dbminter

The probable reason you're getting some successes and some failure is that lower quality media is very iffy. Even the bottom of the barrel CMC will work sometimes 50 percent of the time. You say they're Verbatim, but they're actually Moser Baer India. While in other parts of the world quality Verbatim may be Moser Baer, I'm not familiar with them. There is varying quality of Verbatim media since Verbatim farms out some of their CD production to CMC. In North America, Verbatim CD-R in brick and mortar stores will be the low quality CMC Life series. What you want from CD-R from Verbatim is DataLife Plus. NOT Life series. DataLife Plus. You can only find those in North America on online stores, so it's probably the same in other parts of the world. BTW, you do realize you can't just copy Playstation game CD's and expect them to work in a regular Playstation, right? Otherwise, you're wasting your time burning CD-R for playing purposes.

Ritek, especially Ritek in non North American territories like the UK, are apparently poor quality media. I've had little problem with them, except for DVD+R DL. But, only Verbatim MKM DVD+R DL are any good. Over half of the Ritek ones I tested weren't readable after a few years. Ritek DVD-R I've had little problem with except for the Playstation 3. It plays them back with skips. Ricoh/Ridata, and it's apparently Ricoh, Ridata, and Ritek are all the same thing, have been a little bit better. They're the only ones who make 8x DVD+RW that aren't crap CMC's. However, Ridata 8x DVD+RW's only have about a 20 write life span before they die. I'd also see if you have better luck with actual MKM Verbatim media. However, not all Verbatim is created equal. Their Life series (NOT DataLife Plus.) is cheap CMC junk.

Yeah, my thinking was the media manufacturer, too. I also would have pinned it down to a fluke. You get some discs that burn sometimes with iffy media and sometimes they don't burn. I would say you just happened to get a burn that worked when you converted the files. The type of files in the image would have no bearing on whether a burn would fail or not.

As long as you don't put those files in the folder on the Blu-Ray movie that stores the movie, I forget what it's called, it should be fine. Whatever folder contains the most file size will be the folder you want to avoid. I put files and folders in the root directory of DVD Video discs all the time. Things like cover art and a folder structure that tells me the title of the DVD for easy access. Standalone Blu-Ray players, of course, are dependent on the manufacturer so you could get a picky one that might complain. It shouldn't, but that doesn't mean it won't. If you've got a BD-RE DL that you know your player will play, you can always test to that first.

Also, ImgBurn won't read in protected movie discs without some kind of decrypting layer like AnyDVD present. Well, it may read them, but you won't be able to get any useful information out of it. Sort of like how you can copy a CSS protected VIDEO_TS to your hard disk in Windows/File Explorer, but the contents won't be usable.

To check on LUK's possibility, try inserting one of these DVD+R's that don't play properly in a PC drive and open ImgBurn in Read mode. Try reading this disc to an image file. If it reads without error, then the problem is probably either in the player or the software that created the DVD to begin with. If there are read errors, then the disc itself is unreadable or the drive you inserted it in doesn't like those CMC discs. It is possible, but don't ask me HOW, that a disc can pass Write, pass Verify, but be unreadable. I just had one such disc earlier in the week. I burned a disc to a DVD+RW that passed Write and Verify, but the Playstation 3 would not recognize it was inserted. Inserting it in a PC drive just caused the drive's light to flash infinitely trying to read it. So, the disc was actually unreadable. I still can't fathom how a disc can pass Write, pass Verify, but be unreadable.

I can but try.

If you want to check that the ISO is fine, you can install Virtual CloneDrive, mount the ISO, and then play its contents in your preferred DVD software player. However, be aware that computers are more forgiving than a stand alone DVD player. So, what may play on your PC may not play in a stand alone DVD player. However, since you say some discs play and some don't, you can probably rule out the ISO files. That seems more indicative of the CMC discs. I had several cake stacks of Optodisc DVD-R before I learned about CMC. They were stacks of 200 discs. About half would burn, verify, and play. Half wouldn't complete a burn. That just goes to show the varying quality of CMC within the same cake stack.

The wrapper will not tell you the Disc ID, which is the actual manufacturer who made it. Companies don't want you to know this information because if you knew, you might not buy their cheap media masquerading as something else. The only way to tell the actual manufacturer is to put a disc in a drive, open ImgBurn in Write or Read mode, and check for the Disc ID/Manufacturer field in the right pane of information. Oh, man, the issues with CMC media... There are longevity issues with them. Sometimes they last for a while. Sometimes they're unreadable after a year. There's reflectivity issues with them, which causes playback problems with DVD players. They may be unable to recognize a CMC disc has been inserted. CMC Lightscribe DVD+R would not be recognized in the DVD player my mother had. The primary issue with CMC media is their general low quality, which causes them to fail to finish burning or fail to pass Verify. Most of the problems on this board are caused by cheap CMC media. Most people find their problems miraculously disappear when they stop using CMC discs. It's not always the case, of course, but it is the case in the majority of issues.

The first debugging step I'd take is to stop using the cheap CMC Magnetics discs. I 08:29:20 Destination Media Type: DVD+R (Disc ID: CMC MAG-M01-00) CMC Magnetics is the worst manufacturer of optical discs out there. Half the time they fail to burn. Half of those fail to Verify. And half of those that do pass both steps fail to play in DVD players. Try Verbatim DataLife Plus discs you can only find online. Do NOT get Verbatim Life series DVD's from brick and mortar stores. They will be CMC's. As for posting a Notepad version of the log, GET OUT! Just kidding. I prefer the ability to see the log as text, anyway, versus an image posted or attached to a post. So, I'd guess others might prefer it that way, too.

If you want to edit an ISO directly, try UltraISO. It's what I use. However, it's not free.

Yeah, if a double layer media is going to fail, it will generally fail somewhere around the layer change as happened here. Try VERBATIM Disc ID media. Your drive, probably, just doesn't like RITEK media. Besides, even if it burned correctly, you might have had playback issues with RITEK BD-R in Blu-Ray players. I know the Playstation 3 doesn't like to play them properly.

All the signs were pointing to the enclosure as being the most likely culprit. Traxdata, yeah, isn't exactly high quality media. So, crapping out on that isn't a surprise. Especially since it worked on a Verbatim, which as long as it's not BD-RE, should be high quality media. Verbatim does farm out to crap company CMC Magnetics for its BD-RE SL.

LUK, I don't know if you remember a few years ago, I posted something about how dragging and dropping a list of multiple files into a job sometimes only adds the first file. I have to manually drag and drop the list of files a 2nd time to add all the files. I couldn't reproduce the problem so it was never examined any further. However, I believe I have isolated the factors necessary to reproduce it. It happens when you drag and drop a list of files where you have multiple files of the same common text string at the start of their names BUT they're not ALL named the same thing. For instance, here's a sort of list of file names where it happens: Doctor Who 1 Doctor Who 2 Doctor Who 3 Doctor Who 4 Doctor Who 5 Doctor Who 6 Loose Cannon 1 Loose Cannon 2 Loose Cannon 3 Loose Cannon 4 If I drag and drop this list of files the first time, it only adds Doctor Who 1. If I drag and drop that same list a second time, it adds all the files. And it appears that dragging and dropping any files after this will always add the full list of files. It only happens when ImgBurn is initially opened and the first list of multiple files of this criteria is dragged and dropped into a job. Any future dragging and dropping will always add the full list of files. Close ImgBurn, reopen it, and the issue returns until you drag and drop the list the 2nd time. Then all future dragging and dropping will always add the full list of files. So, I don't know if this is something in ImgBurn or Microsoft's programming language interface that handles multiple file names lists of the criteria I designated.

Now, if ConvertXToHD works the same way that ConvertXToDVD does, I can definitely tell you how that works. It offers the options of creating a VIDEO_TS folder to hard disk you can burn with ImgBurn and the option to burn directly to the disc for you. I think there's even an option to save as an .ISO file that you can burn with ImgBurn later.

Yes, there is a free, crippled trial. The output has a watermark urging you to buy the software. So, it's relatively useless for doing anything other than trying it out. You can't really keep the discs it makes. At least, that's the way it used to be years ago. I'm guessing it is still that way. Why would they let you create perfect discs? You could always image your hard drive before installing the software, install it, and get a free trial. Then, just restore your image and repeat the process every time you wanted to make a DVD. So, I'm sure they still have it set up that way so you can't take advantage of that. You can at least give it a shot and see if you like what it does and if it does what you want. I'm guessing ConvertXToHD has the same trial setup as ConvertXToDVD. I've never used ConvertXToHD, so I can't say for sure.

Some sort of temporary file(s) is created before Power2Go burns to disc. Either a temporary folder or an image file. When it fails to burn and you close the application, these files are probably deleted. So, you'd probably want to wait before closing the application and look for a temporary folder named whatever Blu-Ray has on it. Insert a Blu-Ray movie into a drive and look at its folder structure. The folder with the largest contents will be the Blu-Ray contents and that folder name will be what you want to search for. Otherwise, Power2Go probably saves to an .ISO file that it tries to burn. I don't use the application so I can't say how it behaves. Only how it can possibly behave.

The only free DVD conversion software I tried, I forget what iwas called, wasn't a viable option. It said it was going to take about 3 hours to create what ConvertXToDVD created in 20 minutes. And that was for creating DVD's, not Blu-Ray. So, I don't know of any freeware options for creating Blu-Ray, sorry. If Power2Go doesn't burn your discs, maybe you can take its output folder, I forget what they're called for Blu-Rays (For DVD it's VIDEO_TS.), and import it into a job in ImgBurn. As long as Power2Go creates a playable folder, ImgBurn will set the necessary settings to make a playable Blu-Ray disc.

Yeah, ConvertXToHD was what I was going to recommend, too. I've used ConvertXToDVD for years for converting container files to DVD's. ImgBurn only burns what you feed it. So, something else has to create what you feed it first.

Never encountered that first error before. You were getting a common error of semaphore timeout period expired in some of those logs. That is because of a conflict between the USB bridge in the enclosure and the USB controller on your motherboard. Unfortunately, the only cure is to replace the USB bridge or replace the mobo controller, which generally means replacing the mobo, or replace the enclosure. However, what is odd is that you don't ALWAYS get a semaphore timeout issue. What does appear to be going on is you're getting no actual writing done. It craps out trying to write the first bits.

Since the last BD you burned was in November of 2015 and you've been using it primarily to read BD's since, it could be the drive has just worn out from reading. Reading isn't as stressful on a drive as writing, but it does put wear on a drive.

Had this drive worked before in the enclosure? Have you ever used it internally and it worked? How old is it? Usually when drives die, they will fail to write to one particular media but write fine to others. In the days of DVD writers, it usually failed to write to DL media but was fine on others when it died. In the BD writer era, it wasn't uncommon for BD to fail first and other media to write fine. The issue is most likely one of two things. Either your enclosure is the problem or the drive is the problem. Since you said, I think, you had someone bring their laptop and try the drive on that and it still failed, then you know the issue is not your PC or USB connections. So, that means it would be either the drive, enclosure, or media. However, you said you tried different brands of media, including Verbatim, which if it was VERBATIM Disc ID and it wasn't Low To High, you can rule out the media being the problem. I'd lean more towards the drive probably needing replacing. Hence why I asked it's age. Anywhere between 7 and 9 months of use is generally the life span of most optical drives. However, can't yet rule out the enclosure has developed a problem. Do you have any logs of failed burns you can post? LUK might be able to ferret out something from the various error codes.

Could be typical Sony junk. The first BD-RE I ever had was a Sony. It died before it's 5th rewrite. Had a few Sony BD-R from K-Mart. Over half of them would not complete writes.

Ah, that would explain it. Yes, don't use Low To High. They don't last as long as High To Low and have a higher failure rate of burning.

6 months old is not outside the realm of possibility for needing to be replaced. I had a cheap LiteOn, back when they made Blu-Ray burners, that died after 3 months. My last Pioneer died after 7. My general time frame is usually after 9 months a drive needs replacing.