dbminter

I don't understand. You said you're not burning images, just single files, but ImgBurn only burns images. It doesn't write single files to discs. Unless you mean you're using some other software to do that while trying to troubleshoot the issue. You can set a setting to Verify against the image file contents. Otherwise, you're just basically performing a Read operation with a manual Verify. BTW, have you tried using ImgBurn to Read a non protected disc and see if it completes? If you can't get a Verify to complete, a Read should, in theory, not complete either. However, if you can complete a Read but not a Verify, that might narrow down a problem somewhere. Have you tried reading something other than a DVD Video and see if copying the contents in File Explorer is also super slow there? Because I would think Riplock should only affect trying to read a disc with a VIDEO_TS folder on it. I can't imagine Riplock kicking in for anything else because it would be a deal killer for people who knew Riplock was on a drive and it was detrimental to reading data off of a disc that wasn't a DVD Video disc. This might be your problem: W 19:18:18 Duplex Secure's SPTD driver can have a detrimental effect on drive performance. Have you tried disabling the SPTD driver and see if it helps the issue? Was this installed by Alcohol? Although you said you hadn't changed anything and the issue just came up. But it might have just come up with these old drives you got. The drives may have a problem with the SPTD layer. Another possible problem could be the newer age of the drives versus the age of Windows XP. Windows XP simply may not support those newer LG drives. Because, I noticed this: I 19:18:32 -> Stacja dysków CD-ROM (HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH08NS20) (0) Windows XP is recognizing your BD drive as a CD-ROM drive. I would guess that is the cause of your read/verify issue. I know the latest BD drive that LG released, the Ultra HD one, does this on Windows XP. It is recognized only as a CD ROM drive and can only be used for reading. Ah, you replied while I was typing. So, it seems you tried a manual Verify from ImgBurn and got the same thing.

You could disable the automatic Verify. There should be an option on the main Write window to uncheck for Verify, I think. Then, you issue a manual Verify and choose the drive you want to Verify against. I'd be worried simply by the age of the drives being a problem. I'd have said it may be because LG drives aren't very good readers, but you said you can copy the contents from the drive and that they copy fine. So, it wouldn't be that, I'd think. You also say the copying is slow, which would make me think there's something else going on.

Yeah, I was going to post the same thing when I read this post earlier today. Normally, semaphore time out expiration errors are from USB external burners. It's caused by a conflict between the USB bridge in the external enclosure and the controller on your PC's motherboard. I don't think I've ever seen it on an internal SATA connected drive before, either. I, too, was going to request the log, but I didn't post because I thought the log probably wouldn't help. That it would just say the semaphore timeout period expired with no other pertinent data. I was waiting for LUK to post to see about enabling Debug mode first before posting a log. To post a log with the Debug mode enabled.

It really is a case of the best of the worst. If Pioneer quality really hasn't gone off of a cliff, then Pioneer is the best manufacturer of internal BD drives, with 2 issues. Asus made a good USB drive which they don't make anymore, so maybe they make a newer USB drive that's good. But, it's probably just the internal BD they make now in a USB enclosure, so it's no good. LG BD drives are good if you don't want to write to BD-RE DL or have a guaranteed readability of media. Back in the days of DVD burners, Optiarc was the best quality you could get. LiteOn also used to be good, but they had one fatal flaw in that they'd randomly add a pause to some VIDEO_TS discs that wasn't a layer break. Their one BD drive I had did it to 2 out of 3 VIDEO_TS discs before I gave up on it after it stopped writing to BD-RE after 3 months. And now LiteOn doesn't make BD drives, and I don't think they make DVD ones anymore, either. As for being black magic, well, it's not really THAT far off of an analogy. It depends on the magician. In this case, the manufacturer. It's not really in their best interest to make a quality product, since the optical media market is all but dead. And, all they care about is profit margin. So, quality doesn't really matter to them.

Your simplest option is use a DVD+R DL or DVD-R DL blank DVD disc or a BD-R Blu-Ray blank. Use a BD-R only if the device you want to play this MP4 on supports reading from Blu-Ray BD-R discs. If you're going to go for DVD DL media, don't use the ones you find in brick and mortar stores. Most of those are CMC Magnetics or other cheap media that fail half the time. Go online like Amazon.com and look for DataLifePlus series. NOT Life Series. Life Series is CMC. If you want to play this MP4 file, you can't split it across 2 discs. If you're just archiving it, compress it to a ZIP/RAR, etc. with flie splitting options set. Then put one set of the files on one disc and the rest on the second. If you want to play this MP4 file, you'll need a single disc. I suppose you might be able to recreate the MP4 with compression, but the resulting file will probably be unwatchable in terms of how it looks. Oh, plus are you talking about an .MP4 file in this image file or a VIDEO_TS (playable DVD folder) or whatever Blu-Ray's folder is called? If it's a VIDEO_TS you created from an .MP4 file, you could try using DVDShrink to compress the VIDEO_TS to a VIDEO_TS that fits on a single layer recordable DVD. That's its function, after all. However, you will notice a change in the DVD video quality unless you're using an upscaling DVD player that will upscale the disc, like a Playstation 3.

I've had 4 BD-2209's. The last one was the one I told you I sent back to Amazon.com because it didn't write Verbatim BD-R's that the 2nd one was still writing to. It was what made me question Pioneer's quality, that it might be declining. Because my first ones are like 2 years old and still going and the 3rd one needed replacing after like 7 months. The only issues with the BD-2209 are the current firmware being borked with Ritek 8x DVD+RW and the eject button ones. However, the firmware one can be fixed with a tool you can download to force a regression of the firmware to the previous one. And the eject button will eventually eject on the second press. Pioneers are very good readers, too. I had 2 BD-2209's at one point, one for reading and one for writing. It's definitely a better reader than my other BD drive, the LG one I use for writing everything except BD-RE DL.

ASUS did make a pretty good drive, at one time. They made the USB BD drive I still use. I don't think it's available anymore. It passed every single media read and write test I threw at it. So, I had high hopes for an ASUS internal when it came time to try and replace my Pioneer. BAD decision. That ASUS internal BD drive is, as I said, junk, I believe. If you're going for the Pioneer, be sure to test it thoroughly before your chance to return it expires. The last one I got I had to send back to Amazon.com immediately because, out of the box, writing to BD-R was borked on an exact same model, just older, I had of the same Pioneer. So, it's possibly Pioneer drive quality might have gone down. Or it could have just been a random fluke.

Your problem is probably the ASUS BW-12B1ST drive. It's junk, IMO. I had two of these, and the 2nd one went back to Amazon.com. I gave the drive a 2nd chance to see if it was just the one sample I got at first, but it's just junk. It does not write properly to DVD+RW and BD-RE DL media. Attempts to write to DVD+RW always fail and destroy the disc. They cannot be salvaged, even by formatting in a working drive. BD-RE DL worked a little bit better, writing a few times, before also destroying the discs. So, it doesn't write properly to rewritable media, thus I can't see it writing properly to BD-R DL. I would recommend a Pioneer drive. As I said in the other thread you quoted, it's the only drive I've found that works better than other drives. Even the Pioneer has problems. For instance, don't update to the latest firmware if you plan on writing to 8x Ritek DVD+RW. They borked the write strategy so they will always fail Verify, whereas the previous firmware did not. However, the only other issue with Pioneer I had was the eject button. It stops working the first time it's pressed after about 7 months. A 2nd press will work. Even ImgBurn Eject commands may fail the first time if manually executed. They seem to always work after a burn, though. Never understood that. So, Pioneer isn't perfect, but it seems to be the best of what's available out there.

Well, burning more than 1 layer is just problematic to begin with. While if you use the higher quality media, you will definitely have better results than the cheap media DL, it's just an inherent problem when switching layers. I've never burned any BD-R DL, only Verbatim and TDK/Panasonic BD-RE DL, but it seems BD-R DL, even the Verbatims, depends on the drive you're using. For instance, I have two BD drives, a Pioneer and an LG. The LG is absolutely rotten at writing to BD-RE DL. Fails more often than it succeeds and when it does succeed, the data is corrupt on the disc. So, I can't imagine the LG being better at writing BD-R DL. The Pioneer is a different story. I use it exclusively for writing my BD-RE DL media because it's the only drive that writes properly to Verbatim/TDK/Panasonic BD-RE DL. As for BD-R DL, I've seen some increasing posts here that maybe even the quality Verbatim blanks might not be the quality they should be.

I'd echo LUK's statement about trying Verbatim DataLife Plus MKM DVD+R DL. Destination Media Type: DVD+R DL (Disc ID: RICOHJPN-D01-67) Ricoh DVD+R DL is, well, just not very good. I tried 5 of them a few years ago. They all completed burns and Verifies, but 3 of them were unreadable a year later. Verbatim DataLife Plus MKM DVD+R DL is really the only quality DVD+R DL out there. It's not guaranteed to solve your problem, but it's where I'd look into first.

You may have luck with another drive. Like in someone else's PC and copying the files to a flash drive, if their PC drive can read this disc. I have 2 BD drives in my PC, one Pioneer and one LG. I know the LG will fail to read some discs that the Pioneer will read. So, maybe you're not entirely out of luck yet.

UMEDISC-DL1-64 are from Verbatim's Life Series. Life Series are usually CMC Magnetics, so I wouldn't be surprised if UME DVD DL discs are CMC. CMC Magnetics is the bottom of the barrel manufacturer, and Verbatim does tarnish its good name by farming out to CMC for its Life Series discs I've seen in brick and mortar stores. Ether way, I'm sure, since they're Life Series, they're cheap media, probably CMC, and this is probably causing your problem. Your error appears to be right at the layer change, where most failures will occur on DL media, especially with cheap media. As LUK said, get the MKM DVD DL discs. They're the best. But, you usually can't find them in brick and mortar stores. You have to look online for DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series.) media.

Ah, that probably explains it. In brick and mortar stores, even the good stuff, like Verbatim, is the CMC cheap stuff. Except for BD-R, interestingly enough. Verbatim BD-R sold in brick and mortar stores is still quality stuff. When you say the specs for your burner are under 30 Mbps, what exactly are you talking about? If read speed, then it might be a problem, but I doubt that's your issue. What would happen is your drive would cache data from the disc more often. Does this jerky motion occur on a standalone DVD player? Also, is the audio "jerky?" If both audio and video are jerky, then it's probably the disc you used. The player doesn't like reading that kind of manufacturer's media. Or your burner didn't burn to that kind of media very well, even though the burn completed. If it's just jerky video, then it's probably the result of how the video was authored to begin with.

I believe he's saying he tried to burn a DVD to update/program his car's navigation system and that the navigation system does not recognize the DVD as being inserted. Unfortunately, it's probably down to the drive not recognizing that particular manufacturer's DVD has been inserted.

So, it probably wasn't a Blu-Ray Video ISO to begin with, but a DVD Video one. Unless it was a container file that plays on a standalone Blu-Ray player. As I said, most of the problems we see here are caused by CMC Magnetics media. When people switch from them, their problems generally go away. Not always, but usually. If you ever find you need BD-R's in the future, get Verbatim. Don't get Verbatim BD-RE, though. Verbatim farms out their BD-RE to CMC Magnetics. They used to make their own, but not anymore. Their BD-RE DL are quality, though. I've never heard of Maplin before, so it doesn't surprise me that they're cheap discs. Then again, I live in the United States, so maybe in England, Maplin is a known quantity.

It seems unlikely a Blu-Ray Video disc would be just 2 GB. Unless you made it yourself. Did you create it? If so, did you add a VIDEO_TS folder to the ISO? If so, that's a DVD Video disc. If it's a DVD Video disc, you have to burn it to a DVD in order to get a standalone player to recognize it. Blu-Ray is more scratch resistant (They're not scratch proof. Take a pair of scissors to them and see if they resist scratches.) but if you put VIDEO_TS to a BD disc, you can only get it to play in a software player on a PC. Unless the ISO just contains a container file in 1920x1080. A 2 GB container file might explain that. If that's the case, then burning to a BD might have its advantages. A standalone Blu-Ray player that supports reading that container file type from BD discs would work and you'd get the scratch resistance you want. You could try burning it to a DVD. If it's not a CMC MAG DVD, it would help isolate if your problem is caused by CMC MAG BD. However, you may end up "wasting" a disc. If it is Blu-Ray Video content, then a standalone Blu-Ray player won't play it either. Blu-Ray players check the physical type of media inserted to decide what format to play. Blame stupid Sony for this.

Go to Help --> ImgBurn logs, open the log file, find the entry in the log for one of these Check Condition error burns, and copy and paste that part of the log into a post. That may provide a little more helpful information. However, my guess, given that screen shot you posted, your problem is the cheap media you're using. CMC MAG makes the absolutely worst recordable media out there. 50% of the problems we see here are caused by CMC MAG media and most of those problems go away when they don't use CMC MAG and use Verbatim DataLife Plus media. Also, why are you burning 2 GB to a BD-R instead of a DVD? CMCMAG-BA5-000 is BD media, so you're wasting 23 GB of available space burning the 2 GB image in the screen shot to a BD. Plus, if it's a VIDEO_TS DVD Video ISO, burning it to a BD won't play as a DVD in a standalone Blu-Ray player. Only on a PC.

Well, in this case, given the age of Windows 7 and the burner is probably much newer than Windows 7, maybe a driver might be needed? I know that was the case for my ancient 11 year old printer. There weren't 64 bit drivers for it when I finally moved to a 64 bit machine, so I had to finally get rid of it. Maybe optical burners are different and drivers aren't necessary except for generic ones that support generic hardware?

I did forget 2 things. Your target folder for creating a new image file may be on a FAT32 partition instead of NTFS. If it's FAT32, the new image file MUST be split into parts if the image file is greater than 4 GB. Since you said the image was 6 GB, if you have a FAT32 partition, you can't merge the split parts into a single ISO on that partition. Your ImgBurn settings may have image files split into parts at certain file sizes. If so, you'd have to change the setting so it doesn't split the image files if you were going to mount the image and create an image from the virtual drive. I believe I did say you would have to create an MDS in ImgBurn's Tools menu with the split parts if you didn't have an MDS for mounting in a virtual drive software.

And I can think of 2 alternate ways. Mount the split image in virtual drive software and use ImgBurn to create an image of the virtual drive letter without the splitting. The other way is a bit more work. Load the MDS or create one from the split parts in ImgBurn and load that new MDS. Burn the image to a disc and use ImgBurn to image the disc you just burned. So, use a rewritable disc if you have one to save on discs. It will take longer, but you won't have a disc you're just going to throw away. Thought of a possible 3rd option if you have UltraISO. UltraISO might be able to read in the MDS of the split image. Then, you choose to save the image as a new ISO file.

Are you using the Advanced Input mode? In that mode, there's a Size tab next to the Name tab that lists file sizes in KiB.

Is there anything on the disc when you put it in a PC drive and open the contents in Windows/File Explorer? Given the file size and the disc label, it looks like you were trying to burn a container file of a movie to a DVD? Maybe your player(s) don't support that container file type. 1 GB is awfully small for a DVD Video disc. Is this error message just on stand alone physical DVD players? Or is this being returned by PC player software? What exactly is saying the disc is incompatible? If it's a physical DVD player, it may not like DVD-R, which may be the case for older/cheaper/junk players. Or it may just be that the physical player doesn't like MCC DVD-R.

Ah, I actually miss the days of DOS. I preferred things back when you had an argument based option for running things. It was also easier to fix Windows applications errors by just deleting an INI file. No 10,000 Registry keys stored in 100,000 different locations.

I found some pages on using something called TFTP, too, to update the router. However, I've never had a router before, so I only know what I found while looking on Google.

Which .BIN did you get? There are 6. So, I just snagged the first one, "E2000 v1 Firmware - Webflash image for first installation." It is most likely not a disc image file. UltraISO doesn't recognize it as a supported image/bin file type either. So, it's just some kind of giant .BIN file. These guys are apparently idiots. They will also name their firmware files .IMG, making you think they're image floppy file formats. I did some digging, and these appear to be the steps to use to update that router with the .BIN file. https://www.linksys.com/us/support-article?articleNum=132961 Of course, I can take no responsibility for success or failure of this procedure, so do so at your own risk.