dbminter

The most likely cause is the Ritek media you used. Ritek media has problems with its double layer discs with compatibility in a lot of drives. Try to find Verbatim BD-50 that is NOT CMC Magnetics. I don't think CMC makes BD-50 discs, but you never know. CMC is worse than Ritek, and Verbatim, which releases great discs, also releases CMC .

I thought DVD+R had the tiny bit more space? My recommendation was going to be on reading the first post to try something other than the RITEK media. Many drives don't like Ritek media. Ritek can be decent 2nd tier quality, but in many countries, Ritek is cheaper media. I would try Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series you find in stores; they're worse than Ritek! The DataLife Plus stuff can only be found online.) or Verbatim AZO discs. Those are generally the better media, but, again, not all drives, like the LG WH16NS60, like them.

I have seen cases in my own experience where on the CD/DVD laser, reads are fine but writes still failed. Reading data is a much simpler operation than writing it, so reading would have the potential to still work whereas writes may not. I've not observed that in BD personally, though. Now, I'm not familiar with those MBI media, but Ritek and CMCMAG (DEFINITELY CMCMAG.) are known to be cheap and problematic media. So, if the other kind of disc is also cheap, it could be just a case of cheap BD-R media across the board in all 3 cases. Normally when I get Verbatim BD-R, it's the quality VERBAT-IM discs from Amazon.com. However, for others in other countries, it's known to get CMCMAG for BD-R from Verbatim. To put it into perspective, CMC Magnetics causes over 50% of the problems seen on this forum. So, without you trying known good Verbatim VERBAT-IM BD-R media, I can't really tell you if it's a failure in your BD laser or just cheap media. One thing that bears pointing out is your drive is nearing 7 years old. Media manufacturing techniques change many times over the course of a period like that. There's no guarantee to be backwards compatibility with older hardware.

It's probably not a media issue as you say you tried 3 different discs from different manufacturers (Ritek, Verbatim, and a "local one.") but get the same results. Unless all 3 have the same Disc ID, which is unlikely, it's probably not a media issue. But, you could try putting in one of each of those 3 types of BD-R into a BD drive, opening ImgBurn in Write mode, and check the pane of information in the right side. Look for different Disc ID's. If they're all the same, then it could be a media issue. However, you'll generally find Verbatim using either CMC or VERBAT-IM in their BD-R Disc ID's. The one in your log is MBI-R06-000, which I'm not familiar with, so it may be the "local one." Definitely try updating the firmware first before going any further. What could be indicative of a problem with your BD drive is you say CD/DVD burn fine but all your BD-R attempts are not. This could actually be very informative. There are actually 2 lasers in a BD burner. One for CD and DVD and the other for BD. The BD laser may have gone bad but your CD/DVD laser is still functioning. How long have you been using this drive? If not very long, then it may have shipped defective from the factory.

Not entirely sure what the .LOG file is for. It's probably definitely not standardized Audio CD format. You'd end up with a Mixed Mode CD adding that .LOG file, so you can probably disregard it. If you're going to create an Audio CD with FLAC files, you'll need to install madFLAC first before using ImgBurn to create the Audio CD.

That log is an empty file.

You can probably save a disc by posting a log.

And a log will tell us if you're using quality discs or cheap discs. Cheaper discs have a higher likelihood of not being readable on some hardware.

ImgBurn is not the droids you are looking for. ImgBurn just burns what you feed it and can create images with what you feed it. Depending on how this karaoke DVD is authored, it could be a standard DVD Video or a DVD Audio. If it's a DVD Audio, then the audio is contained in the menus, so you can't effectively extract it. You can save the VOB's but there's no navigating VOB's files directly except from beginning to end or randomly jumping into points in the file. If it's a DVD Video, you could potentially use a piece of free but old software called DVDShrink to save each title to an extracted VOB with IFO. Freemake should then be able to load the .IFO's, but it's been many years since I last used Freemake Video Converter. I prefer to use ConvertXToDVD to convert various VOB/IFO extracts to DVD. I believe Handbrake would also load these VOB/IFO's and offer to save each individual Title to a container like MP4. IF each song is a Title unto itself, Handbrake can then batch convert the VIDEO_TS contents to individual containers. However, I believe the maximum number of Titles a DVD can have is 99, so if you have 260 songs on a single DVD, they probably are not individual titles but contained in the menus, which would indicate it's a DVD Audio disc.

What it probably really boils down to is what BD burner you're using and the DID of the BD-RE you're using. The bottom line is, generally, a lot of BD burners simply don't like BD DL media. Like LG's WH16NS40. One reason why I don't get the cheaper NS40 and buy the NS60. The NS60, at least, properly handles BD DL media. Do you have any sort of log info from an attempt to zero one of these BD-RE DL? Probably not if you have to force close down ImgBurn.

I'm not entirely sure what you're asking. You seem to imply that you thought ImgBurn converts video to DVD? ImgBurn doesn't do any video conversion. As for reinstalling the codecs, that probably won't help with a problem of bad video quality. It depends on what you're using for video conversion. I use ConvertXToDVD.

I'm not sure what you mean by a crossed out circle that appears. Can you post a screen capture so I can see what it is? If you want to create an Audio CD from FLAC, you'll need to install madFLAC before ImgBurn can process them. MP3 is natively supported, though.

Some drives don't like writing to DL BD media. The LG WH16NS40 is one such drive I've encountered. ASUS may be the same. I know the BW-16D1HT was absolute junk. Destroyed brand new rewritable Ritek 8x DVD+RW and Memorex/Ritek BD-RE.

You're welcome! Now, there are other freeware utilities that do DVD Video conversion, but I haven't used them in a long time. And they all had serious drawbacks to the paid for software. Like taking hours to do what CXD can do in like 20 minutes or really terrible video quality on playback. So, you could try doing a search for such things if you want to try out a piece of free software.

I think you're missing the point of what ImgBurn does. ImgBurn just burns what you feed it. It does no converting to DVD Video, which is what you appear to want. It sounds like you're trying to feed ImgBurn an MP4 and expect a DVD to play on a DVD player when you insert it? This is not what ImgBurn does. Now, if your DVD player supports playing MP4 container files natively from disc, you can do what you did and play the MP4 from the disc on your DVD player, but that's just playing a container file, not playing a DVD. If you want a disc that starts playing a DVD when you insert it, you want a DVD Video disc. You need to first convert the MP4 to VIDEO_TS format output. I use ConvertXToDVD to do this, but it requires a paid license. However, it does have, I believe, an uncrippled 7 day free trial with no watermarks or anything like that. You can then burn an ISO directly made by CXD, take its ISO and burn it with ImgBurn, or have CXD create a VIDEO_TS and you create your own ISO with ImgBurn from the VIDEO_TS.

Most likely updating ImgBurn to any new version number would not stop the false positives Norton is returning. Most likely, Norton is flagging it as a PUP, Potentially Unwanted Program, because of part of what is bundled with the software.

I tried a piece of freeware software that lets you edit CUE files; I forget what it was called. However, it failed to do the trick. So, I don't know if it really is possible to edit existing CUE files or not.

My guess is if G: is a Google Drive of some kind, a network hiccup might have prevented reading the file contents properly. Thus a premature EOF was reached, which was unexpected versus the file size the ImgBurn job was expecting and reported by the software. I'm not familiar with Google Drives, but I'm guessing they're some kind of network/online/cloud source. I would try copying the contents from the Google Drive to some temporary non network location, adding those files instead of the Google Drive source, and see if that helps. However, this may not be practical, depending on the size of the source you're attempting to read from the Google Drive.

I can tell you from personal buying experience those discs you linked are not CMC but MCC. I don't use them anymore because, as I said, CMC/Verbatim changed the manufacturing process for those discs so they no longer work with LG's WH16NS60 BD burner. But, for a brief period, they worked just fine for me. Basically, I'm pretty much the only person who puts the DID in reviews on Amazon.com. The manufacturer will never tell you they're CMC's on the product description page because then people wouldn't buy them knowing they are what they are: junk. CMC makes its money by selling to the unwitting. They can get 1 sale from a person, at least, before they wise up and avoid the CMC trash.

I would make sure those DataLife Plus are still not CMC. Depending on where you live in the world, DataLife/DataLife Plus may not necessarily be the good stuff. For instance, in some parts of the world, DataLife is CMC! Insert one of these discs into a burner, open ImgBurn, go into Write mode, and look in the right hand panel of information for Manufacturer/Disc ID and see what it says. Particularly make sure it doesn't say CMC anywhere in it. But, you'll also want to watch out for things like RITEK, which can be iffy media, too. Ideally, it will say MCC, but, be aware with some LG burners, CMC, which unfortunately owns Verbatim now , changed the manufacturing process for MCC media so they no longer work with certain LG models.

If these single layers that are failing are also Verbatim that were bought in a brick and mortar store, they probably are CMC, too. Check the log of one of these failed single layer burns and look for a line that says Destination Media Type or Disc ID in it. If there's some kind of string that says CMC (Not MCC, which is quality Verbatim single layer DVD.) they're probably the Life Series from a brick and mortar store and are the junk I mentioned. The nature of CMC is sometimes you get discs that work and sometimes you don't. Even within the same stack of discs, you can get some that complete burn and then get some that don't. The problem with CMC is even if they complete burn, they can still be complete junk. I had some CMC DVD+R once that completed burns, but my DVD player didn't recognize there was anything on them to play. Plus, with CMC junk, they won't last as long before they die as the good quality Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden discs. So, in the long run, you're better off switching to the quality stuff over CMC across the board.

Just as I thought. Check out this part of the log: I 04:05:03 Destination Media Type: DVD+R DL (Disc ID: CMC MAG-D03-64) You're using the junk Verbatim discs. CMC makes the worst media out there. If you bought these Verbatim in a brick and mortar store, you got the junk discs. You want the DataLife Plus (NOT the Life Series from stores.) or AZO labeled discs you only find in online stores like Amazon.com. This also explains why you got a failure on 2 different PC's. As you said, you ruled out the hardware, but you never thought the discs themselves might be the problem. CMC causes over half the problems we see on this board. The problems generally tend to disappear when people move away from the junk CMC media.

I believe it existed before 1996. I seem to recall having heard it years ago, but more years than 24. I think it's a pre-existing piece of music that probably no one really knows the origin of.

It may not have been a blank DVD you tried writing to, particularly when you said you inserted a different disc and it worked fine. There would have been an identifying message at the bottom of the main ImgBurn window saying something like "Cannot write inserted media. Not a blank disc."

Ritek can be iffy media. I've found in the United States, Ritek is a good 2nd tier quality manufacturer. In other parts of the world, though, people have round Ritek to be very problematic media. I still use Ritek media for my 8x DVD+RW needs. Ritek is the only one who still makes them. They're made for Imation, the only seller out there. Ritek stopped distributing their own 8x DVD+RW discs themselves years ago.