dbminter

Think I discovered a bug in the latest Virtual CloneDrive. CloneDrive used to mount .CUE files with associated .BIN files. I tried it just now and it says it can't, when it used to be able to. None of my .CUE files mount in CloneDrive anymore. The associated .BIN files still mount, but the .CUE files don't anymore. The error message is Can't mount "Image file name!" Maybe this is something associated with Windows 10 2004?

You could try changing the translation layer to ElbyCDIO and see if that helps. Tools --> Settings --> I/O --> Uncheck SPTI - Microsoft and check ElbyCDIO - Elaborate Bytes. Restart ImgBurn. If that doesn't help, try any of the other I/O options to see if one works. If you want to use SPTI for absolute certain, wait and see if someone else replies because I don't know about your issue.

About the spindles, it's hard to say. For instance, discs were never intended to be stored long term that way because they don't sell spindles except when you buy blanks. However, they're good enough to ship the blank discs in without too much damage to them. If I had to hazard a guess, I'd say there's no real downside to using them except when you need one from the bottom of the stack, you have to take out all the rest of them.

You can buy jewel cases separately. I store my discs in CD/DVD carrying "books." They store like 320 (I have some more, some less.) discs/CD booklets. I don't see where you're getting Verify against image from in Write files/folders to disc. I just went into that function and found the Verify checkbox but not one you describe. And, there shouldn't be such an option in that function as there's no image file being written to in Write files/folders to disc function. Oh, I see where you're at now. You're in the Verify function itself. I rarely use that manually as I have the automatic Verify turned on after each write. There is a Verify against image file. If you didn't create an image file, that option doesn't apply. You'll be asked to select an image file, which you won't have. You'll just be doing a Verify, which as I said, just makes sure the disc can be read. It performs a create image from disc function without actually creating the image file itself. I prefer the Build mode (Create image file from files/folders), where you create an image file first. That way, you can compare contents written to the disc against the contents in the image file. Write files/folders to disc will write the files/folders to disc without writing to an image file first. The Build mode will write the files/folders you tell it to to an image file first. It's not that TL has a likelihood of failing. It just has a higher likelihood of failing versus a SL one. For instance, you may not experience a problem writing a TL disc. But, for a variety of reasons, you might. And, for a variety of reasons, you might experience a problem writing to BD SL discs, too. Unfortunately, until you actually write a disc and experience an error, I can't tell you what you might be wrong until I see the error. However, you will have less likelihood of failure with SL discs; doesn't mean you won't though. Even though it increases the number of discs used, I use SL media. In fact, I've never written a BD-R DL disc before. Just BD-RE DL. And I've never written a TL or QL disc of any kind, even though I have burners that support them.

Unless you're writing on the fly, you're always writing to an image file first, even if you're just writing files. You're writing files to the ISO first, unless you're using the Write files/folders to disc option from the Picker. That is writing on the fly, which doesn't write to an image file first. And if you're using that option, Verify from image won't apply. What that option does is it verifies the contents written to the disc against the contents in the image file. While this takes longer, it's more likely to find write errors than not using it. Not using it just performs a read test, meaning to see if the data can be read from the disc. Doesn't mean the data was written correctly to the disc to begin with. I always enable Verify from image. I also rarely use the writing on the fly option. In fact, I've only used it a few times for testing purposes for someone else's issue. BD SL I use primarily even when it will fit on a DVD/CD. Unless it's an Audio CD or a DVD Video, which require CD/DVD media in order to properly playback, I make all my archives to BD SL HTL. HTL BD will last longer than the CD/DVD because those use organic dyes which deteriorate faster. BD uses metal oxides which last longer. And BD SL are only $1 for the good stuff. Even though I may waste some (Or a lot.) of available space, I prefer the longevity BD SL provides for my archives. I used to use BD-RE DL for making system images, but due to the high failure rate of those, I moved to flash drives. Plus, flash drives are faster. And since flash drives, I've moved to portable SSD's, which have higher capacities (Well, they do make high capacity flash drives, but they're all junk that I've tested out.) and are faster than flash drives. Never burned TL or QL, but as you go beyond one layer of DVD or BD media, you increase the likelihood of errors exponentially, particularly at the layer changes. So, you're less likely to get errors writing to BD SL than you would a TL because of the increase from 1 layer to 3.

You can always disable the verify process but you run the risk of getting bad discs, regardless of the speed you set. A burn can complete but it doesn't mean it completed correctly. I always enable verify because you never know when some gremlin might sneak in.

Ah, I was wondering where all this would go wrong; now I know! I sent LG a WH16NS60 for repairs/replacement... and they sent me a WH16NS40 back! I got the NS60 BECAUSE the NS40 is junk at writing DL BD-R and BD-RE! I guess LG no longer manufactures the NS60, as evidenced by its removal from their list of burner products they sell.

First, before replacing the drive, try using a different SATA cable. If that fails, try a different SATA port, to isolate a cable or port issue. At that point, the problem is most likely either the BD burner or the discs being used. Both are possible. One is easier to fix, if it solves the problem, than the other. If replacing the SATA cable/switching SATA ports doesn't solve the problem, try replacing the drive. If that still doesn't fix the problem, try a different BD burner besides the ASUS. If a different burner still doesn't solve the issue, it's most likely the discs. CMC probably changed the manufacturing process on them like they did with Verbatim DataLife Plus DVD+/-R making them worse. IF they did that, then, the only solution is to try other BD-R DL, but Verbatim generally was the only manufacturer who made reliable DL media. However, ever since CMC bought them, the horse is out of the barn in terms of quality anymore.

Disc ID/Manufacturer ID is just a string of letters. You can put any DID/MID on any disc, regardless of the manufacturer. A decade plus ago, fake DID's were a problem. Cheap manufacturers would make crap discs and put good DID's on them to trick people into buying their junk.

That MID is generally good, but I added the caveat that it doesn't work on all burners anymore since CMC changed the manufacturing process. The LG WH16NS60 does not write properly to them anymore. DVD+R is not necessarily better technology. If you're more concerned about playback compatibility with older DVD players, you'll want to use DVD-R. Any DVD player made within the last few years won't choke on DVD+R, but if you're giving movie discs to people with older players like Playstation 2's and the like, you'll want to go with DVD-R. DVD-R is older technology, so it's "backwards compatible." I use DVD-R because I never know what kind of player a DVD movie might be inserted into.

Not every program writes in the same way. ImgBurn does it "best" by doing it "properly." Also, just because a CMC disc completes burn doesn't mean it did it right. The disc may be unplayable/unreadable afterwards. Yes, it's possible for a burn to complete, even in ImgBurn, but the disc to be unreadable. It's even possible to complete a write but it not actually be usable at all. And, CMC discs don't last as long. Even if it plays, because it's cheap, it will die sooner than a higher quality disc.

Here is your most likely culprit: I 12:15:58 Destination Media Type: DVD-R (Disc ID: CMC MAG. AM3) Don't use cheap CMC MAG discs. CMC Magnetics makes the worst media (And ironically owns the best.) out there. You probably got Verbatim Life Series from a brick and mortar store, which is CMC. Try either DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series.) Verbatim or high quality Taiyo Yuden discs. These kinds of discs you'll only find online in stores like Amazon.com and the like. The vast majority of the problems we see here on the board are caused by CMC Magnetics discs. Unfortunately, guess who owns Verbatim now? Yep, CMC! And they HAVE changed the process of their DVD-R and DVD+R so even the good stuff that used to work no longer works on the LG WH16NS60. So, I switched to the high quality Taiyo Yuden stuff. However, I believe CMC also bought them out, too! However, the high quality TY media seems to still be high quality. It, at least, works on the NS60. So, I'd recommend the TY DVD-R first and then try the DataLife Plus series because they may not work properly on your drive either now.

Burn failures are rarely the fault of the ISO or the program burning them. It's the media itself and/or the drive burning them. However, it's a good data point you know that the ISO plays fine in a software player. That way, you know the video contents are not damaged.

Interesting. LG has completely wiped their website of any mention of support for the WH16NS60. It's not an officially available product on their burner site anymore. The WH16NS40 is still there, but not the NS60. I wonder why. And, the product page for the NS60 is still available if you type in the original URL of it.

I believe the LG drives don't have user configurable settings. Therefore, there's nothing to change. I've never seen such a configuration utility for my LG drives, and I've had the one you mentioned, in addition to the WH16NS40 and the WH16NS60, which I currently have.

None. I believe, but I don't know for sure, Advanced Settings are only available for certain drive manufacturers. LG isn't one of them. I believe if the drive has a configuration utility you can download from the manufacturer's site, ImgBurn can make those same changes. I know the Pioneer Drive Utility settings can be changed with the Pioneer Advanced Settings in ImgBurn.

There is one possible scenario I had overlooked with this mystery package. LG reserves the right to return items sent to them that weren't requested. So, maybe LG is returning my drive I sent to them for some reason.

Got another mystery package coming by UPS. I've got no outstanding orders, so the only thing it can logically be is the replacement from LG. The drive I sent them arrived on Thursday. They appear to have replaced it without charging me for it. I said I'd be willing to pay for the repairs, but they never took down my payment information. So, I doubt they'd send me the replacement if they were going to charge me for it without charging first. I guess they replaced it for free?

You might get a better answer to that question starting a separate thread in the support. LUK or someone else is more likely to see it and answer it if it's a new post.

Sorry, I couldn't tell you. I've never used the queue feature before.

It usually means the write didn't complete correctly. There can be cases where a write is fine but the reading capability of the drive is what is at fault. It's rare, but it can happen. However, as I said, it usually means a write failed to burn correctly. What I never understood is how a write can complete but not complete correctly. At this point, since you're using the good Verbatim BD-R stuff and since you've tried using a replacement of the same model of a USB drive, I would try using an entirely new BD burner, different make and manufacturer. I've never used anything from TSST Corporation before so I don't know how reliable they are. Since you've tried using the same model twice in a row, you can pin it on the drive itself. Since this is a new replacement, I am guessing you used the USB cable it came with, so we can rule out the cable being an issue. If you haven't tried yet, you could try it on a different USB port to rule out a bad port. And since they're failing at the layer break, it's a common place for bad burns to fail at. I've also never used DL BD-R media so I don't know if Verbatim's are reliable or not. I know some BD burners simply aren't up to snuff for DL BD burning. For instance, though it writes to BD DL media, the LG WH16NS40 doesn't do it correctly and never has. The WH16NS60 does, though. I had a BD burner once that failed out of the box to write to DVD+RW and BD-RE correctly. It actually DESTROYED those discs! So, I got a 2nd model of the same unit, in case mine was defective. It did the same thing, so I knew that ASUS model was the culprit. It was bad by design.

Well, it's been a long time since I've "logged in" as I have remember options and use my web browser's auto fill functions, but if my memory is correct, you sign in with your user name on this forum.

The safest place is here: http://imgburn.com/index.php?act=download and the safest Mirror is Mirror 7. There's no guarantee your AV won't complain about it. What AV is detecting is not "malware" but PUP, potentially unwanted program. The installer used to have OpenCandy in it, which would phone home to a server and offer the user other software they may want to download. However, some people get click happy and don't read what they're agreeing to. AV software is generally lazy and it's easier to label something as malware than to label it what it is.

Well, that didn't take long. My latest replacement NS60 needs replacing again! This time, it's the old problem NS60's have of writing scratches to BD-R's that are fatal to the burning process!

Should have been in Chat, yes. My suggestion is one you won't like because you said you didn't want to install other software. But, I wouldn't use VLC player. I found it to be a pretty lousy DVD player when it came to disc compatibility. I use Media Player Classic Home Cinema myself.