dbminter

Yeah, it seems you're trying to use Read mode to read a disc to image file? If the DVD is multi-track/session/whatever it is I forget you can't read it to an image file with ImgBurn. But, you can do as ianmaty says. My Panasonic DVD recorder does the same thing. I have to Build new discs. Go into Build mode and drag and drop the VIDEO_TS folder into the Build job. ImgBurn will set all the necessary options and folder structures as long as VIDEO_TS is compliant.

As far as I know, such a thing is based on write strategies. Those are imbedded in the firmware in the drive. So, I'd think there's nothing that could be added to ImgBurn to make burning M-Discs are better. ImgBurn just issues commands to the drive and it's up to the drive to interpret them. However, by that same token, M-Disc drives might have different commands in them that ImgBurn could support. So, bottom line is, I'm not sure. LUK would have to weigh in on that.

I decided to try out DVDFlick. Wow it seems to be slow. I tested a less than 25 minute file with it. It's been 25 minutes now and it's only at 5% into encoding the audio file. ConvertXToDVD does it in like 10 minutes total. Of course, the downside to ConvertXToDVD is it's always loaded with bugs and the programmers are regressing old and new bugs back into the software all the time.

I didn't know that. I always had a VIDEO_TS folder created by ConvertXToDVD for me where it placed the VOB files. I just drag and drop the folder. I didn't know ImgBurn would automatically create the VIDEO_TS folder structure just from the VOB and IFO file combination. I knew it would set the recommended settings based on adding a VIDEO_TS folder.

Yeah, if you're using something that converts to VOB and IFO format, all you have to do is use Build mode, create a VIDEO_TS folder in the root directory, copy all the VOB, IFO, and BUP files your convertor software created into this folder, and let ImgBurn choose the necessary default formats for DVD Video. I use ConvertXToDVD. It creates everything necessary in a VIDEO_TS and I just add that folder to a Build job. Works all the time.

1.) I don't think there's actually an application that would convert NTSC PS games to PAL. 2.) it wouldn't do anything to help you with a region lock issue. PAL and NTSC are just video formats. You could still play an NTCS on your European PS. However, the video might not be compatible. I know from experience playing PAL PS on my NTSC PS, PAL would play on my modded system but the video was impossible to watch. The audio was fine but the video was in black and white and flashing. I don't know if it happens in reverse, but I thought that NTSC played on PAL. Just not the other way around. So, converting to PAL from NTSC wouldn't do any good about the game not loading. It's still a region lock issue.

Let me guess. Symantec is flagging OpenCandy as a virus. It's not a virus. Many AV software vendors flag it as a virus. It's unnecessaryware but relatively harmless as long as you don't get click happy during what it tries to install for you. I just disconnect from the Internet whenever I run an OC wrapped installer like ImgBurn's or Freemake software. That way, OC can't download or run anything. Doesn't help in your case as your AV is deleting the file before you can even run it.

I believe that mod chips have to specifically support bypassing the region lock in order for outer region games to load. They need to be hard coded to bypass the region locking. I don't believe all chips did that, especially older ones. I don't know that for sure, though. I had an ancient PS with the serial port on the back. I got a device that connected to it to play Japanese import games.

Plus, you can't just infer that because they're Verbatim CD-R's that they're any good. Verbatim farms out their CD production partly to CMC Magnetics, the worst optical disc manufacturer out there. Unless they're DataLife Plus they're most likely CMC. If you bought them in a brick and mortar store, they're most likely CMC. You'd need to check the MID/DID field in ImgBurn on one of the CD-R's to see. Also, I don't know why you're merging the tracks together. That should surely cause some kind of problem, I'd think. I believe PS games sometimes store their music as a separate track on their game discs. So, even if the game works, you'd most likely not have any music.

Have you used MKM DVD+R DL before? If so, it must have worked before. If this is your first time using MKM media and it failed, then your drive may not like MKM media. If it has worked before, then a burn that succeeds and suddenly starts failing Verify usually means your burner needs replacing. Especially at the start of Layer 0 or Layer 1. That's been my experience anyway. At least you're using the good Verbatim DVD+R DL. You're not using CMC. Actually, if you were using CMC, the solution would probably be easier: don't use CMC.

Actually, with CMC's not working at all, I don't find it unbelievable.

I tried that. Doesn't work. Still appends the Artist Name to the file name. In fact, in the help box that comes up, the text seems to say that Artist Name is not affected by editing those fields. Tried out FreeRIP. That seems to work.

At least CDEx detects CD Text. However, can I stop if from adding the Artist field to the MP3 file names? I only want the Track Number and the Track Name in my MP3 file names? It doesn't seem I can. If I can't stop it, I won't use it. Why should I have to rename all my MP3's to remove a field I don't want when I should be able to keep the software from adding something the writer of the software wants me to have instead of leaving it up to me?

EAC is useless for what I need. CD-Text option is grayed out for both my LG and Pioneer drives. I said I needed software to read CD-Text, so it's useless for me!

I think I'll try EAC. Too many things wrong with CDEx. For instance, it seems that changing the Ripping file structure doesn't stop CDEx from naming all MP3's with the Artist name.

I'll keep EAC in mind. I gave CDEx a try. What was weird was my test CD Text disc I made about 10 years ago was not recognized as having CD Text. However, I created a new audio disc with ImgBurn with CD Text and CDEx detected the CD Text. Also weird was it did not detect my Pioneer drive. It detected my LG and all 3 of my VirtualClone drives but not my Pioneer. So, I may have to try EAC for when I get rid of the LG drive and if CDEx does not detect my replacement drive.

Just checked the Features list on the website you linked. It does support CDDB. So, I'll probably give it a throw.

Does CDex also support CDDB or some kind of online database for CD's without CD Text?

Yeah, given what had already been tried and the results, it seemed most likely that the burner in question was the culprit. Glad you got it to work and sorry you need to replace your PC burner.

It's not necessarily weird that a drive would stop working in one particular aspect. The last LG I had to replace still worked fine for reading and writing BD-R and RE, CD-R and RW, and DVD-R, but would no longer write DVD+R DL. Everything else worked fine except for DVD+R DL. And it's not out of the realm of possibility that it worked fine the last time you tried it in November but then stopped working the next time you try it. That's the nature of the beast when it comes to drive failures. One thing you can try is if you can get your hands on an external drive, try burning a copy to it. If the external works then you can pretty much pin the problem on this other drive you've been trying.

Well, if the PS1 still works and you used Riteks before and now they don't work, then if the Sony's don't work, and they probably won't work at this point, the problem is your burner, most likely.

Yeah, Optodisc was once a quality brand around 2002 to 2003. Then, they switched to CMC and their OPTODISC media went to crap as well. However, it is interesting that since all drives use the basic command set, as was detailed in the response, that one piece of software should work and not another. Unless that other software is issuing non-standard commands. I'd recommend trying Taiyo Yuden DVD-R while it's still around or "pure" Verbatim, i.e MCC DataLife Plus brand not Life series CMC brand. See if that helps.

BTW, if you don't mind doing a solid service for your local online community leave reviews on the sites of the products you buy. Copy and paste the MID/DID field into the review text. This will tell others who are knowledgable whether to buy them or not. Since no one else was doing so on Amazon.com, I always leave the MID/DID for product reviews. That way, people can avoid buying CMC crap like I've done.

Well, I know USA TDK BD-RE is CMC. However, TDK makes Verbatim's BD-RE DL. My guess is the only reason is because CMC doesn't make a BD-RE DL. So, it's a crap shoot if you'll get CMC BD-R from TDK or not. When TDK makes its own media, it's usually quality media. However, TDK used to make their own CD-R and I think they switched to CMC. So, TDK is like Verbatim. Both make good media when they make it themselves or in the case of Verbatim, farm out to Mitsubishi, one of the best manufacturers out there. However, both companies will also farm out to CMC, the worst, for a quick buck. Now, this is just my personal opinion, but TDK sort of burned a bridge with me by using any CMC media for its BD-RE. So, I'd be wary of trying their BD-R's. However, you won't know until you actually buy some. Like some JVC BD-RE's I got over the weekend. I knew for the price I paid they had to be CMC and they were. JVC Victor has Taiyo Yuden as one of its brands, and TY makes CD and DVD on par with "pure" Verbatim. However, TY doesn't do BD. It seems they may make BD-R under a That's label, but they appear to be Ritek. I looked for DataLife Plus on the amazon.de site before I posted and didn't find anything there.

Just to cover all the bases, have you tried inserting an actual PS1 game disc and make sure it still plays? Since you tried both a Verbatim CD-R and a Ritek that you know did work before and now isn't, I'd say it's either the PS 1 being the problem or your burner, inferring that you've used this burner before on Riteks that worked in the PS 1. How old is this PS 1? Sony's notorious, IMO, for using cheap parts. I had my 1997 PS 1 stop spinning discs after 4 years. However, I played it a HELL of a lot. I sent it in to Sony for repairs and they replaced the entire laser assembly, I think. It lasted a year or 2 before it stopped spinning again. I bought a PS 2 in 2002. It stopped reading game discs after a year.