dbminter

Yes, if you get the same results with another LG drive of the same model, you will know it's the drive. My conclusion is based on 5 LG's I've had, 3 of the latest model, and 2 others, and those 3 of the latest don't burn BD-RE DL right at all. Out of 5 burns, only 1 completed write and verify. Your discs shouldn't be the problem. The DID indicates they're the good kind of Verbatim BD media. However, you could always have a bad batch of discs, but I doubt it. No, I don't find it strange at all that all LG drives may be bad at writing BD DL media. If they don't do it right out of the research and development facility, then, they all will not do it right out of the factory. Take ASUS's latest BD burner. It's bad out of the factory, too. Destroys 8x DVD+RW and Verbatm BD-RE and BD-RE DL when it writes to them. It did this on 2 copies of the same drive I tried out, so it's a manufacturing defect. I don't think it's bad batch of drives since I had 3 of the LG's over the course of 3 years that all did the same. LG's are also terrible writers at writing BD-RE SL as giant floppies. They write at half the speed as the Pioneer does. Even writing BD-RE DL as giant floppies are no go on LG drives. They will write the files, but the files will be utterly useless on the disc. All will have had write errors and their contents will be corrupted. LG's are also terrible readers. Yet, oddly enough, I had a disc that my Pioneer wouldn't read but my LG would. Go figure. The only reason I still have an LG is because Pioneer borked the firmware for writing Ritek 8x DVD+RW discs. They will always fail verify and all drives writing afterwards will always fail verify until fully formatted in another drive. My LG is perfectly fine for writing all other kinds of media that I tested it with, Even BD-R SL and BD-RE SL. However, I absolutely always avoid BD-RE DL in it. It's not a reliable drive for writing BD-RE DL, so I can't see it writing BD-R DL well either.

Probably the fault of the LG drive. I've had about 5 models of different kinds of LG BD burners and they all failed to burn properly to Verbatim BD-RE DL. Constant errors on Verifying the second layer. So, while I've never used BD-R DL to burn in an LG drive, I've come to the conclusion that LG's are terrible writers when it comes to burning BD DL media. And while I've never burned a BD-R DL in my Pioneer drive, I would recommend trying a Pioneer drive for burning BD-R DL. They burn my Verbatim BD-RE DL fine, so I can't see why they wouldn't work fine on Verbatim BD-R DL. Also, have you burned any BD-R DL without playback problems before? Or are all your BD-R DL's burnt doing these playback problems? And notice how your Verify errors occur right at the exact start of the 2nd layer?

I can't either. It'll happen, though, unfortunately. I guess I'll have to switch to flash drives and USB HDD's for external storage when that time comes. I bought the last 3 cake stacks of 8x DVD+RW available on the Internet. So, I've got some to last for as long as they'll last.

You're right. I didn't take into account multiple layer discs. I was thinking entirely of CD-R/W, DVD-+R/W, and BD-R/E SL.

I have a question about how ImgBurn, or I guess reading in general, is done with recordable discs that have images written to them. Hypothetical: say you have a recordable disc, CD, DVD, BD, I don't think it matters. And you've written an image that takes up half of the available space on the media. The other remaining half is unburned dye/media. Let's say a deep scratch occurs in the unburned area that does not go into the recorded area. When ImgBurn/anything goes to read the disc to an image file, would this scratch prevent ImgBurn from reading the disc? Does ImgBurn only "scan" the burned area to determine what is burned on the disc and thus what to read? Thanks!

What does the 2048 number next to Mode 1 mean in the settings? It's a multiple of 1024, so it's a binary value, that much I know.

Yeah. I was wondering what was the point.

Got my wires crossed with that other thread where the poster had problems with BD-R DL media not playing on his player. I had forgotten he had resolved that by coming to the conclusion that his player was the problem. Anyway, SOME of what I said still applies. The next step is getting the player to recognize a DVD+R DL had been inserted. Then, testing it by playing to see if there any playback problems like skips, pauses, hisses, or pops.

Now might come another problem. The verification problem has been resolved by the higher quality Verbatim media, but your player may not particularly like DL BD media, regardless of the manufacturer. Or it may just be picky on Verbatims. It really is a sort of crap shoot of trial and error. For instance, I know my Playstation 3 will play BD movies written to Verbatim BD-RE DL, but I've never written a single BD-R DL before. And I know that the PS3 is picky about BD media. It will play Verbatim BD-R fine but will not properly play Memorex BD-R made by Ritek. Verbatim BD-RE, back when they made them and not CMC, also play fine in the PS3. What you'll want to look for first is that your Blu-Ray player even recognizes that you inserted a BD-R DL to play. If it finds it, that's the first hurdle overcome. Then, what you'll want to look for is playback of the BD-R DL. You'll want to look for skips, hisses, pauses, and pops in the audio/video. Especially if it stops playing and then "skips" ahead.

I've never owned an Xbox, so I couldn't say anything about it. Sorry.

My parents never had an 8-track player, so I never had a cassette. But, where my mother worked up until about 1985, the owner of the place played 8-track tapes over a speaker system in the store. So, I have seen the players and held some tapes. I had a PC where you stored programs I wrote in BASIC on audio cassettes. Back when programs consisted of the fabulous 10 PRINT "HELLO WORLD!" or the infamous 10 GOTO 20 20 GOTO 10 My first x86 PC was a 286 I got for high school work in 1992. It had a whopping 40 MB hard drive. 2600 baud modem. 5.25 and 3.5 inch floppy drives. Had one of the infamous Turbo buttons I snapped off putting the case back together after swapping in a 14.4 k modem. Luckily, the button was in the on Turbo position at the time. I think it ran MS DOS 4.x and Window 2.x. Did you know that even in today's modern PC BIOS, there is the basic interface for hooking up a cassette recorder for audio tape saved programs? For backwards compatibility. In case anyone ever would need to do something so archaic. Just like when you type. When you type on a PC keyboard, the BIOS converts your typing into punches for the system to read. Yes, just like on those old punch cards.

Ancient? I can still remember rethreading video tapes that have snapped. I'm also not too young to remember 8-track tapes.

There's no image. The link just opens the main imageshack page. Post the log. That's what we need. Under Help, choose ImgBurn Logs, open the log, find where there error is, and post the entire log of that burn that failed.

Hm, interesting. You'd think Mode 1 would have been only for CD's since CD's came first. Therefore, you'd think the first mode would be for CD's and thus Mode 1. Ya loin sumtin new every day.

Found this: http://www.cdrlabs.com/forums/mode-versus-mode-discs-t8075.html Seems the difference between the 2 modes is Mode1 has more error correction built in. It devotes more available disc space to error correction than Mode2. Mode2 will let you store more data on a disc than Mode1, but you sacrifice the extended error correction in Mode1. So, you probably do want Mode1 versus Mode2.

I use Mode1, UDF 2.60 for all of my data archives to Blu-Ray media formats. However, I don't know anything about Linux, so I don't know if UDF 2.60 is supported on it. I would think these options should make a disc readable on Windows 7. I've used these options for Windows 8.1 Update 1 and all flavors of Windows 10 that have been released without problems accessing the data on the discs later. I know this is forwards compatible with Windows 8.1 Update 1 and all versions of Windows as discs I've created on Windows 8 were readable on Windows 10. Your instance, though, is backwards compatibility, so I'm not certain on that. I don't know the difference between Mode1 and Mode2. If a file name is too long, ImgBurn should notify you before it starts creating the image after you press the "burn" button that it's too long. It will tell you the file name/folder structure and ask you if you want to continue.

Tools --> Settings --> General --> Page 1 --> Options --> Check the box next to Don't Show Status Bar Messages (*) Now, disabling the status bar messages might prevent some troubleshooting messages from appearing, right? Sometimes, like when ImgBurn just locks up, that the only "error" you'll get will be from the status bar messages.

Not all Verbatim are created equal. Verbatim Life series you find in brick and mortar stores and online will be CMC Magnetics. CMC is the bottom of the barrel optical disc manufacturer. Verbatim DataLifePlus MKM is the only really consistent quality DVD DL blank. (Although I've had good results with TDK's.) You can probably only find Verbatim DataLifePlus MKM media online. Like I can only get mine from Amazon.com. Most people using CMC DL media who switch to the quality Verbatim discs generally find their problems go away. It's not a be all, cure all, but it generally fixes the problem. And if this started all of a sudden out the clear blue when you had gotten good results on CMC before, that could just be the nature of the beast. You got lucky before.

Yes, CMC Magnetics media is, most likely, your problem. CMC is the bottom of the barrel optical disc manufacturer. It's not really magic that a good portion of all the problems we see here are caused by CMC and other cheap media. People's problems generally (Though not always.) tend to go away when they switch to good Verbatim media. And, for DVD+R DL media, Verbatim MKM is the only really reliable manufacturer. (Although I've had good results with TDK's brand.) To get the Verbatim MKM media, you'll have to look for DataLifePlus media online. It's generally not sold in brick and mortar stores. What you'll find in those stores and sometimes online is Verbatim Life series. Do NOT get that! Verbatim's Life series is, yes, sadly, CMC media. Yes, shame on Verbatim but they do farm out to cheap ass CMC, too, for some of their media.

Ah, now I think I see what this does. You enter in the Disc ID of a kind of media and you can tell ImgBurn to always use that write speed whenever ImgBurn detects that type of disc has been inserted. So, what I'd think you'd want to do is insert the type of blank media, and, in Write mode, check for the Disc/Manufacturer ID in the right pane of information and copy and paste that DID into the Disc ID field. Then select the highest write speed you want to be enabled for this media.

I would think the Disc ID should have nothing to do with the speed at which a burn writes. That's determined by the write strategy on the disc and the write strategy present in the firmware of your burner. Disc ID should just be a string looking for the manufacturer ID present on the writable disc. I'm currently writing a near full 25 GB 2x BD-RE, so my ImgBurn will be in use for more than 45 minutes. Thus, I can't go into the settings and take a look for you right now. Region 1 is the region for North American DVD's, yes. Blu-Ray uses letters, I think, for Regions now. The only settings I know about that would control how fast a burn goes are on the Write page when you burn a disc. Where you can set MAX or a lower allowed rate allowed by the media and the drive. As for an exact amount of MB to write at, I don't know how to do that. And, even if you change the write speed, sometimes the drive will just overwrite the user setting.

You know? The weird thing is, it happens. Settings get changed that we didn't change. There's really no rhyme or reason behind it. Except the general culprit is Windows changed it for you without your desire to change it.

Yeah, they appear to have already been written to but were not completely written correctly. The incomplete sessions status is rather odd for a stack of new discs. You might want to try some other DVD-R and see if it's your drive always returning this same information on all DVD-R.

Yeah, the DID of MBIPG101-R05-01 seems to indicate these are made by Moser Baer. I know little about them, but a Google of this info seems to indicate they're an Indian based company. Since I've rarely heard of them before, they're probably not quality discs. Try Verbatim MKM/MCC media. Do NOT get the Life Series media, which you'll find in brick and mortar stores and sometimes online. You'll want the DataLifePlus variety, which you can only find online. Like where I get my Verbatim DataLifePlus media from: Amazon.com.

You're welcome! Wish I could have been of better help.