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dbminter

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Everything posted by dbminter

  1. Last I checked, .img was a file type for images of floppy disks made by WinImage. Are you talking floppy disks or install discs like CD's for this software? If it's floppy disks, ImgBurn won't image those. You'd need something like the aforementioned WinImage.
  2. My order arrived and near as I can tell, even though they're like 4 times less in price, the MID does say they're MKM-003's. So, they appear to be the good stuff. Although I don't have anything in need of burning right now to a DVD+R DL, so I can't test to make sure they work okay. If I can remember, I'll be sure to use one of these new ones first on my next need to burn DVD Video to a DVD+R DL.
  3. The NS60 has had a few read hiccups over the years. Maybe 5% of what I've fed it won't fully read, but another drive, like my Verbatim Pioneer USB drive, will read. It's a shame you can't find NS60's anymore. Just the NS40.
  4. The CMC Pro discs are TY discs. At least, the MID's say they are. You can always fake an MID, though. I tried out some of them and they all burned and played back on a PS3 without issues. Sony used to make a quality DVD-R when they made it themselves. Now, they farm out to Ritek, which is okay 2nd tier media in North America; in Europe, Ritek appears to be junk. There's a section of the Forums dedicated to media reviews: https://forum.imgburn.com/forum/15-media/ The most recent posts, in fact, appear to be from me. I underwent a task to check all of my recorded discs since some were burned before I knew what CMC was. So, I took the opportunity to replace any MCC DVD-R I had recorded with MCC Verbatim DataLife Plus inkjet printable DVD-R. While I was at it, I decided to post a list of discs that were still readable 15-20 years after they were burned.
  5. Yeah, I came across both Amazon entries, as well. I can't explain it, either; it's really weird. If you do a general search for those terms, the first hit is for the $67, but if you scroll down through the list of hits, you find the $25 one. My order is supposed to arrive today.
  6. The order I just placed a few hours ago has already shipped. Amazon appears to be going on a selling spree. I already got something else I was monitoring because it dropped half in price and something else I also ordered went from $42 to $24, with the Prime shipping.
  7. It's weird. My first search for the inkjet discs turned up only an entry with 3rd party sellers. However, scrolling down through the list of hits, I did find another entry that was Amazon shipped. I have ordered those branded AZO discs before. They are Mitsubishi MKM.
  8. Amazon.com still offers them for shipping themselves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F2YPH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 If you're looking for inkjet printable labeled ones: https://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-98319-Datalifeplus/dp/B07GPTV77F/ref=sr_1_14?crid=3US12YPGDHO5O&keywords=verbatim+dvd%2Br+dl+inkjet&qid=1700321675&s=electronics&sprefix=verbatim+dvd%2Br+dl+inkjet%2Celectronics%2C242&sr=1-14 Although, I can't explain the super low price of the inkjet ones. They're nearly half off the Deal price of the branded ones. At that price, I'm tempted to get some for myself, even though I currently don't need any, and keep them in storage. IF they're the MKM ones. I have a feeling Verbatim might discontinue them or Amazon is trying to get rid of unsold stock. The good news is if they're NOT the MKM ones, Amazon.com has a very good return policy.
  9. Yes, convert the MP4 to DVD Video disc. There are some freeware tools, but I've never used them, so I can't recommend any. From what I've seen of them, they're not really very good. I use ConvertXToDVD, but that's a paid license piece of software.
  10. I have no idea, sorry. As I said, I've never had an XBox, so I've never even looked at an XBox disc in a PC drive before, let alone trying to make an archive of one.
  11. If you're just trying to put an MP4 on a disc and play it on a player that natively supports MP4 playback, just go into Build mode and drag and drop the MP4 file(s) into the job. Then create the ISO in Build mode and use Write mode to write the ISO to a disc. This might help you further: However, if your player does not natively support playback of an MP4 from a disc, then copying it to a disc won't do much good since it won't play from it. It would play on a PC with some kind of playback software, though.
  12. You have the solution already: convert the WAV files to FLAC. If the FLAC's work, then the problem is the WAV files are improperly encoded.
  13. Don't know. I've never owned an XBox system. I think, though, you needed specially modified firmware to properly overburn to DVD+R DL in order for it to work.
  14. There's your problem. The Life Series are the junk Verbatim discs. Where I live, they're CMC Magentics, the bottom of the barrel. So, I would guess where you live, UDE discs are your CMC's.
  15. Which ones are the UDE discs? The ones in the middle or the ones on the bottom? Either day, definitely dump the Life Series discs. Those are junk. The problem is probably just the UDE discs in general. I'm not familiar with UDE MID's but the only reliable DVD+R DL out there are the MKM ones.
  16. It sounds like you're trying to burn all the files onto a disc. The ISO file needs to burnt instead of copied to a disc with the WAV and CUE file. However, Sega Saturn games are CD's and CD's are generally not ISO but BIN/CUE. When you add the WAV file to a job, ImgBurn tries to make an Audio CD out if it, it seems. That's why the DirectShow error comes up. ImgBurn is attempting to make an Audio CD out of the WAV file from what I can tell.
  17. ImgBurn can be used as an archival program. It does preserve the directory structure. ImgBurn cannot be used as an incremental backup program. ImgBurn is a one and done affair. Each time you create an ISO, it replaces the old one. And when you write a disc in ImgBurn, it cannot be appended to. If you use a rewritable disc, its contents are wiped before the next write to it.
  18. Unfortunately, I can't recommend a specific DVD drive to test with. I haven't used a DVD drive for like 10 years now. I switched exclusively to BD drives. If you want my recommendation for that, it would be the WH16NS60 from LG. However, you probably can't find those anymore and will have to go with the WH16NS40. The only problem with the NS40 was it supported BD-R DL and BD-RE DL but did not write to them correctly. And if you're going to get one of those, get a VanTec USB 3.0 optical drive enclosure, but make sure you get a USB 3.0 one as a BD drive needs that.
  19. Well, it's not beyond the realm of possibility that it COULD have happened. As I said and as you also believe, it is unlikely, though. Issues with DVD+R DL discs often happen at the layer break because that is the most vulnerable area. One way to test is to get a USB DVD drive and try that. You're better off getting a half height drive and putting it in a USB enclosure as slim drives are often problematic. If you do get a slim, try to get one from Pioneer or Verbatim, which would be a Pioneer. The external slim drives I've used have been Verbatim rebadged Pioneer drives. But, those were BD drives.
  20. Since they ALL are problematic, I wouldn't necessarily rule out the drive just yet. I would try one more test. Take one of these problematic DVD's and play them in something other than this PC DVD drive. Preferably a standalone DVD player. Then, go through each of the contents and do a forward scan test. Set the speed to the middle value so you get a decent enough test but you don't spend hours testing. If the forward scan test does not choke at the layer break or anywhere else on the disc, then it's probably the fact that that disc, anyway, it still readable.
  21. If all your DVD+R DL were the same as this one I 09:58:33 Source Media Type: DVD+R DL (Book Type: DVD-ROM) (Disc ID: RICOHJPN-D01-67) it could be the RICOH discs you're using. Verbatim DataLife MKM DVD+R DL are the only reliable brand out there. I once tried a 3 pack of Ritek aka Ricoh DVD+R DL. 2 of the 3 were completely unreadable aka blank after 1 year. So, it could be if you used all Ricoh DVD+R DL, they've gone bad at the layer break. However, since it happens on all the DVD+R DL you check, that seems unlikely and what is more likely is the drive is the problem. There are firmware updates for the drive you're using. A few firmware updates beyond 1.00 you're currently using. Try installing the latest firmware and see if that helps: https://www.firmwarehq.com/LG/BH10LS38/files.html
  22. Yeah, unfortunately it's not the XBox that is doing it. It's most likely the Blu-Ray playback standard set by Sony for use in all Blu-Ray player hardware's software. For instance, they say it allows BDMV's to play from DVD but not VIDEO_TS to play from BD.
  23. Copying the DVD-5 contents to BD-RE works. So, it's specifically copying them to DVD's that isn't playing. And, I haven't the foggiest notion where to start. Blu-Ray Video is not my area of expertise; DVD Video is. However, after testing the BD-RE, I've NO idea why you'd want to copy a BD Video to a DVD-9. The DVD-5 video quality was awful. You're better off trying to save money if you compress a BD-50 to BD-25. A high quality BD-R only costs $1 in bulk.
  24. The only quality concern as far as the disc itself would be avoid CMC media. But, if you use the higher quality to start off, you're better off. I, too, only have CD-R for Audio CD. I'd abandon DVD-R/DVD+R DL, too, if it weren't for the fact Sony crippled Blu-Ray players by not allowing DVD Video discs to play from BD-R.
  25. Because I got a playback error, the log wasn't really necessary anymore. One thing I did notice that you might want to take notice of, though, is the use of Ritek discs. The only reliable DVD+R DL is Verbatim DataLife Plus with MKM in the Disc ID.
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