dbminter

It depends on what you're looking at that says this. I looked it up and that drive supports DVD DL media writing. And you wrote with it already, so it's writing the media. Your problem is probably either a VIDEO_TS folder that is not DVD Video compliant or the CMC MAG discs you're using.

First off, you need to make sure your VIDEO_TS contents are actual playable DVD Video. Is there a file called VIDEO_TS.IFO in the VIDEO_TS folder? Then, you need to make sure it plays. Probably the easiest way is to install DVDShrink and try to read the VIDEO_TS folder into it. If the contents load without error, you've got a VIDEO_TS folder that is a DVD Video. Alternatively, you can install Media Player Classic Home Cinema, which can play DVD's by loading VIDEO_TS.IFO files. Or if you have some DVD player software on your PC that loads VIDEO_TS or VIDEO_TS.IFO, do that. You need to first establish that your VIDEO_TS is actually a compliant DVD Video folder. After that, when you created the DVD in ImgBurn, when you added VIDEO_TS to the root directory of the Build job, did ImgBurn say it would change the appropriate settings for you? If it didn't, you either didn't import a VIDEO_TS folder into the root directory of the job or the VIDEO_TS folder is not compliant. CMC MAG media could be the cause of this. As I said, incompatibilities with CMC media are common. From things ranging from the disc simply not being recognized as being inserted to improper playback.

If one of your DVD players play it but not the XBox, then you have a compliant VIDEO_TS structure. So, the most likely cause is the XBox has a problem with that disc. Since one DVD player plays the disc, you know it's a working DVD, so it's down to the XBox being picky about the disc. And the culprit is probably the CMC MAG discs you're using. Have you used these before to get a DVD that plays in XBox? CMC MAG is the worst quality DVD blank you can get. Incompatibility with DVD players is not uncommon. I'd recommend trying a better quality blank. Verbatim DataLife Plus, NOT Life Series, which is CMC MAG, is the only really reliable DVD DL blank that is out there. You can only find DataLife Plus media in online stores.

There's no difference between a data DVD and a DVD Video disc, per se. Both are actually data discs. DVD Video is just a collection of data. It's just had certain DVD attributes set to match the book standard for DVD Video and has a compliant VIDEO_TS folder in the root directory. If it can't detect a DVD Video, make sure there's a compliant VIDEO_TS in the root directory. And post a log of a burn of one of these images you burned that doesn't play. Your creation of the image file log doesn't help much. It could be something as simple as a Disc ID of a type of DVD DL disc, e.g. cheap media, that the Xbox can't read. What it seems to be doing is finding the VIDEO_TS but not a compliant DVD Video structure. You need to make sure your VIDEO_TS is actually playable, too. And it could be the XBox needs a Booktype set to DVD-ROM before it can detect a recordable DVD DL disc as a DVD Video.

I remember that drunk driving commercial!

Development of ImgBurn still proceeds. It's just at a slower pace as the author does have a life. And, yeah, we're just users turned helpers. Well, some, like myself, started off as beta testers, but we still use the software. And we help where we can. LUK provides the vast majority of help, though, as he wrote the thing so he knows it better than we do.

Yeah, I mean there's always a slim chance, very slim, that the parts of the disc that contain what you Verified wrote fine but the finer details might not be correct. However, you're just being paranoid at that point, probably. A Verify that completes successfully and COMP's that compare contents successfully are like a 99% certification the disc burned okay.

It depends on what you're doing. It will only be a "DVD" if it fits on a DVD and you burn it to a DVD. Since you're talking about a Booktype, I'm guessing you're trying to make a movie DVD, a DVD Video. Are you saying you're burning a VIDEO_TS folder that your DVD player isn't recognizing? That your player only recognizes DL DVD recordable media as a DVD Video if you set the Booktype to DVD-ROM? And that your drive isn't allowing it, thus your DVD Video doesn't play in your player?

While there are fundamental differences in the process of how each media is written, there's no difference in reading. A bad read is a bad read, regardless of the media. I once had a DVD+R DL that passed both Write and Verify, but failed to play back correctly for one sector. In fact, that disc was the ONLY failure I ever had on a DVD+R DL that didn't immediately make itself manifest, e.g. with a failed Write or Verify. e.g. a problem that wasn't directly related to media or a dying drive. If you're just burning MKV files, there's no need to actually play the files to test them. You can open a Command Prompt and use a command called COMP to compare the contents of the MKV files from their source folder against the contents on the disc you burned. While it's more complicated, it takes less time than actually playing all the files.

Unfortunately, the sad fact of the matter is a Verify is not a perfect condition for determining if a disc burned okay. I just had a DVD+RW that burned and Verified okay, but would not play at all. I burned the same image again to the same disc and the Verify failed that time, meaning the disc had reached the end of its write life. It had reached the end of its write life on the previous burn but still completed Verify. Some drives like the LG BD NS40 would complete Verifies okay but fail to play properly. They'd reach a bad sector on a DVD+RW and immediately stop playing back. So, as much as it may be inconvenient, the only way you can really determine a good burn is to actually play all the contents.

As for the firmware update, you might want to check Pioneer's web site for a 1.51 firmware. That web site ImgBurn checks does not list 1.51 firmware for my Pioneer BDR-2209/209M. But, I did find newer firmware on Pioneer's website. Look here: https://pioneer.jp/device_e/product-e/ibs/device_e/dev00001r_e.html I think you'll want the firmware package for the BDR-209DBK listing for your drive.

How long did you wait for the synchronizing cache operation to complete? Depending on the drive, media, and image, it can take anywhere between 15 to 20 minutes to complete. If you haven't, try waiting for half an hour the next time this seems to happen. If it hasn't completed by then, then something is up.

I did not know of that keyboard shortcut. Actually, deleting the files isn't too much of a concern because I generally use the Permanently delete from the Delete drop down menu in the Ribbon in File Explorer.

I didn't think of Verify mode. That's actually probably a better solution. You're not writing an image file to the target device, reducing wear and tear on it. And you don't have to worry about deleting the image file afterwards, it taking up useless space in Recycle Bin, etc. Good suggestion!

I was wondering about something. Can Read mode be used as a sort of CHKDSK for BD Video discs? I was wondering how best to determine if my BD Video discs are not damaged when I receive them from Amazon.com. I don't propose making a copy of BD Video discs, just reading the disc to an image file to test that the disc contents can be read. I realize that if the BD Video is copy protected, the image won't be usable, but that's not my concern. As I said, I don't intend to make copies of them. I just wanted to read a BD Video disc to an image file to make sure the disc was readable. Would ImgBurn's Read mode work for this? Or would BD Video copy protection prevent a reading to an image file? As I said, I don't care about the contents because I'm not copying them. I just wanted to make sure the disc can be read without playing all the contents in my Blu-Ray player to check that it reads okay. Thanks!

Now, I don't know this for sure, but any application that would read a disc to an image I think would only read the burned area. It would scan from the start of the disc and read until it found the end of data indicator on the disc. I can't think of a reason why ImgBurn would read the unburned area.

I don't know what code the NS40's were. I don't have any of those units anymore. I threw them away as they died off. I believe I only ever used 1.01 or 1.02 firmware. There may have been a 1.03? I forget whether it was 1.02 or 1.03, but one of those firmwares only patched a copying hole for UHD BD. The NS40 burns BD-R and RE SL fine. It's the DL media it doesn't like. The NS40 also has no other problems with DVD or CD media. I recommended a BD drive because I've not had a DVD only burner in like 5 years. Plus, a BD drive will burn DVD.

I can't recommend the LG WH16NS40 because of the various writing problems it has. I've found it and someone else posted it, too. Writing BD DL media generally fails Verify 9 times out of 10. But only if you burn an ISO. If you use the on the fly writing option, it doesn't happen. The NS40 also doesn't properly write BD-RE DL discs as giant floppies. Files written to the first layer are fine. All files written to the 2nd layer are corrupt. These write errors happened on 3 different NS40's I had over the course of a few years. So, when the NS60 came out, I spent the extra to see if LG had fixed the N40's problems. And, they had. The only problem I've found with the NS60 is if ImgBurn has to recover buffers while writing to BD-R beyond 6x, the maximum write speed it resumes writing at after buffers recover is 4x. The NS40 had a similar issue but it was better at recovery: 6x. So, while the NS40 is cheaper, it comes more expensive in the long run.

While I cannot comment on any particular drive's effectiveness for setting the book type, I can offer some general advice on an external drive. I had an ASUS BD burner that was good, but it was ONLY good drive ASUS made I had. They no longer make that USB drive and the current USB model they have most likely uses the internal version of the 2nd ASUS I tried that was trash. It destroyed rewritable DVD and BD! However, you're most likely not going to find half height USB drives anymore. You'll mostly only find the trash slim models. Avoid those; they're junk at writing. So, what you'll most likely need is a half height drive and an external enclosure. I've tried 2 different enclosures and each had its own problems. VanTech likes to drop communication with the drive. Other World Computing's power supply needed replacement after 2 months and if you power off the connected drive, you must either restart Windows or unplug and plug the USB cable back in before Windows will recognize the drive again. As for half height drives, I only recommend BD burners anymore as I haven't had a DVD only burner in over 5 years. You'll want either an LG or a Pioneer. If you're going for the LG, get the NS60 UltraHD BD one and not the 40 one. The 40 has all kinds of writing problems but the 60 passed all writing tests I threw at it. Pioneer 2209 is what I recommend from them, but they're constantly borking the firmware on those when it comes to writing 8x Ritek DVD+RW.

If you're burning PS2 games, then there's no need to worry about what burner drive you're using. The only thing to keep in mind is if the PS2 game is a CD or DVD. If it's a CD, then there are some iffy things with dealing with some of those are image files. Just make sure you have some kind of system mod, internal or external, so your PS2 can play copies. Nice to see someone else with a still working PS2. I still have my original release 2000 model in working condition! And it's really telling of Sony quality that I've had a few models from 2002 onwards and they all died off. Yet, my original fat model PS2 from 2000 still works...

BTW, did you have a drive capable of burning what I'm guessing are XBox games? Because you need certain drives to do that. Not all older drives work for that purpose. Not all newer ones do, either. And, I don't mean to be condescending, but you do have some means of playing copies, right? Meaning you can't just copy game discs, pop them in, and expect to play them.

Yeah, the previous disc is useless. It can't be recovered or reused.

Have you tried powering off your PC and restarting Windows? If the drive is external, power it off, restart Windows, and power the drive back on. See if it resumes showing up in Windows/File Explorer. Doesn't mean it still isn't working, but, at least, it would show up again.

If the writing has stopped, then ending the write, however you end it, will leave you with a useless disc. It might be closable but the contents wouldn't be what you wanted.

Are you saying in the same cake stack, you're getting discs with different DID's? If so, that shouldn't be and it sounds like someone less than scrupulous mixing and matching media. If they're from different sellers/suppliers, it might make more sense. e.g. if they have different labels on top, if they're branded, or if they have different labels on the packaging. One particular manufacturer might be using higher quality Ritek versus CMC. Although, they're all farmed out from Verbatim, so why they'd have some as Ritek and some as CMC is a bit of a mystery.