Cynthia

The drive doesn't support the discs you're using. Try with some better (quality) discs.

Which version of Bitdefender do you have? Just the Virus module or? Should be some setting in such a program that allows certain programs to be allowed to run.

Might be worth trying to change this setting Settings -> tab I/O -> Ignore Reported File System on Remote Drives

Might be worth a try, even if the result my not be as accurate as it would have been with a scan using a Benq or Lite-On. There is a also the program Opti Drive Control that can perform quality scans. http://www.optidrivecontrol.com/

IMHO the only true way to know what the optimal speed is to get the best burn, is to burn the available speeds - in your case you can see them in the first image under supported write speeds - in separate burns (one burn for each supported speed) and then scan them using a tool such as the Nero you used and the tab you can't see now - the tab 'Disk Quality'. But you need a Lite-On or BenQ burner for that task. ImgBurn doesn't recommend anything with the AWS option, if you don't configure it, it will always go for MAX speed. The AWS is just a table you manually set up and the speed selected in the table is up to you do find out.

Also if you set up to use the AWS function in ImgBurn (see post #8), then you need to select 'Recommended' speed in the DVDFab settings for it to work.

The green and blue stars are in places on the DVD where you never notice any layer break as it's between different titlesets. It's like when you are in the main menu and selects the menu items in that one. Like if you want to play some bonus stuff, in that case the player must "load" that part and you will never notice any "extra" time for the laser head to switch position. Also in the posted images, none of the selectable potential layer breaks are in the main menu of the DVD on this DVD. On another DVD you might end up with all the selectable options to be in the main movie part. In such a case the seamless option is of interest. So for this DVD you posted about, the seamless is pretty much of no interest, unless you had to select the yellow star row. As you can see that row is in the middle of two cells as the layer break would be between cell 1 and 2 in the video stream. Adding to the above about cells, another criteria is to try to find 50/50 splits in the column for %. Look at some other DVDs and you'll see some more examples on how it can look. The posted DVD is a bit to good and is not really showing how they can look. More or less, you have too good options to select between. In many cases you can also end up with DVDs that only have grey stars.

Multi format usually means that it burns all types of discs. It's your stand alone player that needs to support the option of seamless. The burner doesn't care. Step 6 in this guide explains the colors and what they stand for more in details. It's for another program, but the concept is the same. http://www.digital-digest.com/~blutach/dl_burn_guide2/dl_burning_with_pgcedit_v2.htm The player might freeze/skip a chapter if it doesn't support seamless. Only way to know is to burn a disc and play it over the layer break. If you use the preview and there is video to show, you should know what spot you selected as the layer break when you watch the burned disc on your stand alone player. Might be that DVDFab only passes the write speed over to ImgBurn if you actually set it to a value as 4x and not when you set it to lowest or fastest. You can solve this by setting up and using the AWS feature in ImgBurn. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=4249 A Grey star is when you have the layer break options in the middle of the movie (video). Assuming that the potential layer break that is suggested is between two cells (a chapter can be made up of several cells) is in a movie with a car chase. Having the player to slightly pause the playing when it's changing layer of the disc (there are two layers on a DL disc) can be not so nice when you watch it. The seamless should in theory prevent that pause to occur. Also don't forget that you can use the preview to select a layer break that has a natural break, like between two different scenes in the movie.

When you are in that "position", you need to pick/select one of the rows in the 'Create Layer Break Position Window'. I would select the second green star (the one with the padding 103652). Also, if your player supports it, enable the option 'Seamless'. That way you will never notice the possible hick up when the player switches layer on the disc. How do you know it works with your player? Burn one disc and play it, if it goes banana, you know it doesn't work with that player. Most recent players should work. For that disc you posted about, the option will not really make any difference as you have to have cells in a video part for you to notice it. If you have a disc that only offers Yellow and Grey stars, that would be a nice disc to try the option with..

After that you have ran the detection, you should press the green button stating 'Download drivers compatible with this configuration' and it will show you if there are any updates available.

Only issue is the hard disk that can't feed the burner fast enough. Are you running some other stuff while burning?

Checked that you have the latest chipset driver for the USB? http://www.ma-config.com/

Might be that your firewall stops the opening. Tried with it shut down?

The burning/read speeds are very low and that could indicate that it has big problems with the disc = a crappy burn, even if it's verifying. You got the same low verify speeds with all the burns?

Where are those Verbatims made in? (should be stated on the package)

http://club.myce.com/f44/lite-ihas524-results-discussion-304369/

So you're strictly using the Lite-On just for scanning, am I right ??? Then I assume its lifetime would be around 900 discs also from your experience ??? So drives do die from scanning tasks ??? Do drives use the read laser when scanning ??? Don't like Lite-On for burning as to this thread. I guess drives can die for various reasons. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=7860 How about TRT ??? Do you do it ??? In which drive you'd do a TRT, the burner or the scanner ??? Never do it. Thank you very much for your recommendation, Cynthia !!! However, how to tell a genuine Lite-On from a NEC-based one ??? I googled and found Lite-On DH-20A4P & DH-20A4H, are these good scanners like their older brother the DH-20A3H ??? They are usually sold under the same model, like this one iHAS324-08 = Mediatek iHAS324-98 = NEC So you need to look carefully on the package or the label on the drive You also want a drive that can do jitter. Never had a DH-20A4 drive so no idea if they are better or not. My mobo is still P4 and IDE so I prefer IDE over SATA for my scanner. BUT if you say that the iHAS series (SATA) is better/more accurate in some way from your experience, I'd go for the iHAS. Haven't noticed that either should be better. Also had one IDE attached as USB and that made no difference.

Use Google instead of the forum search. This will give you results: CMC forum.imgburn.com There is also a later firmware for that drive. http://www.firmwarehq.com/Asus/DRW-1608P2S/files.html Max speed might not be so good. Try some lower speeds. (Speeds: 4x, 10x, 16x, 24x, 32x, 40x) No attachments are allowed in the chat forum.

My replies are in red text. Could you please refer me a link to that discussion if you don't mind ??? Or at least supply me with some keywords ??? I tried to ask grandpa google about this but had no luck. But it's OK if you couldn't since it's ages ago. Most overheating issues when you search has to do with encoding issues and they are not relevant. I also expect some forums to delete old threads. Here is one I found. http://club.myce.com/f87/107-overheating-109355/ Yeah, I thought about this also. But I wouldn't know for sure until I tried it and got smacked with the hammer-of-reality on my forehead. True. Only a test will tell you for sure. I still use v6.131. Does this make any difference ??? Well, this is kind of disturbing for me also, that my drive having a symptom that seems unexplainable even to the pros . I wonder if this (umbrella-shape PIE speed) is the sign that the DRU is aging or doesn't quite fit with quality scanning tasks. Do you have a say on this ??? Could be that it's to old and not really up to the standards of current drives. Can't find anything in the recent changelog that referees to such an issue. Had a Sony some time for scanning purpose, but only scanned single layer discs with it. So this eSAU108 / eSAU208 is like the best Lite-On scanner out there ??? I tried to look for DH-20A3H here but cannot find any. They all sell newer Lite-On 24x drives. How about the iHAS series ??? Which one you'd recommend ??? Not sure they are the best ones and they are a bit more expensive that the regular ones. They will work as the author of DVDInfoPro is recommending them. I don't like to use Lite-Ons for burning tasks and the USB connected ones are smaller and don't take up any place inside the computer. That's why I want one of those. Currently I use a iHAS120 as scanner. LUK is using a iHAS324. Just avoid the Nec based ones. Had two DH-20A3H before as scanners, but they died for me. One in a firmware flash and the other one rejected to load/read some burned discs. It's a bit old model and have been replaced by other models, so it is tricky to find one. Yeah, it should be. I'm just dumbfounded by the fact that I'm using one of the best burner-media-firmware combo on the planet and getting results like it shouldn't be. I'm thinking of putting this problem to rest and starting to have a peace of mind a little, by purchasing a new drive for scanning. BUT I hesitated to do so since from our conversation, you seem to imply that even you would trust the DRU for scanning since newer drives are better with reading therefore gives less accurate/precise picture on how good a burn is than older scanner drives. Am I putting this right ??? Please CMIIW. It is a Sony model, so IMHO it's better to use a genuine Lite-On. This leads me to another question : Would a drive begin to fail to give trustable quality scans like it would aged and fail to burn/read a disc succesfully ??? Please do enlighten me. The Lite-On that died for me, did accurate scans of those DVDs it could load/read when I compared them to a new scan with the iHAS120. Oh yeah one more, I always forget to ask you this : What number of burned discs can we expect from a drive to still retain its burning reliability ??? Just give me an estimation/rough value, like maybe 1000 discs ??? Or maybe a number somebody experienced in real life ??? Most of my DVD burners have been sent to retirement due to replacement of later models. So I've only had two that I've used for regular burning that died for me. A NEC that burned around 900 discs and a Pioneer DVR-110D that lasted around the same amount. But they were also used for ripping discs and that might also have had an impact on the life time. http://forum.digital-digest.com/showthread.php?t=49733

I would also try 4x. If you still get errors, try with a cleaning disc and if that also fails, replace the drive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uExIkV-4kXU

Can you post a log of that burn? The slow speed might be that the BD-RE verify (and not FastWrite) is enabled in the Settings in the write tab. Also sounds as the 2x write speed is not supported in the firmware for that media code.

More or less a simple write error. Only chance is to wait for a new firmware release, if that should be tweaked better for that media.

In the Build mode. Tab Advanced -> Restrictions

Singapore use to be good quality.