dbminter

Now, I did not know that.

Yeah, if it plays in color on your PC but plays back in black and white on your TV, possibly with some shakiness, then you've got a PAL DVD. NTSC will play on PAL TV's properly but not the other way around. One possible way to check is to download the trial of AnyDVD and install it. Then load the DVD in AnyDVD and check its status results on the disc. I believe it lists whether your video type is PAL or NTSC in AnyDVD. PAL/NTSC conversions can be done with software. I know ConvertXToDVD will.

Could be a few things. You said it's a PC game disc. Sometimes those are copy protected. That would prevent the disc from being read. The disc may be old/scratched and your drive can't read it for that reason. Depending on the age of the disc, it may simply be no longer readable. Most likely not the case of being unreadable, but it's possible. Sometimes, some drives just fail to read a particular disc for a particular random reason. If you can try it in a different drive and see if that's the case, you'd eliminate that as a possibility. If it fails in another drive, then the issue is one of the above ones. I am a bit puzzled by this entry in the log: I 12:05:45 Source Media Supported Write Speeds: 172.7x 172x write speed! That seems a little odd for a disc for a read operation.

Most likely, it's the Ricoh Japan DVD+R DL discs you're using. Get Verbatim DataLife Plus discs online. Don't get the Life series. DataLife Plus is the only good option for DVD+R DL. Unless you've used these discs before fine. If you've used them before fine, then your drive most likely needs replacing. Try updating the firmware. Right click on the drive entry in the drop list in Write mode and choose Check for firmware updates.

I'd be inclined to blame the Sony media since Sony's made little but junk since 2002, but that's just personal opinion of Sony. However, my experience with Sony BD-R was the 4 I had, 2 failed to burn properly, 1 succeeded, and I shredded the fourth one without trying and wasting my time. Only reason I tried them was K-Mart had them on sale to get rid of them. I have some Pioneer XL BD drives but I've never had the XL media to test it with. So, I can't say with any experience anything about why your drive might not recognize the media. It's most likely a firmware issue. That drive doesn't like those Sony discs. You will most likely never see a firmware update for a USB drive. I've had several USB burners over the last 15 years and never once found a firmware update for any of them.

I really like video games, but not fighting games. The only fighting games in my collection are Marvel Vs. Capcom for the Playstation because Dr. Wily is in it and Beast Wars: Transmetals because I met several of the voice cast from that game at various BotCons. Turns out Transmetals became a very rare PS game. I only ever saw 2 copies: the one I bought at Babbage's and a 2nd copy the store got in. I almost got Marvel Vs. Capcom 3 because MODOK is one of my favorite Marvel Comics villains. I have an original printing of his first appearance in Tales Of Suspense. Plus there was talk that Doctor Octopus, another favorite Marvel Comics character who I have an original printing of their first appearance, might be introduced into the game at a later date as downloadable content. There's a space saver in the game listed as Doc Ock, but nothing ever came of it. However, I never really could play it because my PS3 is my media player in my bedroom and has no access to the Internet to download content. So, I have no games for the PS3 because most of them require you download patches to even be able to play them properly. The "Set a release date, release the game, and fix it later" model everyone has adopted now. However, I haven't invested any real time in playing a game in 10 years. Last game I played was Spider-Man: Friend Or Foe for PS2 because you could play as Doctor Octopus. But, 10 years ago was the last time I ever felt like doing anything, really. In fact, 10 years ago was when I tried killing myself. To save you time and trouble, iterating I'm not condoning the action or helping in it directly because of the legal areas, but you do realize you can't just copy a game and pop it into an XBox 360 and expect it to play, right? I believe XBox 360's must be hard modded with a mod chip in order to play copies. Some consoles you can soft mod with software tweaks.

Tell me about it. Life hasn't been worth living for the past 31 years. Yet, I've only tried killing myself once. Go figure. Depending on how the app you're going to try interprets errors, you may have better results. It's highly unlikely, but you never know. Unfortunately, CMC is a waste of money. I sunk about $1,000 trying to debug failed burns that ended up being caused by CMC media. I was buying more discs and new burners and DVD video recorders trying to fix the issue. Turned out it was because Optodisc switched from their quality discs to CMC I had never heard of CMC until I stumbled across tech support online talking about CMC media. It made me check the MID/DID/Manufacturer ID/Disc ID of the discs that had worked and the discs that were failing. Sure enough, the failing discs were all CMC Magnetics. So, yeah, every chance I get to take money out of CMC's coffers, I do it because of how much they robbed me of.

There are instances where you can cross flash firmwares if the drives are similar and support it. However, you have to really know what you're doing to even execute it and I don't recommend you try it. You can end up killing a drive beyond fixing. Plus, let's face it, more often than not firmware updates don't fix CMC issues.

Yes. Even when a drive fails, it will often times burn all other media and fail on only one kind. And it's usually DVD+R DL on which it will fail first. In your case, it most likely not a dying drive as you appear to never have used it before for DVD+R DL. However, it doesn't necessarily mean it didn't ship out of the factory bad. I've had at least one, possibly a 2nd, that arrived and they didn't write properly, requiring replacement. Again in your case, it's most likely the CMC media that's the problem. Your drive probably doesn't like them, either because it's just cheap media in general or there is an incompatiblity with your drive's firmware and that disc. You could try using ImgBurn's firmware update tool. In Write mode, right click on the drive letter drop down field and choose Check for firmware update. Sometimes, but not always, a firmware update can fix the problem. I've had an issue where DVD+R DL failed to burn properly in my Pioneer until a firmware update a year later fixed the issue.

Yeah, regardless of what you're going to try to burn to them, they're going to fail A different burning app MIGHT ignore particular errors and you get a successful burn, but there's no guarantee the disc will actually be usable/readable.

You probably can't return them because the one you say can't be used was probably actually "burned." ImgBurn wrote some data to it but couldn't complete the entire burn. So, like less than 1% of the burn was completed, but because it couldn't complete, the disc is technically "written." Plugins won't help. They have nothing to do with this issue. Well, you could try changing the settings until the cows come home. However, you most likely won't get anywhere. But, let's see if enabling OPC helps. LUK knows more about this topic, obviously, than I do.

Yeah, the Verbatim Life Series (Not DataLife Plus Series) are CMC Magnetics junk. Any Verbatim you buy in a brick and mortar store will be CMC MAG junk. So, it's no surprise that Best Buy's website would offer their store items on it. CMC Magnetics is the worst manufacturer of optical media out there. A good deal of issues we see on these boards are cured when people switch from CMC and other junk media to higher quality media. And when it comes to DVD+R DL, the only really good choice is Verbatim MKM DataLife Plus which you can only get online. While I've had good results with DVD+R DL from TDK, they're a rare exception. As for incompatibility, that could be the case but it's most likely just the fact that CMC is junk media. If you're in the US, search Amazon.com for Verbatim DataLife Plus DVD+R DL. Now, be aware that switching from cheap CMC to DataLife Plus isn't a magic bullet. I recently fielded a poster who had issues with CMC and switched on my recommendation and still had his issues. However, that most likely seemed like his drive was dying as it was like 2 years in use. That being said, you're still better off switching. CMC, in addition to high failure rates, have low life expectancy. I've got Verbatim DataLife Plus MKM that were burned in 2009 that are still readable. I had some Ritek DVD+R DL that half of them were unreadable after a year.

Of course, I'd be inclined to blame the CMC MAG media. Your drive probably doesn't like that kind of disc. Pretty much, the only non-junk brand of DVD+R DL are Verbatim DataLife Plus MKM media you can only get online.

Is that the whole log? I don't see things like the MID/DID/Manufacturer ID/Disc ID or other data like the target media type, size of the image, etc. L0 set and the 2.4x write speed indicate you appear to be trying to write to a dual layer recordable disc. However, it doesn't say whether it's DVD+R DL or DVD-R DL. I think we're missing some key components to be able to help fully.

I think I may have suggested this before. If I have, my apologies. I was thinking of a command to add somewhere in ImgBurn menus to export the ImgBurn Registry settings to a .REG file. That way, people won't have to navigate the Registry themselves. Plus, should the Registry key ever change names/location, the application would know where to look itself. It's not like there's precedent from Microsoft changing the names/locations of Registry key items, is there?

If you plan on getting an external burner, don't get a slim model drive. They're basically junk. Get a full height drive.

From what I've seen, when you start getting Power Calibration Errors after you have had no problem with burning discs before, your drive most likely needs replacing. Unfortunately, dual layer burning will generally be the first thing to fail in a drive. Everything else will, generally, still burn fine as long as its single layer. And most burning errors will occur at the layer break.

Have you always had this: W 17:57:38 Duplex Secure's SPTD driver can have a detrimental effect on drive performance. and you were able to burn fine? Or is Secure's SPTD driver something you just recently installed? The only thing I can offer is that. If that's even a suspect or not, I can't say.

If you do get an external burner, do not get a slim model. Get a full height drive. Slim drives are mostly junk. Yes, a drive should last longer than a year, but they generally don't. That's the problem with things made to sell for a profit. They're designed to die early so you'll buy another one. I've had a Blu-Ray drive from LiteOn that died after 3 months. However, I've had a good run with my Pioneer Blu-Ray burner. It was a year and a half before I had to replace it and it only needed replacing because sometimes, like 1 out of 10, pressing the Eject button would not eject the tray. Pressing it again would. It still burns fine and I still have it in reserve should I need it.

Well, they're MCC media so you're using quality media. It can't be the media, since you get the same error on CMC and MCC media; it's most likely the drive. It probably needs replacing. If your computer is 2 years old, have you been burning discs for those 2 years? In other words, you got successful burns before in the past but aren't anymore? If you've been burning for 2 years, then you're lucky it's lasted that long. Most drives I've had needed replacing after a year at best. Unfortunately, just because a drive can still play DVD's doesn't mean it hasn't failed in writing. In fact, just because a drive still writes other kinds of media, it can still need replacing. My experience has been that when drives fails to write DVD+R DL at the layer break, they'll still write DVD+-R and RW and CD-R/RW fine. Dual layer media tends to fail first. Near as I know, power calibration errors aren't the result of a power calibration setting you can change. Power calibration is down to the drive. Seems to me if there's a power calibration error, that's a hardware error, if you've ruled out cheap media.

For DVD-R, here's what I get: Branded AZO non DataLife Plus: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00081A2KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Inkjet DataLife Plus: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A0CV9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are made by MCC, Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, aka Verbatim. Notice how CMC is just a rearrangement of MCC? I think it's done on purpose to try and fool people.

Yeah, I learned the hard way by buying Verbatim CD-R and DVD-R at Office Depot. They were CMC MAG and they were Life series. I promptly returned them for a refund because Verbatim didn't make them. CMC Magnetics made them. I don't know why DataLife Plus series is only available from online sellers. I'd have hoped Verbatim would offer the discerning buyer a choice of quality or crap instead of just crap at brick and mortar stores. I buy some DVD-R from Amazon.com that don't say DataLife Plus but are the higher quality. They have the AZO brand on them. I don't know if the DVD+R you bought say AZO or not. If they don't, then you'll want something online that says either AZO or DataLife Plus. My inkjet DVD-R are DataLife Plus but my branded DVD-R from Amazon.com don't say DataLife Plus, just AZO. Yeah, it's all too confusing when it shouldn't have to be. It's only done that way to squeeze an extra dollar from buyers.

Probably because you bought them in a brick and mortar store? If so, even though they're Verbatims, they're cheap ass CMC MAG media You'll want DataLife Plus media, but you can only get that online. If you got just Life series Verbatims in a store or online, they're junk. So, Verbatim is the best choice, but you have to get the right Verbatims Yes, even Verbatim mixes their quality releases with junk CMC media to squeeze an extra buck out of their customers. Well, if you've used them before in the past, maybe they weren't always CMC MAGs. Companies are known to change their manufacturers from quality to cheap CMC. I put Optodisc on my shit list because after a run of high quality discs they produced, they switched to CMC MAG and 50% of their discs failed. If you can find one of these Verbatim DVD+R's you have successfully burned in the past, load it in ImgBurn and see if it's DID/MID/Disc ID/Manufacturer ID is CMC MAG. If it is and you had no problems in the past, then your drive probably needs replacing. How long have you been burning with it? Still, you shouldn't use CMC MAG, even if they do successfully burn. Their longevity is highly questionable.

Yeah, I'd guess it's the cheap CMC MAG media that's causing the problem.

I don't know what you mean by an optical unit/scanner. Your PC's DVD drive should be all that you need. Yeah, try the Read mode, but I doubt if it will detect anything is in the drive as I believe the disc is dead. Especially if it doesn't play in a DVD player on in your PC drive. You may get a partial read, but I think there's simply nothing there to read at all.