dbminter

Ah, I never thought it may be a simple binary file itself. That the firmware itself is called a .BIN read by the router. Yeah, don't try burning it to a disc at all unless the router itself is looking for the file from a disc and doesn't ask you for a location of the file.

So, it is a data disc, not a music CD. It's odd they'd make it a BIN file. But, you can't help their F up. First thing I'd try, since it's not a music CD, is not to create a CUE file on your own as I originally suggested. Create an MDS File instead under Tools. MDS supports BIN. Then, try loading the MDS file in Write mode. Use a rewritable disc in case it doesn't work. That way, you haven't wasted a disc you can't use. If that doesn't work, then, you could try installing virtual drive software like Virtual CloneDrive. Try mounting the MDS file as a virtual drive and see if you can access the contents from the virtual drive. Then just copy the contents. Can you provide a link to the actual BIN file you downloaded from that page? The page you forwarded needs to know a string from your router brand name to download the proper firmware file, so the site as given isn't much help to me. With the actual BIN file to examine, maybe I can determine something or at least put the contents of the BIN or a converted BIN file to another format for you on my OneDrive account.

Yeah, I was going to ask why you're burning it to a DVD? If it's a data DVD, then I can see choosing to go that way because DVD burns faster and your PC won't care. If it's a music CD, and since you've got a BIN file, that would be most likely, but you'd need a CUE file to go with it. If it's a music CD, you'd need to burn it to a CD-R in order for a player to recognize it. You could try the Create CUE File option under Tools and see if that creates a burnable file set with a CUE file. However, you really shouldn't have to do that and I can't really see it helping in this case. Most likely, the BIN file contents are probably corrupt or are not a BIN file to begin with. The file got renamed as a BIN, maybe. How big is this BIN file?

I believe I had the same drive also in 2012. It stopped writing BD-RE after 3 months. The real killer was 3 DVD+R DL VIDEO_TS I burned with it. 2 of the discs had random pauses added to playback that weren't layer breaks. However, this was a common problem that plagued LiteOn DVD burners. It would randomly add pauses to the beginning of some video playback that weren't layer breaks. It was more random on the DVD burners, but 2 out of 3 DVD+R DL's on the BD burner from LiteOn did this. This swore me off of LiteOn drives altogether, even DVD burners as the DVD problem was present for years. Now, it's a moot point as LiteOn stopped making BD drives shortly after I got one from them and now apparently no longer makes any optical burners.

Could be because, as near as I can tell, your drive is a LiteOn Blu-Ray burner. I had a LiteOn as my first BD burner and it died after 3 months. And LiteOn, I don't think, makes burners of any kind anymore. So, their BD seemed to be junk to begin with. Just my opinion. I wouldn't know more unless you tried the latest Pioneer or LG BD drive, which I use. Though I recommend starting with the Pioneer 2209 before the 209 or the LG series burners. I know more about the 2209 than the LG burners, which I only use for one purpose. I've never used a Pioneer 209. However, the 2209 supports the M-Disc discs you had so you can use them with that.

Yeah, it appears to have been a random hiccup. Something in memory interfered with the writing of the image file. Could have been AV software that did it. It was so random that the image integrity was good enough to burn but the actual data was corrupted. I've randomly encountered that a few times. If I get bad burns from the same image file on 2 different burners, then I try recreating the image to see if that helps. If it still doesn't, then I isolate the possibility of the discs being bad in the entire cake stack. Or the incredibly random possibility that both drives failed at the same time. After I've done, of course, partition image restore tests of Windows to a point where I know burning discs worked first. Yes, lots of debugging work, sometimes.

It might be worth doing a disk error scan on the drive where these failed images were. You may have a dying HD or bad sectors. The image could be being saved in these areas that are bad. At least, that's a step I'd take. Unless it's an SSD, which I don't think you're supposed to perform error scans on?

There's no need to get a new burner unless you really want to use those M-Discs. It's probably cheaper just to get new discs. But, if you want to use M-Disc, by all means get an M-Disc capable burner. I actually have both a Pioneer 2209 and an LG one. The last released firmware for the 2209 borked writing to Ritek 8x DVD+RW's. They always fail Verify. The 2nd to most recent firmware doesn't do this. Plus, the last 2209 I got was borked right out of the box. Wouldn't write BD-R properly. Had to go back. And there's the Eject button problem with Pioneer's. After about 7 months, the Eject button won't work the first time you press it 1 in 10 times. Eject commands issued by ImgBurn manually won't work either. If you press the button/issue the command a 2nd time, it works. And ImgBurn's automatic eject command after an operation seems to always work, though. The only reason I still have an LG is because it does write to 8x Ritek DVD+RW properly. However, it has its own set of pretty lengthy problems. LG's are terrible reading drives. And the LG DL BD drives don't properly write to BD-RE DL, even quality media. They will usually fail Verifies or the data is not written correctly to them, resulting in corruption. Plus, the writing BD-RE SL as a giant floppy in Windows Explorer only caps out at 1x instead of the maximum 2x that the 2209 and my ASUS USB will achieve.

M-Disc are a special "flavor" of discs. For DVD's, they're a variant of the DVD+R format. If you have a DVD player/drive that supports DVD+R, and most modern ones should, you will have no compatibility problems with M-Disc. M-Disc is a special kind of disc designed for long term archival purposes. It's basically the difference between writing in ink on paper and chiseling words into stone tablets. The stone tablets won't decay as quickly as the ink on paper. It's basically the laser burning pits into "stone." For non M-Disc DVD, there's organic dye, which decays much quicker than an M-Disc would. The drawback is your burner must support M-Disc, as you've encountered. Pioneer's 2209 BD and LG's WH series drives do. Basically, if it doesn't say M-Disc on the package, that's what you're after, unless your burner supports M-Disc. M-Disc also cost more, but they do last much longer so the price can be worth the trade off. Any DVD-/+R/DL media will "do," however, there are a lot of cheap manufacturers out there, like CMC. And Memorex will farm out to them. As will Verbatim IF you buy the Life series sold online and in brick and mortar stores. What you'll want to get are Verbatim DataLife Plus series DVD-R/DVD+R/DVD-R DL/DVD+R DL, depending on the size you need, compatibility (For instance, DVD+R DL is more compatible with DVD players than DVD-R DL.), and what you're willing to pay for the quality you get. However, you can generally only find those online like where I get them at Amazon.com. Now, some drives simply don't like certain kinds of manufacturers' media. So, it really is a bit of trial and error before you find what works best for you. I just recommend the best quality stuff out there because most people generally don't have problems with Verbatim MKM (DataLife Plus) series media. I was relatively sure the miniISO file was some kind of emulation file, but why is ImgBurn excluding it? What if you really NEED to backup that file?

Yes, I was going to suggest the same thing. That drive probably didn't support M-Disc. A similar post happened a few weeks/months ago and that seemed to be the problem. BTW, what does this entry in that log mean: W 20:46:52 Removed Filtered File: \DVDFab.miniso What's a filtered file and why would it be removed? I don't think I've ever seen such a log entry ever before.

I wouldn't be too worried about it. Computers often times guestimate and programs make wildly inaccurate guesses. For instance, when I use Handbrake to convert video files, it will say initially that the time remaining to finish is -1:01. After a few seconds, it adds in the appropriate "real" values.

CD burners were more reliable because they only did 3 functions: write CD-R, write CD-RW, and read CD's. Only 1 format, with 2 different flavors. Once DVD burners were introduced, you had to add in read and write capabilities for DVD-R and DVD-RAM. Eventually DVD+R, DVD-RW, and DVD+RW were added. Then, they added DVD-R DL and DVD+R DL, making it even more complicated. Then BD burners added yet another layer of things it did with BD-R, BD-RE, BD-R DL, and BD-RE DL. Then, they added BD-R XL and BD-RE XL. And then they added M-Disc. As you add layers of complexity to what a device can do, the likelihood of it failing one of those components increases by a factor of levels. Media also used to be more reliable because the crap manufacturers hadn't gotten into the business yet. Memorex used to make a great CD-RW when the media was new. Then, CMC came along, and Memorex sold out their CD-RW to them.

Yeah, I have no direct, empirical experience with slim model drives. So, I can't say from actual use of them. I'm just going by the general experience of people who have reported problems here with them. I think I had a Matshita full height DVD-R/RAM drive back in 2002. I ended up replacing it when the dual format model from Sony came out. However, I had no problems with what I used it for. Then again, it was a full height one, too.

The cheap ones can be just as problematic, though, because many are slim model drives. Slim models have a low performance track record in correlation to the posts we see about them on here. Get a full height external drive when you can. Or get a full height internal model and put in in an external drive enclosure. But, if what you have works, stick with it.

Yes, don't go replacing all your hardware as a first step to troubleshooting. Ritek is a common compatibility problem for many users, particularly when using DL media. Personally, I've rarely had any problem with them, except their RiData line, but then I only use Ritek for their 8x DVD+RW, because the only other kinds out there are CMC, and sometimes a few BD-R/E that I don't plan on playing on my PS3. Your first step should be try using Verbatim media and see if you get the same problems. Verbatim is about the best you can get out there, with the fold of Taiyo Yuden. However, don't get the Life Series discs you find in brick and mortar stores or online. Get the DataLife Plus media you can only find online. I get mine from Amazon.com. If you get the Life Series, you will get CMC media, which IS the cheapest media out there.

I'd try playing these discs with software player on a PC. Especially someone else's PC as your drives could be the problem. If they skip back on a PC, which is generally more forgiving than a standalone DVD player, then your drive is probably turning out bad discs. You can also just try testing these discs on someone else's standalone DVD player. If it skips on theirs, you could be more likely to blame your PC burner as turning out bad discs. However, it could be just a case where the other person's DVD player doesn't like that media. So, you can't be really for sure.

I would guess you could always make a .BAT file calling the .EXE with the command line option if you can't get a Project file saved that way.

There used to be an old joke that LG stood for Lucky Good because it was Lucky Good if it worked right. The first LG DVD burner I had was a rebranded drive from IOMega. That thing was wrong out of the box. 50% of the DVD's it burned played back with random skips and pauses on the Playstation 2. That turned me off to LG products for years until I needed a new BD burner and there was an LG one at Best Buy in town. It replaced my LiteOn BD burner that stopped writing BD-RE after 3 months and completely turned me off of LiteOn products. And I think LiteOn no longer makes BD burners, which tells you something. That LG BD burner lasted about a year and then I got a 2nd LG one which lasted about a year. Then I tried a Pioneer. I've had 4 of those. 3 of them performed fairly well, but the last one was borked right out of the box. The only reason I got another LG again was because the latest firmware for Pioneer borks Ritek 8x DVD+RW writes. The LG doesn't. However, the LG has its own issues. It doesn't write BD DL media properly and writes giant floppy formatted BD-RE DL at 1x instead of 2x. And what it does write, the data is corrupt. So, next time, I'm giving Pioneer another shot. I can downgrade the firmware on the Pioneer to the last to the latest revision which does write 8x Ritek DVD+RW correctly.

Sorry, ignore some of what I said, like you rebuilding an entire system. I think I crossed over this thread with another one in my brain.

Yeah, single layer burns rarely are an issue. Although as sure as I said that, last week, I had a SL fail Verify. It must have been a defective DVD-R, though, because I've not had a single failure of them since. Introducing more than 1 layer (1 layer for DVD DL and up to 2 for BD XL) always causes a problem. And the Write/Verify almost always tends to fail at the layer change. Amazon in the US has a good return policy, too. I got an ASUS and they accepted my returns because on 2 different copies of the same model, it did the same thing: destroyed rewritable DVD+RW and BD-RE DL. AV software generally is not an issue with optical burning problems. It can be but rarely is. I just always test it first. Especially since you're using the same software on the PC that doesn't work and the laptop that does, there's no need to test a burn on that. Since you've tried on the same PC where it was failing in Normal Mode and didn't fail in Safe Mode, the safe bet would be it's something that loads in Normal Mode that doesn't in Safe Mode. What I would do at this point is restore my Windows partition to its factory default installation and try again. Without installing anything else other than ImgBurn. However, you have to be relatively comfortable with imaging your PC, restoring images, juggling partitions, etc. It's not for everyone, but if you're comfortable with it, it can help you isolate what it might be. Especially if this drive had worked at some point before, then something is being introduced somewhere by a software installation, or worse a Windows Update, that is causing the problem. Since it seems to be something introduced at the software level, an enclosure might be a good investment to make for testing. If it still fails on a USB channel and it had failed on SATA but didn't fail on SATA in Safe Mode, then there's some kind of layer in there somewhere causing the issue. Something that loads in Normal Mode that doesn't in Safe Mode.

At this point, about the only way you can really test is if the new drive is bad (It's happened. My last Pioneer was borked right out of the box and had to go back to Amazon.com.) is get an enclosure and put the drive in that. If it fails on the enclosure, it could be the drive as USB will be on a different channel than SATA. However, if your issue is a software related one, something that loads in Normal mode that doesn't in Safe mode, it won't matter. And since it worked in Safe mode but doesn't in Normal mode, you can almost all but certainly rule out that the drive itself is the problem. You could also get an enclosure and try it on your laptop. That would prove if it's the drive that's the problem. As for what loads in Normal mode that could be a problem, Windows is so too terribly complex it's almost virtually impossible to troubleshoot what it could be. You said you built an entirely new system from the bottom up, right, including this new drive? Did you reinstall everything before you tested a new burn or did you do a test burn immediately after building the PC and configuring Windows on its first boot? Are you using the same SATA cable you had before with this drive or did you try a different one? Could be the cable, but since it works in Safe Mode and not in Normal Mode, it's most likely not that. As for what I'd try first, I'd try disabling your antivirus software in Normal Mode and try another burn. AV software generally doesn't interfere with anything, but when I come across any kind of problem, the first thing I test is disabling my AV software.

Windows Media Player in Windows 10 doesn't play DVD's. Post the entire log from ImgBurn's burn where you got taht uncorrectable error, please. Uncorrectable errors have nothing to do with incorrect video types. It's a hardware error or media error. Either your drive is dying or it doesn't like that media.

Yeah, one time someone posted a problem with Elements and the problem was fixed by not using Elements. So, that could be your problem. Elements might not have created a proper VIDEO_TS. As long as your TV is PAL, then a PAL DVD should play and that wouldn't be the video problem. Of course, on a PC, that doesn't matter. Windows 10 is probably not returning this error, but some software running in Windows 10 is. Unless you bought the DVD App to play DVD's with as Windows 10 has no native DVD playback software. What DVD player software is returning this error?

Depends on what you're playing this DVD on. You said you're using Windows 10, so I'm guessing you're using some kind of playback software. If that's the case, then it seems VIDEO_TS wasn't authored correctly. If you're not playing this DVD on a PC and it's a standalone physical player, then it could be the video format is wrong for your TV. You're trying to play PAL on NTSC or some kind of variation of that. Or unsupported video type could be it's trying to play a container file that isn't supported. It may be in the OpenDVD folder or VIDEO_TS. Or it could be as I said the VOB's aren't correct in VIDEO_TS so the DVD won't play.

My experience with BD-R has been if you have playback issues of the kind you describe, where video is skipped to different positions, it's your drive being unable to read that kind of media properly. For instance, I discovered the PS3 doesn't like Ritek BD-R after when I tried playing a BD-R of home movies, it skipped over the first title set entirely, which I had set to play before the main menu, and then skip directly to the main menu. When I burned the same image to a Verbatim BD-R, the PS3 played it as it should have, playing the pre-menu title set first and then loading the menu. If you can, you should try playing this disc in another drive or on another computer. Or, as LUK said, try reading the disc to an image and mounting it as a virtual drive. See if you can play it properly that way.