dbminter

Yes, I would also first try some DataLife Plus/AZO discs from Verbatim. Do NOT get the Life Series you find in stores; they are worse than the RITEK ones! The DataLife Plus/AZO discs are only found in online stores like Amazon.com. Or try some genuine high quality Taiyo Yuden DVD-R.

Depends on what a 26GO is. .IMG is supported by ImgBurn. Did you mean 26 GB? If so, yes, ImgBurn supports double layer BD-R. You do need a double, triple, or quad layer BD disc and a BD burner that supports double, triple, or quad layer discs for burning.

Well, you're not using cheap discs, which was my initial diagnosis, so where do we go from here? Looks like you're trying to burn a PS2 game disc image. Did you make this image or download it? If you didn't make this image from a source disc, the image file could be corrupt. Other than that, it could be a conflict between your Optiarc drive and the MCC DVD-R. Just because MCC DVD-R is the best you can get doesn't mean your drive will necessarily like them. You could try and see if there's firmware update for your Optiarc drive that addresses this incompatibility issue. In Write mode, right click on the burner drive letter and choose the check for firmware update option at the bottom of the context menu that appears. If there's not a firmware update, try getting a cheap external USB drive and see if that burns any better. The last thing to try is try using something other than Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO MCC DVD-R. Try high quality Taiyo Yuden DVD-R (Not the cheaper stuff.). That my help.

It may take some implementation, but something I'd like to see added to ImgBurn is the ability to view the contents of an image loaded for Write in ImgBurn. I realize you can mount images as virtual drives to do this, but that's an extra step outside of ImgBurn. And, I know if it's an ISO, you can natively navigate those in Windows to view the contents. But, things like split images made by ImgBurn require generating .DVD files for certain applications. And I know certain applications like UltraISO can load images for viewing the contents, but that's, again, extra steps outside of ImgBurn that could be saved. Thanks!

Since just under 47 minutes is the longest side you have, in the worst case scenario, you could put Side 1 on one CD and Side 2 on another disc. I had a book that had been read to MP3's for blind people that I made a book on CD out of. Due to the length of some of the chapters being long, I could only fit 1 chapter onto some of the CD's. The chapters were under 50 minutes, but just long enough that I could only fit 1 chapter per disc on in some occasions. I ended up with 7 CD's in that case. I've been meaning to dig out those discs and convert them into one of my DVD Video books on CD DVD's. Compress my collection down a bit by 7 audio CD's to 1 DVD Video.

Yes, they used to make 90 minute CD-R's, but they weren't widely supported. And I don't think they're made anymore. When you say one of the tapes is 90 minutes long, do you mean one SIDE is 90 minutes long or both sides together make for a 90 minute tape? If it's the latter, you could just make 2 CD's for that one tape, Side 1 on one CD and Side 2 on another. I don't know of any tape format that allowed for 90 minutes on one side. As I said before, 1 hour sides on a 2 hour tape was the largest running time format I am aware of that they manufactured.

What I did with my audio tape collection was I bought a device that converts audio tape to MP3's on a flash drive. I then converted those MP3's to DVD Video. But, what you could do is convert your tapes to MP3 and do like you say. However, I have to wonder what type of tapes you are actually talking about. The longest running type of audio tape I have ever known to be manufactured was the 2 hour variety, an hour of recording time on each side. Since a CD runs over an hour of recording time, I don't see why you can't convert each side of a tape to its own CD.

The short answer is no. "Normal" CD player implies a standalone CD player. Those only play CD's because when they were made, there were no such things as DVD's. Now, some DVD players, particularly modern ones, play CD's as a bonus to get you to buy them over others that don't. If your DVD player supports reading container files like MP3 from discs, what you could do is burn a bunch of MP3's made from a CD to the DVD. The long answer: I have a way of copying CD's to DVD's that play as DVD Video, but it requires software that isn't free and a little bit of know how. Plus, this method is not ideal for music CD's. It's best for books on CD, etc. that have more than 1 disc, where you can put an entire book on 1 DVD-9. Or a CD boxed set of an audio play like the Doctor Who ones Big Finish releases.

Yeah, this forum isn't dead. It's not jumping and jiving, but it's not dead. Every few days, someone posts some request for help. Even the occasional spam.

You say this has never happened before, but have you always used these MKM discs? Those are the quality Verbatim discs, so you're not using junk discs. If you've had no problem with these discs before and you've burned a good deal of them, then you probably need to replace your drive. If this is your first time trying to burn these MKM discs, it may be your drive doesn't like them. Try updating the firmware if there is one.

I honestly don't use BD DL media anymore. I used to use BD-RE DL to write the monthly Windows data backups to external media. But, since flash drives (And now USB SSD's.) got lower in cost and higher capacities, plus are much faster, I switched to those.

You could try not using the cheap CMC MAG discs. However, if they worked before, changing to something other than cheap media probably wouldn't work. But, you would be able to narrow it down to the drive if you tried the better Verbatim (NOT Life Series.) BD-R and got the same results.

The problem is either your drive or Windows in conjunction with the drive. You say your PS3 recognizes data on these discs but Windows does not? Since the PS3 recognizes data on them, ImgBurn is writing data to them. It's just Windows is not recognizing it. When you get one of these BD that Windows shows is blank, go into Read mode and see if ImgBurn recognizes a disc is inserted. Then, try reading that BD to an image file. If ImgBurn can recognize data on the disc, it's a Windows problem, most likely. If ImgBurn can't recognize data on the disc, I'd be more likely to blame the drive as being problematic.

What do you mean by CDE? Do you mean CDR and it's a typo? So, you're saying the CD-RW boots, but the ISO you made from the CD-RW and you're burning to CD-R doesn't boot? What created the ISO? ImgBurn's Read of the CD-RW or Build mode creating a new ISO?

Of those 3 drives, the only one I would recommend is one you don't have on your list. I use the LG WH16NS60. NOT the 40. The problems with the Pioneer drive: Pioneer has gradually declined in quality until it's unacceptable in its current state. The first Pioneer I had lasted almost 2 years. The last one I had didn't last 2 months. Plus, they keep borking the firmware. They keep messing it up so now it can't properly write to Ritek 8x DVD+RW discs anymore. The problem with the WH16NS40 is precisely what you want to use it for. Data backups to BD media. While single layer BD media is fine in the NS40, double layer BD and BD-RE WILL fail 9 times out of 10! If you don't plan on using BD-R DL or BD-RE DL, it's fine, though. I don't recall too much about the WH14NS40. so it may have been fine. I just don't remember if I ever had that model and if I did, what peculiarities it might have had.

Yeah, if you can buy blanks one at a time, that's definitely cheaper. However, be aware the nature of the beast means one disc can work fine and then the next won't.

You're probably more likely than other to find the drive is the problem. I'd start with the drive first and then work on the discs. Although it is cheaper to try the discs first, probably. However, if the problem lies with the burner, you've got to replace it anyway, and you're out extra money for the discs. And the discs you try may not work right with the new burner. It's the nature of the beast, unfortunately.

I can't guarantee a new burner will solve the problem, though. If you get a new one AND it's different than the last one you had and you still get problems, then the next step would be to try swapping out the Verbatim DVD+R for something else. Maybe Taiyo Yuden DVD+R if they make them. Or try Verbatim DVD-R. I eventually had to switch to TY DVD-R because the LG WH16NS60 stopped liking anything from Verbatim that was DVD+R or DVD-R.

Well, if you've been using this same burner for 4 years, I would definitely look to try to replace it first. Since it's USB, if I remember correctly, it's easy to swap out for a new one. And, to be honest, it's where I'd start first. Given how relatively cheap USB DVD burners are, too. And you can't necessarily write off the discs. If you just started this package of discs, Verbatim could have changed the manufacturing process. They apparently did with DVD+R because my 2nd to last batch of Verbatim DVD+R worked fine in the LG WH16NS60, but the last batch I bought all failed miserably.

Well, you're not using crap discs, so that's not the problem. You say you've had no problems thus far and it just started up? Have you always used these same discs or did you just start recently using them? Even though they're quality discs, your drive may still not like them, like the LG WH16NS60 does. If you've used these discs fine before and now you're getting problems, how long have you been using this DVD burner? It may have just given up the ghost.

Just a guess; LUK will have to verify or deny it, but that Tools read speed option may only affect Read mode operations. Meaning when you're creating an image from a disc. I don't know, but it may not affect Verify rates. However, a Verify is, in essence, a Read operation.

Oh, I think I misunderstood what you were asking. Any operation, read or write, will effectively start at 0x and gradually increase to, say, the 4x you set. The speed of any operation will also fluctuate, depending on a variety of factors.

Like I said, a disc may be rated for X, but the write strategy in the firmware may allow for slower or faster speeds. A lot of 6x rated BD-R will burn at 12x in most drives. My LG will do that. It depends on the firmware write strategies. You said this drive had some kind of quiet setting? You could try disabling it. I always disabled the Quiet mode on my Pioneer drives to get faster read speeds. I don't care if my drive makes noise. I want the fastest speed I can get out of it. ImgBurn has some advanced settings for certain manufacturers like Pioneer where you can disable the quiet setting. Otherwise, the manufacturer of your drive may have a utility of its own to do that. Pioneer also makes its own utility for changing drive settings, but ImgBurn can do them, too, with its Advanced functions.

Drives behave based on their firmware for a particular medium and the read/write strategies set on the disc. So, even though a disc may say it supports a slower speed, it actually only supports the lowest possible speed defined in the firmware for that medium and the read/write strategies on the disc.

The bottom line is the drive itself controls what it does based on its firmware and the strategies set on the disc in the drive. The best you can do is set the speed and hope you get it.