was bad. It did the same thing on both models, one of which went back to Amazon.com. I'd have sent the other one back but I had already sent in the UPC code from the box for a rebate, so I couldn't. I just threw the drive away. That model doesn't seem to write rewritable discs correctly. I first gave it a Ritek 8x DVD+RW. It wrote to it but completely destroyed the disc, even though it was new. It couldn't be reformatted for salvaging because the disc was not even recognized in any drive as a disc to format. Then I gave it a Memorex Ritek BD-RE SL formatted as a giant floppy. It wrote files to it, but, once again, it rendered the disc unreadable afterwards and could not be salvaged. Then I gave it a Verbatim Mitsubishi BD-RE DL and wrote an ISO to it that spanned the 2 layers. Same story! Wrote to the disc but rendered it destroyed. Since it did these same tests with the same results on 2 different copies of that ASUS drive, the problem is with the drive. It's borked. Firmware updates may fix this, but I don't think there are any firmware updates to it currently available. So, I cannot recommend the BW-16D1HT. Though I've never burned a BDXL disc before, your results with the drive seem to bear out my testing experiences with the drive. Which is a shame. I had such high hopes for ASUS as my new go to drive after the ASUS USB drive I had, the previous model to the current borky one, passed every single media test I threw at it, save for 2 which hardly any drives other than LG and LiteOn supported. I had thought ASUS might be my new go to model for internal full height BD. But, that goes to Pioneer BD209M now. Now, I think Pioneer makes an external BD burner that supports XL and M-Disc, but it is a slot model drive. And I don't think the firmware has been updated in 3 years on it. So, I'd just recommend, if you're going to go external, sticking with my first suggestion of a Pioneer BD209M and putting it in an external enclosure.

And LG's aren't really an option for BD-R/RE DL media. The one I have doesn't and others have reported issues, too, with burning ISO's in ImgBurn on LG BD burners. On the fly writing, though, does seem to work. Go figure. So, since there seems to be an issue with LG's on DL BD media, I can't see it being problem free with XL media, too. Another reason I pushed the Pioneer 209. It supports BDXL, though I've never actually burned one on it so I can't say how well it does it. And it supports M-Disc, which I have burned before in it fine. And it writes BD-RE DL fine. Never tried BD-R DL but someone else I was helping with a similar problem with the LG had no problems with BD-R DL when swapping the LG out for the Pioneer.

I would recommend NO slim drives at all. Slim drives are junk. Just had a recent poster who had an issue with a slim drive in a Dell failing to Verify that a full height drive in a different Dell did Verify. I would suggest buying a full height Pioneer BD209M, putting it in an enclosure, and using it as an external burner. I absolutely hated the fact Dell removed full height drive bays from the XPS line. Absolute deal killer for me. Not only can't you put in a good drive, but you really can't use the drive included with the system! I would have moved on from my XPS 8700 if it weren't for that fact. Now, I'm going to keep my Dell until I absolutely have to move on to a new Dell and just place one of my internal full height drives in an enclosure. If you really want a slim drive, though, I honestly can't recommend one. Slim drives have been nothing but problems as far as I've seen from posters on this board. So, I can't help you there, sorry.

Just be really careful with what you edit with IFOEdit. IFOEdit gives you, pretty much, literal god mode over how a DVD can function.

If you mean can you set a region code on a recordable disc, like DVD+/-R or DVD+/-R DL, I don't believe so. I believe, but I'm not sure, that region codes are hard coded onto pressed DVD's. If you mean set the region code on a drive, then ImgBurn has that somewhere. I think it's available when you right click a drive in the drop down list of available drives in Write mode.

You released it. It's just, as I said in that other thread, I wasn't aware it was there.

Well, I admit I Googled those options, but Pioneer's web site is such broken English I wasn't able to determine what it exactly did. So, I searched some other results just now. Finally found one that was good at explaining PureRead about 3 or 4 pages in. Seem PureRead is a function of audio CD's only. When enabled, if a rip of an audio cannot be performed normally, extra reading is done on the bad sectors/scratches and apporiximation data is added to the resulting MP3 so ripping doesn't fail. The quiet stuff is as I had thought just as you thought. It spins the drive slower so it doesn't make as much noise. This, of course, results in slower reads. And, I guess disabling it would put more wear and tear on a drive so it would wear out sooner. However, I'd rather have a faster read than a quiet one. As for a beta, there is a 2.5.8.1 but I was never aware it was there! It's been there since 8/17/2016, but never announced on the forum for the beta users. I stopped checking the folder for beta releases, just waiting for new posts in the Beta forum. Guess now I should check the folder from now on.